Changing Transmission Fluid Help DC5R

I own a dc5r with 175,000 km. For the one year i have owned it the gear shifts have been very smooth and overall have felt very solid. However, the last month or so that is not the case. Gears are much harder to get into than previously and overall quality feels bad. Ive never tracked the car but i do drive the car in a spiritedly manner quite often. I am not sure when the transmission fluid was changed last so i am worried if i do change it i could loosen deposits that have settled into place etc. As for what oil/fluid to use i am not sure for my car. Ive done a lot of research but could not find a good reccomendation for my specific car. Would appreciate any knowledge and recommendations of what fluid/oil to use as i am a noob. Keep in mind the issues i have with the car at the moment and the fact that its a daily and is driven in hot conditions in summer. Thanks.

Honda mtf mate,can't go wrong

https://s29.postimg.org/ct71efyrb/bottle_front.jpg

dont think i can buy that here mate.

75w90 gbok oil. If you idunno which oil to use is best to let a mechanic do it.

75w80 is the one you use my friend

Sent from my SM-G928I using Tapatalk

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Originally Posted by Tony99

dont think i can buy that here mate.

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Run MTF06 ( oem honda stuff)

Its not hard to drop the fluid , ask a local DIY guy on here to help

from perth mate.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tony99

from perth mate.

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nice man

go to dealership

ask for oils

go to mech

ask to put in

10/10

would

repair

again

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RenzokukenJ

nice man

go to dealership

ask for oils

go to mech

ask to put in

10/10

would

repair

again

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i know how to change the fluid...

should read my OP...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tony99

i know how to change the fluid...

should read my OP...

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Nothing in your OP states that you know how to change it. Infact , since you are asking for recommendations for fluid , unsure of if deposits or not will be loosened and clearly stated you are a noob it implies you do not know how to.

Buy the recommended fluid ( MTF06) pay someone to change it (mech or DIY guy)

Buy any GL5 75w90

or buy MTF

if you want recommendations, i have used penrite pro gear, motul 300v and motul ff type 2 all with great success.

Also the oil weight should be dependent on weather and conditions for us aussies its 75w90 GL 5 for most modern day cars.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bennjamin

Nothing in your OP states that you know how to change it. Infact , since you are asking for recommendations for fluid , unsure of if deposits or not will be loosened and clearly stated you are a noob it implies you do not know how to.

Buy the recommended fluid ( MTF06) pay someone to change it (mech or DIY guy)

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either way i didn't receive any useful info other than what oil to use. Personally i dont want to pay people for every little thing i need done for my car. Yes I'm a noob. I've only been driving for a year and I've never had the opportunity to learn the basics outside of watching videos on the internet and reading forums. So i would appreciate if people were giving me some good knowledge.

Hi Tony99, On the oil type to use you can go genuine oil which will definitely do the job, after market oils are good too - the grade of oil should be listed in the owners handbook if the car came with that. Other than that most of the retailers will have a look up chart where you can confirm the type of oil brand and grade is best. Bear in mind that you want to make sure you do see a listing for your specific model - assume the DC5R has a LSD factory fitted. I've used Castrol VMX 80 successfully in a LSD equiped fwd honda gearbox.
The metal wearing parts (very very fine particle sizes) will drain out as you remove the old oil but make sure you give the drain plug a really good clean as these are magnetic at times and will hold small bits of debris to ensure that they don't cause premature wear in the 'box. Depending on the breather location on the gearbox you shouldn't really have any sediment/gunk in there unless the box has been submerged for some strange reason....
With ambient temperature this is normally a concern at the extreme ends of the range - eg very negative Celsius and very high celsius, normal operating temperatures ranging from -5 to +45 you'll find the standard stuff works well. If you're operating at the top end of the temperature range consistently then more frequent oil changes would be a good preventative idea. In very extreme conditions you'd look to fit an oil cooler however these are more inclined to be needed in automatics under heavy load like towing applications.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 1wht86teg

Hi Tony99, On the oil type to use you can go genuine oil which will definitely do the job, after market oils are good too - the grade of oil should be listed in the owners handbook if the car came with that. Other than that most of the retailers will have a look up chart where you can confirm the type of oil brand and grade is best. Bear in mind that you want to make sure you do see a listing for your specific model - assume the DC5R has a LSD factory fitted. I've used Castrol VMX 80 successfully in a LSD equiped fwd honda gearbox.
The metal wearing parts (very very fine particle sizes) will drain out as you remove the old oil but make sure you give the drain plug a really good clean as these are magnetic at times and will hold small bits of debris to ensure that they don't cause premature wear in the 'box. Depending on the breather location on the gearbox you shouldn't really have any sediment/gunk in there unless the box has been submerged for some strange reason....
With ambient temperature this is normally a concern at the extreme ends of the range - eg very negative Celsius and very high celsius, normal operating temperatures ranging from -5 to +45 you'll find the standard stuff works well. If you're operating at the top end of the temperature range consistently then more frequent oil changes would be a good preventative idea. In very extreme conditions you'd look to fit an oil cooler however these are more inclined to be needed in automatics under heavy load like towing applications.

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thank you for the reply. will definetly follow the advice.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 1wht86teg

Hi Tony99, On the oil type to use you can go genuine oil which will definitely do the job, after market oils are good too - the grade of oil should be listed in the owners handbook if the car came with that. Other than that most of the retailers will have a look up chart where you can confirm the type of oil brand and grade is best. Bear in mind that you want to make sure you do see a listing for your specific model - assume the DC5R has a LSD factory fitted. I've used Castrol VMX 80 successfully in a LSD equiped fwd honda gearbox.
The metal wearing parts (very very fine particle sizes) will drain out as you remove the old oil but make sure you give the drain plug a really good clean as these are magnetic at times and will hold small bits of debris to ensure that they don't cause premature wear in the 'box. Depending on the breather location on the gearbox you shouldn't really have any sediment/gunk in there unless the box has been submerged for some strange reason....
With ambient temperature this is normally a concern at the extreme ends of the range - eg very negative Celsius and very high celsius, normal operating temperatures ranging from -5 to +45 you'll find the standard stuff works well. If you're operating at the top end of the temperature range consistently then more frequent oil changes would be a good preventative idea. In very extreme conditions you'd look to fit an oil cooler however these are more inclined to be needed in automatics under heavy load like towing applications.

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thank you for the reply. will definetly follow the advice.

I dont think Tony you understand fully what is required. The reason why I said its best if you go to a mechanic is you need to have the car on a level when you measure the refill of fluid. Ill be honest I do with only the front the jacked up but i have done this procedure many times so I know when its actually full.

Full Procedure:

Tools Required:
Hex Bits, bucket to drain the fluid, funnel with a hose attached to it, 4 jackstands and a jack.

Jack the car up on a level ground both front and rear.

Open fill bolt usually a Hex bolt or a 17mm.

Place bucket underneath drain hole

Open drain hole.

Attach your filling device to fill hole

Flush some fluid thru till you see golden takes like 100mls tops to get the result.

While the old fluid is flushing and your waiting for the last drops to come out, clean the bolts with a rag and inspect for shavings.

Close the drain hole and fill it leaks out fill hole.

Close fill hole.

Double check if both the bolts are torqued properly.

Lower car. Go for drive, shift thru all gears come back home and inspect for any leaks.

From the way you have posted, Im sure your gonna have to invest in tools. Hence why you should go to a mechanic or ask a local DIYer
Jackstands are not cheap..... dont cheap out on safety... for the price of this you could get your fluid changed at a local DIYer or even some mechanics.
Also remember to put the old used oil into a sealed bottle and recycle it at your closest recycler. Google oil disposal or recycling around your place. I usually wait till I have 20L and do a trip.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by amant02

I dont think Tony you understand fully what is required. The reason why I said its best if you go to a mechanic is you need to have the car on a level when you measure the refill of fluid. Ill be honest I do with only the front the jacked up but i have done this procedure many times so I know when its actually full.

Full Procedure:

Tools Required:
Hex Bits, bucket to drain the fluid, funnel with a hose attached to it, 4 jackstands and a jack.

Jack the car up on a level ground both front and rear.

Open fill bolt usually a Hex bolt or a 17mm.

Place bucket underneath drain hole

Open drain hole.

Attach your filling device to fill hole

Flush some fluid thru till you see golden takes like 100mls tops to get the result.

While the old fluid is flushing and your waiting for the last drops to come out, clean the bolts with a rag and inspect for shavings.

Close the drain hole and fill it leaks out fill hole.

Close fill hole.

Double check if both the bolts are torqued properly.

Lower car. Go for drive, shift thru all gears come back home and inspect for any leaks.

From the way you have posted, Im sure your gonna have to invest in tools. Hence why you should go to a mechanic or ask a local DIYer
Jackstands are not cheap..... dont cheap out on safety... for the price of this you could get your fluid changed at a local DIYer or even some mechanics.
Also remember to put the old used oil into a sealed bottle and recycle it at your closest recycler. Google oil disposal or recycling around your place. I usually wait till I have 20L and do a trip.

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thanks for the walkthrough. I have everything i need so thats why i said i mostly know how to do it.