92 autocross CRX delsol Vic

Hey everyone Im a long time car enthusiast first time honda owner, from Victoria in Australia. I found/bought (impulsively) a 92 delsol a few days ago its fairly rough but its got some goodies and i think good potential for a autocross/hillclimb project car.
havent had a good look over it but so far ive found:
B20/B18 engine
Skunk2 intake manifold
Whale ***** intake (duno how good these are)
Short shifter
there may be more but i havent had a good chance to go through and check suspension and everything yet.

It also has a list of problems thats likely twice as long as the extras but im fairly mechanically minded so i should be able to sort them out hopefully with the help of the honda pros on this forum.

Welcome! Have anymore photos of the engine of anything?

Not yet wont have time to get into it until the weekend. More pics to follow

Very nice lanevo

Thanks mate, yeah its my money pit. :)
Managed a couple pics after work bay pic to come. currently has some aids sticker bomb wrap on it and while it looks good low AF its not practical for what i wish to use it for so it will be lifted slightly to a point i wont destroy the sump if i drive over a pebble.

Welcome mate,nice cars!

Have you tracked the evo at winton? Always wanted to go there.

I'm keen to get down there soon as a friend offered me a house for a couple of weeks nearby.

Yeah ive been to winton before managed a 1:45 on 7 year old cheapo tyres. Got street semis now so im keen to get back will probably be sept/oct. House nearby would be handy its a 3hr+ drive either way for me

Yeah,makes for a big day...the house is 2 1/2 hrs away... the track seams worth it though.

Its a fun track though i cant compare it to any other because its the only one ive done once this car is running well and im confident with how it runs ill take it up and see what it can do aswell

I reckon you'll get 1:43's or even lower easy. Brand new tyres will do the trick.

Hoping to get into the 1 30s.

Bit of an update
Went over the car abit better found rear end has poly bushes and rear adjustable camber arms.
Previous owner had been running rims without hubcentric rings so ive bought some to fit the wheels.

I also found 3 codes on the ecu 6 14 and 36? 14 and 36 seem intermittent at the moment so ive started diagnosing the coolant temp code and found my gauge sensor was stuffed so i got a couple good ones from the wrecker for $8 and now i have a spare.
Found a leak between the thermostat housing when i pulled the housing off to check the thermostat i found it was heavily corroded and pitted so i have cleaned filled and sanded it back to make it smooth and flat again ive also ordered a new gasket so once it comes ill put it back together and check for leaking if all else fails ive got permatex gasket maker but thats last resort. Ive also ordered a coolant pressure tester so i can test the system further for leaks.
I also have put new plugs in as the ones in there werent correct.
Pics to come on the weekend stay tuned

Nice update man.Also,squirt some water through the throttle body to remove the built up carbon around where the valves seat,then do tappet adjustment.But U probably know that..

Yeah ill check the adjustments when i do the top end seals.

Not alot happened this weekend just pulled and tested fuel sender unit took the thermostat gasket back because it was the wrong one also found my thermostat is a 68oC one instead of the 78oC
Also got my front cam and crank seals

And heres a pic of the engine bay partially disassembled

Got abit done this weekend this included finding and sealing 5 coolant leaks by pressure testing the system i left it pressurised for 2 hours and it only dropped off 1/2 a psi so im happy with that now. Also found several vacuum leaks and opened the FITV and found it wound out all the way so i screwed it back in hopefully itll run and idle alot better now.
Also pulled apart most of the interior and began tidying it up which included removing the horrid stickerbomb wrap.
Hopefully tomorrow i can do the compression test and start it up fingers crossed it runs good and i can get into doing seals and belts etc.

Is the bike yours too?

Yeah, bought that with the intention of getting my bike license and club reging it but ive decided to sell it and put the money into the crx to get it upto spec and club reg that instead

Small update for this week, did the compression test came up good.
cyl1 cyl2 cyl3 cyl4
210 215 215 215

Also ordered a new fuel filter, an inner CV boot and steering rack boot to replace the torn ones.
Pulled the injectors to clean and test them and found the injector in cylinder1 had a cracked tip. Ive seen a few posts of this happening and people saying its fine, but i might check the wreckers for a replacement.

Great find and Good numbers,must be a relief!

If you have any plans to go to Winton,make sure you let me know so I can see if I can get there.I reckon we would be close racing,mad fun :)

B18/20 CRX vs B18cR EKSedan :)

Yeah happy with not having to do a headgasket. Got abit of a list of todo.
Replace rocker cover seal and front oil seals
Replace inner CV boot and steering rack boot
Change leaky P/S hose
Get stock suspension to replace the super lows
Do brake pads/fluid
Get replacement injector and change filter
Change grobt sway link bushes
New tyres
Reseal sump
Incorperate a catch can into the pcv system
Secure the battery
Fix the intake pipe and make a box to cover the pod filter
General oil flush with new oil/filter
Check and adjust valves
Timing belt change
Likely come across more.
Probably wont be taking the crx until next year sometime but i may take the evo out later in the year

The 1:45 time at winton U mentioned before,was that in the evo?

I'm running this air box,love it,it's perfect,takes the normal pod filter.Great design.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universal...kAAOSw0HVWEPon

https://honda-tech.com/g/picture/7422882

Seafoam is the best stuff.In this ad,there is a great description of how to use.Brilliant product.Do the upper head (clean gunk where valves seat/seal),fuel system AND bottom end!!

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-x-tins-...4AAOSwt0FZCVj5


What is "front oil seals",crank pulley seal? Is that one leaking,it can tear and dump all the oil...happened to me,then spun a main bearing,bye bye the d16y4.

Messy job changing a cv boot..$200 for 2 new driveshafts off ebay.

Remember to clean and lubricate the sliding pins in the brake calipers,very important so they work properly.A 1" brake booster/mc was all I needed for great braking when I put in the b18c7.Awesome upgrade,plus I don't have the extra weight and rotational weight.

Is the rear main seal leaking? It's normal for it to drop a few drops a day due to always being installed incorrectly.It needs to be flush with the outer mating surface of the block,where as it is normally hit in 2-3mm more so the seal on the inside is up against the block.THAT'S what causes the constant dribble.

Front seals are cam and front main. Ive done a dozen cv boots before i know they are messy but a $16 boot kit vs $200 ill do it myself everytime. Doesnt seem to be any major leak on the rear seal so itll stay until i change the box way later down the track. (Open diff box at the moment) :(

Got abit done this weekend, ended up getting a new pintle cap for the injector so that was fitted and they were put back in.
I removed the battery tray from the car because it was rusty and gross looking so its been sanded and is soaking in some WD40 to break down the left over rust then ill give it a quick coat of black to make it look less crap, I also got a battery clamp so i can fix the battery down now.
I tracked down some stock suspension and pulled the driverside apart and degreased all the grease that had sprayed in the engine bay and wheel well from the split CV boot which must have been like that for a while because when i pulled it out to clean and fit the boots i found alot of metal shavings :/ so hopefully i can get a good 2nd hand one tomorrow from the wrecker.
I also found the LCA bush that holds the strut was stuffed so i ordered some Superpro ones and burned the old one out with a propane torch (so satisfying)
Also have some Nolathane sway link bushes sitting there to go in once it goes back together then ill do the passenger side.
I found the brake pads have enough on them to last a while so thats one less thing i need to worry about.

Sounds Awesome man, ive only just started to build an EK for track work myself. Although im running only a D16.

Had an EVO VII GSR which I ran around winton and managed a 1:38.9 so would be keen to see what your evo does with new tyres.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ek_TrackAddict

Sounds Awesome man, ive only just started to build an EK for track work myself. Although im running only a D16.

Had an EVO VII GSR which I ran around winton and managed a 1:38.9 so would be keen to see what your evo does with new tyres.

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Since i last went ive put camber bolts in the front havent had an alignment but id say its gone from stock -1 to about -1.5-1.75 so that should help understeer and with the new tyres i should be able to hit dip under 1:40 hopefully i also cooked my pads on the last outting so ive also got ebc reds on now.

Got my new bosch filter today pulled the "old" one off and im pretty certain its the one that came on the car back in 92 because the fuel that came out of the inlet side was like dirt. This along with the wrong plugs the previous owner had in it might be why the car was hesitating and bucking under acceleration. Im sure the car will be alot happier now.

UPdate, i was on holidays for a couple weeks so not alot happened, but ive ordered some front camber arms just waiting on them to put the driverside back together. also pulled apart most of the powersteering to reclamp the hoses as they were leaking/weeping had to drill out a bolt that was snapped off in the pump from the previous owner he was a fan of overtorquing everything. Also went and bought a new oil filter and some full syn 15-60 and ive got tyres just need to have them fitted and balanced.

Ok got the drivers side all back together with the front camber arms, having an issue with adjusting the camber i cant get near maxing the arms out as the upper arm sits on the spring if i do :/ at the moment its looking like i wont get much more than the factory arms and it was all a waste of time/money.

Tyres were fitted and balanced now ive just got to do the passenger side and then ill fire it up and see how it runs.

Upper arm sits on the spring? Wow never seen that before

not the actual upper arm the part that connects the lower control to the upper, its curved and when you get to a point in the adjustment it rubs on the spring.

Update time.

Been on holidays and busy with work so havent had alot of time to work on the car but its getting close now.
Seller for the camber arms said they are made to work with aftermarket coils because they arent as wide aparently so ill have to make do with what adjustment i have for now.
Got an Integra Type R steering rack and put it in have also changed the sump seal and pulled the cover off the flywheel view port to find it also has an Exedy lightweight flywheel so thats another bonus.
Ordered Dizzy o ring and vtec solenoid seal and will be doing front seals and timing belt next.
Bit of a list of whats left to do before i fire

Replace rocker cover seal and front oil seals
Do brake fluid
Incorperate a catch can into the pcv system
Fix the intake pipe and make a box to cover the pod filter
Check and adjust valves
Timing belt change

Well all seals etc have been done and ive bled the brakes. Started it up and bled the cooling system idle is alot better now still has a slight hunt in idle from 6-900 im guessing a vacuum leak somewhere and the abs light is on so still abit of work to do but its slowly getting there may take it aro7nd the block tomorrow to see if it pulls smoothly.

The list
Incorperate a catch can into the pcv system*
Fix the intake pipe and make a box to cover the pod filter
Fix abs light
Fix hunting idle.

Then hopefully roady time

Ok so I checked the codes and got the same 6 14 36 started to pull hair because i had already tested sensors and they were good then i decided to look into wiring and quickly found that there were a few plugs in the wrong places, IACV plug was in the radiator fan plug swapped it BAM code 14 gone. i then scoured the net to find what wired connectors are for which coolant plugs and BAM found the fan plug was in the temp sensor. Heres where it gets abit complex the original plug in the IACV was a Yellow w Black stripe and Red wire connector when i searched it up i get Vacuum sensor plug but i cant find anywhere to plug it in and im not getting any codes for it. I was also stumped because i couldnt find another plug on the loom for the temp sensor only thing i could think of was the previous owner in all his wisdom decided to cut it off, low and behold i found 2 wires for the sensor cut/taped and tucked into the loom sleeve...

So my question before i make a topic for anyone reading is it ok to cut the connector off the vacuum sensor plug and use that? or is there somewhere its spose to be plugged that im not seeing?

Finally got the car to the point i was happy to take it for a drive!
It was only a few blocks but mostly to check if it pulled smoothly and didnt make any weird noises. Pulls great! feels quite smooth only thing I was abit worried about was around 5k rpm CEL would pop up and the disappear once the revs dropped im wondering if this might be a vtec thing? because the oil line isnt currently connected to the head.
When the CEL came up the engine didnt stumble or anything so im abit perplexed as to what it was.
ABS light didnt go out getting code 1 so im going to have to pull the pump and try free it up :/ really was hoping to not have to do it...

Keep this updated

Car is out of the garage pretty much ready for club reg just waiting for the time/$ to take it in and get it inspected. Drives well and im looking forward to competing in it.