[Euro] Best Mods

Thought i'd start a thread for people to share ideas on general modification of the euro. Not neccesarily limited to power gaining mods like aftermarket intakes and the likes - let us know what you've been happy with, what mods you think were/would be worthwhile and the rough price that these mods would cost.

I've found suspension mods to be worthwhile - they really enhance the sporty character of the car (TEIN SS coilovers would have to be my favourite mod so far). Price: roughly 2.5k for coilovers/camber kit/ various bracing bars and installation.

An essential mod lookwise is an upgrade of the stock 16" wheels (they simply look to small and don't exactly allow for fitment of the stickiest rubber). Price: roughly 1.5k (decent lightweight 17's and eagle f1 tyres) after trade in/selling of stock rims and tyres.

Next mod on my list is lightweight flywheel and sports organic clutch - i'll be sure to let everyone know it i think it's worthwhile once i get installed (hopefully sometime before christmas)

Here's a list of mods that I have gathered. From various different sources. Remember, these are all approximate pricings.


Suspension
- Tein SS Coilovers = $1500
- Tein Type Flex Coilovers = $2200
- Koni Yellow Adjustables = $1000
- Eibach Prokit Springs = $580
- Spoon Springs = $480
- Tanabe Coilovers = $1600
- D2 Coilovers = $1650
- Mugen SS Coilovers = $3500
- Zeal Function Coilovers = $3400
- Cusco Front Strut Bar = $250
- Spoon CL7 Front Strut Bar = $295
- Comptech Titanium Strut Bar = $350
- Neuspeed Front Strut Bar = $300
- FEELS Front Strut Bar = $590
- Cusco V1 Lower Arm Bar = $150
- Cusco V2 Lower Arm Bar = $ 200
- Ingalls Rear Camber Kit = $400
- Whiteline 19mm Rear Sway Bar = $220
- Comptech 22mm Rear Sway Bar = $360
- Neuspeed 19mm Rear Sway Bar = $410
- Neuspeed 27mm Rear Sway Bar = $490


Exhausts
- Greddy EVO2 Exhaust = $1900
- Greddy SP2 Exhaust = $1700
- Comptech Stainless Exhaust = $1750
- Fujitsubo Legalis R Exhaust = $1800
- DC Sports Exhaust = $1600
- Tanabe Super Medallion Hyper Spec Exhaust = $1500
- Tanabe Medallion Touring = $1800
- Skunk2 Exhaust = $1500


Brakes
- Spoon Calipers + Brake pads = $3300
- ENDLESS 4pot Calipers + ENDLESS Brakepads = $3000
- Brembo GRAN TURISMO Front Brake Kit = $5500
- Comptech 13" Front Brake Kit = $3250
- Comptech 12.7" Rear Brake Kit = $1900
- StopTech 4 Piston Front Brake Kit = $2200
- StopTech 2 Piston Rear Brake Kit = $4650


Intakes
- Comptech Icebox = $280
- K&N Typhoon CAI = $340
- Injen CAI RD Series = $390
- Injen CAI MR Series = $420
- Gruppe M Intake = $700
- Fujita CAI = $260
- AEM SRI = $200
- HKS Super Megaflow = $230


Engine/Drivetrain
- Comptech Supercharger (6MT Models 03-05) = $7200
- Comptech Supercharger (5AT Models 03-05) = $7200
- Toda Extractors = $1800
- Maxim Works Extractors = $2300
- D2 Ceramic 4-2-1 Extractors = $700
- Comptech 4-2-1 Extractors = $1100
- Exedy Hyper Clutch = $1800
- Lightened Flywheel = $1500
- Comptech Flywheel = $900
- Comptech Short Shifter = $50
- JDM DC5R LSD = ?
- Unorthodox Racing Pulley Set = $500


Interior
- LED Bulb replacements = $50
- Silver OEM Trim from HONDA (7 piece) = $600
- Euro R Sports Pedals = $300
- Euro R Floormats = $400


Exterior
- Mugen Bodykit Genuine (03-05 Front Bar Replacement) = $4500 (prepainted)
- Mugen Bodykit Genuine (03-05 Front Lip) = $4000 (prepainted)
- Mugen Bodykit Genuine (06+ Front Bar Replacement) = $5500 (prepainted)
- Mugen Bodykit Genuine (06+ Front Lip) = $5100 (prepainted)
- Euro R Bodykit Genuine (03-05) = $3100 (prepainted)
- Euro R Bodykit Genuine (06+) = $3800 (prepainted)
- Kenstyle Bodykit Genuine = $4200
- JP Vizage Bodykit Genuine = $2200

- Mugen Bodykit Replica (03-05 Front Bar Replacement)= $1500
- Euro R Bodykit Replica (03-05) = $1500
- Luckystar Bodykit Replica = $1000
- Kenstyle Bodykit Replica = $1700
- Modulo Bodykit Replica = $2000

- Spoon Lip Spoiler = $400
- Mugen Wing Genuine (03-05) = $450
- Mugen Wing Genuine (06+) = $780
- Mugen Wing Replica (03-05) = $150
- M3 Lip Spoiler = $80


Miscellaneous
- Carbon Fibre Euro Bonnet (wet) = $850
- Apexi VAFC2 Installed + Tuned = $600
- Mugen Reservoir Cover = $33
- Mugen Oil Cap = $100
- Mugen Radiator Cap = $50
- Mugen Fan switch = $90
- Mugen Thermostat = $100
- Spoon Short Shifter = ?
- Spoon Reservoir Cover = $25
- Spoon Oil Cap = $90
- Spoon Radiator Cap = $50
- Euro R Rear Badge = $45
- Euro R Hood Trim = $95 (prepainted)
- Euro R Gearknob = $65

stephen your a legend man! that was a great post :thumbsup::thumbsup: mods you need to give him some rep points for that.

Some of the prices will obviously vary but most of those seem pretty spot on.

What's your favourite mod so far btw man? Mugen full kit?

hahahah at the moment, yeah it has to be my bodykit (atm its the most expensive mod on my car, next to the injen CAI) :D

Yep - given Stephen rep points for that.
My favourite performance mod is the whiteline rear sway bar.

For looks (though it does have some performance benefits)- best mod is sports suspension and rims - car looks so much better lowered with nice rims.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by yfin

For looks (though it does have some performance benefits)- best mod is sports suspension and rims - car looks so much better lowered with nice rims.

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definitely have to agree with that :thumbsup:

yes. rims and suspension drop looks HAWT, even with no kit
i guess the kit is the extra wank factor
if u look at the prices, its pretty pricey for all them mods on the euro....but i guess most honda's are like this.
nissan parts would be a hell of a lot cheaper.
im just drooling at all those mods atm.....

just wondering has any1 got pictures of euro with upgraded brake system (Brembo, Spoon, endless,etc) ?

cheers

http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/attach...achmentid=1996
spoon calipers!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stephen8512

Here's a list of mods that I have gathered. From various different sources. Remember, these are all approximate pricings.


Suspension
- Tein SS Coilovers = $1500
- Tein Type Flex Coilovers = $2200
- Tein EDFC = $500
- Koni Yellow Adjustables = $1000
- Eibach Prokit Springs = $580
- Tanabe Coilovers = $1600
- D2 Coilovers = $1650
- Cusco Front Strut Bar = $250
- Cusco V1 Lower Arm Bar = $150
- Cusco V2 Lower Arm Bar = $ 200
- Ingalls Rear Camber Kit = $400
- Whiteline Rear Sway Bar = $220
- Spoon rear camber kit = $200


Exhaust
- Greddy EVO2 Exhaust = $1900 shipped from USA
= $1350 EBay
- Fujitsubo Exhaust = $1600
- Maxim Works Extractors = $2300
- D2 Extractors = $700
- 5 Zigen Proracer single exhaust = $1200

Brakes
- Spoon Calipers + Brake pads = $3300
- ENDLESS 4pot Calipers + ENDLESS Brakepads = $3000


Intakes
- Comptech Icebox = $280 shipped from USA
- K&N Typhoon CAI = $340
- Injen CAI = $390 shipped from USA


Drivetrain
- Exedy Hyper Clutch (comes with flywheel)= $1650
- Lightened Flywheel = $400
- Comptech Short Shifter = $50
- Spoon Short Shifter = $400


Interior
- LED Bulb replacements = $50
- Silver OEM Trim from HONDA (7 piece) = $600
- Euro R Sports Pedals = $300
- Euro R Floormats = $400


Exterior
- Luckystar Bodykit Replica = $1000
- Mugen Bodykit Replica = $1500
- Euro R Bodykit Replica = $1500
- Kenstyle Bodykit Replica = $1700
- Mugen Bodykit Genuine = $4500 (prepainted)
- Euro R Bodykit Genuine = $3100 (prepainted)
- Kenstyle Bodykit Genuine = $3800
- JP Vizage Bodykit = $1800
- Modulo Bodykit Replica = $2000
- Mugen grille = $390

Miscellaneous
- Apexi VAFC2 Installed + Tuned = $600
- Mugen Reservoir Cover = $33
- Mugen Oil Cap = $100
- Mugen Radiator Cap = $50
- Mugen Fan switch = $90
- Mugen Thermostat = $140
- Spoon Reservoir Cover = $25
- Spoon Oil Cap = $90
- Spoon Radiator Cap = $50
- Euro R Rear Badge = $45
- Euro R Hood Trim = $95 (prepainted)
- Euro R Gearknob = $65

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added a few items and amended a few prices!
great work stephen!

btw, i'm able to get a pair of used spoon calipers with pads for ~$1750 landed in sydney. Im thought about getting them for myself but i figured i'll go for other mods. I think its quite a bargain, if anyone's interested, pm me, i see if i can get them for you.

ps. mods, im not a trader or anything, just trying to recommend a bargain.
if its deemed illegal, pls delete post. cheers

Would anyone have any prices on Honda rims, Type R for example? And where do you get them from? Is it via Jap parts importers or Honda etc.?

Chosen One, JDM DC5R rims in white start from 1499.00 (these are used quality)
Brand new from factory ur looking at abotu 2K plus additional for shipping fees

Cheers Stephen.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stephen8512

yes. rims and suspension drop looks HAWT, even with no kit
i guess the kit is the extra wank factor
if u look at the prices, its pretty pricey for all them mods on the euro....but i guess most honda's are like this.
nissan parts would be a hell of a lot cheaper.
im just drooling at all those mods atm.....

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Im with Stephen, big rims and dropped is HOT!!!!
Personally I prefer the look of no kit but I dont mind the Euro R kit.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ZYL11A

Im with Stephen, big rims and dropped is HOT!!!!
Personally I prefer the look of no kit but I dont mind the Euro R kit.

---

17"-18" is more than enough for me on a euro but i have to admit euros that have been slammed without a bodykit do look smooth and are really growing on me :thumbsup:.

to me the oem kit seems to highlight the "boxyness"/sharp edged styling of the euro whereas without a kit the cars smoother/more elegant lines become more prominant.

oem kit looking sharp :cool::

http://img474.imageshack.us/img474/6...ctov0092hg.jpg

non kitted euro with mugen grill lookin smooth :cool::

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/3845/dscn02177rl.jpg

What are those wheels on the non-kitted car?
Both great looking cars (non-kit gets my vote). Almost a bit HSV'ish aren't they?

non kit rims = advan kreuzer X. these will set u back about 3-4K for just the bare rims.
LOC-888 had it on his euro and thats the price i got fmor him when he bought it form IS MOTORACING here in sydney.
ferrarista has the replica of them. the KUNZITE seriesX's But remember, these ADVANS are genuine and are a lot lighter in weight than the KUNZITE replicas.

Holy sh1t, $3-4k just for the rims.
Yep I know the two cars and wheels you are talking about. Both look sweet IMO.
Is Kunzite the brand or name of the wheel? I googled Kunzite and learnt a lot about gem stones and jewelry...lol

chosen_one, the kunzites are made by advanti i think. but yea those style wheels really do seem to suit the euro.

imo all it needs is wheels and lowering, other than that its perfect.

Has anyone actually got a Lightened flywheel? I reckon this would be the best bang for buck m od. I noticed the overun from the heavy flywheel when I test drove the euro. Now it annoys me a bit tha ive had my car for a bit.

If its about $400, wheer do I get one and how much/hard to install?

Comments on performance?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Suntzu

Has anyone actually got a Lightened flywheel? I reckon this would be the best bang for buck m od. I noticed the overun from the heavy flywheel when I test drove the euro. Now it annoys me a bit tha ive had my car for a bit.

If its about $400, wheer do I get one and how much/hard to install?

Comments on performance?

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I posted up some links to comments about performance re lightened flywheels regarding the integras. I too would like to hear some comments about people with this on the Euro.

The cost of the flywheel is not huge - it is the labour that can be expensive. Comptech USA says it is a 9 hour job for the TSX! If you are installing a flywheel you may as well install a heavy duty clutch at the same time.

Hi Suntzu, not many people have done this mod... but i'm defintiely with you on this! so much so im having a jdm lightweight flywheel fitted within the next week

I've gone for the one on the jdm dc5R which weighs in at 4.7kg (dont wana go to light incase it affects driveability). This part should cost around $400-450 but installation is the big issue. It costs nearly as much at about 300-350 (and this is a fairly cheap good price). I think thats why a lot of ppl haven't done it yet. Personally i decided to get a flywheel and clutch at the same time to bump some of the installation cost (my clutch probably had some life left in it but it was getin a bit to soft for my liking).

These parts should be on next week - i'll do up an impressions thread as i did with the mugen exhaust with my impressions of this mod.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by yfin

I posted up some links to comments about performance re lightened flywheels regarding the integras. I too would like to hear some comments about people with this on the Euro.

The cost of the flywheel is not huge - it is the labour that can be expensive. Comptech USA says it is a 9 hour job for the TSX! If you are installing a flywheel you may as well install a heavy duty clutch at the same time.

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yfin - ill post up my full impressions as soon as i get this done sometime next week :thumbsup: i really do think it'll make a big difference - i think the euro flywheel is very heavy (mabe approaching 9kg) half the weight should work wonders for acceleration

installation is defintiely where this mod gets you... but really at a similar price to a cat back exhaust installed, i think it has the potential to offer a lot more gains

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chris_F

yfin - ill post up my full impressions as soon as i get this done sometime next week :thumbsup: i really do think it'll make a big difference - i think the euro flywheel is very heavy (mabe approaching 9kg) half the weight should work wonders for acceleration

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Wow - I am excited about this - look forward to your review. Removing 5kg from the flywheel is the equivalent of removing 195kg of kerb mass in 1st gear, 60kg in 2nd gear:

http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/flywheel.htm

Quote:

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Wow - I am excited about this - look forward to your review. Removing 5kg from the flywheel is the equivalent of removing 195kg of kerb mass in 1st gear, 60kg in 2nd gear:

http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/flywheel.htm

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thanks for the link

195kg!? holy crap... 1st gear is gonna be fun :D can't wait

From memory the flywheel in the AUSDM dc5 is about 6-7kg and i have a feeling the euro's is heavier... but i'm not too sure if it'll be a 5kg saving, maybe a maximum of 4? But still i think the difference should be noticeable. Actually, when i get this done i'll see if i can weigh the stock flywheel and find out.

I also found out that the Comptech lightweight flywheel is of the exact same weight as the jdm dc5r's and as this flywheel was specifically engineered for the TSX i think 4.7kg should be a perfectly safe weight to use on the k24. I'm not sure if it's possible to have too light of a flywheel but with the euro's really high piston speeds i wouldnt be game to try anything under say 4kg?

hahaa man i love seein ur mods being done to ur euro man
quite the oppposite of me which i find so intriguing!
2 different styles and setup of the euro but in the end, both are frikin awesome!

chris - track oriented
stephen8512 - show oriented

may as well get the exedy clutch while ur at it chris! and do i see some lightweight volks in the near future? :D:D:D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by -stephen8512

hahaa man i love seein ur mods being done to ur euro man
quite the oppposite of me which i find so intriguing!
2 different styles and setup of the euro but in the end, both are frikin awesome!

chris - track oriented
stephen8512 - show oriented

may as well get the exedy clutch while ur at it chris! and do i see some lightweight volks in the near future? [img]images/smilies/icon_cheesygrin.gif[/img][img]images/smilies/icon_cheesygrin.gif[/img][img]images/smilies/icon_cheesygrin.gif[/img]

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yea it's kinda cool seeing two graphite pearl euro's slowly transform in fairly different directions. I'm getting an exedy sports organic clutch :thumbsup:

I'd love some lightweight volks - some matt silver 17" x 7.5 Te37's are my dream rims atm. But at the end of the day they are only gona save me a maximum of about 1-1.5kg per corner (my rims are only 8kg as it is) and although that is fairly significant i'd rather spend the money on a good Intake, header and then hopefully a programmable ecu.

I'm gonna have this car for at least 5 years so the volks will probably come eventually just not this year or the next :p

revived thread and updated my initial post and added a few more items with all the parts and prices

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sulley

btw, i'm able to get a pair of used spoon calipers with pads for ~$1750 landed in sydney. Im thought about getting them for myself but i figured i'll go for other mods. I think its quite a bargain, if anyone's interested, pm me, i see if i can get them for you.

ps. mods, im not a trader or anything, just trying to recommend a bargain.
if its deemed illegal, pls delete post. cheers

---

Spoon calipers + pads = 3300? They are 77000 yen each for calipers and 23000 for pads on the spoon.jp RRP. So they are 175000 yen all up which is = AU 2000. Probably you can get them cheaper from shops around japan. Unless if you are selling them for $1000 I'm in.

curik

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curik

Spoon calipers + pads = 3300? They are 77000 yen each for calipers and 23000 for pads on the spoon.jp RRP. So they are 175000 yen all up which is = AU 2000. Probably you can get them cheaper from shops around japan. Unless if you are selling them for $1000 I'm in.

curik

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lol
that's the price with parts ALONE. Dont forget the tax and shipping cost as spoon calipers are light but still bloody heavy. Get from a shop in Japan and bring it back? U need a strong arm to do that.

My favour mod so far is Tein SS and Spoon brake

I've never been taxed on anything I purchased overseas before. I bought the konis declared as gift so no prob at all. And they are about US150 for shipping 7 days. Hmm, unless if the Japs charge $500 for shipping?

You dont have to pay duty or gst on any imported consignment valued under AUD1000. Its got nothing to do with declaring it as a gift. If Customs look at it and decide its worth more than $1k then you will have to pay anyway. 100% of postal cargo is x-rayed on arrival so you make up your own mind. Realistically though just about everything is either duty free or 5% and gst 10% on CIF (value of goods plus insurance and freight)plus duty. So say you import something worth $2k, which cost $100 to ship, allowing $5,25 for insurance, you would have to pay $320.52. However say you split the shipment in half (and assuming customs did not pick up on the two consignments being linked ie get a seperate invoice for each one) then you wont have to pay anything in duty or gst.

YouRow, are you sure it works that way? If the value of the item is considered considerable, then you are still taxable for GST. I bought an item worth $800 and I had to pay the 10% GST. However, the item was not taxable in duties, so that was all I paid. If the value exceeds $1000, then there is considerably more paperwork and there is some admin fee and a wait of a few daysto get processed.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aaronng

YouRow, are you sure it works that way? If the value of the item is considered considerable, then you are still taxable for GST. I bought an item worth $800 and I had to pay the 10% GST. However, the item was not taxable in duties, so that was all I paid. If the value exceeds $1000, then there is considerably more paperwork and there is some admin fee and a wait of a few daysto get processed.

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That is what I hate about the Custom people, they always make mistakes.

Anyway you shouldn't be paying any tax until it becomes an $1000.01 item (EDITED, read the site wrong sorry). Then you will have to pay the applicable Custom Duties (5% for car parts? depending on country of origin.) plus 10% GST for Voti (which is cost of goods + freight + insurance + GST on custom duties itself).

http://www.customs.gov.au/site/page.cfm?u=4376

*******************
All goods (except for tobacco products and alcoholic beverages) may be imported duty and tax free if their value is $1,000 or less.

Note: However, where there are multiple packages to the same addressee in Australia from a single consignor overseas that arrive at about the same time, then the value of all packages will be combined for duty and tax assessment purposes. Refer to example 1.
*******************

You could argue about the payment with Customs - in the past I have done it more than 10 times, you just fax the receipt to them and explain that they might have classified it wrong. Or sometimes, Customs THINKS you're underdeclaring the item (and in most cases, the vendor DID do this) and as such Custom look up the Australian retail price and wack this on then charge you the relevant taxes. Then I have to show them exactly how much I paid, which obviously doesn't coincide with what's been declared on the box itself, but Custom will believe you as long as you can prove you paid that amount only.

:o

Argh its complicated. Then what about those who got the greddy exhaust from the states? It was about $1250 i think and he paid no tax. I guess if the package is stated as gift or replacement under warranty it might avoid tax. I just want spoon calipers and not a whole list of legal statements. :P

I'm sure :thumbsup: The laws changed since last year aswell. That extra time and paperwork is what I do for a living :)

Previously you had to pay if the total of duty and/or gst calculated was over $50. So if it was duty free, but worth $800, you had to pay $80 in GST.

Now though, it doesn't matter what is owing (tobacco and alcohol products excepted) so long as the total value of the goods is less than $1000.

However, say you bought a set of your preferred brand sway bars, suspension, and springs. Then you sent them all at the one time but in 3 different boxes to to try and make the value of each box under $1000. Customs can (and quite often do) pick up on this and could deem them to be all one consignment and make you pay up.

If you buy and ship them seperately then you are sweet. Just compare the additional shipping charge for doing three seperate orders (together might cost $30 total, apart might cost 3x $20 for example)to the amount of duty & gst you will avoid!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curik

Argh its complicated. Then what about those who got the greddy exhaust from the states? It was about $1250 i think and he paid no tax. I guess if the package is stated as gift or replacement under warranty it might avoid tax. I just want spoon calipers and not a whole list of legal statements. :P

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Customs valuation has nothing to do with what description you give the goods ie gift or warranty. If you claim warranty replacement you have to provide evidence to substantiate this (an email confirming from the supplier for example). You also have to destroy or re-rexport the original goods and keep proof of this.

The people who brought in goods valued at $1250 got lucky :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chris_F

thanks for the link

195kg!? holy crap... 1st gear is gonna be fun :D can't wait

From memory the flywheel in the AUSDM dc5 is about 6-7kg and i have a feeling the euro's is heavier... but i'm not too sure if it'll be a 5kg saving, maybe a maximum of 4? But still i think the difference should be noticeable. Actually, when i get this done i'll see if i can weigh the stock flywheel and find out.

I also found out that the Comptech lightweight flywheel is of the exact same weight as the jdm dc5r's and as this flywheel was specifically engineered for the TSX i think 4.7kg should be a perfectly safe weight to use on the k24. I'm not sure if it's possible to have too light of a flywheel but with the euro's really high piston speeds i wouldnt be game to try anything under say 4kg?

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Yeah, Comptech Flywheel around the same with the JDM DC5 Flywheel. The euro stock flywheel around 9-10 kg so it's pretty heavy spec :D.
Anyway it's worth mods to consider.

Back on topic, don't forget before everyone rushes off to buy lightweight flywheels that while the revs rise faster, they also fall faster...Which sounds fine in principle, but for daily driving is not necessarily fantastic unless your daily driving is akin to F1 :p

Yeh YouRow is right the gift rule never works. They don't give you any more leeway...

As for warranty claim - well, you have to show proof to them that its been sent out and re-imported.

Anyway, since the old $250 parcel value limit plus $50.00 taxable amount before you pay anything rule (depending on duties which means no duty items could be upto $500.10 before being taxed) has been abolished, then changed to $1000 rule, we are a lot more better off anyway. The Duties is much lower too as well.

If you bring it back as a plane passenger, they had a $400 rule as well as the hidden $50.00 taxable rule and then 20% depreciation rule, which theoretically meant you could have brought back in around mid $9XX of stuff before being taxed at all, depending on duties applicable. It was complicated but straight forward, and no GST was payable on shipping.

Now the limit is I think $900 (?) or around there but there is no more $50 tax rule since the $900's 10% GST is already well over the $50 limit. The 20% depreciation rule I think still applies.

So in reality, bringing things that are around $9XX back via plane never really changed in the way that it would be $9XX before you're taxed either way.

What's changed? Its that if you brought in $1200 of stuff prior to rule change, then you'll be charged duties plus tax on $1200-$400 = $800 taxable value.

Whereas that limit is now $1200-$900 = $300 taxable value. So again, under the new ruling we're better off as long as the item is over $9XX. Below that, it never actually changed.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ALN

Yeah, Comptech Flywheel around the same with the JDM DC5 Flywheel. The euro stock flywheel around 9-10 kg so it's pretty heavy spec :D.
Anyway it's worth mods to consider.

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hehe, i bet you noticed a big difference with the comptech flywheel, just like i did with the jdm dc5r one... it's definitely my best 'power' mod to date, the coilovers being the best handling mod :thumbsup:

agree

Quote:

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Originally Posted by YouRow

Back on topic, don't forget before everyone rushes off to buy lightweight flywheels that while the revs rise faster, they also fall faster...Which sounds fine in principle, but for daily driving is not necessarily fantastic unless your daily driving is akin to F1 :p

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quick rev up and down? not good at all for cramped city traffic in melbourne.

Lightweight rims usually have a better performance gain over a lightweight flywheel but without the drawbacks of your RPM dropping too quick. I'd say, a lightweight flywheel is a worthy mod AFTER you get lightweight rims and are looking for more performance.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by YouRow

Back on topic, don't forget before everyone rushes off to buy lightweight flywheels that while the revs rise faster, they also fall faster...Which sounds fine in principle, but for daily driving is not necessarily fantastic unless your daily driving is akin to F1 :p

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well i have one on my car and it really isn't that bad. Also less of an issue if you're staying with the stock clutch. You just have to adjust how you drive of course but given time youll still able to drive very smooth, very easily. Stick with something around 4.5kg and i think it's fine for daily driving. Something that weighs <4kg will very likely be a different matter all together.

aaronng, I changed my flywheel with my 'heavy' rims and noticed a big difference. Changing to my lightweight rims (saving 1.5kg per corner) the difference really wasn't that noticeable and definitely nothing in comparsion fo the 4kg or so i saved on the flywheel. So id say there is every reason to change the flywheel even without aftermarket lightweight rims (not with heavy 19's or 20's of course) as the stock 16's and 17's wouldn't really damper the affects.

seriously, this is a very underrated mod, but if you can't be bothered adjusting your driving technique or what mods that people can see or hear i guess its not for you... but damn it feels nice revving out with a lightweight flywheel.

2c

I think the biggest benefit of Lightened Flywheel is the instant throttle response - so much noticeable difference... At higher RPM its also a bit smoother/faster to the redline!

With lightened flywheel however, RPM does drop more instantaneously so you have to keep revving it higher especially during lower speeds to drive more smoothly and without stalling hmmm. :( At higher freeway speeds, it also doesn't keep the speed its traveling at so its a bit less smoother... but for me its perfect throttle control wise as its more 'instinctive' ?

Overall though the gains out-benefit the losses. Honda, N/A - its all about Revving anyway!

As for Lighter Wheels vs Lighter Flywheel its really hard to say. I think both are really beneficial and enough to be felt. But during braking (which makes up a lot of time on a circuit track) definitely the Wheels being part of the unsprung weight will help better in terms of braking control and distance.

But lightened flywheel is cheaper and as such, its really hard to say which mod is better.

I'd probably choose lightened flywheel, intake and exhaust and some good suspension first, but if I had more money I think I'll go better tyres before buying better wheels... afterall the stock wheels aren't overly bad I suppose? Its a relatively measurement vs price... ummm :(

Wow I didnt know that wheels make a huge difference. No wonder taking off is so much worse than using the stock wheels. The profounds must be 19kg or so.

Yep, throttle response is great with a lighter flywheel and it really does let the car rev out smoother.

And rpm changes are definitely more instaneous, but like you said the benifits really do out way any negatives, and personally i find (with the 4.7kg flywheel at least) that driving at lower speeds is fine once your used to the change.

And at highway speeds, you just put on cruise control and you don't even know it's there ;)

but yea lightweight wheels do serve a function, but the stock 16" rims on the standard euro are light already , some 'light' 17" or 18" rims actually add weight in comparison to the stock 16" (though upsizing to 17" is still beneficial).

And i agree good tyres > good wheels IMO aswell. Mainly for one reason: shithouse rims + amazing tyres = improvement, shithouse tyres + amazing rims = pointless.

If I had to choose an order of mods starting from stock it would be:

Swaybar (cost effective and great difference)

Coilovers (the icing on the cake for handling and aesthetics to some degree)

More bracing bars (can never have enough steering response and chassis stiffness *drool*)

New rims and tyres (when the stock rubber is all used up)

Lightweight flywheel (does about the same if not more for the car than I/H/E combined)

Intake (decent gains and gives a nice note)

Header (better breathing again)

Exhaust (amplifies the effects of the header)

Brake pad upgrade (to better handle the extra power)

DC5R camgear + tuneable ecu (futher increase power now that the braking is up to scratch)

after all that, your euro would be kicking some serious ass around a round-about on the track or going up your drive-way lol - it just wouldn't stop being fun :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Omotesando

I think the biggest benefit of Lightened Flywheel is the instant throttle response - so much noticeable difference... At higher RPM its also a bit smoother/faster to the redline!

With lightened flywheel however, RPM does drop more instantaneously so you have to keep revving it higher especially during lower speeds to drive more smoothly and without stalling hmmm. :( At higher freeway speeds, it also doesn't keep the speed its traveling at so its a bit less smoother... but for me its perfect throttle control wise as its more 'instinctive' ?

Overall though the gains out-benefit the losses. Honda, N/A - its all about Revving anyway!

As for Lighter Wheels vs Lighter Flywheel its really hard to say. I think both are really beneficial and enough to be felt. But during braking (which makes up a lot of time on a circuit track) definitely the Wheels being part of the unsprung weight will help better in terms of braking control and distance.

But lightened flywheel is cheaper and as such, its really hard to say which mod is better.

I'd probably choose lightened flywheel, intake and exhaust and some good suspension first, but if I had more money I think I'll go better tyres before buying better wheels... afterall the stock wheels aren't overly bad I suppose? Its a relatively measurement vs price... ummm :(

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chris_F

aaronng, I changed my flywheel with my 'heavy' rims and noticed a big difference. Changing to my lightweight rims (saving 1.5kg per corner) the difference really wasn't that noticeable and definitely nothing in comparsion fo the 4kg or so i saved on the flywheel. So id say there is every reason to change the flywheel even without aftermarket lightweight rims (not with heavy 19's or 20's of course) as the stock 16's and 17's wouldn't really damper the affects.

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Hehe, my idea of lightweight rims are forged rims, something at the level of CE28n which weigh about 6.27kg for 17x7.5". But yeah, I was mentioning about the rims because people tend to go for heavy 18" replicas first and then go for a lightweight flywheel further down the road when in reality, they are just restoring their stock performance. LOL

hey black cat how much lighter is a good lighter wheel compared to stock (including tyres). Does it impact similarly with changing to lighter flywheel? There is one very light and expensive wheel made from magnesium. Do you know what it is?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aaronng

Hehe, my idea of lightweight rims are forged rims, something at the level of CE28n which weigh about 6.27kg for 17x7.5". But yeah, I was mentioning about the rims because people tend to go for heavy 18" replicas first and then go for a lightweight flywheel further down the road when in reality, they are just restoring their stock performance. LOL

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haha, that rim is not only lightweight but THE lightest (non magnesium) rim available from volk in that size. But yea it's a good point, having lightweight rims and a lightweight flywheel will make the biggest difference. And like you said if someone just has to have those heavier 18"/19" rims they'll probably only be restoring the stock revability to the car, but even that makes it worthwhile.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curik

hey black cat how much lighter is a good lighter wheel compared to stock (including tyres). Does it impact similarly with changing to lighter flywheel? There is one very light and expensive wheel made from magnesium. Do you know what it is?

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You're probably thinking of the Volk TE37 mag

it depends on the size of the rim, you already have stock on the car, you may only save a kilo or two with a really lightweight 17" rim going from the 16" standard rim (but the added diametre more than likely negates the affect of the weight saving). Going from the 17" euro luxury/sport rims you may be looking at saving 2-3kg per wheel but not much more than that. But saving unsprung weight on the rims isn't like saving weight from the chassis, the affects are amplified.

Well Curik you got the looks and I don't yet :)

I honestly don't think the stock rims are too bad at all on my 2005 Lux, they look like they aren't that heavy...! which is bad - really bad - because its deterring me from upgrading my wheels! damn... I want some lightweight 18s badly!

the 05 lux rims are great, i can see why youd consider keeping them, i think i would

Chris - you aren't helping me settle on a decision lol - I really want some good new rims, lower it with a good package, and yeah - new, better tyres...

LUCKY U, got some good aftermarket gears running already.. :P

Damn, I shouldnt have bought these wheels

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Omotesando

Chris - you aren't helping me settle on a decision lol - I really want some good new rims, lower it with a good package, and yeah - new, better tyres...

LUCKY U, got some good aftermarket gears running already.. :P

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haha, if i was in your position, I'd get some coilovers first and then the euroR lip kit - the 05 luxury rims ARE the euroR rims in a slightly lighter shade of silver.

But you aren't me lol, and 18" rims do still look good on a euro... what rims were you thinking of in particular?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curik

Damn, I shouldnt have bought these wheels

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your 19" profounds... why's that?

too heavy I assume?

Personally I'd be after coil overs, lightweight 17's & thicker rear anti-sway bar (just the next thickness up). Maybe a euroR lip kit if you want some body add ons. Engine wise I'd go Hondata stage 4 when released. When that was all done maybe a brake upgrade. Once all that was done you'd have 1 sweet ride visually and on the road (or track). That's my best mods for Euro. All mods have a purpose to improve ride and performance.

Pity I can't afford any of that now since we just bought a house :(. Better decision in the long run I'm sure though.

Yeah I'm not too sure how much the profound weighs, maybe over 20kg (19x8.5). On all 4 corners means nearly 100kg!!! As in improving performance, I'm thinking of getting this header. Some ppl in the US have them fitted and getting about 15hp. Here it is: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Acura...spagenameZWD2V . Yeah it is made in China but the welding job is good and shouldnt be a prob as this is just a tube after all.

they have review on dc headers on vtec.net =D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curik

Yeah I'm not too sure how much the profound weighs, maybe over 20kg (19x8.5). On all 4 corners means nearly 100kg!!! As in improving performance, I'm thinking of getting this header. Some ppl in the US have them fitted and getting about 15hp. Here it is: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Acura...spagenameZWD2V . Yeah it is made in China but the welding job is good and shouldnt be a prob as this is just a tube after all.

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woah! that is really one heavy rim. If your interested in squeezing some performance out of the euro they'd have to go - changing rims would do more than that header would ;) - Also in relation to the header i personally wouldn't go for something like that off ebay, and I was sure that DC sports didn't make a stainless steal version of their header for the tsx (this must be an immitation product?). The design also appears to have no flex pipe, wich isn't a good thing IMO as the k24 moves around quite a bit under acceleration/breaking and this could cause such a header to weaken over time and possibly crack etc.

Go for something like comptech.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by enkay

they have review on dc headers on vtec.net =D

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Haha even though its stated as DC header but actually it is not. It doesnt have any brands. Here is a thread about it from tsxfreaks: http://tsx.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31467

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chris_F

woah! that is really one heavy rim. If your interested in squeezing some performance out of the euro they'd have to go - changing rims would do more than that header would ;) - Also in relation to the header i personally wouldn't go for something like that off ebay, and I was sure that DC sports didn't make a stainless steal version of their header for the tsx (this must be an immitation product?). The design also appears to have no flex pipe, wich isn't a good thing IMO as the k24 moves around quite a bit under acceleration/breaking and this could cause such a header to weaken over time and possibly crack etc.

Go for something like comptech.

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Flex pipe? I think it does have it, the picture before wasnt so clear. Anyway this isnt a rip off of DC, it is a generic header with no brand. Also dyno proven which makes me think to get one. Here is a better picture http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Acura...QQcmdZViewItem

Quote:

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Originally Posted by enkay

they have review on dc headers on vtec.net =D

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You are mistaken. There are 2 review articles on vtec.net. One is the DC Sports ceramic coated mild steel headers, and the 2nd is the comptech stainless steel headers. The one mentioned in the ebay link provided is a totally different recently developed header that was discussed on tsx.acurazine.

Black cat, are you saying that the review is not this header? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Acura...QQcmdZViewItem

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curik

Black cat, are you saying that the review is not this header? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Acura...QQcmdZViewItem

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I quoted the wrong message. Read my post again. I just fixed it. :)
And I'm Aaron, not black cat. Sometimes I'm a grey cat too.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curik

hey black cat how much lighter is a good lighter wheel compared to stock (including tyres). Does it impact similarly with changing to lighter flywheel? There is one very light and expensive wheel made from magnesium. Do you know what it is?

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From an article I read, reducing unsprung weight (i.e. rims and tyres), it reduces the rotational mass and moment of inertia. They claimed that a 5lbs per rim reduction in unsprung weight was an equivalent of 200lbs reduction in sprung weight. That's a 10x effect increase. So going to the 6.7kg rims from the 10kg stock rims will be equivalent to a 132kg reduction in sprung weight. That's better than pulling out your interior, putting on a carbon fibre bonnet and removing the rear seats and spare tyre.

Also, the same 10x enhancement effect applies to other rotational mass such as the flywheel and crank pulley.

http://hondaswap.com/general-tech-ar...art-2-a-29058/

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aaronng

From an article I read, reducing unsprung weight (i.e. rims and tyres), it reduces the rotational mass and moment of inertia. They claimed that a 5lbs per rim reduction in unsprung weight was an equivalent of 200lbs reduction in sprung weight. That's a 10x effect increase. So going to the 6.7kg rims from the 10kg stock rims will be equivalent to a 132kg reduction in sprung weight. That's better than pulling out your interior, putting on a carbon fibre bonnet and removing the rear seats and spare tyre.

Also, the same 10x enhancement effect applies to other rotational mass such as the flywheel and crank pulley.

http://hondaswap.com/general-tech-ar...art-2-a-29058/

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thanks, that was an interesting read. I've read other write-ups before that state its an 8x multiplier, but I guess it would also depend where the weight was distributed on the rim itself? For instance, 8" wide rims have more mass at the extreme diametre than 7" wide rims and may effectively have a higher moment of inertia (is this correct?).