Synthetic Oil for Euro

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14-07-2005, 07:56 AM
Eurotony

Synthetic Oil for Euro

I have been using Mobil 1 10w-30w fully synthetic oil in the car since new. I'm changing to Castrol formula R 5w-30w from the next service (40k) due to the cost of Mobil 1 (Castrol is $45 for 5 litres, Mobil 1 is $90) Does anyone have any issues with the Castrol product or the Mobil 1 for that matter.

Thanks
Eurotony :)
14-07-2005, 08:54 AM
MIRZ

i m using Castrol Magnatic cost me around $26, though my accord is 10 years old, never ever had any trouble with that.

you can check here for your EURO

http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/cast...e=27&Model=715

HONDA
Accord Euro, 2.4 Litre VTEC Eng. (2003-2005)

CASTROL MAGNATEC
Protection from the moment you turn the key SAE 10W-40, API SL/CF ACEA A3/B3 * Recommended for petrol or diesel cars, 4WDs and light commercials.

CASTROL FORMULA R SYNTHETIC 5W-30
A synthetic 5W-30 viscosity engine oil which enables faster acceleration with excellent engine protection and performance. If offers excellent engine cold start responsiveness and contributes to increased fuel efficiency. Recommended for highly tuned, four cylinder engines and latest technology engines requiring 5W-30 or 10W-30 viscosity. Approved for use by Porsche, VW, Audi and Mercedes-Benz. SAE 5W-30, API SL/CF, ACEA A3/B3/B4.

Capacity 4.2* Litres
14-07-2005, 10:41 AM
yfin

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eurotony

I have been using Mobil 1 10w-30w fully synthetic oil in the car since new. I'm changing to Castrol formula R 5w-30w from the next service (40k) due to the cost of Mobil 1 (Castrol is $45 for 5 litres, Mobil 1 is $90) Does anyone have any issues with the Castrol product or the Mobil 1 for that matter.

Thanks
Eurotony :)

No issue save for not being sure it is 100% synthetic.

If you spend $60 you can get the Motul 8100 which is better.
14-07-2005, 10:57 AM
Eurotony

Thanks Euro 6mt
According to the Castrol Website, Formula R 5w-30w is a fully synthetic oil.
Eurotony
14-07-2005, 11:02 AM
baboo

Agree with yFin, Motul is a much better oil.
14-07-2005, 11:20 AM
Eurotony

What viscosity weight does the Motul come in??
14-07-2005, 11:56 AM
baboo

5W40 for the 8100.
14-07-2005, 12:58 PM
aaronng

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eurotony

Thanks Euro 6mt
According to the Castrol Website, Formula R 5w-30w is a fully synthetic oil.
Eurotony

The site says that 5W30 is a "synthetic", but the more expensive 0W-40 it says "full synthetic".
14-07-2005, 01:25 PM
yfin

I stand corrected - it is full syn. Thought I should email these guys to check as I have read on a few forums that it is not 100% syn.

---------

Thank-you for your email.

All the products in the Castrol Formula R Synthetic range are full synthetic. The 5W-30 is based on a Group iii synthetic (hydrocracked), while the 0w-40 and 10w-60 are based on Group iv (PAO).

Should you require any further information please ring the castrol Technical Helpline on 1300 557 998.

Regards

To:CastrolTechnicalEnquiries@castrol.com.au
14-07-2005, 01:34 PM
Eurotony

Thanks for that :D
14-07-2005, 03:34 PM
ant234

whats the difference between the groups?
14-07-2005, 05:01 PM
aaronng

Synthetics = Oils modified and tailored to possess specific properties. The 2 groups are different in their source. Hydrocracked is produced from the petroleum base, while PAO is produced from petroleum gas (which is lighter and purer than petroleum base)
14-07-2005, 08:36 PM
EURO-R

Motul 300V much better than Mobil 1.
14-07-2005, 09:01 PM
aaronng

Quote:

Originally Posted by EURO-R

Motul 300V much better than Mobil 1.

The 5W-30 and 5W-40 is interesting. Where's the cheapest place to buy Motul from in NSW? AutoOne or Autobarn (these are listed on their site)?
14-07-2005, 11:27 PM
coladuna

I just want to know how you all know which oil is better?
Are you just basing your comment on which one you FEEL better in terms of the engine revving more freely?
what do you exactly mean when you say such and such oil is better?
I've just been using Honda FEO since new and I'm thinking of going synthetic too on my 20,000km service to see if there are any benefits.
I can definitely feel the engine revving not as freely compared to when the car was straight out of a fresh oil change.
14-07-2005, 11:44 PM
aaronng

Quote:

Originally Posted by coladuna

I just want to know how you all know which oil is better?
Are you just basing your comment on which one you FEEL better in terms of the engine revving more freely?
what do you exactly mean when you say such and such oil is better?
I've just been using Honda FEO since new and I'm thinking of going synthetic too on my 20,000km service to see if there are any benefits.
I can definitely feel the engine revving not as freely compared to when the car was straight out of a fresh oil change.

I guess it's from your driving experience. So far I've only used the Honda oil that came with the car, and Magnatec, that the dealer put in after 1000km. I can feel that with Magnatec, the car does not rev as freely eventhough the car was brand new with the Honda FEO.
15-07-2005, 08:36 AM
Eurotony

I have been using full synthetic in my car since the 1k service. The dealer does not reccomend using synthetic but he obviously wants to sell me his oil at a huge mark up. I checked with both Honda & Mobil prior to swapping over & they both said that they had no issue with the change. Have I noticed any significant differences? No not really. The engine does rev very freely & the oil always remains very clean. The fuel consumption around town is what I would expect & on the open road is better than I would expect. I've done over 40k now & the benefits of using synthetic are probably subjective but I feel better knowing that I am using a better oil in the car.
Eurotony
2004 Euro luxury 5auto
15-07-2005, 03:30 PM
V205

Coladuno, how often do you change your oil? Every 5000km?

Quote:

Originally Posted by coladuna

I just want to know how you all know which oil is better?
Are you just basing your comment on which one you FEEL better in terms of the engine revving more freely?
what do you exactly mean when you say such and such oil is better?
I've just been using Honda FEO since new and I'm thinking of going synthetic too on my 20,000km service to see if there are any benefits.
I can definitely feel the engine revving not as freely compared to when the car was straight out of a fresh oil change.
15-07-2005, 04:01 PM
Eurotony

I have been changing oil at every normal service schedule i.e. every 10k. I have heard that some people when using fully synthetic oil extend thier oil changes to 20k. I'm comfortable leaving the changes at 10k for now.

Eurotony :thumbsup:
15-07-2005, 07:56 PM
V205

It also depends how long it takes you to do that 10k.

If it takes you a year to do 10k. It may be a bit long and dino oil will not rev as well by the late stage.

I believe it's good practice to do an oil change every 6 months, in some cases regardless of km. But using dino oil and doing more start/stop driving myself, I would probably say every 5000km or every 6mths, whichever comes first.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eurotony

I have been changing oil at every normal service schedule i.e. every 10k. I have heard that some people when using fully synthetic oil extend thier oil changes to 20k. I'm comfortable leaving the changes at 10k for now.

Eurotony :thumbsup:
15-07-2005, 08:15 PM
aaronng

I'm changing to synthetic next, and I'll still stick to the 6 month schedule.
15-07-2005, 09:00 PM
ant234

i'll probably change to synthetic when i reach 10k...
15-07-2005, 10:20 PM
EuroAccord13

Which is better? Hydrocracked or PAO (What does this PAO mean anyway?)
15-07-2005, 11:07 PM
aaronng

Quote:

Originally Posted by EuroAccord13

Which is better? Hydrocracked or PAO (What does this PAO mean anyway?)

PAO stands for Polyalphaolefins.

Think of it in this way. With hydrocracked, you take a big molecule of petroleum and you break it down to smaller pieces of the size that you want.

With PAO, they take small molecules from petroleum gas and join them with other molecules to for the desired size oil molecule.

Both are good, just different ways to make them. Of course, with PAO, it is more customisable, so you can get oils such as Mobil 1 with 5W-50 while with hydrocracked, you're seeing more of the 5W-30 type. There is no better oil between PAO and hydrocracked, because it is what the car needs that is best. But with PAO, the oil can have a viscosity that is more stable. The example with Mobil1 5W-50, it is viscous at 100 degrees, but when you go down to 0 degrees, the viscosity doesn't increase as much as other oils.
15-07-2005, 11:09 PM
EuroAccord13

Thanks Aaron!

I used to have different oils for Summer and Winter use, but I'm getting lazy now.. I just want one oil for all seasons LOL..

After trying out my Current Castrol Formula R, I might go Motul, if my wallet or GF permits......
16-07-2005, 02:06 AM
V205

I noticed mobil1 10w30 is substantially more expensive than mobil1 5w50.

Are they both PAO?

Quote:

Originally Posted by aaronng

PAO stands for Polyalphaolefins.

Think of it in this way. With hydrocracked, you take a big molecule of petroleum and you break it down to smaller pieces of the size that you want.

With PAO, they take small molecules from petroleum gas and join them with other molecules to for the desired size oil molecule.

Both are good, just different ways to make them. Of course, with PAO, it is more customisable, so you can get oils such as Mobil 1 with 5W-50 while with hydrocracked, you're seeing more of the 5W-30 type. There is no better oil between PAO and hydrocracked, because it is what the car needs that is best. But with PAO, the oil can have a viscosity that is more stable. The example with Mobil1 5W-50, it is viscous at 100 degrees, but when you go down to 0 degrees, the viscosity doesn't increase as much as other oils.
16-07-2005, 01:33 PM
aaronng

Quote:

Originally Posted by V205

I noticed mobil1 10w30 is substantially more expensive than mobil1 5w50.

Are they both PAO?

I haven't seen Mobil1 10W30 being sold here in Sydney at the usual auto places. As far as I remember from before, full synthetics used to be expensive, until now with Castrol's Formula R 5W-30. So I would hazard a guess that the original full synthetics such as Mobil1, Shell Helix Ultra and the others could be PAO, while the newer cheaper full synthetics such as Formula R 5W-30 is hydrocracked.
16-07-2005, 01:42 PM
aaronng

Quote:

Originally Posted by EuroAccord13

Thanks Aaron!

I used to have different oils for Summer and Winter use, but I'm getting lazy now.. I just want one oil for all seasons LOL..

After trying out my Current Castrol Formula R, I might go Motul, if my wallet or GF permits......

Where can I get Motul from? I just bought a bottle of 5W-30 Formula R to try out (was on offer). But after that, I'll give Motul a spin.
16-07-2005, 02:18 PM
EURO-R

Quote:

Originally Posted by aaronng

The 5W-30 and 5W-40 is interesting. Where's the cheapest place to buy Motul from in NSW? AutoOne or Autobarn (these are listed on their site)?

i'm not sure where's the cheapest place to buy Motul, i got 4 litres 300V for 75 bucks from Motoquip in Westfield Burwood, they are 2 litres per each, i got some discount from Motoquip.
17-07-2005, 03:48 PM
EuroAccord13

Made a check through a friend, the 300V costs like 20 bucks a litre... does that sound like a right price?

Also the 8100 5W-40 is like 59 bucks for four litres.....
17-07-2005, 06:23 PM
yfin

Quote:

Originally Posted by EuroAccord13

Made a check through a friend, the 300V costs like 20 bucks a litre... does that sound like a right price?

Also the 8100 5W-40 is like 59 bucks for four litres.....

Nick - $59 is how much I paid for the 8100 - was at a store in perth similar to autobarn. I think that is full price. Not sure where you can get it cheaper - very few places sell the stuff. The 300V is a step up again - $46.99 for 2 litres.

This link below gives you an idea of the RRP prices of Motul products . I am not suggesting this is where you get it from - just give you an idea of full RRP.

http://www.mercurymotorsport.com.au/products/motul/

Perhaps when you are ready to buy try some of these places in the dealer locator

http://www.motul.com.au/dealer_locator/western_au.html
17-07-2005, 06:30 PM
EuroAccord13

Thanks yfin!

If it's 59 bucks for four litres, did you end up buying 2 bottles of it instead?

THANKS!
17-07-2005, 06:34 PM
yfin

Quote:

Originally Posted by EuroAccord13

Thanks yfin!

If it's 59 bucks for four litres, did you end up buying 2 bottles of it instead?

THANKS!

Sorry - I think I made a typo. The 8100 Excess is 5 litres so you only need 1 bottle.

The size of the package makes the 300V very expensive - as you will need more than 4 litres. That said - I am sure it is better than the 8100.
17-07-2005, 06:38 PM
EuroAccord13

Coolness...

the Euro needs like 4.2-4.3 Litres and I was beginning to wonder how I can make do with one bottle LOL...

So I guess the price for the Oil is pretty much the same in Melbourne...

I was told that if I buy more (duh..... :D) it will be cheaper (Works out to about 13 bucks a litre).. But how long will 20Litres last me LOL!
17-07-2005, 07:07 PM
EURO-R

Just wondering if don' t change oil filter, 4 Litres can be enough?
19-07-2005, 01:26 PM
baboo

How come only 4.2 or 4.3 litres?

I normally use about 5 litres ~5.5 litres.
19-07-2005, 03:00 PM
yfin

Quote:

Originally Posted by baboo

How come only 4.2 or 4.3 litres?

I normally use about 5 litres ~5.5 litres.

That doesn't sound right - when my dealer has used my 5 litre bottles I always get the bottle returned with some oil back - at least 1/2 a litre.
19-07-2005, 03:14 PM
EuroAccord13

The car can't use all 5 litres.. Maybe your dealer took kept them :P

I checked the books, it's 4.2 Litres with Oil Filter....
19-07-2005, 04:52 PM
baboo

holy crap where's my 0.8 litre of oil gone to?

I personally saw 5 litre of oil adding through.....strange.
19-07-2005, 04:53 PM
aaronng

Quote:

Originally Posted by baboo

holy crap where's my 0.8 litre of oil gone to?

I personally saw 5 litre of oil adding through.....strange.

I'm sure you tightened the filter and drain plug properly?
19-07-2005, 07:57 PM
Matell

Quote:

Originally Posted by baboo

holy crap where's my 0.8 litre of oil gone to?

I personally saw 5 litre of oil adding through.....strange.

I had my 40,000km service last Friday, and only got about 200ml of oil back. Previous changes has seen about 0.5-0.8L when they give me my bottle back. [Using Mobil 1 10W30 (Gold Bottle)]
19-07-2005, 09:02 PM
aaronx88

Hi,

Is Motul 4100 any good? My Euro has so far travelled 3000km only and I'm due for service next month. I'm reluctant to switch to full synthetic yet. According to motul website, it is semi-synthetic and this should be better than magnatec that my dealer puts in.

http://www.motul.com.au/product_line...4stroke15.html

By the way, is magnatec 10-40 or 10-30? This is because my dealer state that Magnatec FMX is 10-30 but castrol website states that it is 10-40.

P/S AccordEuro13, Do u want a coupon for 20% discount in Autobahn in Victoria? Could be used to buy Motul oil I hope since they are listed as distributor.

Aaron
19-07-2005, 09:19 PM
euro77

Magnatec is 10w40. your dealer might have confused it with Honda's oil which is 10w30.
19-07-2005, 09:22 PM
Chris_F

matell how do u find that mobil 1 oil?

i'm thinking about changing over to it.
19-07-2005, 10:39 PM
EuroAccord13

Quote:

Originally Posted by aaronx88

P/S AccordEuro13, Do u want a coupon for 20% discount in Autobahn in Victoria? Could be used to buy Motul oil I hope since they are listed as distributor.

Aaron

Mmmm... I didn't know AutoBarn is a reseller for this.... Mmmm, if the 20% discount voucher can be used, I could help you guys that are interested get them (But Please PM me about it)

Absolutely No Group Buy Talk in here!!!:D
20-07-2005, 01:24 PM
Eurotony

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matell

I had my 40,000km service last Friday, and only got about 200ml of oil back. Previous changes has seen about 0.5-0.8L when they give me my bottle back. [Using Mobil 1 10W30 (Gold Bottle)]

I also had my 40k service last Friday & had the same, only a little oil back. They tell me it was because they take the rocker covers off to adjust the valve clearances & they manage to drain more oil out than on a standard oil change?? :confused:
20-07-2005, 02:32 PM
V205

From what I've seen, NO honda service centres actually use Honda's FEO 10w30 for their day to day service? They buy big drums of Mobile XHP... Castrol Magnatec..etc and use that for their oil changes.

Think I'll stick with buying the FEO 10w30 and take it to the dealers.

(Note: it was the same when I had my Nissan, they sell bottled 7.5w30 nissan oil at the parts centre but service centre use drums of something else. However, I just bought the Honda FEO 10w30 for them to use on my nissan anyway. Somehow I trust Honda more. :D )
20-07-2005, 02:34 PM
V205

Was it necessary to do the valve clearance at 40,000km? Is it in the service book (even for harsh conditions)?

Did you have valve tapping issue?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eurotony

I also had my 40k service last Friday & had the same, only a little oil back. They tell me it was because they take the rocker covers off to adjust the valve clearances & they manage to drain more oil out than on a standard oil change?? :confused:
20-07-2005, 03:23 PM
aaronng

Quote:

Originally Posted by V205

Was it necessary to do the valve clearance at 40,000km? Is it in the service book (even for harsh conditions)?

Did you have valve tapping issue?

Yes, valve clearance check is in the service manual.
20-07-2005, 08:07 PM
Matell

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris_F

matell how do u find that mobil 1 oil?

i'm thinking about changing over to it.

I haven't had any problems with it in the 20000kms+ that I've been running it. I first noticed that the engine sounded a little harsher, but it felt smoother, and built revs more freely than with the semi dino.

I've never had to top up the oil between services and the engine feels almost as good before the service as it does after. I'm thinking of swapping to Motul 8100 at the 50,000km service (if I haven't moved OS by then) but remember baboo saying ages ago it starts to break down after 5000km+, to which Noel on tsxclub has also made a similar comment. It will probably last the 10,000km unlike 300V which is ideally changed every 5000km. My hard and spirited 170km+ drive a day to work and back will soon let me know how 8100 stands up.

I've also recently considered trying Fuchs full synthetic oil, but haven't been able to find too many positive comments about it. Most seem to put it in the same bracket as Castrol.
20-07-2005, 08:13 PM
dundas

what viscosity oil is best for fuel economy.. and also synthetic, semi, fully, non synthetic?
20-07-2005, 08:57 PM
V205

How do you guys know when the oil starts to break down? Lab test ($$$!) ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matell

I haven't had any problems with it in the 20000kms+ that I've been running it. I first noticed that the engine sounded a little harsher, but it felt smoother, and built revs more freely than with the semi dino.

I've never had to top up the oil between services and the engine feels almost as good before the service as it does after. I'm thinking of swapping to Motul 8100 at the 50,000km service (if I haven't moved OS by then) but remember baboo saying ages ago it starts to break down after 5000km+, to which Noel on tsxclub has also made a similar comment. It will probably last the 10,000km unlike 300V which is ideally changed every 5000km. My hard and spirited 170km+ drive a day to work and back will soon let me know how 8100 stands up.

I've also recently considered trying Fuchs full synthetic oil, but haven't been able to find too many positive comments about it. Most seem to put it in the same bracket as Castrol.
20-07-2005, 10:07 PM
EuroAccord13

Quote:

Originally Posted by dundas

what viscosity oil is best for fuel economy.. and also synthetic, semi, fully, non synthetic?

Taken from the Oil Bible;

Fully Synthetic Characteristics
0W-30 Fuel economy savings
0W-40 Enhances engine performance and power
5W-40 Ensures engine is protected from wear and deposit build-up
Ensures good cold starting and quick circulation in freezing temperatures
Gets to moving parts of the engine quickly

Semi-synthetic Characteristics
5W-30 Better protection
10W-40 Good protection within the first 10 minutes after starting out
15W-40 Roughly three times better at reducing engine wear
Increased oil change intervals - don't need to change it quite so often

Mineral Characteristics
10W-40 Basic protection for a variety of engines
15W-40 Oil needs to be changed more often
21-07-2005, 08:18 AM
Eurotony

Quote:

Originally Posted by V205

Was it necessary to do the valve clearance at 40,000km? Is it in the service book (even for harsh conditions)?

Did you have valve tapping issue?

Ihave had no engine issue's at all. It is part of the 40k service. I have been running Mobil 1 10w 30w since new & as mentioned earlier in the thread cannot say if there is any proven benefits from running synthetic oil. The engine always goes hard & the oil is always clean. So all I can say is so far so good. :wave:
21-07-2005, 08:55 AM
V205

Do you burn any noticable oil between changes?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eurotony

Ihave had no engine issue's at all. It is part of the 40k service. I have been running Mobil 1 10w 30w since new & as mentioned earlier in the thread cannot say if there is any proven benefits from running synthetic oil. The engine always goes hard & the oil is always clean. So all I can say is so far so good. :wave:
21-07-2005, 09:00 AM
Eurotony

Quote:

Originally Posted by V205

Do you burn any noticable oil between changes?

No none at all. I have been really impressed with the lack of oil consumption & the good fuel consumption I'm getting in return. :thumbsup:
21-07-2005, 03:47 PM
Ronin

Yeap. Totally agree. I'm running the new Mobil 10w-30.. Really Really impressed with good fuel consumption, and virtually no oil consumption. And i Redline it quite often. Oil is still clean, not necessarily black, but a golden brown.
21-07-2005, 07:33 PM
Chris_F

Quote:

I haven't had any problems with it in the 20000kms+ that I've been running it. I first noticed that the engine sounded a little harsher, but it felt smoother, and built revs more freely than with the semi dino.

thanks.

Just curious to what would be the better option:
use oem honda oil (taking no risks with warranty) but having it changed ever 5000km (it doesn't seem to last the full 10000km with my driving style/conditions)

option two is using mobil 1 ever 10,000km (possibly infringing on the warranty?)

hm, what to do...
21-07-2005, 07:58 PM
aaronx88

Hi,

Did anyone find out from Honda Australia that using any other oil other than Honda FEO will possibly void the warranty? If no one has, I will give them an email tomorrow.

Aaron
21-07-2005, 07:59 PM
yfin

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ronin

Yeap. Totally agree. I'm running the new Mobil 10w-30.. Really Really impressed with good fuel consumption, and virtually no oil consumption. And i Redline it quite often. Oil is still clean, not necessarily black, but a golden brown.

Funny you mention oil consumption. I have never noticed any oil being used between service - now at 30800kms. I have used synthetic oil since 10,000kms. Despite lots of varied trips and revs - no noticeable consumption on the dip stick at all.

Chris_F = I would relax about using non Honda oil in terms of warranty. As long as it meets or exceeds the Honda specifications it should be fine. I can't see how Honda could claim Mobil or other oil causes damage to the engine if it meets the specifications stated in the manual.
21-07-2005, 08:34 PM
aaronng

Quote:

Originally Posted by aaronx88

Hi,

Did anyone find out from Honda Australia that using any other oil other than Honda FEO will possibly void the warranty? If no one has, I will give them an email tomorrow.

Aaron

Well, the dealer puts in Magnatec for their scheduled service. My car had better be under warranty.
21-07-2005, 08:39 PM
yfin

Quote:

Originally Posted by aaronng

Well, the dealer puts in Magnatec for their scheduled service. My car had better be under warranty.

Relax dude!
21-07-2005, 08:44 PM
Eurotony

Quote:

Originally Posted by aaronx88

Hi,

Did anyone find out from Honda Australia that using any other oil other than Honda FEO will possibly void the warranty? If no one has, I will give them an email tomorrow.

Aaron

I emailed both Honda & Mobil prior to changing to Mobil 1 & I have a written reply from Honda that provided the oil viscosity is the same or better there will be no issue's with warranty. I made sure that I had it in writting before changing. :thumbsup:
21-07-2005, 09:03 PM
V205

Is the Castrol Synth-R 5w30 ok for 1 year or 10,000km? (which ever comes first?)

Some people do 10,000km change on dino oil... but maybe the engine will last 300,000km instead of 500,000.... which doesn't really make a diff if they sell it around 100,000 to 200,000km?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris_F

thanks.

Just curious to what would be the better option:
use oem honda oil (taking no risks with warranty) but having it changed ever 5000km (it doesn't seem to last the full 10000km with my driving style/conditions)

option two is using mobil 1 ever 10,000km (possibly infringing on the warranty?)

hm, what to do...
22-07-2005, 12:30 AM
aaronng

Quote:

Originally Posted by yfin

Relax dude!

Hehe, my Castrol Formula R 5W-30 is sitting in my living room. I am so tempted to change it. My next service is in November.. Worth it to change now? Or should I leave the Magnatec in the engine til Nov?
22-07-2005, 12:34 AM
yfin

Quote:

Originally Posted by aaronng

Hehe, my Castrol Formula R 5W-30 is sitting in my living room. I am so tempted to change it. My next service is in November.. Worth it to change now? Or should I leave the Magnatec in the engine til Nov?

That depends on how many kms you have travelled on the existing oil and with the Euro. It is up to you.
22-07-2005, 01:52 AM
aaronng

Not that much. I did my 6 month service at the end of May with about 7000km, and now I am about to reach 10,000km. I don't like the roughness at higher revs that I get with Magnatec though.
22-07-2005, 08:30 AM
Eurotony

The general rule of thumb with oil changes is 6 months or 10k whichever comes first. There is some thought that using synthetic oil you can double the time frame & km's, but I am happy to do the schedule changes even when using fully synthetic.
There seems to be a general theme running in this thread that when using mineral oil the engine in the Euro tends to run a bit rough at high RPM. I have been using synthetic oil since new & the engine revs out all the time very smoothly.
:wave:
22-07-2005, 11:22 AM
aaronng

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eurotony

The general rule of thumb with oil changes is 6 months or 10k whichever comes first. There is some thought that using synthetic oil you can double the time frame & km's, but I am happy to do the schedule changes even when using fully synthetic.
There seems to be a general theme running in this thread that when using mineral oil the engine in the Euro tends to run a bit rough at high RPM. I have been using synthetic oil since new & the engine revs out all the time very smoothly.
:wave:

It's only the Hondas that have a 6 month /10,000km schedule I think. Holden asks for 12 months / 15000km which I find is too long. Gf's Astra has already failed to start once due to the cylinder flooding with petrol when the car was off. And then the throttle body was gummed.

Yeah, I to will still stick to the 6 month service even with synthetic.
22-07-2005, 02:23 PM
ahcash

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eurotony

I have been using full synthetic in my car since the 1k service. The dealer does not reccomend using synthetic but he obviously wants to sell me his oil at a huge mark up. I checked with both Honda & Mobil prior to swapping over & they both said that they had no issue with the change. Have I noticed any significant differences? No not really. The engine does rev very freely & the oil always remains very clean. The fuel consumption around town is what I would expect & on the open road is better than I would expect. I've done over 40k now & the benefits of using synthetic are probably subjective but I feel better knowing that I am using a better oil in the car.
Eurotony
2004 Euro luxury 5auto

Eurotony, when you said you've checked with Honda, do you mean the dealers or Honda Australia? I've just got a response from Honda Australia and they strongly recommend Honda FEO and they said

"If you encounter a concern with the vehicle due to the use of non genuine products it would not be covered under the New Car Warranty. The details of the Warranty are explained in full on page X of the Owners Service & Warranty Manual. "

WTF !!!! I am getting it clarified..
25-07-2005, 07:41 AM
Eurotony

Quote:

Originally Posted by ahcash

Eurotony, when you said you've checked with Honda, do you mean the dealers or Honda Australia? I've just got a response from Honda Australia and they strongly recommend Honda FEO and they said

"If you encounter a concern with the vehicle due to the use of non genuine products it would not be covered under the New Car Warranty. The details of the Warranty are explained in full on page X of the Owners Service & Warranty Manual. "

WTF !!!! I am getting it clarified..

I checked with Honda Australia & they said all will be Ok using Synthetic of the same grade
25-07-2005, 10:10 AM
dundas

hmmz, Honda told me they don't recommend blowing so much $$ on oil when it requires to be changed so often :)
25-07-2005, 06:45 PM
Chris_F

I read the euro's servicing manual today for oil change intervals etc...

If your driving it hard/extreme conditions they actually recomend that you change it every 5000km.

I also had a look at when they replace the oil and oil filter. It's 10000km for oil as we all probably know but its 20,000km for the oil filter - we have a family friend that is a mechanic and he says its always better to change the filter over when the oil is changed.

Personally i've noticed the engine is noticably harsher and sluggish even when going beyond 4krpm it doesnt pull as hard as at used to at 3k rpm.

From now on I've decided to go with honda oil changing it and the oil filter every 5k km. It might be overkill but i'm hoping that by changing the oil and filter more reguralry I'll be able to get the car back into better form.

A sound plan?
26-07-2005, 12:49 AM
aaronng

I'm using the regular schedule, changing oil and filter every 10000km. The dealer recommended changing the filter as well, and all my previous cars had the filter changed at the same time the engine oil was changed.
26-07-2005, 01:16 PM
Chris_F

interesting my dealer didnt change the filter at the 10,000km :confused::confused: no wonder the engine has felt progressively worse when revving out since...
26-07-2005, 05:17 PM
Eurotony

If you are having your Euro serviced at a Honda dealer, changing the oil filter is part of the scheduled service & it should have been done. I would be asking why it was not done & get him to rectify the situation now. He would have charged you for changing it because it is part of the service time allowance & the service charge is based on how long the service takes to do. :thumbdwn:
26-07-2005, 11:42 PM
Chris_F

thanks for the heads up Eurotony.

In the service scheduele though (as per the servicing manual) it says oil filter to be changed every 20,000km in normal driving conditions but because i dont like to baby the euro i'm insisting on both being hcanged every 5000km
30-07-2005, 12:28 AM
EuroAccord13

The rule is whenever you are getting an oil change... Change the filter too..

Mr. Technical Director of Spoon also advised that the tranny oil be changed as well to keep the gears in top notch....
30-07-2005, 05:10 PM
Chris_F

yea thats what i thought aswell - i even asked that they changed the oil filter and they were like "nah you dont need to". I guess being a bit younger the service department doesn't take me seriously? Kind of frustrating really.

Next time i'm in their im demanding that they do it.

I wouldn't have done any real damage by leaving the filter unchanged for so long i hope
30-07-2005, 05:19 PM
EuroAccord13

Maybe the new Honda oil filters are meant to last longer thus saving some $$$$ but irregardless, I'll still change it at every oil change, I mean, how much more time can that take since I'm already under the car..

P.S-- For those who do their own intermediate services on their Euro, who's with me to agree that the oil filter location sucks!!!!! :D I hate the way they positioned the filter, oil always spill to the suspension links and shafts.... Grrrrr.... My tip is to wrap them up in some old rags...

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