i bought 2nd hand jdm dc2typer sway bar
i went to MIDAS
and mechanic said "woundn't fit on my car"
how can i do install sway bar on my car?
am i need any mounts or something?
thanks
Ryong
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i bought 2nd hand jdm dc2typer sway bar
i went to MIDAS
and mechanic said "woundn't fit on my car"
how can i do install sway bar on my car?
am i need any mounts or something?
thanks
Ryong
front or rear????
rear fitted on mine, but mine was a whiteline type r one
as long as you have all the parts incl. bushes, it should fit...
it is rear sway bar
i got all bushes and bolts.
Sounds like the mechanic could not work out how to fit it...
Or you require the lower control arms to suit this swaybar, for it to fit properly...
here is what mine looked like,
http://members.iinet.net.au/~joannep...iRparts001.jpg
i have DA6 rear LCA's though.
maybe the LCA's are the problem?
Yea I say its the LCA as well.
Cant confirm but im pretty sure you will need the EG6/ITR LCA to fit it. Tink, those DA6? They look very very similar to ITR/EG6 from what I can see. Are they the same?
they are 1990 Xsi rear LCA's
tehy have slightly more "wheel rate" than the DC2 ones, but i dont care...
escape27 -
just foud this pic, which shows the Whiteline rear sway abr on a GSi
so it does fit the cast rear LCA's :)
http://members.iinet.net.au/~joannep.../rearbar04.jpg
DA6 LCA vs DC2 (all JDM)
http://members.shaw.ca/m_sasso/lca1.jpg
i installed itr LCA and itr suspention on my car
is it different between jdm itr rear sway bar and audm itr sway bar?
oh, then it should fit fine ;)
can you put it on yourself?
*installation is the reverse of removal*
but make sure you tighten all the bolts with the car flat on the ground, not jacked up...
i tried last night
but the bolt is too tight
i couldnt loose the bolt
how can i do ?
am i go other mechanic shop?
for sure!Quote:
Originally Posted by escape27
they will have air tools and a hoist :thumbsup:
ok i will
thank you very much for ur help - tinkerbell
Ryong
I have always been under the impression that in terms of distance between the endlink holes on the LCA's (along the axis of rear track) was the same for all DA and DC including Type-R.
Obviously they will not always be exactally the same with people lowering different ammounts, but it will always be similar enough to fit.
I'm running a DC2 vti-r bar on my da, with all DA suspension. And since the Type-R stock bar fits well on a DA, i'd say that a Type-R bar will fit on a Vti-R.
today i installed rear sway bar my self.
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/water...bar_01-med.jpg
I have just installed itr springs and shocks on my vtir as well as itr lca's. I'm told that if I upgrade to a itr sway bars I will need to replace the brackets with stronger items to prevent it tearing out of the chassis.
Can anyone shed any light on this?
So far Yonas from JDM yard has recommended a bracket kit from the US, which I think I'll go for.
Cheers
better get some re-inforcement for the subframe... otherwise you'll get some nice holes in it like i did :)
Reinforcement such as.....?Quote:
Originally Posted by ginganggooly
Beaks kit???Quote:
Originally Posted by T-onedc2
beaks or bsq are both okay from what i've read...
it looks like it'd be farily simple to copy the design of the bsq kit.
anyone know on the cost and availability of the beaks kit here in australia?
http://www.geocities.com/bretq/mounting_kit.html thats the link for the BSQ kit. It might be expensive for what it is. But it's still alot cheaper than the beaks kit. You can get the whiteline reinforcement kit, which also comes with a lower tie bar
There is another subframe re-inforcement from A-Spec. I just received mine the other day, so I haven't had a chance to try it yet. But it looks good :thumbsup:
http://a-spec-racing.com/
I did some research into subframe re-inforcements, and this one was the only one where I heard nothing but good things. The others like beaks had many good things said about them, but every now and then there was something negative about them still getting tearout
each honda has its different flaws with rear subframe
dc2 teg - pull out of the bolt holes
ek sikvik - pull out of bolt holes and frame breakage
em1 (EK4?)- Holes have been reenforced.. but the whoel subframe gets ripped apart..
We can all conculde that reinforcement is needed ASAP - im sure even a slight diagonal movement up a driveway could shear that subframe in two :(
IF you want to source some mounts locally, maybe try whiteline reinforcement shown above from whilteine -
http://members.iinet.net.au/~joannep.../rearbar04.jpg
should bolt on and accept your ITR swaybar nps.
yeah, was trying to find the re-enforcement product on the whiteline.com.au website, but cant...
i think it was around 70 bucks last time i was discussing it...
yup it comes bundled with other swaybar setups - but im 95% sure you can simply buy it seperate - should >$100 and IMO looks far better than any beaks kit or similar:cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by tinkerbell
is that a new design or somthing..
doesnt the tie bar normally tie up with the control arm bolt?S
Yes usually - but the whiteline tiebar can only be used with the whiteline reinforcement. :thumbsup: ( it bolts onto the lower part , next to the LCA bolt)Quote:
Originally Posted by BlitZ
bumping up an old thread here but i thought its better to ask here than create a new one as its relating to whats being discussed.
Are there any differences between the JDM ITR Rear LCA's and the AUDM ITR Rear LCA's??
AUDM ones are easier to get...
i.e. they are the same.
Ok thanks tinkerbell, so a JDM ITR Rear Sway Bar will bolt upto AUDM ITR Rear LCA's no problem along with re-inforcement of course?
Just trying to work out whether im better off with JDM / AUDM Rear LCA's, thats all :D
i dont hink the JDM chassis is re-inforced more than the AUDM one?
ditto - but isnt the "JDM" rear swaybar a 23mm item as in compared to the AUDM at 22mm ?Quote:
Originally Posted by tinkerbell
yes, but isnt the 96 JDM ITR also 22mm?
which is the better way to go for an EG.. 22mm / 23mm?
whichever is cheapest basically.
you wont notice a difference between them.
Im still sure a DC2R swaybar whether 22 or 23mm and its less forgiving design will rip thru a EG subframe in only a matter of time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul1985
IMO save the hassle of the EG subframe and just get a whiteline kit with reinforcement + tiebar ~
yeah, you need re-inforcement on an EG,
sorry for implying otherwise ;)
bring up an old topic :] For a DC2 if I was to get any swaybar bigger than stock would that mean I would need to reinforce the subframe? How about the ITR front sway bar? Is that just bolt on?
JDM DC2R '96 spec, AUDM DC2R & DC2 all have 24mm front sway bar. perhaps the only difference may be the stiffness of the rubber bushes used. If a larger than about 18mm rear sway bar is used you should fit a reinforcement kit. Stock is 14mm.Quote:
Originally Posted by zorrt
if you get a type r rear sway. You can buy beaks reinforcement kit, or you can make your own or buy one from brett's gsr site.Quote:
Originally Posted by zorrt
ITR front sway bar is same thickness as DC2 vtir, so no need to change
http://integramod.tripod.com/perform/suspension.html for more information