Hi, I'm currently looking to get my FN2 tuned but I don't have headers. I have an Injen intake and a Invidia catback.
My question is, should I tune the car as it is? Or buy headers then tune?
Cheers
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Hi, I'm currently looking to get my FN2 tuned but I don't have headers. I have an Injen intake and a Invidia catback.
My question is, should I tune the car as it is? Or buy headers then tune?
Cheers
Headers then tune.
def get a header first
then tune
Get a tune then headers
a tune is not critical until you have done serious things like cams.
yeah not critical, but you're wasting your time doing boltons if you're not going to tuneQuote:
Originally Posted by curtis265
Fn2 stock map is absolute shitQuote:
Originally Posted by curtis265
Even tune with stock fn2 showed massive improvement in drivability
Unless you got panel filter, then you'll get 700nm like amantQuote:
Originally Posted by u mad?
Lol...
I'll buy the headers first, I found some online from a seller UBS Autos in the UK. Not a well known brand but same specs as Tegiwa, and it's much cheaper. Is it safe to go with them or buy Tegiwa?
Do you have a link to the headers by any chance?
whats your budget for header op?
I've got a decent budget but paying $1200 for headers seems a bit too much to me. I'm trying to find headers which I have for $480 posted and save a little bit more for a flash pro.
Just found the ubs headers on ebay, I don't think they post to Australia :(Quote:
Originally Posted by fn2au
Quote:
Originally Posted by RenzokukenJ
Damn, I was hoping they would.
It wouldn't hurt to message them anyway, it just says that they don't post to Asia or south east Asia, but doesn't have Australia under any title saying it can or cannot ship. I was just assuming they put us under Asia.
Keep me updated though, it would be interesting to see if the header is any good or not. By the look of the design you might be able to get rid of the shitty OEM cat, and replace it with a high flow cat
Try shopmate or equivalentQuote:
Originally Posted by RenzokukenJ
I think if money no object, then header -> tune
but I cant see how header can worth so much with max of 5 hp increase at most.
Don't cheap out on header, plays a big roll in making power with k series.
It's making torque rather than hp munQuote:
Originally Posted by connorling
Does why
Before Toda headers
http://i.imgur.com/e7sMZp9.jpg
After Toda headers
http://i.imgur.com/ZO9ztK3.jpg
People always overlooking the midrange, as if it doesn't even exist
30hp gain at 5000 rpm with toda header, nice
Yeh lmao
Every kunt saying "why bother with bolt on for k series, for 5hp increase"
Yh 5hp increase at peak doe, midrange gets the joocy bits
I never trust these dyno "proven" test.
u can easily change the setting in the dyno to make it make more power.
telling the dyno on the second run to have higher temperature and lower octane are few ways to show more power.
I m not familiar with the k series as much as b series, but if k20 makes so much power for 2L, I am assuming the oem header would have been pretty free flowing anyway.
only see big improvement on after market header is when the oem header is reducing power.
These guys are number one in the UK regarding tuning and supplying parts, it's like comparing cbauto and byp man.Quote:
Originally Posted by connorling
I would 100% trust the dyno.
This is the difference in headers:
https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/i...pPa5Un8g2kwX0w
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azPKIjxmmdUQuote:
Originally Posted by RenzokukenJ
watch this.
Will watch later lolQuote:
Originally Posted by connorling
There's definitely a big improvement on header swap doe
OP Moral of story. Tune now you waste good money.
That 2k can go towards a nice header + sussy or brake mods.
Sure there are gains in all cars factory ecu remap.
Im sure thicker sway bars, better brakes even better tires are the better options in a small budget build.
2K = 4pots, I rather the bigger brakes than a just a I/H/E tune on a Honda.
My 2cents, sure there will be others who beg to differ on here, but I think his profiting from it.
Save tune for when headwork is done or K24 bottom is dropped in. Max returns for monies spent.
Or even dialing in the understeer to your liking/confidence is worth more than what the flashpro is going to give you.
You won't be able to make any changes to the rear with an alignment without at least springs and shims. Worth going flashpro instead if you can find one cheap enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by amant02
Trust the dyno, not the operator or the sales/marketing managerQuote:
Originally Posted by RenzokukenJ
Yeah sounds like a good plan amant, spend 2k on bbk on a street car....
like curty says but, never trust sales people, never.. lol
90% of the UK population give 10/10 reputation to these guys, so I would definitely trust anything they put out.Quote:
Originally Posted by curtis265
Nekminut pics of wads of cashQuote:
Originally Posted by u mad?
IMO if you aren't working the engine with cams and supporting mods PLUS the tune - there is no point in anything less.
Just put on any CAI and a muffler and feel the noise and bonus of not being any slower than a car with I/H/E basic mods.
You would definitely benefit from cams bennyabo, but abos over in UK can easily see 150kw with stock internals and stock cams and a tune with I/H/E. Over 180kw with cams.Quote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
wtb rsp head and manifold
lucky fn2 abos got some wicked parts from factory
x2Quote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
at least I/H/E and tune, other wise don't bother
your 150db fart canon aint ganna give you any more power by itself
Mfw my exhaust probably around 130db and only mod I gotQuote:
Originally Posted by u mad?
Have you consideredQuote:
Originally Posted by RenzokukenJ
a) The vehicle ID data at the top is different, they could be different cars.
b) The variance in temperature between runs, ambient and (is that inlet temp)? According to some information on wikipedia, there is approximately 5% difference in air density between 20deg and 5deg. Does that mean 5% difference in power?
c) Dyno correction factor - how was this calculated and is it accurate?
d) Oil and water temps were not given - you can't verify what fuel and timing trims applied during the runs. Controlling those factors would greatly influence 'power output'
e) Was ONLY the header changed or was the intake, exhaust, decat and ECU tune a variable as well?
I know that people appear to have had mad gainz, but at the end of the day I would consider that there are too many unknowns, and that 1/4mi times are equally comparable to someone's dyno charts
A) - they were done on different days, but same carsQuote:
Originally Posted by curtis265
B) - dunno
C) - dunno
D) - good point, I doubt they would post up their actual map especially if they paid for it lol
E) - yeah, the post was made by the admin who wanted to show what the difference was made by only replacing the header. I remember yobas sending me links to his thread on jdmst or some shit with his dyno with and without headers, I'll have to find it
I'll find the link somewhere, but yeah, I'm not suggesting that everyone will get mad gainz, though what I'm suggesting is that you will definitely get gains somewhat flashing the ECU regardless to whatever mods you have. Even stock, you will see an improvement.
Was Facebook shiet
http://i.imgur.com/wwDXZ9l.jpg
With yobas using the tegiwa intake tract, dunno if that would make any difference or not (basically a pipe that leads from the air box to the wheel arch without a resonator), but you can see the gains made with the wizood himself working his magic
Wat wen I say just IHE no tune is good enfu without a tune is bad idea.
If op wants to mod his car has the cash, The brake setup is better even on a street car.
Basically the way the laws work, only legal fun you can have on the streets is with braking, no?
Fkn hypocrites.
Fuk yeah, I love just hitting the brakes on the street to feel the g force man, feels better than acceleratorQuote:
Originally Posted by amant02
lol wants acceleration but owns a honda.
Hondas are fast in corners not in a straight line.
If the budget is small, I know which area of the car I'd be improving on.
Im strictly speaking of improvement on production hondas, not joe blows vtec race car.
You will NEVER need a bbk on the street unless you're driving at ten tenths.. if you can honestly put your hand up and say you've managed to fade your pads hooning around on the roads then perhaps you should give your license back.Quote:
Originally Posted by amant02
There is no way you can fade even street pads while sticking to speed limits, unless youre one of those speds who brakes all the way down a long hill
Go troll elsewhere.
Oh ok, gr8 b8 m8Quote:
Originally Posted by amant02
Yh, k24Quote:
Originally Posted by amant02
R u okQuote:
Originally Posted by amant02
Yea mate you get bigger brakes to counter effect brake fade. Nothing to do with stopping earlier swear bro, its all about brake fade. Big brake kits are all about controlling brake fade, nothing to do with pad/rotor choice its the 2pot coming up to 4pot that helps with brake fade.
Shows your knowledge.
Ty renzo for agreeing with me, no tune require unless your doing cams or k24.
Wasting your dolans.
Oh dont tell me you guys never experienced upgrading your brakes to bigger kits.....
ahhh this explains why you think that 30HP mid range gonna be good gains.
Op take their advise and tune, you will gain a slightly better mid range and a whole 10kW max at top range.
thats like $200 per kW gained. (i have been nice on the gains too) Money well spent bro.
fark keeping with that equation 100kW again gonna be $20,000. Money well spent bro.
and biggest lol bigger brake kit only worth 10ths of a seconds bahaha keep going curtis.
Please mate, thats even more funnier than you telling the other bloke that no wheel alignment was needed after he installed lowering springs lmao.
op also note, the guy probs trying to flog u the reflash is mates with renzo curtis.
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Originally Posted by amant02
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Originally Posted by amant02
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Originally Posted by amant02
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Originally Posted by amant02
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Originally Posted by amant02
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Originally Posted by amant02
Dem baitsQuote:
Originally Posted by amant02
Nice amant
amant, once again don't understand what i am saying.
I can't tell if you can't read or a weak troll
either way, you appear to have gotten everything backward.
That is exactly what i said. Did i say anything about stopping earlier? perhaps you should read more and speak less. attempting to sound smart doesn't suit you.Quote:
Originally Posted by amant02
re read my post maybe :)
ten tenths is an expression to say that you are driving at a vehicle's absolute limits. not tenths of a second. You have misunderstood as usualQuote:
Originally Posted by amant02
also please quote me where I suggested skipping a wheel alignemnt after installing lowering springs.
Please show where i have suggested reflashing with headers onlyQuote:
Originally Posted by amant02
Keep going amant, you're keeping me amused.
Lmao. Amant lost the plot
Did ur dealer run out?
he should pm cbauto
best dealer atm
Pm cbauto
Amant, a good set of pads is all you really need on a street car, maybe a nice set of rotors as well. With my ds2500's even when I was a bit younger and drove down mountains like a complete FUKWIT, giving the brakes a massive flogging (abs, smoking brakes ect) i never experienced brake fade with the stock calipers, even racing up to 220km/h + in between round abouts having to stomp on the brakes before the next round about, still no fade at all.
To me thats some reckless as fuk driving which looking back I do regret doing, but if someone manages to fade a decent street pad like ds2500 ect on the street then you don't deserve to have a license. Yes this is on a dc2r but the newer dc5r/fn2r has bigger rotors and calipers for the extra weight.
What do you normally smoke Amant?
Maybe I can get you some.
this is terrible advice, op please do not listen to amant lolQuote:
Originally Posted by amant02
fukin amant you crack me up
You took the bait m8Quote:
Originally Posted by u mad?
Gg
fuk i should have knownQuote:
Originally Posted by RenzokukenJ
nice one amant
All im saying, small budget why waste on flash pro...
Headers, coils, tires and good set of brakes is the better choice.
I think u guys need to read my comments.
I still stand by I rather my Honda had 4pots over I/H/E + Tune.
He will gain much more once he does cams or k24 save tune cost for then.
Tuning isn't cheap and often overlooked when budgeting.
ECU's for honda aren't competitively priced either.
The baits are non stop, amant you are bored ay?
I have a few ounces I can give on tickQuote:
Originally Posted by amant02
haha fukQuote:
Originally Posted by cbauto
Lmao the fact you know what tick means, U shouldn't be looking down on a pot smoker.
. Again Production Honda's are fast in corners and foreseeable on straights.
No point chasing acceleration when you arent working the head or doing a K24 or Turbo (proper way to do a honda)
Money should better spent else where.
Haha fuk this guys classic^^
Big brake kitQuote:
Originally Posted by amant02
Why do you assume I'm looking down on a pot smoker?Quote:
Originally Posted by amant02
I'm just trying to help someone who's nearly lost the plot
BBK on tick? Packing bong n BBK..
Also, how do you know he needs pot?Quote:
Originally Posted by amant02
Might be crack or Meth.
Lmfaooo
Someone needs to do a meme
"Recommending BBK on a street car isn't normal. But on Meth it is"
Did anyone else see the op asking if he should upgrade his brakes or suspension?
A lot can be had by doing I/H/E and intake manifold and sometimes 70mm tb with a tune on k sereis be it a 2lt or 2.4. If you're not going to tune it then don't bother.
Not to mention fuel consumption after doing breather mods without getting a tune, you're throwing unburnt fuel straight out the exhaust do to the nature of the oem ecu and the way its calibrated to run at a set af ratio with the oem parts.
I agree its beneficial to go k24 and or head work (even on a 2lt), but saying its a waste of money/time to tune the stock 2lt with boltons is silly and uneducated.
99.99% of hondas on the street rune IHE no tune. Shit my dc5r b4 hit nearly ran 220,000KMs.
PS: now ur changing stories with TB's basically saying IHE not enfu to justify tune. TB+ Mani anit cheap either.
Not as silly as just bolting a used k24 on a k24 conversion. km8