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hey guys, i just got my EG hatch, and its only a breeze, so i was wouldnering if anyone nows where abouts i could get a B16a conversion, and turboed at the same place, and also a rough eistimate on how much it would cost. ow and prefreably in brisbane.
Cheers, all :honda:
contact croydon racing development!!!
itl cost prob 6gs for motor and 7 gs to turbo
thats big big money man...take it from me...
ur lookn at a ruff figure of 15K
MY friend Did a b16a turbo conversion together at once in the same car as you (Breeze EG )
Costed him 12k all up with front braking up graded.
and even then u wont be able to run ur turbo to its max, need to rebuild engine to handle high boost.
ill be turboing my b18b 7gs for turbo fully installed, 2500 for cams installed and dialed, 2gs for ECU, 500 boost controler, 100 turbo timer, im hoping to get over 200fwhp with stok compresion and pistons, but il be putting forgies and lowering compresion later i want over 300fwhp
locote, jst get new piston rings for ya block along with the other stuff u listed, n she'll b sweeet to have 200fwhp atw
ive got 220fwhp atw now at 5K rpm - once my internals wear in, 9400rpm ere i come on 25psi lol
u got stok cams in yours??
i have ordered the crower stage 2s
wanna get them in before turbo,
what size turbo u got??
taken urs to 1/4 mile track??
the only thing left to do to me block is cams
turbo = t3/t4 hybrid highflow
runs, nah mate - still wearin mine in - so no 'pushin' as yet... :p
sell that car, and get another car....hehe...
He ask for places in Brisbane and not Sydney AnnaQuote:
Originally Posted by anna1984
hehehehe
go to real tune in clayton,,,
Not trying to side track here, but has anyone mentioned to you that running in a new motor under boost is definately not the preferred method to run in an engine?Quote:
Originally Posted by Q_ball
what manifold are ppl using for their t3/t4 turbos are the 304 stainless and good or go for a cast manifold??
who does cast manifolds here in aus
i have a mate who will be selling his b16b turbo (procrx) was talking to him about it and i think he might do it!again turbo costs $$$ do you AND are you willing to spend?
well thats wat the pros up in newy have advised me to doQuote:
Originally Posted by ProECU
i guess their method is different to urs
Does that mean a new s15 cant be boosted? Doubt that.
there are some people that feel proper break in is basically run it as hard as you can, but generally the consensus(including what is advised by automotive manufactures, who I would certainly consider more of a "pro" then the shop qball got the work done at, as they've proven to be a bit shady in the earlier thread) is to run it at low load/varying rpms for a certain amount of miles before giving it heavy load/high rpm driving... that of course offers the interesting predicament in this situation of how does one tune an engine with the turbo without doing that... it's all very fishy to me
Most people say the rings will set within the first 20k's. Hell everyday on honda-tech people post how there engines are smoking after 5000k when they did a 2k run in. I guess we will see in a month weather on or the hard run-in worked??
when i changed the rings on my ZC i ran less than 4000RPM for 500km and havnt seen any smoke to this day
it would be alot easyer for you to simply buy an already turboed b16 if the above one is realy for sale it mite even be ceaper than the motor and the kit and if you realy want the b16a then you can just buy the head and throw it on the b16b
contact user "filo-accord" he'll tell you who can do the transplant in brisbane. As for the turbo kit.. my advice would be to source all the parts together yourself.. dont get a workshop to source it! you'll save money! To get the kit install and tuned, ill mention bob romano, APC in underwood, mazfix also in underwood or brisbane turbo tune @ the gabba!
to clear up a few things, the shop that did me install, are NOT the guys tuning my car.Quote:
Originally Posted by saxman
they are a separate, independant business that do regular work for some of the quickest rotors in aus
the 'pros' i was refering to in my previous post are the tuners, not the mechanic
that's all fine and dandy, but I still question anyone that would tune a non broken in, turboed engine...Quote:
Originally Posted by Q_ball
generally what one does in a situation like this is have the motor with the new internals installed, drive it around to break it in, then go slap the turbo on and go a tuning
Why do you guys Have such high Costs for engine swaps and Turbos. We have the swaps available and all components to turbocharge a car for half that price. Thats with all turbo components brand new. Im just curious, or is it the labor that is expensive over there? Someone clue me in.Quote:
Originally Posted by locote
Basically, you do not have to do them at seperate times. However i would recommend it as most people are not skilled/organized enough to take on both at once. Often times there is wiring involved among other things that can be left out and then your wondering if the turbo kit is the problem or the engine. So do the swap with whatever internals you want, Then do the turbo kit, set it up on a nice basemap, and go from there, it will already be broken in from your N/A driving.Quote:
Originally Posted by saxman
Hope this helps
Because in australia we have a much smaller population. a much smaller choice of tuners and a much smaller choice of workshops. Ontop of that we dont have any online performance shops, or cheap importers because the demand doesnt call for it. We have nothing to support the basic aftermarket, everything is shipped from japan or the usa, so we get stuff that is marked up buy 3-4 people before it gets to teh consumer. the list goes on and on. its the bain of my existance. ive sourced 2 turbo kits from oversea's now..... much cheaper even after any tax u may pay.Quote:
Originally Posted by LSD Motorsports
to put it into perspective. i was quited recently 2500 by a workshop for a GT3071r, i just imported a GT2871r with a T3 exhaust housing (they dont make em down here) for 1500aud, shipped, with a complete braided oil line setup. That means even if the turbo destroys itself after a year, i can import another centre section and still be ontop.