ECU Comparison Page

Hey all, been working on a table which compares many popular ECU's
Lately there seems to be many questions to what features ECU’s have and don’t have, so iv summarised all the data, ill leave you to decided what’s the better ECU, again what’s best is all relevant to what you require.

If you would like an ECU added to the table please email me all the info or product manuals etc so I can generate the data required.

The page is located at

http://www.hondata.com.au/ecu_comparison_page.htm

Enjoy

Regards James

good stuff James.. keep up the work

:D

Ken

looks like the only 2 that slightly compare are motec and hondata!

The correct ECU all depends on what features the end user needs... but it’s very hard to ignore the black and white facts when you compare features.

Regards James

just a quick question... the S200 ECU, is that the basic one? What other classes of ECU's does hondata make?

There's the s100 which doesn’t support datalogging, 3step rev limitor or the g sensor, which is typically around 50$ less than the s200, Apart from those differences all the features are the same.

The s200 is fully scaleable also, and supports all those features it is the top line product. Price is dependent of corse on what features you want, no point buying datalogging if you don’t own a laptop or palm hand held pc.


Then there is the new K ecu which will be released soon...which is a totally different ball game !

Regards James

Seemed to me that the Hondata S200 is by far better than most of them. Very serious ECU BlackCRX, good site (you probably heard this heaps) "well done" :)

James

I'm saving already man

Looks like I'll be getting the s200 unit with the boost capability and three step rev limiter in June when it goes into Croydon to get the manual conversion done!

James, the Apexi V-AFC allows the engine to run in closed loop...

and how does the hondata for the PR3/PW0's compare on that table?

The V-AFC has no control over the Honda ECU to if it run's in open or closed loop, all it does is bend the voltage output / input on the wiring harness, the stock long term and short term o2 changes are left in place which is why vafc's need to be retuned or stock ECU’s need to be reset often. The stock Honda ecu will run in closed loop ( using o2 sensor ) for any settings above 45% throttle then swaps to open loop, although both open and closed loop operations are variable by the short term and long term o2 changes.

The pw0 pr3 ecu’s have the same tuning abilities but can only map upto 9000rpm the ecu will read over 9000rpm but will use the last collum / settings for 9000 rpm all the way to what ever is required… so there’s no big problem there.
It also doesn’t have nitrous or water spray control, nor does it have the g sensor possibility…. and that’s the major differences. Tuning wise / configurability is almost the same.

Regards James

how about we hear from some people who have had experiences with hondata ?
anyone on this forum ?

http://www.ozhonda.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2346

:D

-az

Thanks guys.. for ya comments ;)

Not 2 mention...

Nick from APC in qld now use's Hondata they had the first 10 second Honda

Jim from Croydon, Australia’s most famous workshop also now uses Hondata

Dynodave from Redline motorsports is now custom tuning Hondata around NSW

Adrian from Razz Tech in Melb with the fastest Victorian Honda uses Hondata

The worlds fastest NA Toda car uses Hondata, just ask Adrian from Toda Australia what he thinks about Hondata ;-) PS Toda Products RULE ;) if your not using Toda cam’s in your modified engine you should be shoot !

The worlds fastest Turbo car’s Use Hondata.. And so the list goes on and on ;-)
I pride my self with Customer service no1, no2 a quality product, there’s no room for second best.

Regards James

Good info.

Just a quick query. For the E-manage, under Fuel control it says +/- 20% ?

E manage being a piggy back intercepts the original singles from the Factory ECU and can only bend the fuel output voltage by -minus 20% or positive 20% which is why it has large limitations to larger injectors or highly modded cars, it just can't adjust past 20% of the stock settings.

E manage also doses not control ignition unless you get the ignition upgrade kit for it.. again you can only change + or - 20%

For the price E manage is ok for very very mild modifications but it still doesn’t get around the open loop closed loop problem, so it requires to be re tuned often, certain workshops in Melbourne also push this product purely because they import it for 300$aus and sell it for $900 installed selling a product only because they make lots of money on it which in my eyes is totally wrong !!!! I go for quality over price any day! Never skimp on engine management.

Hope that clears things up...

Regards James

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BLKCRX

Thanks guys.. for ya comments ;)

PS Toda Products RULE ;) if your not using Toda cam’s in your modified engine you should be shoot !


Regards James

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Too bad they won't touch h-series with a 10ft pole lol! :D

Bah, just makes h-series more unique 8) :oops:

-az

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tofu R

how about we hear from some people who have had experiences with hondata ?
anyone on this forum ?

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yes there are a few people on these forums who run hondata and very satisfied with the product.

I was the first car in australia with the s200 unit (shows you how long i have been running the hondata - even before most had heard of it) and have had no problems what so ever with the product or dealing with James.

I am running a pretty stock car at the moment CAI and cat back yet gained roughly 10% power gain with increases in fuel economy as well.

just a few questions - how do i find out what some of the things on the ecu comparison page mean, like launch RPM, open and close loop,full throttle shift??


i know you told me not to believe everything i read but is it true with some of the piggy back ECUs and hondas ecu is that in a weeks time the OEM ECU adjusts itself to compensate for the adjustment that occur due to the piggy back ECU?? so basically your car is running as if there was no piggy back ECU

are all the tuners the same?? ie. if i take my car to croydon and then i bring it to you james will they set up the car the way you would? this might sound like a stupid question because each one does there own thing. but if you (james) are the best then why should i take it anywhere else??

does the hondata ecu come with and in car display??

Hmm simple research on the web will explain those features.. but yeah ill explain them now for everyone.

Launch RPM is a feature that allows you to perfectly launch your car off the line at the correct rpm and with 100% throttle.
It works like this, you preset your launch rpm to lets say 4500 RPM, when you want do launch your car all you do is push your clutch in, place the car in 1st gear and push 100% flat to the floor with the accelerator, in a normal car you would red line the car and damage the engine, with Launch RPM the ECU holds the rev’s perfectly on 4500rpm ( or where you set it ) when your ready to leave the line you simply release the clutch, no gear matching no throttle holding no stuff ups a perfect launch every time ( assuming your launch RPM speed is set / configured for your car) the launch rpm can vary between the weight in the car ie having a passenger or not.

For a video to see how this feature works view click here

http://www.hondata.com/media/launchcontrol.mov

Full throttle shift works once you have left the line, and works especially well for boosted cars, say your in 1st gear and at 9000rpm, you have your foot off the clutch and your foot flat to the floor on the accelerator, in a normal car you would lift your foot off the accelerator push your clutch in, change gears and clutch out, followed by re applying your foot to the accelerator, with full throttle shift you no longer need to take your foot off the accelerator when changing gears. I.e. your in 1st gear at 9000 rpm you have your foot flat to the floor on the accelerator, when your ready to change gears you keep your foot glued to the accelerator i.e. 100% throttle, all you do is clutch in change gears clutch out, without moving your right foot on the accelerator, this takes place for very fast gear changes, and in boosted car’s holds boost between gear changes greatly decreasing your ET time when racing, say bye bye bye to turbo lag !

For a video on how this feature works click here

http://www.hondata.com/media/fullthrottlefeet.mov

Open loop / closed loop in one of the most important aspects of ANY ECU if you can tune / program it. Fully programmable ECU’s with high resolution maps (greater than 600 tuneable points) have a huge matrix of variable tunning points for all engine conditions ie different rpm different load different throttle position etc which means regardless of what the engine is doing it will out put the correctly fuelling and ignition for any given point. When a car is in closed loop mode it reads the ECU 100% all the time, it ignores negative feed back such as information collected from oxygen sensors and provides what ever its configured to provide to the engine.
Open loop is when the ECU uses negative feed back information from all its sensors to adjust the fuel / ignition settings to a target voltage which is typically set within ADR specifications. Normally the Honda ECU will run in open look for 65% throttle of less, or less than 600mb of manifold pressure. This is the key reason why piggy back devices don’t work well with the Honda ECU because the ecu is for ever changing the out put.

If you have the power to control the target open loop voltage, fully tuning it in both open and closed loop mode you can tune a ECU to work perfectly day in day out, but you have the ability to control directly the Honda ECU, only Hondata does this. Period. No other ECU turn’s / controls the open and closed loop modes on the Honda ECU.

Every tuner has slightly different methods of tuning typically thow most professions tune with the same method. The best result is typically spent with a combination of hours on the dyno and also hours of road tuning followed by more dyno tuning, tuning both none vtec and vtec parts of the car for both fuelling and ignition. Simply tuning is no more than expects time, if customers are prepaid to pay the tuning costs anything can be achieved, although some tuners might reach goals faster, tuning is something you learn after 100’s of cars and years of experience, there’s more to tuning that looking at air fuel ratios you must know what certain engines sound like, how they typically need to be tuned for the envrivment you live in, ( for example I find QLD car’s run slightly leaner (0.1 – 0.3%) than Melb cars due to altitude differences across Australia.
Tuning Hondata ver’s other ecu’s such as Motec works very much in the same way, its understanding the software where the key difference is. I personally train all my authorised tuners around Australia, that’s the reason why I only have authorised tuners so tom dick and harry can’t tune unless they prove to me there capable. Who’s a better tuner.. well I would like to think all my tuners are equally as good as my self or each other, although some people have preference due to mainly personally reasons.

Yay onto your last question regarding in screen display, Hondata has a product called Hondaloggor which displays a electronic data either on a laptop, TV ( with pc) or a palm pilot hand held PC. Below is a screen shoot from Hondalogger and the palm software, showing just some of the information that can be viewed / displayed.


http://blkcrx.hondata.com.au/blkcrx/hondata/logger.jpg


http://www.hondata.com/images/palmlog.gif


The end user can control certain functions also from any datalogging device and can record hours of data for investigation.

Hope the above information helps