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got off the phone to northside honda and service guy is telling me that it is not recommended to use full synthetic oil for the first 20000km or so because it doesnt offer enough protection to the engine in the wearing in period(too thin)...and because the euro engine runs really hot compared to normal engines it may result in excessive wear ..what do you all think?
Why does the euro engine run hot?
dont know ..thats what the mechanic is sayingQuote:
Originally Posted by wynode
this is strange, have a feeling that the dealer is pulling a fast one on you..Quote:
Originally Posted by albii
'cos syn oil offers better protection than mineral oil and syn last up to twice as long as mineral.. furthermore in a hot engine (as the dealer claims), mineral oil will break down faster, leading to much lesser protection than syn oil in the same operating condition.
there are always the thicker xW-50 viscosity syn oil to choose, if you want better protection.
They're feeding you the company line to try to make you stick with using Honda FEO. I waited until 20,000km to switch to full synthetic which probably doesn't hurt. When I asked about this at my 10,000km they told me a big story about how the VTEC won't operate properly etc....... There may be some truth however as these engines do seem to have a long wear in period.
Come 20,000km I dropped the car off and said "There's a bottle of Mobil 1 in the boot, can you use that please" and they did no questions asked. This is also at Northside Honda. They'll just make a note saying they used "Customer Supplied Engine Oil".
Generally speaking they're good guys there :thumbsup:
yeah they told me to wait until 20000 also matt...long run in for these motorsQuote:
Originally Posted by Matell
Yeah, it won't hurt to keep them happy, besides it will save you $40 in the short term. (Honda FEO ~$40, Mobil 1 ~ $80)Quote:
Originally Posted by albii
they're not using feo on my car ..they said they have type r oil they use on euros type r tegs and s2000
I brought my own engine oil (Shell ultra helix) in at 10000km service, Highway Honda give me similar reason as Albii stated above, the values are different to Honda's recommendation. so I listened to them and used their oil. Don't have any problem with Honda's oil. the price is reasonable too (cheaper than Full synthetic oil).
Anyone know what grade of Engine oil Honda using? semi-syn?? or mineral oil??
I found my the engine didn't respond that well as odometer approaching 30000km, but after 30000km service (oil change, still honda oil), the engine certainly revs quicker. and the runs smoother.
Interesting....I asked about the Type R oil and they just looked at me silly ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by albii
yeeah..well i called them today and thats what they said..type r oil is a semi synthetic and good for high rev high heat performance hondas...they say full synthetic may damage piston tops and boresQuote:
Originally Posted by Matell
The reason why you don't use full synthetic in new engines is because the oil is that fine and slippery the rings on the pistons dont seal against the bore and you get blow buy...
You should be able to run fully synthetic ar atound 12,500 km's
Just make sure when the engine is brand new to give it heaps of push (load)
how high have you revved it up to before the 1000Km service, i've only pushed it to 4000rpm once or twice and i'm due for the 1000km service soon
just don't trash the euro before 1000km service. light and easy throttle, also no hardcore vtecing. lol.. 5500-6000 rpm take off.
as for running on systhetic oil on euro, this is my opinion after all this years fuking with a honda. first 20,000 km try to doing the following
1000km oil and filter change help remove all the little metal microns in the motor by bedding in the motor.
5000km oil and filter agian this time try using a mineral base oil ie somethign like castrol magnatec, mineral based oil with systhetic ester mix.
10000km doing a service again and use a semi sytehic motor oil ie penzzoil semi systheic. 10-40 w i think :)..
by 15000km ur car should be ready to swap to full systheic motor oil, stick with something like shell helix ultra. should offer better protection and slight imporvement in engine performance. Try not using mobil 1 systheic on a honda, make the car engine run more noisy. being a euro u want it as quiet as possible lol..... from experience i find mobil 1 over rated and 2 expensive for wat it is.
A new systehic oil i'm trying out is caltex havoline systehic, and so far for wat u pay i think about 45 bux it pretty good vale for money. rumour has it that caltax get valvoline to manufacture on their behalf in australia and then rebage with caltax. but i don't know how true this is. :cool:
Noooo!!! Drive normally across the rev range. That doesn't mean bouncing off the limiter - just vary the revs (but don't limit to 4000rpm). I also disagree that you should be "light and easy on the throttle". If you want a slow car break it in like that. I say run it through the gears! Just make sure the car is warmed up properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by EURO MY05
It makes a difference how you break in the Euro - I have a healthy example and the break in helps!
another oil that i have tried and i think is good but again to expensive for wat it is. that would have to be the ever favmous redline. their product in excellent, but i think is more suited to like turbo cars ie wrx, skylines or even V8. But as for a honda, i think it not necessary. another WANK :D factor redline marketing team has put togther is that u can run a car on readline for about 20,000km -30000km with out having to oil change. in my view ur better off using a cheaper engine oil but change at a more reguarl interval.
Should I make the ivtec kick in though at whatever rev range it is (4500rmp is it?) during 1000km or can i still do it after 1000km service?
For the 1000km does honda give you the mineral oil or semi synth? what should i tell them to use?
Vtec_inside : do you really need to change your oil every 5000km?
Hmmm. I'm almost up to my 10,000km service. I reckon i'll just switch to 100% Synthetic. Cos serioulsy if you switch too late, there's no point switching.. well less benefits switching.
Mineral and Synthetics have different GOOD qualities. I dunno the the exact details, but obviously synthetic is probably better for the modern engine all round.
I am yet to here what the Honda guys have to say.
Comming from mechanic experience
for the first 1000kms just give the motor heaps of load, if your easy on the throttle your not ganna bed the rings and your going to get exsessive blow by, run in the engine with alot of load and engine braking. If you break your motor in lightly, you will most likely get high oil consumption.
As for oils, wait around till the 10,000km mark before you run full synthetic. Full synthetic oil is that good it wont let the rings bed against the bore and you'll get blow gy and oil consumption problems.
I've seen motors pulled apart with hard breakins and soft breakins and the hard motors have no oil passing the rings but the people that drive like a girl in the first 5000kms of a new motor have got oil passing the rings and fuel entering the oil.
You'll get a top motor with heaps of performance.
similar thoughts on mobil 1 syn oils in honda engine too... overrated.
the first time i use the mobil 1 gold, the engine burnt abt 100ml every 1000km.. although this is well within the honda manuals' note of 1litre/1000km, it is still shockingly high compared to other oil..
i had been using castrol slx and torco, and they do not 'vapourise' so fast.
This is so confusing.
I don't live in Brisbane like the OP but I was told by the service rep at my Honda dealer also - synth oil isn't that good for the Euro for exactly the same reasons. And then he went on to say they use Shell Helix (which isn't that great an oil) rather than FEO.
Hmmms...
Seeing they bill you for the oil regardless unless you bring your own, what would the motive be?
I'll probably run a semi-synth in my engine after 1000km. Still deciding on which one.
That's because they charge you $40 for oil that costs only $25 to buy at kmart! Plus, they use the same oil for all the cars that they service there. I wouldn't be surprised if they use that same Shell oil for an old beater with a loose tolerance engine and for a new i-vtec engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by tanalasta
The reason why you don't use full synthetic on a new engine is because it protects too well. It's so slippery that there is not enough wear. Since there is not enough wear, the parts won't run in properly.
My dealer used 10w-40 Magnatec mineral oil and charged $47 for the oil they used. Now I bring my own oil and get my $47 back plus what is left over.
If you want FEO, you just tell them that you are bringing your own oil and confirm the cost of service (should be minus the cost of their oil). Then before you bring your car to service, you go to their parts department and buy a bottle of FEO for $30 and leave that on the front seat.
After reading the previous posts .. whats the verdict?
is it ok to use full syntethic oil if the car is under 10000 kms??
i'm also due to have 10k service next month, and if its ok with full syntethic oil, maybe i'll just bring my own oil.
another thing that i want to ask (sorry to be offtopic), do you guys service ur euros every 5000kms or 10000kms?
I think it depends on the type of oil you use in your car and how you drive it. If you cold start and then do short trips only or use mineral oil then 5000km.
A full synthetic should last 10000km with regular driving.
The Mechanic of yarra honda in vic suggested me to buy full synthetic Mobil 1 when i did 10.000 service. It was for 2.4L
I service every 6 months. I do 7000km in that duration.Quote:
Originally Posted by ngupil
Are you going to listen to him? If you are, you will have to get the 10w-30 Mobil1, which comes in the gold coloured bottles. It's twice the price of Castrol Edge 5w-30. Of course, you're comparing PAO with hydrocracked. Mobil1 will last longer, but Edge 5w-30 will protect better on cold starts.Quote:
Originally Posted by aDe
Well, I've always used the 5w-50 Mobil 1 on my cars, I've used on my euro before and now in the widebody accord, Never causing me any trouble.
How many kms does your Euro have now? What's the colour of your exhaust tip?Quote:
Originally Posted by aDe
I've sold the euro and was about 50.000kms. The exhaust tip was fine like new, coz i change the stock tips when it was around 5k with remus tips and still shiny when i sold the car
Just stick to Honda FEO because it's not worth the hassle and BS they give you everytime you say "I brought my engine oil".
Honda Australia is ridiculous in implying that their cars are so "Special" that if you use any other brand of engine oil, you are running the risk of damaging the engine.
Every time I took my Euro in for service, the guy at the service department would tell me "We strongly recommend against using synthetic oils blah blah... We have seen numerous instances where the owner used synthetic oil against our advice and had problem with crank shaft blah blah blah"
Mind you, if that really was true, Honda really do make POS cars, don't they?
The problem I had with FEO was that the oil consumption was horrible. By the time I'm due for 10,000km service, the oil would be nearly at minimum level on the dipstick. When I changed over to Shell Helix Ultra, I had no such issue.
I use the FEO oil and have had no consumption or other problems... in the end its all i would ever use... putting in synthetic oil and feeling a horsepower gain is a purley placebo effect - your brain trying to justfiy the extra $25-$40 u have just blown... :)
I used to own an excel which had to run synthetic to keep the tappets quiet - they have little oil holes at the top and get blocked easily by mineral oils... nearly every excel u listen too will have a tell-tail tap tap tap and the oil is the most likly cause for this :)
my mechanic recommended to change the oil every 5000km and just fill her up again
he said u dont need to bother with the filter til the 10000km mark but u could if u wanted to
what can the colour of the exhaust tip tell us?
The best Question to ask the Service Advisor would be "Could you put that in writing for me please, so I can write a letter and tell all the other Oil Companies that their product is not suitable for Honda Engines?"Quote:
Originally Posted by coladuna
Ask them "Since when did HONDA start manufacturing there own Lubricant Products?
Ask them "What is the actual brand of Genuine Honda Oil?".
90% of the Service Advisors haven't got a clue about Cars, or how they actually work.
I've been on the tools for 26 1/2 years as a Mechanic and I've worked 16 of those years in Dealerships and some of the crap that comes out of the Service Advisor's mouths is embarrassing.
I've got over 215,000 Km on my 92 CB7 F22A9. I've used it as a Test Mule for different Brand Mineral, Semi Synthetic and Full Synthetic Oils over time but I only use PENNZOIL 5W50 100% Full Synthetic now.
I don't even bother checking the oil level between Servicing because I know it will remain on the full mark at all times, as it always has, and I give it an absolute caning at times too. These old F22A are almost bulletproof when they're looked after.
I Flush my oil with Wynns Engine Flush and change the Filter every 5,000Km
The 2.4L EURO Engine would be a far more superior engine than the old F22A, with a lot tighter tolerances too, so I find it very hard to believe that Burning Oil in one of these engines would be seen as acceptable.
Any manufacturer than states it is acceptable for a New Engine to Burn up oil between Services are just copping out. They just don't want to have to Rebuild the Engine under Warranty, plus it wouldn't look too good for their product.
Some Manufacturers use a "RUN IN" Oil when New and Change it to the Recommended Oil at the 1000km 1st Service. Not sure if Honda does though.
Finally, If they say that other oil brands will damage the engine then you would have the backing of the Oil Companies on you side if they threaten to void the warranty.
Changing your Oil every 5,000 km is good practice, but I would always recommend that you change the Oil Filter as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by fraqqie
A Genuine Honda EURO Oil Filter (P/No: 15400-PLC-004) only cost about $18.50 retail. Very Cheap Insurance I say.
As far as the colour of the exhaust tip goes, it can tell you if the Engine is Running Rich, Lean or Burning Oil.
A Black Sooty Tip is an indication it is Over-Rich
A Lighter Grey Colour is an indication of Over-Lean
A Whitish Grey colour is an indication of Oil Usage.
When you start the car have a look for Blue/White Smoke at start up, don't confuse it for condensation/steam. If the engine blows a large puff of Blue/White smoke it could be an indication that the Valve Stem Seal have been compromised. White/Blue Smoke while the engine is running is an indiciation of Worn or sticking Oil Rings or Dislodged Valve Stem Seals.
Some engines have a tendency to have faulty valve stem seals. They use an UMBRELLA type seal that can dislodge from the seat and as the valve moves up & down it acts like an efficient little oil Pump. This would more than likely be the reason the EURO Engines would be using oil, not because of worn or sticking rings. If the Valve Stem seal is worn, split or dislodged the Oil gravity feeds down the Valve Guide onto the back of the valve and into the Bore where it sits until the engine is started. The residual oil is burnt in the combustion chamber at start up, that's what the Blue/White Smoke is.
Sometimes it's as easy as replacing the Valve stem seal's only, Which can be done on the car without major head work.
An easy way to find out what is causing Oil Usage is to do a Wet & Dry Compression Test.
LOL, Honda oil in Australia is made by Castrol! I think Honda oils in other regions are made by different companies because the bottles are different and they also have different grades, like a 10w-30 semi-synthetic which we don't get.
Anyway, Honda Australia has already given a statement to another member on this forum that is is alright to use oils of other brands as long as it is the right viscosity and that the quality of the oil is better. Quality-wise, it is easy to exceed Honda FEO because it is a mineral oil.
Just a little off topic stuff, but I'd like to remind everyone to let your engine warm up a bit for 30-60 seconds before taking off, and also to keep it to light throttle until the needle reaches near the middle mark. Also, service your car on schedule and use the proper 10w-30 oil for the Euro (0w, 5w and 40 oil is fine too).
In my carpark, I was taking stuff out of my boot. Parked 2 cars away was a silver Euro. Saw the lady owner get in and start the car. First thing that came to mind was that the engine sound was weird. It was like the sound of an old camry! She then proceeded to drive out, and damn, it sounded louder than the usual auto trans Euro (which is virtually silent except for the transmission noise). She drove past and I could see quite a bit of smoke coming out of the exhaust. I thought it was just steam as it is winter and all. But then I noticed the smell. It smelled sweet. It was not a typical exhaust smoke smell. It was not the smell of the cat convertor working. It was a very very odd and sweetly sickening smell.....
That engine was stuffed.
That can be a problem for some people too but not necessarily so.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spec83
My PENNZOIL Supplier gave me 5 litres of 5W50 100% Full Synthetic to try and there is a noticeable difference in power, albeit only slight. I won't use anything else in my own car now.
With the Combination of using 100% Synthetic Oil, NGK Iridium Spark Plugs, K & N Air Filter, Shell Optimax & Wynns Octane Booster, you'd be surprised at the extra little gains I got. I also done a complete Auto Fluid Exchange with my Wynns Transerve II Machine using Honda ZF1 ATF. I also Cleaned the Throttle Body, Intake Manifold, Cleaned the Fuel Injectors and De-Carbonised the Engine with my Wynns Enviro-Purge Machine.
For a 14 Year Old F22A with over 215,000 km on it she certainly has got a bit of go in her. The acceleration feels quite crisp. Even the Kickdown Acceleration is impressive for a relatively Stock Engine.
My mate, who owns a 90 CB7 with a H22A Auto, was quite surprised at the Take off Acceleration it has. He told me it felt quicker than his H22A.
So imagine what these little goodies would do for a 2.4L I-VTEC Engine.
Got a quick Q GEN46L, when you changed your plugs to NGK Iridium, weren't the stock ones already Iridium??? They are meant to be either Denso or NGK branded.
Dead right aaronng, Just jumping in and taking off would have to be the quickest way of stuffing an engine up. That's where 90% of Engine wear occurs. Funny thing they are the first ones to complain when the engine blows up before it's time.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
I always recommend to my customers to Warm the Engine up before Driving Off. Even an extra five minutes in the morning can make all the difference.
I usually wait until I see the Temp Needle rise before taking off, unless it's an emergency or I'm running very late.
It's criminal to see these people abuse there cars like that. How could they do that to a EURO.
Unfortunately I'm not privelidged enough yet to own a EURO. I've still got the Old 92 Gen4 F22A. It had plain old NGK ZFR V-Groove's in it.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Doh'! My bad....Quote:
Originally Posted by GEN46L
BTW, I just changed the fuel filter off our 94 F22A. There was heaps of gel in it. Before, the car would not pull in 4th gear at 120km/h (it is an auto). Now with the new filter, it pulls even above 130! This is without downshifting. Pretty good considering the filter only cost $10.
BTW, before people flame me for speeding, this was not in Australia.
Sounds like a problem with Water Ingress or Condensation in the Tank.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Cars in Colder climates are more at risk.
The condensation that forms on the roof of the fuel tank drips into the Fuel and floats to the bottom because it is heavier than fuel. Over time these droplets build up and are picked up by the fuel pump and end up clogging the fuel filter. The breakdown of water molecules can also elevate the sulphur content when mixed with the fuel and can be damaging to engine components over time. The excess sulphur builds up a varnish in the fuel lines, rails & fuel injectors. This results in loss of power as well. Regular Maintenance of the Fuel Injection System will remedy the problems.
The gel is a mixture of the water & fuel molecules which can also cause blockages. It doesn't hurt to tip a bottle of Wynns Fuel System Cleaner in every 5 tank fulls during winter to help disipate the water and clean the varnish off. The good old Metho Trick works a treat too.:thumbsup:
I think people who leave their car running in the morning to 'warm' up aren't too clever.... it's better to warm up the car by taking off straight away and driving gently for a while....your engine oil might be warmed up but heck, your tranny oil sure ain'tQuote:
Originally Posted by GEN46L
I am sure the Euro manual says what Aaronng has suggested - 30 seconds to 1 minute (or words to that effect) when the engine is cold. I find the temp needle is well on its way towards the centre in 30 seconds - (the engine warms up very fast).Quote:
Originally Posted by hotout
As for oils - I changed to my own full syn at 10,000kms service. Not once has the dealer complained (and I have tried a few dealers now). Between 10k and 40k the car has only used oil once between servicing - just before the 40k service I noticed the oil was just a fraction under full. Not much, I know - but previously it used nothing between servicing. It must be all the VTEC action when I was in Perth. PerthEuro knows what I am talking about - so many sweet open roads in Perth.
It takes time for the oil to circulate around the galleries in the engine. That's why I suggested 30-60 seconds. After that you can drive off. The engine oil is still cold then, but the oil will at least provide some protection when compared to driving off straight away after starting.Quote:
Originally Posted by hotout
Great info! However, the car was in Malaysia, so that's at least 30ºC all year round. Granted it was a 13-14 year old car with over 250,000km and still on the original filter!Quote:
Originally Posted by GEN46L
Actually, I read in the manual or somewhere else (can't remember where) that with modern engines, it's actually bad if you warm up the engine by standing idle. Can't confirm if it's correct as I can't remember where I read it.Quote:
Originally Posted by GEN46L
That's exactly what I read somewhere. It's worse to warm up the car by sitting idle.Quote:
Originally Posted by hotout
That's very true, Should only let it sit there for around 10 secs at the most and then start to drive very slowly!
If you let it sit there & warm up, the oil stays cold for longer and the oil pump does not push the oil around quickly enough to lubricate your motor. It's like if you start up and old car and you can hear the top end ratteling and you give it a few little revs it will go away because the oil is starting to flow around & also warm up. The best way is to start the engine, let it sit for 5-10 seconds and start to drive very slowly with very light load and low rpm's (without bogging the engine ofcource) after you have travelled around 10-15km the oil should be pretty much warm and ready for anything :)
You want the motor to warm up as quikcly as possible without putting it under any major stress. letting the motor turn on idle cold for long times will create problems
My euro has 40,000 on it now and i have done alot of vtecing lately and i have never even seen a drop get used! Been on 5-40 motul synth since 10,000km's.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tknova
motul 300v chrono or 8100 excess?
running synthetic oil in a motor before the rings have had a chance to bed in you run the risk of getting blowby because the oil is thin it gets by the rings and forms a permanent channel for oil to slip past called blowby
you learn these things when you buy a new motor unfortunatly i thought i knew best and nobody told me other wise so i used mobil 1 in my new remanufactured commodore motor and now have blowby
wen we raced HQ's wed have our motors run in by Dave at charsleton dyno & exhaust at blacktown. Wed take all kinds of oil hoping to see wat is the best for power gains on a dyno we tryed mobil 1, castrol R spec, just to name a few but i nearly fell over wen Dave told me he wont runin my 8 grand motor on the dyno with mobil 1 cause it would take a week and made us go and get no name oil the shitest stuff we could find
ah yeah in a 202 inline six running avgas mobil 1 made 3kw more than any other oil
Follow my method, and you can VTEC and stay above 5000rpm for a total of 90 minutes without drinking ANY oil. NO change in oil level, no oily exhaust.
i used mobil1 10w-30 at 20000km service, to be honest it's smooth but also LOUD!
i am punching near 5000km in just 1.5 months can't wait to change to another oil "not better" but at least will reduce the tapping noise.
can anyone give me a good example like castrol 5w-30? motul 5w-40? shell helix ultra 5w-40?
i am quite keen to go for 40 because 30 is too thin i think.... or maybe just me....or just mobil 1 that's making the noise, hate it.... :(
The noise if from Mobil1. Many forums (not only Honda) report that Mobil1 cause loud tappet noise. To go for the same level as Mobil1, you would have to go for Castrol 0w-40, Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40 or Motul 8100 Xcess 5w-40. They are not 10w-30 though. You could go Motul 300V 5w-30, but that is an ester-based synthetic and much more expensive than a PAO.Quote:
Originally Posted by petsfact
Castrol 5w-30 is not the same type as Mobil1. The 5w-30 is a hydrocracked oil and is actually a mineral oil that protects as well as a synthetic but lasts only as long as a mineral.
Give Castrol 0w-40 a try. It's not as quiet as 5w-30 but it is smoother.
8100, the 300v is a bit of an overkill for a street car.. I would put it in if it was cheaper :)Quote:
Originally Posted by petsfact
LOAD LOAD & MORE LOAD!!!! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
but i remember someone on the forum saying don't go 2 steps down or up from the factory recommendation. isn't 0w 2 steps down than 10w?
2 steps down for the 2nd numberQuote:
Originally Posted by petsfact
1st number is SAE oil viscosity equivalent at -18ºC, while 2nd number is SAE equivalent at 100ºC.
The first number 10w means it has a viscosity like an SAE10 oil at -18ºC. 5w means SAE5. 0w means it is the same as 5w, but it can be poured at a lower temperature (10ºC lower than 5w before becoming not liquid enough to flow).
So 1 step down from 10w is 5w, while 0w is the same as 5w but has better flow capacity at lower temperature.
At the upper end it is like normal for 100ºC. 30 means equivalent to SAE30, and so on. I wouldn't go even 1 step down, as that means the oil (20) is very thin. Going up 1 step is ok. Going 2 steps up is not as good, because it is too viscous and cannot get in between the 2 metal surfaces in small gaps in a fine tolerance engine.
hmm... i normally let my car warm up for a few minutes when its really cold... is it really that bad for the car?
I usually turn the car on, leave it idle for 30 seconds to get the oil flowing. Then depending on the coolant temperature. I usually wait until 20ºC, which is pretty quick. That means in summer, I just wait for the 30 seconds and then drive off as the oil temperature is already 30ºC.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_F
tak faham lah.......:confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
how about you type in englishQuote:
Originally Posted by petsfact
Haha, I actually understand malay.Quote:
Originally Posted by petsfact
Euro has to use 10w-30 as standard.
Generally you can go up or down 1 step. The manual says you can use:
0w-20
0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30
0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-40, 15w-40
First number is when cold, second number is when hot.
From all this, I feel 0w-20 is too thin for hot temperature protection, while 15w-40 is too thick to provide cold start protection (because of the 15w).
Why you can use 0w eventhough it is 2 steps down from 10w? Because 0w is the same viscosity as 5w. The only difference is that at -40ºC, 5w doesn't flow as well as 0w. 0w can flow down to -50ºC
haha..... thanks for understanding malay :DQuote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
so mobil 1 10w-30 and castrol edge 5w-30 has same thickness? so i guess it won't cure my tapping noise by putting in castrol 5w-30.
I am actually quite keen to try these oil, castrol 0w-40 (as recommended in this discussion), shell helix ultra 5w-40, motul chrono 300v 5w-40. Just not sure which to choose from as i travel a lot 5000km in 1.5 month i need something that is up for the abuse (i.e entering freeway just 2 minutes started driving from home) then stop and go traffic for about 30 minutes each and everyday (morning and evening).
btw if you do come from where i come from do you know how much these car sell in "that country"? :)
When warm, yes, Mobil1 has the same viscosity as Edge. But, Mobil1 is a PAO synthetic while Edge 5w-30 is a hydrocracked synthetic. That means MObil1 is the true expensive synthetic that everyone knows about, while Edge 5w-30 is the cheaper, mineral oil based synthetic.Quote:
Originally Posted by petsfact
If you have tapping noise, change from Mobil1. Many people from the US forums have reported that Mobil1 causes loud tapping noises. Give Edge 5w-30 a try. If you find that it doesn't last that long, then you can use Edge 0w-40 instead because Edge 0w-40 is a PAO oil like Mobil1.
As long as you give 30 seconds for your oil to circulate, drive normally until the temperature needle is at least 2/3 up, most of these oils will protect your engine for your driving style. When you enter the freeway, do you use full throttle? If you do, I think 2 minutes is not enough before entering the freeway. Or you can enter the freeway without using full throttle, i.e. driving normally.Quote:
Originally Posted by petsfact
Hehe, I bet the price will be 200% of here. But not as bad as Singapore. Singapore would be 400% of australian prices.
As mentioned in other post's in other threads I have been using Mobil 1 since the first service & have now done about 75k. The engine runs as good as ever, I just ran over 1000km's over the past weekend & got just over 7l per 100km's. The engine never uses oil between changes & gets driven hard when appropriate. Idid think that I had an issue with tapping but the dealer assures me that the noise I can hear is the injector pump!!! I have nothing to quantify that using a synthetic oil is better than using a mineral oil, but I feel better for my car knowing that I am using a good oil.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eurotony
like, do you hear it while standing in front of your car for a smoke? (i do)
you hear a slight ticking noise when the engine is at idle. I don't think the type of oil has anything to do with the noise. i'm told by the dealer that the noise is the injector pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by petsfact
There is injector noise, and there is tappet noise. With Euros, I find the injector noise loud. But it was like that since new. So I never noticed the injector sound appearing suddenly one day.
Has anyone tried Royal Purple oil in the Euro yet?
http://www.royalpurple.com.au/html/s...op_id=60&dsa=0
Any comments or views?
Switched from Motul 4100 semi-synthetic which I had been using from the 1000km service and 5000km (intermediate 3 month) service to Motul 8100 fully synthetic 5-40W at 10000km.
My Euro hasn't had a problem so far and the reason for using a full synthetic is that I don't need to service my car at 15000km for an oil change.
Why don't you want to change your oil every 6 months/10000km?Quote:
Originally Posted by tanalasta
Going 3 months/5000km is too short with a semi synthetic. Your Motul 4100 would have still been good.
I do. However, I see no point in doing a 3 month / 5000km service with non-synthetic oil that does not last 10000km.
I drive >10000km in 6 months.