[CL9]2004 Accord Euro Lux 120,000km - recent acquisition - some issues

Hi
My daughter just inherited a 2004 Accord Euro Lux Auto off her grandfather.

It has a few issues that are probably related to lack of maintenance - the service book has no record of anything done beyond the basic engine oil & filter service.

I'll run through my list and what I think needs doing. I'm happy to get any suggestions on what else to do and any other preventive maintenance tasks or known wear items, etc.

1) Auto transmission judders & jerks on light throttle openings - particularly when cold.
The level is at the lower end of the dipstick and the oil doesn't look great. I assume it's never been changed.
My fix: I've purchased 8L of Penrite full synth LV ATF. I'll dump the oil and also blow out the cooler & try and do an 8L flush-through with the engine running.

I figure change the lousy little filter on top of the gearbox too. It doesn't look anything special - anyone pulled one apart?
Anyone tried one of these eBay replacements from China for $15?

2) The steering loads and unloads when going through corners.
3) The steering is quite heavy at parking speeds but comes good once moving above 20kph - is this normal?
The tyres are relatively new (changed last year) Toyo C100 and an alignment was done at the time although there's no guarantee Dad hasn't belted a kerb in the meantime. I put 36psi in them which is better than the 26psi Dad liked to run (he had a 1997 Accord Seppo V6 before the Euro and always regretted the change).
I'm thinking it's fluid again and have bought 1L of Penrite HSPO.
I haven't checked the front or rear suspension - is there anything that is likely to be worn by now?

4) Brake pedal - long travel and not progressive (compared to a VW pedal which are over-boosted).
I'm hoping it's just 12yo brake fluid and have 1L of Nulon Dot4 to put through it.

5) Mild vibration at idle through steering wheel (same as my wife's 2015 Honda Odyssey).
I'm used to a 2007 Octavia 1.8tsi which is clockwork smooth at idle. Is a slight vibration through the steering wheel normal on these engines?

I've filled it with 95ron and some injector cleaner. Based on past practices, I can almost guarantee that Dad used mainly ULP or ULP E10 with a tank of 95 every birthday & Xmas. (He did the same with his Liberty RX and it was a slug when I bought it off him - never came good).

Does 98ron have any noticeable effect on these engines (beside the extra detergent / cleaners)?

Spark plugs look like originals and the gap was about 1.3mm, so I've knocked it down to a loose 0.040" (just over 1.0mm) as a temporary fix. Am I better off spending $15 each on the NGK Iridiums or $7.50 each on NGK coppers (ZFR6K-11) and change every 20,000km?

Air filter looks dirty. I'll swap it out.
Anyone used Wesfil or the no-name stuff from Direct Auto Spares on eBay?

Fuel Filter is in the fuel tank? That would be due by now?

I'm not even game to look at the cabin filter :-(

Is there some way of converting the lights so that they switch off with the ignition? I haven't had to switch headlights on and off for years.

Anything else I need to think about?

Thanks in advance

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brad1.8tsi

.
It has a few issues that are probably related to lack of maintenance - the service book has no record of anything done beyond the basic engine oil & filter service.

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On dear....

Quote:

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1) Auto transmission judders & jerks on light throttle openings - particularly when cold.
The level is at the lower end of the dipstick and the oil doesn't look great. I assume it's never been changed.
My fix: I've purchased 8L of Penrite full synth LV ATF. I'll dump the oil and also blow out the cooler & try and do an 8L flush-through with the engine running

---

.

Yep that's good. I should note the total fluid capacity is just under 9 litres

Quote:

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I figure change the lousy little filter on top of the gearbox too. It doesn't look anything special - anyone pulled one apart?
Anyone tried one of these eBay replacements from China for $15?

---

Get an aftermarket Magnefine filter from repco. The cheap chinese filters will work but most of them don't have the internal bypass like the oem. The magnetize is a bigger a better filter. Only downside being that it won't fit the factory bracket.

Quote:

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2) The steering loads and unloads when going through corners.
3) The steering is quite heavy at parking speeds but comes good once moving above 20kph - is this normal?
The tyres are relatively new (changed last year) Toyo C100 and an alignment was done at the time although there's no guarantee Dad hasn't belted a kerb in the meantime. I put 36psi in them which is better than the 26psi Dad liked to run (he had a 1997 Accord Seppo V6 before the Euro and always regretted the change).
I'm thinking it's fluid again and have bought 1L of Penrite HSPO

---

.

I did a flush with it and used 3 litres to flush everything out. And you're meant to over fill the fluid by a few cm in those cars.

Ps: there has been a power steering hose recall on this car. Has it been done?

Quote:

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I haven't checked the front or rear suspension - is there anything that is likely to be worn by now?

---

Front compliance bushings tend to go at old age but if the cars passed RWC then I'd assume it's ok?

Quote:

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4) Brake pedal - long travel and not progressive (compared to a VW pedal which are over-boosted).
I'm hoping it's just 12yo brake fluid and have 1L of Nulon Dot4 to put through it.

---

That's normal.

Quote:

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5) Mild vibration at idle through steering wheel (same as my wife's 2015 Honda Odyssey).
I'm used to a 2007 Octavia 1.8tsi which is clockwork smooth at idle. Is a slight vibration through the steering wheel normal on these engines?

---

Idle in gear or idle in neutral? If it idle in gear it might be from the transmission instead.

Quote:

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I've filled it with 95ron and some injector cleaner. Based on past practices, I can almost guarantee that Dad used mainly ULP or ULP E10 with a tank of 95 every birthday & Xmas. (He did the same with his Liberty RX and it was a slug when I bought it off him - never came good).

---

E10 is actually "OK" on those cars as long as:

1. Its the 95 octane e10, and
2. you don't keep it in the tank for too long.

91 octane is a NO NO in those cars.

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Does 98ron have any noticeable effect on these engines (beside the extra detergent / cleaners)?

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Not on a stock car no. Just run a few tanks of 95 with injector cleaner

Quote:

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Spark plugs look like originals and the gap was about 1.3mm, so I've knocked it down to a loose 0.040" (just over 1.0mm) as a temporary fix. Am I better off spending $15 each on the NGK Iridiums or $7.50 each on NGK coppers (ZFR6K-11) and change every 20,000km?

---

Get iridium for the application and forget about it for 100k km

Quote:

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Air filter looks dirty. I'll swap it out.
Anyone used Wesfil or the no-name stuff from Direct Auto Spares on eBay?

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Yep. Cheap ebay paper filter is fine.

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Fuel Filter is in the fuel tank? That would be due by now?

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Yep. Every 80k km. I used an eBay one. Works just fine for 40 bucks or so

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I'm not even game to look at the cabin filter :-(

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Swap it out asap. Especially if any family member have respiratory problems.

Quote:

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Is there some way of converting the lights so that they switch off with the ignition? I haven't had to switch headlights on and off for years.

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No.

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Anything else I need to think about?

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1. engine and throttlebody cleaning before your next oil change.

1a. Nulon engine cleaner or the subaru upper engine cleaner.

1b. Clean the intake manifold via the egr plate then throttlebody:
http://hondakarma.com/guides/exhaust...plate-clean.4/
Note: instead of using alcohol in the guide. Use the engine cleaner. And spray some down the holes into the intake manifold.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brad1.8tsi

1) Auto transmission judders & jerks on light throttle openings - particularly when cold.
The level is at the lower end of the dipstick and the oil doesn't look great. I assume it's never been changed.
My fix: I've purchased 8L of Penrite full synth LV ATF. I'll dump the oil and also blow out the cooler & try and do an 8L flush-through with the engine running.

---

I'm a fan of Honda ATF, because of the odd viscosity. However, Penrite should be okay, just check that it lists Honda as one of the OEM standards that it meets.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brad1.8tsi

I figure change the lousy little filter on top of the gearbox too. It doesn't look anything special - anyone pulled one apart?
Anyone tried one of these eBay replacements from China for $15?

---

Good idea, it is a standard auto transmission filter. All of the ebay ones work, although quality can vary. I think there is a DIY post somewhere on Ozhonda on replacing it and a comparison of the different brands.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brad1.8tsi

2) The steering loads and unloads when going through corners.
3) The steering is quite heavy at parking speeds but comes good once moving above 20kph - is this normal?

---

I'd replace the power steering fluid with Honda Power Steering Fluid, and check that the accessory belt tension is okay. If it has nevber been changed, might be worth changing it now. It uses a 7PK1750. You can check the belt tensioner for belt elongation, but it has never been changed, I'd change it anyway.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brad1.8tsi

The tyres are relatively new (changed last year) Toyo C100 and an alignment was done at the time although there's no guarantee Dad hasn't belted a kerb in the meantime. I put 36psi in them which is better than the 26psi Dad liked to run (he had a 1997 Accord Seppo V6 before the Euro and always regretted the change).
I'm thinking it's fluid again and have bought 1L of Penrite HSPO.
I haven't checked the front or rear suspension - is there anything that is likely to be worn by now?

---

36 psi is good. Rare that the alignment would change unless he hit the kerb hard. Check the rims for bad damage. If there is damage, then get an alignment. The front and rear suspension is usually okay if the car was not lowered, but there may be worn suspension bushings by now. Mine are still the original and I am at 141,000km.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brad1.8tsi

4) Brake pedal - long travel and not progressive (compared to a VW pedal which are over-boosted).
I'm hoping it's just 12yo brake fluid and have 1L of Nulon Dot4 to put through it.

---

Yup, change the brake fluid. DOT4 is good. I recommend flushing through the master cylinder (start with the caliper closest to the brake booster, so the order is: driver front, passenger front, driver rear, passenger rear). After flushing, then open the brake bleeder valve again and compress the piston to push out the dirty fluid still trapped in the caliper.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brad1.8tsi

5) Mild vibration at idle through steering wheel (same as my wife's 2015 Honda Odyssey).
I'm used to a 2007 Octavia 1.8tsi which is clockwork smooth at idle. Is a slight vibration through the steering wheel normal on these engines?

---

Engine mounts need replacing. Mine were bad too, and is also a 2004 model.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brad1.8tsi

I've filled it with 95ron and some injector cleaner. Based on past practices, I can almost guarantee that Dad used mainly ULP or ULP E10 with a tank of 95 every birthday & Xmas. (He did the same with his Liberty RX and it was a slug when I bought it off him - never came good).

Does 98ron have any noticeable effect on these engines (beside the extra detergent / cleaners)?

---

The car runs fine on both 95 and 98 RON. Shouldn't be much of a difference, other than the detergents/cleaners.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brad1.8tsi

Spark plugs look like originals and the gap was about 1.3mm, so I've knocked it down to a loose 0.040" (just over 1.0mm) as a temporary fix. Am I better off spending $15 each on the NGK Iridiums or $7.50 each on NGK coppers (ZFR6K-11) and change every 20,000km?

---

Use Iridiums, they are good for 120,000 km.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brad1.8tsi

Air filter looks dirty. I'll swap it out.
Anyone used Wesfil or the no-name stuff from Direct Auto Spares on eBay?

---

As long as they are a reasonable paper filter, it is ok. The air filter is cheap anyway. Won't save much going with no-name, unlike the cabin filter!!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brad1.8tsi

Fuel Filter is in the fuel tank? That would be due by now?

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Yup, in the fuel tank. Due for replacement every 80,000 km. Get it changed!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brad1.8tsi

I'm not even game to look at the cabin filter :-(

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Wear a blindfold! Take pics I guess, it would be fun to see what has accumulated all these years!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brad1.8tsi

Is there some way of converting the lights so that they switch off with the ignition? I haven't had to switch headlights on and off for years.

---

Not that I know of, as the ECU needs to know to take the reading off the sunlight sensor and switch the headlights on and off. Unfortunately, the 2004 Accord Euro uses the sunlight sensor only to boost the fan speed and lower the temperature of the aircon :(

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fredoops

Yep that's good. I should note the total fluid capacity is just under 9 litres

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Thanks, I figured I'd wing it with 8L of good oil and 1L of old crap and do it again in 12 months - couldn't be shagged buying an extra litre for $20 and don't want "spare parts" hanging about the garage.

Quote:

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Get an aftermarket Magnefine filter from repco. The cheap chinese filters will work but most of them don't have the internal bypass like the oem. The magnetize is a bigger a better filter. Only downside being that it won't fit the factory bracket.

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I've just ordered a genuine knockoff from Aliexpress. I'll change it again in 12 months.

Quote:

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I did a flush with it and used 3 litres to flush everything out. And you're meant to over fill the fluid by a few cm in those cars.

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Overfill the PS reservoir? Got a link as to how much?

Quote:

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Ps: there has been a power steering hose recall on this car. Has it been done?

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Dunno. The air bag hasn't been done so I'll ask when I book it in for that.

If they do the PS hose, do they dump the PS fluid or lose a reasonable amount? If so, I'll let them do that then R&R my bit.

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Front compliance bushings tend to go at old age but if the cars passed RWC then I'd assume it's ok?

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Mechs don't look at a real lot when doing a Safety Check these days. I'll jack it up and have a look & give it a shake.

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Idle in gear or idle in neutral? If it idle in gear it might be from the transmission instead.

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In gear. I'll do all the basics (fluids / filters / plugs) and see how it feels then.

Quote:

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Get iridium for the application and forget about it for 100k km

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Just ordered 4x NGK from the USA for AUD50 set

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Swap it out asap. Especially if any family member have respiratory problems.

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Decided to have a peek. Worst I've ever seen. My hands came away black.

Quote:

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1. engine and throttlebody cleaning before your next oil change.

1a. Nulon engine cleaner or the subaru upper engine cleaner.

1b. Clean the intake manifold via the egr plate then throttlebody:
http://hondakarma.com/guides/exhaust...plate-clean.4/
Note: instead of using alcohol in the guide. Use the engine cleaner. And spray some down the holes into the intake manifold.

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Good to see that it's not just VW product that gunks up. I'll add it to the "to-do" list

Thanks for the info

Any idea where I could find the OEM partnos for the cabin filter, air filter and fuel filter?

thx

edit: does this sound right:

Air filter 17220-RAA-A00

Cabin filter 80292-sdc-a01

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brad1.8tsi

Any idea where I could find the OEM partnos for the cabin filter, air filter and fuel filter?

thx

edit: does this sound right:

Air filter 17220-RAA-A00

Cabin filter 80292-sdc-a01

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Any Honda cabin filter would fit, they're all the same, no need for oem

PS: Chrysler also use the same sized and shape filter lol

Instead of subaru upper engine cleaner - WATER, works really really well.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KFtp_jmLF3k

I use a big syringe/marinade injector,just like a turkey baster.$2 from the reject shop.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aaronng

I'm a fan of Honda ATF, because of the odd viscosity. However, Penrite should be okay, just check that it lists Honda as one of the OEM standards that it meets.

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I chose it because it meets Honda DW-1.
https://www.penriteoil.com.au/pis_pd...UNE%202015.pdf

Quote:

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36 psi is good. Rare that the alignment would change unless he hit the kerb hard. Check the rims for bad damage. If there is damage, then get an alignment. The front and rear suspension is usually okay if the car was not lowered, but there may be worn suspension bushings by now. Mine are still the original and I am at 141,000km.

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If the corners of the bumper are anything to go by, he's been touch parking for quite a while. Kerbs wouldn't be exempt.

Is there a thread anywhere on the suspension and what adjustments are available?

Quote:

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Engine mounts need replacing. Mine were bad too, and is also a 2004 model.

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Any obvious signs to look for? leaking oil (assume they are fluid mounts) or do they just look like they have exploded?
Aftermarket source?

Quote:

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Use Iridiums, they are good for 120,000 km.

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NGK ordered yesterday and already in transit. AUD52

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Wear a blindfold! Take pics I guess, it would be fun to see what has accumulated all these years!

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Here it is
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pss6hl69zq.jpg

Quote:

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Not that I know of, as the ECU needs to know to take the reading off the sunlight sensor and switch the headlights on and off. Unfortunately, the 2004 Accord Euro uses the sunlight sensor only to boost the fan speed and lower the temperature of the aircon :(

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I don't need automatic light sensing switching. I just need the lights to turn off when I switch off the ignition and turn on when I switch on the ignition.

It's not that I'm lazy or stupid, it's just what I'm used to. I drive 3-5 different vehicles a week and they all turn the lights on automatically, so I'm out of the habit of switching on/off lights. I've already been caught twice driving the accord down the road in the dark with no lights on like a gormless twit. :eek:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fredoops

Any Honda cabin filter would fit, they're all the same, no need for oem

PS: Chrysler also use the same sized and shape filter lol

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I don't intend buying OEM. On Aliexpress if you search by OEM number it's easier to find a good knock-off. :-)

I was actually thinking of buying some fish tank foam filter and fitting that. About $5 and washable.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by beeza

Instead of subaru upper engine cleaner - WATER, works really really well.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KFtp_jmLF3k

I use a big syringe/marinade injector,just like a turkey baster.$2 from the reject shop.

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Yes, I've been doing inlet cleaning with water for years. If you own VW group cars with direct injection it's an essential bit of maintenance.

I use a mix of 2 parts water, 1 part degreaser and 1 part mineral turps and make up about 2 litres of cleaner. I inject it using a garden sprayer so that it is pre-atomised.

In the 80s i used to run Injectronic water injection on my Falcon & Capri

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brad1.8tsi

Is there a thread anywhere on the suspension and what adjustments are available?

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Yes, if you do a search for "alignment" in the Accord section, you will find it. http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...85#post3211385

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brad1.8tsi

Any obvious signs to look for? leaking oil (assume they are fluid mounts) or do they just look like they have exploded?
Aftermarket source?

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No obvious signs, other than vibrations. Even the front "hydraulic" mount doesn't show any liquid if they fail.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brad1.8tsi

I don't need automatic light sensing switching. I just need the lights to turn off when I switch off the ignition and turn on when I switch on the ignition.

It's not that I'm lazy or stupid, it's just what I'm used to. I drive 3-5 different vehicles a week and they all turn the lights on automatically, so I'm out of the habit of switching on/off lights. I've already been caught twice driving the accord down the road in the dark with no lights on like a gormless twit. :eek:

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It is 2004 technology after all. When driving in the evening, I consciously look out for the headlights sign on the dashboard. Also, at night, the dash instruments light up too brightly if you don't turn your headlights on (they then dim).

edit: Can't see the photo of your nasty cabin air filter!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aaronng

Yes, if you do a search for "alignment" in the Accord section, you will find it. http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...85#post3211385


No obvious signs, other than vibrations. Even the front "hydraulic" mount doesn't show any liquid if they fail.


It is 2004 technology after all. When driving in the evening, I consciously look out for the headlights sign on the dashboard. Also, at night, the dash instruments light up too brightly if you don't turn your headlights on (they then dim).

edit: Can't see the photo of your nasty cabin air filter!

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I have no idea why the photo isn't working. Photobucket folder is set to public. The photo shows on my screen (but it would). I'll try again later if someone also has problems

My Skoda is 2007 - the feature difference is considerable given they are only 3yrs apart and the Skoda was 30% less ($30k). The cultural differences in what Japanese builders think important & Germans / Czech think important are quite interesting.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brad1.8tsi

Yes, I've been doing inlet cleaning with water for years. If you own VW group cars with direct injection it's an essential bit of maintenance.

I use a mix of 2 parts water, 1 part degreaser and 1 part mineral turps and make up about 2 litres of cleaner. I inject it using a garden sprayer so that it is pre-atomised.

In the 80s i used to run Injectronic water injection on my Falcon & Capri

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Ah sweet,interesting.

Sounds like you have been playing with cars for a while . What was the water injection like? just water yeah?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brad1.8tsi

I have no idea why the photo isn't working. Photobucket folder is set to public. The photo shows on my screen (but it would). I'll try again later if someone also has problems

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I can see the photo fine,

Quote:

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My Skoda is 2007 - the feature difference is considerable given they are only 3yrs apart and the Skoda was 30% less ($30k). The cultural differences in what Japanese builders think important & Germans / Czech think important are quite interesting.

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The european version of the same accord had Radar cruise control and crap like that from back in 2005/06.

Honda didnt have it here to cut costs and maximize profit margin.

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Overfill the PS reservoir? Got a link as to how much?

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Just a tiny bit, like 1 to 2cm. Something to do with cavitation of oem pump under pressure or something.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brad1.8tsi

I don't intend buying OEM. On Aliexpress if you search by OEM number it's easier to find a good knock-off. :-)

I was actually thinking of buying some fish tank foam filter and fitting that. About $5 and washable.

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just saw that cabin filter and it reminded me that mine is overdue.

anyone heard of these folks?

http://cabinairfilters.com.au/

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Originally Posted by kryptonite

just saw that cabin filter and it reminded me that mine is overdue.

anyone heard of these folks?

http://cabinairfilters.com.au/

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No but on the surface of it, 3 layer carbon filter, sounds pretty good.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kryptonite

just saw that cabin filter and it reminded me that mine is overdue.

anyone heard of these folks?

http://cabinairfilters.com.au/

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They all work the same, since the Euro's A/C system is not rated to run high efficiency filters such as HEPA.

The ones in the link will filter out your usual dust, pollen, bees etc, and the activated carbon will adsorb some odours as well. The filtration part will last the 2 year changeout life, but the activated carbon will probably be saturated well before then. Give it a go.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aaronng

They all work the same, since the Euro's A/C system is not rated to run high efficiency filters such as HEPA.

The ones in the link will filter out your usual dust, pollen, bees etc, and the activated carbon will adsorb some odours as well. The filtration part will last the 2 year changeout life, but the activated carbon will probably be saturated well before then. Give it a go.

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Could always try: https://www.blitz.co.jp/products/acf...dacfilter.html
Uses a photo-catalyst instead of activated carbon. In theory, just wash and hang up in the sun to dry and it's good to go again.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by beeza

Ah sweet,interesting.

Sounds like you have been playing with cars for a while . What was the water injection like? just water yeah?

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Did a mechanics apprenticeship in the early '80s. Stayed with it for a while and then realised it was killing my love of cars so I went and did something else. It took about 10 years before I became "enthused" again.

Water injection was mainly water but I'd pour some metho in every now & then. It was fantastic on a manual 3.6L XT Falcon I had. You could run triple the timing and fuel economy was amazing an 10L/100km (it had a multi-spark ignition, 350 Holley & extractors as well).

Stupidly sold it and bought a 1600 Capri. Water injection did almost nothing (nor did extractors or anything else).

Re the cabin filter.

Paid $5 off AliExpress. Still waiting - glad I'm not in a hurry.

Was thinking about using open cell foam like they use in fish tank filters - you could wash that whenever you felt like it.

Hmm,I see.All makes sense to me. Water/meth injection I also thought wouldn't do much on my honda,more a big hp mod.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by beeza

Hmm,I see.All makes sense to me. Water/meth injection I also thought wouldn't do much on my honda,more a big hp mod.

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Not much on a stock motor.

But. There's a supercharged euro in Darwin that uses method injection.

Also controled water injection is a very good cylinder cleaner.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by beeza

Hmm,I see.All makes sense to me. Water/meth injection I also thought wouldn't do much on my honda,more a big hp mod.

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Good for turbo / supercharged engines as it reduces intake temps. I'd love it on my Octavia.

It would work on the Honda provided you could access timing and fuel maps.

The Falcon ran quite lean due to the extractors and the way I had it jetted. I also had the spark plugs gapped to 1.5mm which was unheard of back then (MSD6a ignition helped a lot).

I had the msd system on the honda for a few years,I semi miss that...and had the spark plug gaps at 1.5mm too . Obviously meant for bigger set ups but I loved the smoothness it would give you.

Finally got some time to do some work on the Euro.

Fuel filter replaced. It's a 50 minute job but not overly technical. Bought a cheap pattern fuel filter and the manufacturing tolerances weren't as good as the could have been. There were at least 3 problems that I noticed but it worked in the end.
The Honda fuel filter is quite interesting. It's a full flow filter as it doesn't appear to have a bipass. The element is basically a toilet roll with no centre and the fuel travels longitudinally past the paper rather than through the paper.
My filter was black and squeezing the paper made a stream of blackened fuel come out.
The fuel pump itself must be under a lot of stress as the filter blocks.

Air filter replaced. Different vendor but I had to slightly file the location tabs to make it fit. I've never had these problems with pattern parts in the past.

Throttle body cleaned. It wasn't too bad. I have no idea why the link above uses isopropyl alcohol. It's part of the fuel system - carby cleaner works perfectly.

EGR plate thingy cleaned. As above. Carb cleaner works fine.

Earth point for battery where it attaches to body removed, cleaned & replaced.

Coolant dumped and refilled with tap water (I'm in Sydney, it's quite soft water) to flush it through. I'll put coolant in next week. That stuff was black.

Power Steering fluid replaced. Old fluid was black and full of contaminant. Also quite viscous compared to the new fluid.
For those interested in DIY, I looked at a few "tutorials" from "experts" on YouTube and I was appalled at their lack of mechanical ability. The biggest issue was they ran the pump dry and it started squealing. Not one tutorial showed the vehicle running afterwards. By my calcs, the pump moves about 2-3L/minute. How these idiots think they could pour 2L of PS fluid into a reservoir while holding a camera & trying to look cool is beyond me.

I syringed out the old fluid from the reservoir, removed the inlet & outlet pipes and removed the reservoir to clean it (used methylated spirits).
I refitted the reservoir and the line to the pump.
I blocked off the inlet spigot with a piece of old fuel line with a bolt in it. No clamps required.
I extended the return line using a 1/4" drive socket as a joiner and another 600mm length of hose I had on the "useful things" shelf. I routed this hose into a 1L honey bucket sitting in the engine bay behind the fans.
I then topped up the reservoir with about 300ml of Penrite HPSO.
This method is all an amalgam of the good parts of the YouTube experts.
At this point I did it my way. Instead of running the engine until the reservoir ran dry and spinning the steering wheel from lock-to-lock (this empties the steering rack), I started the engine and turned it off almost immediately (should have pulled a fuse to stop it starting but hindsight is wonderful). This would result in about 200ml of fluid coming out. I would then top up the reservoir and repeat. I did this about 3-4 times and as I was contemplating opening the 2nd 1L bottle of HPSO the fluid started running clear (ish). Given the amount of contaminant that appeared to be in the system I think it better to run the PS for a while and do another change further down the track (6-12 months).

Had a quick drive. Lots of initial smoke from all the carb cleaner. PS feels better than before but need to experience a few sweepers to be sure.

Find yourself a workshop manual from honda online. That may help with methodology.

The honda way is to let the steering pump, pump out all of the fluid with a hose off.

The general knowledge is honda coolant should be used as it does not have silicone additives. Also power steering fluid should be honda as well.

There are online parts places like OEM Acura Parts which has part diagrams and posts to Australia. Generally it is better to spend a bit more on genuine parts.


I would also check the engine mounts. Might explain a few things.

edit: In terms of isop alcohol, it is a single substances that evaporates, leaving nothing behind. Stuff like cleaners and greasers often have detergents etc which will leave traces of stuff.

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Originally Posted by Dxs

The honda way is to let the steering pump, pump out all of the fluid with a hose off.

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That's basically what I did, without letting the pump run dry, which tends to ruin seals & bearings

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The general knowledge is honda coolant should be used as it does not have silicone additives.

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That's not a unique Honda trait and coolant has moved on a bit since 2004.

The Honda Type 2 fluid is just a 50:50 OAT (Organic Acid Technology) premix consisting of
1) Ethylene Glycol 47-53%
2) Diethylene Glycol <3%
3) Potassium Hydroxide <3%
4) Hydrated inorganic acid, organic acid salts <5%
5) Bittering agent >30mg/kg (Added so you don't eat it)

OAT coolant has been in common use since the mid-90s in Honda, Toyota, Nissan, Mazda, VW/Audi, Jaguar, etc.

Penrite, Nulon, etc all make compatible OAT coolants that meet or exceed the Honda Specification and sell for a cheaper price.

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Also power steering fluid should be honda as well.

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If it meets or exceeds the Honda specification, why wouldn't you use Penrite HPSO?
In this case it complies with Honda PSF, Honda PSF-II, Honda, PSF-S & Honda PSF-V and is compatible / mixable with the OEM fluid. It will be fine. In fact, I've done a few km since yesterday andthe steering is beautiful. All kick-back gone

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There are online parts places like OEM Acura Parts which has part diagrams and posts to Australia. Generally it is better to spend a bit more on genuine parts.

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Great. Thanks

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I would also check the engine mounts. Might explain a few things.

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Still coming. Ran out of time

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edit: In terms of isop alcohol, it is a single substances that evaporates, leaving nothing behind. Stuff like cleaners and greasers often have detergents etc which will leave traces of stuff.

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Sure, if it was a MAF that doesn't like contaminants but it's a throttle body & inlet manifold. The ideal cleaner is throttle body cleaner.

Cabin filter replaced with $5 unit from AliExpress
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Fitted fine. Can't see any negatives with it except it took a long time to come.

Spark plugs done.
Minor improvements in starting / running / power. It amazes me the resilience of modern platinum spark plugs & ignition systems.

Auto trans fluid replaced with Penrite ATF LV full synthetic and the external filter replaced (AliExpress again). As expected, only part of the full capacity drained. I managed to get 3.8L out. I'll do it again in 6-12 months after the new stuff has had a chance to clean out the internals.
Shift quality is near normal. The light throttle shudder when in top gear has gone.

Started cleaning the brakes starting at the front right as they squeal and feel a bit wooden and the pedal travel is a bit long. As expected, the slider pin lubricant had turned to soap-like consistancy and the rails and pads were clogged with dust & debris. A couple of hours work just on one brake assembly (including cleaning the wheel) and it was back how it should be. While I had the wheel off I bled that caliper. Pedal feels the same but I was doing it solo. I'll do it again with a helper. Squeal is gone from that corner. 3 more to go.
While I had the wheel off I noticed the lower control arm compliance bush was starting to fail. This explains some of the odd cornering behaviour.

Cleaned all the dust & leaves out of the sunroof surround & plenum area.

Pulled the factory floor mats out and washed them - several times. They are now a reasonable shade of beige.

Cleaned and dressed the leather seats. I think the drivers seat is beyond redemption.

Finally this car is starting to become pleasant to drive.

Just ordered all 6 bushes for the front LCAs. $70 delivered

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Originally Posted by brad1.8tsi

Just ordered all 6 bushes for the front LCAs. $70 delivered

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Where did you get the bushes from? Will it be difficult to install?

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Originally Posted by Martin77

Where did you get the bushes from? Will it be difficult to install?

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Ebay: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/330951369398

Difficulty?

Removal of the arm shouldn't be difficult with normal hand tools, jack stands, etc.

Removing the bushes from the arms will need a decent bench vice and a good hacksaw to split the bush or a press with suitable accessories. I'll just cut them out at home.

Putting them in will need a really good, really strong, large vice or a press. My vice is a cheap POS so I'll probably drop them into a mechanic near home and get them pressed in. It will take about 1 hour I'd think - about $100

Difficulty is a bit relative. I've been fiddling with cars for 38 years and have done a lot of work on Minis, Land Rovers and Thornycroft Fire Engines. Anything after that is a doddle. Hondas are usually quite logical in how they are put together and not overly difficult to repair