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what sub would sound the best in a small enclosure (small box)????
also
i have an alpine stacker in my car and i have an alpine head unit. i really wanna get a dvd player (moniter) in my car, does it have to be an alpine one to be compatable with my stacker. Is there some adapter i can buy which will allow me to use for example a clarion headunit with my alpine stacker or does the head unit have to be alpine
what size sub???
8" or 10" will be fine, unless you want huge thumping bass. then 2 x 10" or a 12", you dont need anything bigger unless your into competitions. A factor to consider is the quality of the sub you want.
If you want a quality sub then you will need a quality amp so that it will perform at its peek.
afaik, u have to get a same brand stacker as the headunit..Quote:
Originally Posted by samsider
plus, if u want a dvd player.. it'll be better to get a dvd stacker too..
i know im always plugging pioneer products, thats coz i havnt had any experience with anything else mainly, but pioneer have a shallow mount subwoofer in 12 inch if you mean that you are limited for room. But yeah as tRipitaka said, you need to use the same brand. If you go to a good place they would do you a good deal on buying the player AND the stacker.
as i recall the MTX 8000 series subwoofers are designed for small sealed enclosures, very nice sub from experience.
check with your local "professional" car audio store as to which ones are actually designed for small enclosures the MTXs are the only ones i can think of.
schnieder 12inch in a box and all wired is going to cost me $345. for an extra $100 i can get a jl 12inch.
is it worth the extra 100
i have a xplode 400watt amp
this is a fukin nice packagae right here
http://www.strathfield.com/ViewProduct.asp?ProdID=1484
for a small enclosure you have a few choices...
isobarik loading will allow for small enclosure, for more info http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/isobarik/index.html
aperiodic enclosure is another option
other than that you would have to look at the t/s specs of individual subs to find subs that will work well in small enclosures. Boston Acoustics make some subs that work well in small boxes.Quote:
Originally Posted by http://www.subbox.net/store/pages.php?pageid=1
tell us about the goal (SQ or SPL), budget, space available and max box dimension. what amp u will use for the sub?
what is ur front stage? that's the most important thing in a SQ system. if ur front stage lack of mid-bass, u will end up no mid bass even if u have some 10" or 12" subs.
I have an alpine head unit.
6 inch front clarion splits.
4 inch clarion rear speakers.
I got a 4 channel 400 watt xplode running the speakers.
i have a del sol so there isnt much space im going to be putting the sub in the boot(it'll be to messy putting it behind the seats). Space gets limited in the boot when the roof comes off.
Right now with my current set up i have no bass at all its really really ugly. After i get the sub ill be connecting the rear spears to the deck and the sub to the amp.
All i want is some bass not to fussy about brand names or anything, but i still dont wont garbage.
The sub i think will have to be facing up wards because i dont think itll fit standing up. It has to be a 12inch sub i reckon 10s are to punchy
how does ur car look like? if i were u, i would seal the front doors (assume ur woofers r installed on the doors) and c how much bass ur speakers r capable of. 10" move faster and produces more accurate bass. it's good for techno. 12" is louder due to more cone area but it will require more power too. sub facing up, forward or backward does make a difference. maybe build a temp box (or borrow it from someone) and c which way is the best u like.Quote:
Originally Posted by samsider
oh forgot. some sub sounds punchier than the others. a SQ sub can sound punchy too in a small box (i mean the box is smaller than what the factory is recommended).
Debatable at best. I think DD Phil (Aust. Distributer of DD products) summed this up well, so i'll quote him...Quote:
Originally Posted by chan
A properly designed and constructed enclosure will have a far more pronounced effect on a subs performance, than the size of it's diameter.Quote:
Originally Posted by DD Phil on CAA
u missed my point. i am talking about the same model in different sizes. size always matter.Quote:
Originally Posted by micka
subs regardless of size are generally low passed at around 80Hz, sounds below this level sound do not sound "tight".
As long as the cone is sufficently stiff (ie "normal" sized subs, not the 32" clarion) it should reproduce these frequencies well enough, the enclosure will have a great deal of influence on cone control.
Tight bass is a result of higher frequencies played in conjunction to the subs... http://www.installer.com/tech/tight.html
will u willing to pay extra for ppl to build u a box behind the seat? i reckon thats the best way doing it because if you build the box in the boot you wont get much bass when the roof is open then u stored the roof in the boot, i know a few installer done it with 2x10" behind the seat . . . .Quote:
Originally Posted by samsider
yeh i think 2x10s would be the way to go, just need to get another amp too now