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just wanting to ask the question as to which modifications yeild best results for the money..the reason i ask is i would like to get a little more power with minimal outlay as well as not devaluing the car too much remembering this is a classy car which just happens to have a very good engine.
If power - cold air intake is best bang for buck. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by albii
Or to be cheeky - I would suggest selling those heavy 18" BSA rims you have and putting the 16" stocks back on - remove space saver and tools - and whola you have a whole lot more bang and you have made money selling the 18" rims. :thumbsup:
In terms of power, CAI
In terms of handling, Whiteline rear sway bar :D
I agree with that...Quote:
Originally Posted by Slugoid
Best Bang For Your Buck Ever without Spending a SINGLE Cent....... Cut weight off the car!
personally, i'm picking up the whiteline sway bar. for around 200 bucks it apparently really improves the handling - can't go wrong. But your after power ay so i'd say the comptech icebox. I think its about $250 compared to the injen which would be significantly more. It also wouldn't detract from the euro's luxury image and as it looks very stock also wouldn't detract from the cars value. You could also remove the resonator and get some free power ;) just some ideas.
I agree, for power, CAI may be the best mod for money.
Other than that, reducing the weight, although doesn't actually increase power, will nevertheles makes your car feel more powerful because of the power/weight ratio
Just like in the movie Italian Job with the mini's.. They wanted to make it more powerful so wat did they do.. Take out stuff they didn't really need from the car... Weight Reduction...
But won't weight reduction affect ur weight distribution??
do what i did and go weight addition. put a sub and some amps in the boot and you'll get closer to 50:50 :p
Is there any recommended method for hooking up a CAI?
Also, is a lightened flywheel worthwhile?
What is CAI?
i'd say cosmetic rather than performance. reason being is that once your use to your cars performance you ALWAYS dip into your pockets for more :)
ah yes but those wheels look magic on my car.....Quote:
Originally Posted by yfin
Flywheel is not worth the money, I've enquired, it's cheap from Comptech, but to install it ESPECIALLY on the Euro would deemed it "Not Worth" the Bang For Your Buck.Quote:
Originally Posted by joeseven
As for the CAI, what do you mean recommended? My method is to following the manufacturer's methods LOL :p
Cold Air IntakeQuote:
Originally Posted by The-Genesis
I agree - but definately worth doing when you need to change the clutch. As discussed previously my prediction is the Euro will be 0.5 seconds faster to 100kph with a light flywheel. There is a post lurking around from Toda suggesting that they see on the DC5 with just a lightened flywheel pull away from a DC5 with intake, header, exhaust. Maybe my memory is inaccurate on that - I'll see if I can find the thread before I get flamed.Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroAccord13
O them. Ive heard about them briefly. Where can i get one fitted? Are they car healthy/friendly. Like no side effects. Next question would be about $$$ ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroAccord13
no side effects, u can fit one urself relatively easily (some have written up methods on how to put one in with full pictures), it is car healthy and friendly and it gives a deep growl when u accelerate, which sounds meaner than the stock OEM airbox.
THe most popular ones for the euro seem to be either the K&N Typhoon cai and the INJEN cai. There is also the COMPTECH ICEBOX which has some gains on performance as well. (do a search on it). Others include a MUGEN airbox for pple with deep pockets and the GrouppeM airbox. (not too sure about the gains on these but i hear installing an INJEN or a K&N gives greater performance than either of these)
In terms of price, not too sure about K&N. You could probably source one locally somewhere in australia.
as for the INJEN, your best bet would be to go on EBAY and find one for the euro (it will be named TSX as this is what the euro is known over in the states). the INJEN CAI + shipping would come to about 400 AUD. PM Pum[Z] or Mattel and ask how much they got their for.
Comptech Icebox, not too sure either. PM Yfin and ask him where he got his and how much eh got it for. From memory i think it was 250 AUD or something? correct me if im wrong please.
Hope this is information enuff for ya and good luck modding the euro. its an awesome car :D
this is to all the owners with an accord euro, who have installed a C.A.I, does it actually make in difference when your driving the car, can you feel it?
K&N, if its easy to locate i might have a look at that. Hopefully like you mentioned there will be some gain in performance. By the way... the only car shop i know is autobarn :P If there is a shop for CAIs locally around aus, it would be pretty nice and wont have to go on the touble of sourcing it online.
Autobarn do sell K&N. But you might have to wait as they normally don't hold stock (except for popular models like commodore or falcon)Quote:
Originally Posted by The-Genesis
But buying from overseas might turn out to be cheaper.
You can buy K&N direct from Rocket Industries in Sydney - the distributor of K&N in Australia. I know this as they quoted the Typhoon for me about 12 months ago. Can't remember the price but it was substantially cheaper to buy online from USA.
The Icebox costs $150+33 for shipping = around $235 in AUD terms landed. I paid a bit extra for tracked shipping and also for the filter recharge kit.
In one word......"YES"!!!!!!!:DQuote:
Originally Posted by kam
Ok i ahve made up my mind to get K&N Cai for the euro. How much difference does it actually make? does it give the car a but more urge or will i notice a difference in acceleration? will it alter 0-100 time ? that is hoping for a but too much for a basic mod but i can only hope :P this will be my first ever mod. Ok simply i go to powerbarn ask them for K&N Cai for euro (they order it) and also fit it in for a price i assume for me.
Is there any other mods which gain some performance in the car (under 500 dollars)
which i should look into?
Thank you for advice
Re what I mentioned earlier about flywheels - this is what TODA AU posted in this post re DC5R:
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...light=flywheelQuote:
Originally Posted by TODA AU
yesQuote:
Originally Posted by The-Genesis
yesQuote:
Originally Posted by The-Genesis
not a lot else under $500.Quote:
Originally Posted by The-Genesis
If you're settled on a K&N Typhoon (CAI) it would be best to go there equipped with a part number. I just checked the K&N Website for colour choices, and they no longer mention blue.Quote:
Originally Posted by The-Genesis
http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...Prod=69-0025TP
They all have the same part number (69-0025TX), the difference being the last alpha character denoting the finish colour. P = Polish, R = Red, S = Silver
Above 3000rpm it gives the car a lot more urge all the way to redline. Not only will your butt feel it, but you'll deffinately hear the difference as well when you're WOT (Wide Open Throttle).
Below 3000rpm, you lose a little torque, and when you go WOT you're greated with a deep bassy burble as the RPM builds.
The throttle is more responsive and the power picks up quicker. Your 0-100 time should improve.
I'm speaking from experience with my Injen, I imagine the K&N will be much the same. It's one mod you will never look back on!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matell
Loses some torue below 3000.... :( that makes me sort of change my mind about CAIs. Sounds like a side efefct. The euro loves to rev hard but im not sure after you said that. I also checked that dyno chart and do see the loss in the graph seems minor. Can you fellas assure me the advantages outweigh the disadvantages for the car meaning when is tart from stop and accelerate i will some how be disadvantaged due to the CAI.
With any CAI, you are abound to lose power on the low end of the RPM..
would taking off the resonator and getting direct piping straight to airbox help?
No you won't be at a disadvantage unless for some reason you've got the trailer hitch and plan to tow trailers. Then you'd have to rev the engine slightly high and slip the clutch a little more to take off smoothly. I've never understood Honda's and towing....anyway I digress...Quote:
Originally Posted by The-Genesis
If you're a traffic light street racer you might loose the initial launch unless you go from higher rpm, but once you're abouve 3000rpm you'll pull quicker and harder up to the time you change gear. (That sounds disgusting but for once that's not my intention ;) )
On a hill you may notice it, but it's never much fun climbing a grade at 2100rpm-2500rpm. If you're heavy with passengers it may be more apparent. Just do what most people do, and drop down a gear which will put you above 3000rpm, and you'll accelerate up the hill nicely.
The fact that the engine breaths much easier means it's also smoother, and a lot of the low rpm jerkiness is removed.
If you don't want to go the CAI route that's your choice. Nearly everyone will swear behind a CAI. If the below 3000rpm losses really get to you go for a Comptech Ice Box.
Just go for the K&N - you will be happy. The only reason I went Icebox is that I want to keep the noise levels down. Sometimes I need to meet clients in this car and whilst the noise of the Injen/K&N is fantastic it isn't me. I work in a conservative profession so I need to hide my boy racer side.
haha screw the clients..i know of people and they track their m3 s 355 ferraris and gt2 porscheQuote:
Originally Posted by yfin
Those cars were made for the track.. The standard euro wasn't made for the track... The Euro R is a different story...Quote:
Originally Posted by albii
But there is nothing wrong with showing ur boy racers side even if u r a lawyer Yfin :p
Maybe you are right. I should put on a fat exhaust and drop the car on its ass.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pum[Z]
By the way - good chance I will be heading out to Perth for 6 months soon - hopefully can meet up with the Perth Euro boys. :wave:
If you want the K&N Typhoon CAI kit... Search my posts in this forum about my Typhoon kit and in the Articles Section as well......
The euro already lacks that low end torque needed. Well "hopefully" The advantages will outweigh the disadvantages. But i was thinking you lose some grubt below and 3000 and you gain some above 3000, wouldnt that even it out basicaly interms of 01-100 times.?
not really - when accelerating and goin for a good 0-100 time your almost always above 3000 much more than you are below it. If your a fairly consiervative driver that rarely goes above 3000 it's probably not for you
it brings out the maniac with me if i rev too hard :P when i do it once i keep doing it!
looking at the PDF files on the K&N website, there seems to be a lot of work involved with installing the filter, removing the front wheel etc, i thought it was a simple bolt on job! Is it simple to install the filter by your self, or is it better to leave it to the "professionals" ?
I'm tossing up between CAI and Icebox too...this thread is leaning me towards the CAI.
I dont think removing the wheel is what makes it difficult...but just how hard is it, especially on a Lux with fog lamps?
Ask a preofessional i say if you have no clue. Also i would like have some info on that ice box :P
It's very easy to do. I have fogs on my standard, and you most likely won't have the room to get your arm up between the lamp assembly and the resonator to remove the last bolt. Simply unscrew the single screw that secures the bumper to the fender and carefully lift and pull the top edge of the bumper from under the head light. You only need to pull it away far enough to get your arm in to undo that bolt and you're done. Everything else removes very easily and install is even easier.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickt
How many more posts do you need on the Icebox? I think I have posted enough :D What more do you need to know?Quote:
Originally Posted by The-Genesis
lol wanted to know if i can buy one of these locally, is there a side efefct for this one too? Also any performance gains if so how much in your opinion.
read through this thread... that's pretty much been answered already :p
i think locally your looking around $250 and you get less high end but no loss of torque
For any Euro CAI, you do not need to remove the bumper at all :)
Although I've yet to check out Euro77's car to see if the pain in the arse bolt can be removed from under the car....
Yeah to fit CAI...
2 ways... Either....
Remove Front Bumper
OR
Removing front Passenger side Wheel & working through the fender guards..
It all depends what ur more comfortable doing...
Yes you can buy it locally through one of the Ozhonda traders - but it is more expensive than buying it from Acura of Escondido.Quote:
Originally Posted by The-Genesis
Side effects? You mean torque/power loss down low? I think the dyno for the TSX does show a slight dip at low revs but it is less than the Typhoon and Injen - so less of a "side effect" to use your words. When driving I haven't noticed any power loss down low. I notice more response when I touch the accelerator regardless of RPM.
How much performance gain? Hard to say -- what are your expectations. If you are expecting more than 0.5 seconds faster to 100kph you will be dissapointed. But you will not get that with the Injen either. It is, however, noticeable in day to day driving and in gear acceleration.
Lets put it this way - if you don't mind a loud intake without hesitation go for the Injen or K&N Typhoon. Without doubt that is what I woudl do. But if you still want to retain a relatively quiet cabin you need to look at the Icebox.
ive noticed that no one has mentioned a "VTEC Controller", or are these only good for the more sportier Honda models?
Ok thank you for all the information and advice.Quote:
Originally Posted by yfin
DC Sports header is constructed with CNC machined flanges and gives a 12 to 14 horsepower gain.
Just like to bring this up.
http://www.modacar.com/products/Acura/TSX/MODAHEA/
It says up to 14 hp gains. Not sure how big that figure is but any chance i can buy this locally of autobarn and get it fitted. Not sure if this is worth it. I am eagerly waiting for hondata, (sounds awesome) so i cn get one fitted. Still waiting and thinking if CAI is worth it.
Yes you notice it, it has a deep throaty sound which has changed my driving style from cruising to abusive. You get more power from 2500 rpm and higher, its actually slower down at low revs. My is an auto so i put in sequential and hold it in 1st until about 55, then you can push 2nd as far as you like, never get to push 3rd as second still has a bit left at 110km! I have lowered my car added 18x 7.5 Einki rims. I have put in an Alpine dvd player and drop down 15in sreen. DVD is mounted in dash in flush pannel. Next mod is Cusco bars front and rear. Getting new rotors (replaced by honda front and rear). Looking for more low down power now, yet to choose headers and high flow cat back system..not sure which one!Quote:
Originally Posted by kam
euro 05 project, buy my maxim headers!!! hehehe
anyway, i had a CAI on my euro and yes, there is a difference in the sense that it makes a growl when u put ur foot down at WOT (wide open throttle). in terms of butt dyno, very hard to say, although having it in CAI mode makes power down low a tad sluggish compared to stock as Euro 05 Project pointed out. i.e loss of torque down low
But dyno tests have proven that it does make a difference.
Don't buy them ! there CRAPQuote:
Originally Posted by stephen8512
why are they crap sir?Quote:
Originally Posted by jooboo
They are some of the best headers money can buy with unparrelled craftsmanship and there's nothing really bad about them other than the hissing sound and price tag.Quote:
Originally Posted by jooboo
hehehe i think the guy is a high school student.......or someone that just likes to stir the pot.....
either way i think he was just tryin to be funny...in which case he failed miserably.
Has anyone here forked out for a hi-flow catalytic converter? I wonder where this mod would fit int he bang for bucks stakes?
i think matell had one on his car, i think its up for sale atm.
Worth getting the high flow cat IF you have intake, headers and exhaust. If any of those 3 parts were stock, then you should make the cat be the last mod after the 3.
Ive got a Metal Cat, Got it put on the same time as my headers, couldnt tell you exactly how much the cat gained.
Both the headers & Cat gave noticeable top end gain
Agreed.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
On it's own, it's not going to make a right lot of difference. It's about optimising a completely reworked exhaust.
Yeah because a hiflow cat wont do anything if the rest of the exhaust is restrictive. It will just be a bottle-neck.
maybe get hiflow cat when you put JDM header on.
^^ :thumbsup: yup, I forgot about that. Luckily 350G mentioned it. When you get a JDM header, the length of the stock cat is not correct and you need to either cut and reweld to the right length or get a highflow cat. So do it then.