DC2R Laggin

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29-11-2005, 11:06 PM
dc2typ35r

DC2R Laggin

Ive had this problem for a couple of weeks now. From 2000 to 3000 RPM my car doesnt want to go anywhere, it stutters. Ive just also changed my fuel filter recently and found it to be really dirty. Could my injectors be dirty as well? After installing a new Comptech Air Intake today Ive noticed that its more evident. After 4000 RPM though it goes good. The problem comes and goes.

I usually run on Optimax, just tried the new Extreme and can smell the difference when its burning off. What could be the problem? This is annoying the shit out of me, any ideas much appreciated.
29-11-2005, 11:14 PM
|N|

Quote:

Originally Posted by dc2typ35r

Ive had this problem for a couple of weeks now. From 2000 to 3000 RPM my car doesnt want to go anywhere, it stutters. Ive just also changed my fuel filter recently and found it to be really dirty. Could my injectors be dirty as well? After installing a new Comptech Air Intake today Ive noticed that its more evident. After 4000 RPM though it goes good. The problem comes and goes.

I usually run on Optimax, just tried the new Extreme and can smell the difference when its burning off. What could be the problem? This is annoying the shit out of me, any ideas much appreciated.

dun use the new extreme... as its not good for hondas made b4 04.. someone correct me if i m wrong...

plus u got a new intake and bein able to suck air more freely ll also reduce low end a lil bit.... someone belt me if i m wrong....

*puts on belt prove suit*
30-11-2005, 12:18 AM
bennjamin

reply only if u want to help out or suggest something :)

BTW ~ timing out of wack ? clutch is worn ?!
30-11-2005, 08:03 AM
type one

2-3rpm? hmm could be signs of a wearing clutch but not likely...

dirty injectors? how many k's? you changed your fuel filter but no engine oil at the same time?

get a mechanic to check it out... hard to diagnose on the net :)
30-11-2005, 08:20 AM
BlitZ

look for loose vacum hose.. did u plug the sensor for the intake back in properly...

check the sensor on the intake ram, vacum hoses ....

it could also be a worn clutch.. kane it and see if it holds....

i dont think your injectors would do that to u.. or or fuel filter..

injectors would make it hard to start........ once its pumping its generally fine
30-11-2005, 09:39 AM
dc2typ35r

thanks for suggestions guys

oil filter, oil changed every 5k...my clutch should be ok only done 62k and not very hard on it

the hose (vacuum hose?) that goes into the intake doesnt appear to go all the way into the intake

ill wack on my stockie and see how i go
30-11-2005, 10:00 AM
jooboo

check ur sparkplugs dude
30-11-2005, 09:06 PM
bennyBear

^^^ ditto, look for moistness on the end of you plugs
01-12-2005, 08:54 AM
ITRBoI

when was the last time you change your engine oil??? it could be the caused. Cuase i forgot to change my oil before and vtec was lagging, so it could be the same problem with not chaning oil
01-12-2005, 08:56 AM
destrukshn

check your plugs and leads.
01-12-2005, 06:32 PM
00dc2

i have the same problem.. it comes and goes..

but yeah.. i descrive it as hestiation.. like when you change gears when driving normally when the car is coldish.. you put your foot down and for a split second the engine does nothing.. then it goes.. but if you rev it up to 4000 or more its fine..

engine oil changed every 5000km. Very careful driver so dont think its the clutch.. cars done 90000km total

could it be the plugs not being warm or something.. car is 100% stock..
01-12-2005, 08:02 PM
type one

Quote:

Originally Posted by bennyBear

^^^ ditto, look for moistness on the end of you plugs

if there is moistness at the end of your plugs you car will splutter as if it is choking... IMO not the cause of this issue...
01-12-2005, 09:40 PM
dc2typ35r

ive never changed my plugs before but ill check em
they good for 100000 right?

i always let my car warm up...problem still occurs...
oil changed just 2k ago
13-12-2005, 01:53 AM
dc2typ35r

Problem solved...

checked my spark plugs only firing on 3 plugs. Took apart the distributor and it was basically fried with cracked plastic in some parts. The spinning wheel in the distributor was frayed! Anyone know what the cause of this could be? Replaced distributor at a cost of $120.

Problem fixed hopefully.
13-12-2005, 02:32 AM
yourfather

just wear an tear, my DC2 had a ****ty dizzy.

had to replace it, tho I got ripped off, 120 is a good price.

when it comes to the engine and firing and etc, its best to do precautionary maintenance.

:)

gl with the car in the future
16-12-2005, 11:37 AM
iamhappy46

Replace your spark plugs too, regular plugs are good for about 20,000K's
Platinum & iridium's last longer but more expensive.

$20 for a set of plugs and should improve things for your noticeably
16-12-2005, 01:32 PM
redliner

From experience, i been using optimax for about a yr and suddenly my car start feeling sluggish, acceleration felt bad (like it doesnt want to go) after changing to BP ultimate car back to normal. maybe its jsut that, just give a diffrent fuel a try wont, hurt.
16-12-2005, 05:46 PM
Da1nONLY

from my experience.. optimax rules! very responsive fuel =P
17-01-2006, 10:17 PM
evo201

Quote:

Originally Posted by |N|

dun use the new extreme... as its not good for hondas made b4 04.. someone correct me if i m wrong...

plus u got a new intake and bein able to suck air more freely ll also reduce low end a lil bit.... someone belt me if i m wrong....

*puts on belt prove suit*

belt you are wrong irun it in my dc2r every since it was realesed. we have run my car on the dyno at work and the car runs better under load revs faster and makes 3hp more at the wheels
17-01-2006, 10:47 PM
iamhappy46

Honda have released a press statement saying that Shell 100 is not suitable for ANY Honda made before 2004. Check the Honda website and see for yourself...

Sure it runs better but is the motor going to last... ;)
18-01-2006, 12:21 AM
aaronng

Vortex98, Mobil 8000 and Ultimate are better than Optimax.

Optimax extreme, I wouldn't bother on a N/A engine. Only for turbo would the benefits be worth the price.
18-01-2006, 12:40 AM
dc2typ35r

they are all the same

its all in the head :confused:
19-01-2006, 12:54 PM
Bludger

i experience this "HESITATION" too on occasion.
i think you should all forget about it cos its hothing wrong with the car, just the way it is
20-01-2006, 08:17 AM
b18c7

Cause of Cracked dist on ur dc2r

Dude your Dizzy may have cracked due to several reasons, i did mine when i washed and detailed the engine bay, and it (dist) cracked when the engine bay heated up with water on or in the dist, it was sparking and making the engine do crazy sh*%t, Clean ur injectors and put new plugs in too, she'll be sweet mate.
21-01-2006, 01:31 PM
Bludger

ok, i got a better explanation.
when the TEG is on low revs, the throttle butterfly or whatever its called it is called, is closed or open very slightly.
so therefor hardly any air is passing through there to feed the cylinders.
when the engine is going spastic, at 8000rpm, then its got a constant fast flow of air going through the throttle body.
NOWWWWWWW
to get from zero to max flow will obviously take a lil, if not very lil bit of time for the air to accelerate. That very little bit of time is what i think is LAG that you experience.
when you floor the gas, the cpu gives full fuel, but the air has gotto play catchup and accelerate to meet the demands of the fuel.
This is just my oppinion, based on my limmited mechanical and physics knowledge.
please correct me if i'm wrong, cos i like to learnas i like to learn :D:D:D
21-01-2006, 01:56 PM
iamhappy46

Bludger: The ECU will not give full fuel because it knows hows how many RPM the motor is spinning at, the Throttle Position Sensor and Manifold Air Pressure(MAP)Sensor will be giving the ECU signals in contradiction to your explanation.

The air does not 'accelerate' that fast, as the engine can only use so much air as the RPM rises. This obviously does take time... The MAP sensor allows the ECU to determine the volume of air being ingested by the motor based on the RPM of the motor.

The problem here was actually spark plugs and distributor, causing insufficient combustion of the air:fuel mix and basically making it a pig to drive. Essentially, it was running at <75% of its normal power output. Having a 'dead' cylinder actually reduces engine power by more than 25% as the engine has to exert energy to rotate a non firing piston.

If the motor gave full fuel just above idle, the motor would either not accelerate or stall.
21-01-2006, 02:44 PM
todaek9

Check all your sensor...is all working properly?
21-01-2006, 03:05 PM
Bludger

Quote:

Originally Posted by iamhappy46

Bludger: The ECU will not give full fuel because it knows hows how many RPM the motor is spinning at, the Throttle Position Sensor and Manifold Air Pressure(MAP)Sensor will be giving the ECU signals in contradiction to your explanation.

The air does not 'accelerate' that fast, as the engine can only use so much air as the RPM rises. This obviously does take time... The MAP sensor allows the ECU to determine the volume of air being ingested by the motor based on the RPM of the motor.

The problem here was actually spark plugs and distributor, causing insufficient combustion of the air:fuel mix and basically making it a pig to drive. Essentially, it was running at <75% of its normal power output. Having a 'dead' cylinder actually reduces engine power by more than 25% as the engine has to exert energy to rotate a non firing piston.

If the motor gave full fuel just above idle, the motor would either not accelerate or stall.

soooo, when my car "HESITATES" you're sugesting that i have something wrong with the spark (plugs, leads, dizzy, coil, batterry)?
Why does it only "HESITATE" at low RPM [<2500RPM]
22-01-2006, 11:18 AM
dc2typ35r

Quote:

Originally Posted by iamhappy46

The problem here was actually spark plugs and distributor, causing insufficient combustion of the air:fuel mix and basically making it a pig to drive. Essentially, it was running at <75% of its normal power output. Having a 'dead' cylinder actually reduces engine power by more than 25% as the engine has to exert energy to rotate a non firing piston.

This was exactly the problem, only distributor actually. Just open up your distributor and see if its fried or not.
24-01-2006, 09:19 AM
iamhappy46

Bludger: The ECU is FULLY capable of removing ANY hesitation from your engine as long as the engine is serviced and maintained(except for the dip in power at VTEC switch point)

I suggest you check your spark plugs, leads and dizzy but it could be anything.