Hello all,
I was wondering if anyone had recommendations on the interval to change the manual tranny oil. In the service schedule, I don't see a transmission oil change listed for the first 5 years!
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Hello all,
I was wondering if anyone had recommendations on the interval to change the manual tranny oil. In the service schedule, I don't see a transmission oil change listed for the first 5 years!
According to the Best Motoring DVD that Yfin lent me, the Technical Director of Spoon Sports recommended that the tranny oil be changed everytime with the engine oil change...
I might just do that LOL!
Very interesting question - I was watching a Best Motoring DVD and one of the senior people at Spoon was recommending for Hondas changing transmission oil when changing engine oil. He was saying that transmission oil goes through more stress than engine oil but it not changed often enough.
I have had mine changed under warranty at 25,000kms as I have had 1st gear selection problems. The oil change did not fix the issue. Looking around on the internet - I think it is the synchros - they are too slow in 1st gear especially when cold. If I depress the cluch and wait a second it will engage 1st gear no problem. If I depress the clutch and immediately select 1st (ie less than 1 second) it will not engage 1st. I have adapted my driving style a bit and it seems to work.
I had mine changed at 5000km.
planning to change in 20,000km interval.
Cool, I just had my 10000km service yesterday. I'll change the transmission oil at 20000km. Any idea on the price? What is Honda Australia's take on gearbox problems with an aftermarket knob? Hehe.
aftermarket knob shouldn't affect anything coz it doesnt really change anything mechanically just aesthetic
I've had them change my transmission fluid at each 10K service since my 20K when I switched to fully synthetic oil and had them do a compression check. I too got this idea from the same DVD and it makes sense to my engineering mind :)Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Without checking receipts (they're in the car) I think my 30K service was approx $230 (excluding the cost of the oil I supplied). Add about $40 more if you're using Honda Oil.
keep in mind guys...
that recommendation in the BMI ep was meant for ppl who track their cars regularly...
if its just for daily driving.. changing it every time u change ur engine oil is a bit of over kill imo..
Man, that's quite cheap. My 10000km service cost me $247 with their oil. I will be switching to synthetic at 20000km, and I think I'll get them to change my transmission oil as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Matell
Even my dad (who is conservative) said to change tranny oil once a year.
I drive quite hard and every once in a while I may have a slight gear buzz changing from 1st to 2nd (Maybe once per 10000km if I'm unlucky). It's impossible for this not to cause metal particulate, no mater how many micron in diameter.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Of course this doesn't receive any filtration and even though it may not be abrasive enough to cause undue wear to the case hardened gear teeth it can accumulate around bearings, keyways in the shafts, and clips. All of which the presence of contaminants in the oil will cause to wear.
I personally like to know that that my transmission is being bathed and lubricated in clean oil. I figure if you can afford the extra $70 or there about per service it's not going to be of any detriment. Besides afterwards the gear change feels like a new transmission. :)
Each to their own :thumbsup:
Hey Matell - what do you mean by this in terms of "buzz" - what does it feel like?Quote:
Originally Posted by Matell
This is true.Quote:
Originally Posted by ^^v
And also, if you have screwed your synchros, you know. because it will be difficult to shift, especially down to the gear, only in that gear. With oil problems, it is more difficult to shift into all gears, both up and down (but more so down)
Exactly that. When changing very quickly from 1st to 2nd or if changing gears hurridly and sloppily there might be an occasional wirr or buzz type noise as I imagine the gears and synchros have a little operator induced disagreement and feed a high frequency low amplitude vibration up the gear stick. It can last for only a fraction of a second before gears engage or sometimes it'll be like a wall and would buzz for as long as you tried to force the lever back into second. Leaving you to slow things down and try again.Quote:
Originally Posted by yfin
Other times it could be a definate low frequency, medium amplitude coarse mechanical noise like the raspy sound of clearing your throat. Which is what I'd personally consider an embarrassing "teeth cleaning" session.
Both are noises no one likes to hear as the operator is inducing undue mechanical wear on it's components. I've experienced the latter about twice in the 33000km's I've had my car, and the former probably at least once per 10,000km. If you hear or experience it once, there'll be extra metal contaminants in the MT fluid besides that from gears mechanical interface. That doesn't mean you need to change your fluid every service, it's just what I personally like to do.
Man... that sounds painful. I`ll get my transmission oil changed next round. I`m sure I`ve got some metal floating around in there.
I recon if u havent tracked ur car then chainge the tranny oil every 40,000 km's at max and if u want do it every 20k but if uve tracked ur car then do it at the same time as ur engine oil, as ur tranny oil is not cooled or filtered it just sits there at high temps bathing ur gears ect
hey guys just one more thing before i get into this :)Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
what size washer do i need for the plug A plug B and size washer for filler hole for the gearbox thanks
i used the old washer.Quote:
Originally Posted by felixd
i think repco sells some washers, not sure about the size.
hey man,
it's a 14mm washer for the drain bolt and a 20mm washer for the filler bolt.
enjoy the smooth changes afterwards :D
what about the (D)washer cuz im going to drain the whole fluid out of my gearbox oil :DQuote:
Originally Posted by euromandeluxe
D washer is 14mm and A washer is either 18mm or 20mm. I'll measure when I get home.Quote:
Originally Posted by felixd
thanks arrongg :)Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
OR you could just walk into your local honda dealer and get both for under $2. Although it's more expensive... It's just easier and you know it will fit and seal correctly. They aren't just normal washers. The Drain washer is a "Crush Washer" where the side that contacts the transmission is made of softer aluminium that forms shape to the surface to create a better seal.Quote:
Originally Posted by felixd
Just checked. D washer is 14mm and A washer is 20mm.Quote:
Originally Posted by felixd
You can buy it from any auto parts shop as long as it is an aluminium crush washer. Try not to use the copper (reacts with aluminium) or the fibre (breaks down after a long while) crush washers. I get 14mm crush washers off ebay from the US as they are the same size as the engine oil sump plug crush washer.
anyone know the diff between HONDA MTF vs Valvoline MTF?
who makes Honda MTF?
and a totally unrelated topic (quick question). is 5W-30 Engine oil okay for the euro?
Unless Valvoline MTF is 75w80, I would stick to Honda MTF.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken-f
Yes, 5w-30 engine oil is fine for the Euro.