[Euro] A Performance Focus...

I've decided to go more the performance route with my car now... looking at doing the whole I/H/E and possibly ecu down the track. I've already had my stereo uninstalled and am now selling that off to get a bit of money together.

so far i have a euro-R grill, exedy sports organic clutch, jdm DC5R flywheel (4.7kg) and cusco lower arm brace type II on order to replace my subs and amps etc :p.

I've also put my bodykit up for sale to allow me to buy some toda headers (still buying the euro-R grill for cosmetic reasons though i really don't like the chrome).

How would everyone else go about this - and do u think i'm going about it the right way? Should my first priority be I/H/E then ecu (i.e power) or should i go for better breaks and lighter forged wheels? keeping in mind the cars handling is taken care of.

I'd reckon brakes would be a good place to start.
cheaper option- brakelines, high temp brake pads and brake fluid.
more expensive options- spoon calipers 4 pots or AP racing 6 pots
semi-slick tyres
better engine oil
LSD
These mods should help you greatly on the track. At the end of the day, even if you have more power, with OEM tyres and stock brakes, you'll be losing grip and braking power after just a few laps and will be unable to put the power to good use.

Cooling wise
thermostat and Fanswitch as it'll activate the fan at a lower temp, thus cooling the engine faster.

Power wise
Headers, single outlet exhaust

credit has to be given to Noel, he's been a great help to me with regards to track preparation of a euro. Provided loads of infomation and advice.

Thanks sulley :thumbsup:

once i start doin a bit of trackwork i'll probably just end up replacing the break-pads just untill i've had a bit more practice/get a bit more serious.

i think i'll also leave the lsd for a while for the same reason.

i have some decent eagle f1 tyres atm (225/45/R17) but i'm considering semi slicks for my next set. could you reccomend a good, relatively cheap and streetable set?

Yea, I've heard the whole dual muffler thing is completely pointless on a euro powerwise... but i don't know if i'd go to a single sided exhaust because i'd really hate it to be super loud for everyday driving - i want this car to still be a "sleeper" :p. I was thinking something along the lines of mugen, that although it won't make much power (if any) will at least give a bit of weight saving.

I'm not a good person to recommend semi slicks.
but you're looking at around $400 for a brand new 17" semi slick tyre.


Im contemplating getting a 2nd set of 17" rims fitted with semi slicks, just for the track as semi-slicks wear out pretty fast(>15000kms) depending on compound and driving style and wouldnt be worthwhile for daily use. And i currently got 18" rims which isnt exactly ideal for track.

As for exhaust , imo Mugen ain't worth it. Too expensive for the amount of weight it saves. My 5Zigen single exhaust isnt loud at all. Sound only a little bit louder than stock, the Injen CAI is much louder than the exhaust.

hmm about 400 was what i was expecting for the semi slicks. similar price to my eagle f1's but i guess they'll only last half the distance (so double the price if i look at it that way). if your getting some wheels soley for the track maybe even some 16's would be better?

yea the mugen exhaust is quite expensive, i don't think i'll waste my money on it. I'm thinking it may be possible to do a single exhaust system with a dummy muffler on one of the sides, kinda lame, but having an empty hole where a muffler is meant to be would annoy me. Have any single exhaust systems been tested on a euro on a dyno?

I would get some 16" semi-slicks like A048 for track use

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Chris_F

I've also put my bodykit up for sale to allow me to buy some toda headers (still buying the euro-R grill for cosmetic reasons though i really don't like the chrome).

How would everyone else go about this - and do u think i'm going about it the right way? Should my first priority be I/H/E then ecu (i.e power) or should i go for better breaks and lighter forged wheels? keeping in mind the cars handling is taken care of.

---

Chris - IMO you should wait on I/h/e until you know when Hondata is going to be released. I am not saying Hondata is going to be the right answer for you - just that it could give you another option given Hondata is developing their own i/h/e to suit a particular reflash - ie a package deal including the bolt ons.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by yfin

Chris - IMO you should wait on I/h/e until you know when Hondata is going to be released. I am not saying Hondata is going to be the right answer for you - just that it could give you another option given Hondata is developing their own i/h/e to suit a particular reflash - ie a package deal including the bolt ons.

---

cool! i didn't know that - where'd you find out about that?

I'll defintiely look into it, but i'm also considering the hydra nemesis ecu if it works for the euro as well as the tsx. At the end of the day if i got an ecu i think i'd rather spend a bit more and get something that is programmable not just a reflash.

This hondata package though... intriguing:D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Chris_F

cool! i didn't know that - where'd you find out about that?

I'll defintiely look into it, but i'm also considering the hydra nemesis ecu if it works for the euro as well as the tsx. At the end of the day if i got an ecu i think i'd rather spend a bit more and get something that is programmable not just a reflash.

This hondata package though... intriguing:D

---

Yeah intriguing but development of hondata is too slow. At first release was mid September 05- now we are in mid December and no updates on that website at all. The least they can do is keep us informed.

See post 12

http://www.hondatech.com.au/forum/sh...?p=464#post464

yea i have to agree - i'm kinda tired of waiting for it to be honest... if i can get the money together i'm more likely to get something like injen cai, toda headers and single outlet exhaust (maybe with a dummy muffler :p)

i just read that link too thanks :thumbsup:

considering they are using the toda headers it may be a worthwhile package. Mention is also made of dyno tuning? i didn't think that was possible with a reflash?

But wouldnt those mods void the honda warranty?

I may look into getting a Hondata ECU, as long as it doesnt void the warranty. :honda:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by EuroDude

But wouldnt those mods void the honda warranty?

I may look into getting a Hondata ECU, as long as it doesnt void the warranty. :honda:

---

If honda is going to blame you, everything will void the warranty...

If any modified part causes a problem, it will void the warranty on those affected areas; e.g. a CAI won't void the warranty on your stereo, but if it results in killing your engine then no warranty. Subaru particularly had a lot of problems with people changing exhausts, fitting intakes, etc. on WRXs and killing their clutches and gearboxes. No warranty applied because people were putting the parts under more stress than they were factory engineered to take.

Insurance companies also particularly don't like engine management modifications -- even less than many other mods. Many will just flat out refuse to insure you -- because you're more likely to cause damage to the car.

Of course, if you're on a track, you're uninsured for that period of time anyhow. If anything goes wrong on a track, you're not covered...

Thats fair enough I guess, especially looking at it from their perspective.

Though an ECU upgrade is ok in their books right?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tobster

If any modified part causes a problem, it will void the warranty on those affected areas; e.g. a CAI won't void the warranty on your stereo, but if it results in killing your engine then no warranty. Subaru particularly had a lot of problems with people changing exhausts, fitting intakes, etc. on WRXs and killing their clutches and gearboxes. No warranty applied because people were putting the parts under more stress than they were factory engineered to take.

Insurance companies also particularly don't like engine management modifications -- even less than many other mods. Many will just flat out refuse to insure you -- because you're more likely to cause damage to the car.

Of course, if you're on a track, you're uninsured for that period of time anyhow. If anything goes wrong on a track, you're not covered...

---

Dealer can blame you still, you need to connect wires for Stero right? and they can blame that your poor labour work affects the ECU signals or **** or it causes problems. It really happens before. IF THEY WANNA BLAME YOU, THEY COULD MAKE UP ANY REASONS.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by EuroDude

Thats fair enough I guess, especially looking at it from their perspective.

Though an ECU upgrade is ok in their books right?

---

ECU "upgrade" is engine management -- doesn't matter if it's a new chip, reprogramming the old chip, or a stand alone or piggyback controller -- you're changing the way the engine works, generally for more power, which means (a) you're likely to be driving hard and fast (= risk) or (b) more likely to cook the engine or wear out components and make a claim.

You can go to any tuner and get them to tweak your engine at any time -- it doesn't mean to say that they know what they're doing. Something like Hondata is still just a matter of an aftermarket tuner playing with trial and error to see what works and what doesn't, and then bringing out a "these are our tested setting for the X-model". They aren't necessarily concerned about things that the factory have to pay attention to such as emissions or fuel consumption. That's not to say that there aren't some really good tuners out there...

Most insurance companies just don't like you playing with the engine CPU management.

If in doubt, ASK before you do anything!