Air Box Issues

Today i tried taking off the top of my airbox. No frikken chance. The screws are so damn tight they started to warp when i was turning. I dont wana keep trying before i break sumfin. And before any smartass suggests this "YES I WAS TURNING THE RIGHT WAY!" Im just curious to see how it drives wif the top off, plus im waiting on some SRI so its going to have to come off totaly soon anyway.

Has anyone had this issue? What should I do?


TOP OF BOX HAS BEEN REMOVED BUT THE SCREWS BROKE OFF AND STAYED IN THE BOTTOM END IN THE PROCESS. HELP PLEASE!!!

ANYONE GOT ANY OF THESE BRACKETS AND SCREWS LYING AROUND???

try turning the other way . might be stupid. but you never know.. how small was screw driver(or whatever you used). i know that the longer it is.. the easier it is to untighten

airbox lid removal is about the easiest way i can think of to lose 6kw at the wheels.

sounds pretty nice though.


* i think a size 8 socket fits over the screws too...

rofl @ giggs....

but yeah , leverage is your friend :)

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Originally Posted by zen

Today i tried taking off the top of my airbox. No frikken chance. The screws are so damn tight they started to warp when i was turning. I dont wana keep trying before i break sumfin. And before any smartass suggests this "YES I WAS TURNING THE RIGHT WAY!" Im just curious to see how it drives wif the top off, plus im waiting on some SRI so its going to have to come off totaly soon anyway.

Has anyone had this issue? What should I do?

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look carefully, im sure you can use a small spanner to remove the screws

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Originally Posted by nipnip

look carefully, im sure you can use a small spanner to remove the screws

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yer i thought about the spanner but then if theyre still tight i dun wana warp the shape either lol
seriously ill lose that much power??? maybe i should just wait for SRI

by warp.. do u mean bending the actual screw itself? or as it wearing out the grooves of the phillips head screw??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Boost

by warp.. do u mean bending the actual screw itself? or as it wearing out the grooves of the phillips head screw??

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Wearing out the heads of the screws

i lost 6kw from about 4k rpm to redline without an airbox -i did back to back dyno runs to see what it was like, with the fan blowing into an open engine bay, so heat soak wasn't really an issue.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ginganggooly

i lost 6kw from about 4k rpm to redline without an airbox -i did back to back dyno runs to see what it was like, with the fan blowing into an open engine bay, so heat soak wasn't really an issue.

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was that with the standard pod without the box, an aftermarket pod or some SRI ?

standard arm with a k&n filter.

that kind of information makes me rethink SRI :s

ok. Just removed the box.

used the size 8 bit. seemed to work but was making a bit of noise. Checked the standard filter which needs a change but i looked at the bottom part of the box and the screws had broken off and stayed in the bottom end!!

I dun want to drive with the top off for now so ive resorted to ta[ing the box shut using electrical tape!! Hope my SRI comes in soon but in the mean time does anyone know where i can get those brackets from ???

btw i had a drive with the top off. sounded ok but at the end of the day i'd prefer shit not to be broken on my car!

I've been playing around with different setups lately and how I found them on the street. I should mention the resonator has been removed from bumper.

1)Stock filter in box with top off: loud roar and very loud when on VTEC sounds great, a little sluggish off the line at low revs after sitting at lights for a short period due to heat build up under bonnet.

2)Stock filter in box with top on with no pipe connected below airbox: quite audible low end pre vtec getting seemingly quieter as revs rise and no audible transition to VTEC, response was sharper from standstill due to slightly cooler air and with better top end above 7,000rpm.

3)Stock filter replaced with Spoon filter ( thankyou JDM Yard!!!:D ) in box with top off: Overall the stock paper filter muffles the hard edge sound a little, and this is immediately noticable with the Spoon filter as the foam absorbs little noise. Intake is louder from idle all the way to redline with a slight whistle at approx. 30% throttle and a 'difficult to describe' whistle on VTEC. Sounds very angry!:) Improvement in engine response and pick up of revs was immediately noticable, but more so just felt more lively.

4)Spoon filter in airbox with top on, & stock cold air pipe fitted after being removed from resonator box: Very quiet similar to stock, VTEC transition slightly audible. Engine still strong but response is a little dull, probably due to small diameter of stock cold air pipe.

More and more I am realising only a Mugen CAI (or similarly large cold air pipe suitably adapted to stock airbox)will make me completely happy, but $$$.
Hope this helps, but remember this has just been my experience:)

i got half of the box cut to allow air to come in from the 5inch hole on the side, sealed of the whole area put a metal shroud inside the box on the engine side, got rid of the standard pipes that feed air into the box, used poly pipe to feed air from bottom of engine bay, and i removed half of the radiator shroud.
my pod is always cold even after constant high revving, pipes are cooler than they were before i did mod, even the throttle body i cool enough too touch with out burning ur hand,
i got a pic in my profile.
cheap and works

so basically, if u want sound remove the box, if u want performance leave it there???

yep.
after installing a cai, i realised the genious behind the honda engineers.

Honda have spent a lot of money on reasearch and design and i can say that the stock airbox and intake set up is of I) a very high quality and II) very efficient.

imo. leave it stock unless your going to spend the money on getting mugen, injen or comptech and even then for some applications stock will still be better.

Yer i will be after the Injen SRI.

Ok guys thanks for the advice bout CAI etc but I just F***ED sumfin in my car so thats what i need info about. Read my previous post and you'll find out. Im thinking about going to a local Honda wrecker tomorrow and see if i can even pick up the whole air box cheap >>>>>

Thanks

Just bought the brackets and screws that i needed from a Honda wrecker. Cost me 5$ so when the cars gets serviced this weekend my mechanic will put my box back together.

All this shit has totaly made me rethink SRI and CAI. Im planning on getting headers and exhaust in the future so im not going to be able to hear induction noise much anyway. IMO it comes back to Honda installing the best bits to begin with.

lol, i dont know about you guys but i made my own, 3 inch pipe w/ silicone adapters. sits in the front bumper behind the wheel arch, wrapped it in thermo tape as well to keep the heat out, im sucking up ice cubes, lol.

+ only set me back an afternoons work and bout $150!!

i have d.i.y instructions if anyone wants them, PM me.

post em up benny, im sure we would all like to see - maybe submit it in the articles section