Hardrace trailing arm bushing alignment DC2R or others

I tried looking around for more information, but no dice.
Regarding alignment settings for stiffer/hardened rear trailing arm bushings on my dc2r.

My current stock alignment is with total rear toe in of 2mm. From what I have gathered this stock alignment is for OEM bushings which are softer.

Comparing the OEM and Hardrace bushings, there is a far smaller gap for movement in the hardrace. And seeing as the nature of the trailing arm returning closer to 0mm when travelling at higher speeds, does that mean that the hardrace bushing wouldn't return as close?

Should I be running less toe in as I have hardrace bushings, which are harder/stiffer in comparison to OEM bushings?

EDIT: Also, a question to all dc2r owners running with HR Rear Trailing arm bushings. What are your wheel alignment settings?

My apologies if I don't make any sense, I just don't want to destroy my new tyres.

I think I understand what you're asking.
your logic is sound. (pardon the Spok reference) I think is safe to assume the movement would be less with stiffer bushes.
My understanding is toe in factory setting is catering for a novice driver who appreciates more stable straight line handling characteristics.
personally have two vehicles with HR RTA bushes and both cars run zero toe rear and it drives quite nice on the street.
typical toe out for track with more steering response. Toe in for straight line handling.
I'm running

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kraftycuts

I tried looking around for more information, but no dice.
Regarding alignment settings for stiffer/hardened rear trailing arm bushings on my dc2r.

My current stock alignment is with total rear toe in of 2mm. From what I have gathered this stock alignment is for OEM bushings which are softer.

Comparing the OEM and Hardrace bushings, there is a far smaller gap for movement in the hardrace. And seeing as the nature of the trailing arm returning closer to 0mm when travelling at higher speeds, does that mean that the hardrace bushing wouldn't return as close?

Should I be running less toe in as I have hardrace bushings, which are harder/stiffer in comparison to OEM bushings?

EDIT: Also, a question to all dc2r owners running with HR Rear Trailing arm bushings. What are your wheel alignment settings?

My apologies if I don't make any sense, I just don't want to destroy my new tyres.

---

Stiff rta wont handle better and why put taiwan made in place of oem japanese

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by YeahByuddy

Stiff rta wont handle better and why put taiwan made in place of oem japanese

---

because the OEM japanese is 20 years old?

Didnt mean like that met

Thanks for clarifying that.
I think I might run with rear toe in somewhere around 0-0.5, as it is mostly my daily with the occasional high speed highway drives.
How are you finding the tyre wear from running 0 toe on your street vehicle? (considering you are running some degree of negative camber)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by cbauto

I think I understand what you're asking.
your logic is sound. (pardon the Spok reference) I think is safe to assume the movement would be less with stiffer bushes.
My understanding is toe in factory setting is catering for a novice driver who appreciates more stable straight line handling characteristics.
personally have two vehicles with HR RTA bushes and both cars run zero toe rear and it drives quite nice on the street.
typical toe out for track with more steering response. Toe in for straight line handling.
I'm running

---

Fair point. But as cbauto said, it is 20 years old and was worn out.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by YeahByuddy

Stiff rta wont handle better and why put taiwan made in place of oem japanese

---

He probably meant if replacing them stick with oem,obviously the originals are too old :)

Personally feel the toe should be the same as standard.
Its the compensator arms and ultimately the toe bolt n washer which see the most force laid upon them.
Even rock hard RTA's flex and pivot as both ends are under extreme movement....a larger rear swaybar and or stiffer suspension with reduce your body roll and pivoting movement into the RTA's compared to dead standard

PS don't forget to index the bushes relative to your ride height - IF it isn't standard !

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bennjamin

PS don't forget to index the bushes relative to your ride height - IF it isn't standard !

---

yh, this

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kraftycuts

Thanks for clarifying that.

How are you finding the tyre wear from running 0 toe on your street vehicle? (considering you are running some degree of negative camber)

---

ur welcum m8

even though they are street cars. they don't see enough km's to accurately judge tire wear.

Thanks, What if I'm also running a bit of negative camber. How much? I'm not entirely sure.

As for indexing the RTA bushes relative to ride height, I actually had them aligned to stock height.
I then got coilovers later on. Should I be adjusting them somehow to the new height?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bennjamin

Personally feel the toe should be the same as standard.
Its the compensator arms and ultimately the toe bolt n washer which see the most force laid upon them.
Even rock hard RTA's flex and pivot as both ends are under extreme movement....a larger rear swaybar and or stiffer suspension with reduce your body roll and pivoting movement into the RTA's compared to dead standard

---

yes you should. If you intend to have a lowered stance with the life of the car it's advisable to do so. It prevents binding and preloading the RTA , and thus prolongs its life. This applies for any suspension component.

PS it's not hard to work out on paper what exact angle vs standard to go at !

Thanks for the response guys.

So basically, I will need to remove and adjust the trailing arm bushings each time the ride height changes.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kraftycuts

Thanks for the response guys.

So basically, I will need to remove and adjust the trailing arm bushings each time the ride height changes.

---

not really. it functions fine, just for longevity....

more trouble than its worth.