neone done these b4 ?? i got a eg hatch and they are screwed .. dunno how hard they are gonna b .. neone have a clue ??
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neone done these b4 ?? i got a eg hatch and they are screwed .. dunno how hard they are gonna b .. neone have a clue ??
are you talking about lower control arm bushes?? front or rear??
screwed as in how?
more details
we cant help u if u just say they are screwed
rear traling arm bushes = large bushes at the rear trailing arm :)
Im doign mine on my EG hatch soon - either pay $250 inluding parts n labour , $120 labour or buy the 2 x bushes , take to a workshop and get the to DIY
Mine ended up being torn and saggy rubber bushes...
By lower trailing arm, I assume you mean the rear suspension one that travels from front to the hub... That big sucker is a PAIN IN THE @SS cause the whole arm has to come out and it is harder than it already looks. The worst bit is, a new trailing arm bush is not cheap.
Check the LCA bushes(F&R) where your struts attach too. They are normally screwed by this stage and are hard to replace without a hydraulic press.
Iv done them before,
several times actually :)
what exactly do you want to know
step by step DIY plz Mr John :)Quote:
Originally Posted by ECU-MAN
i can remove the trailing arms and take to a mech and back...but is there a better DIY to do all (or most ) urself ?
yeah the bushes are perished .. getting some poly urethane ones from a suspension shop... but yeah i need to diy take off the arm and take it to wokr to get pressed off ... and then fit the new one... was just wondering if neone knew a quick way to take off the arm ??
no other way ben
you have to remove the arms.
I once saw a fellow workmate do it in the car with out taking the arms out, took him longer and he said he would never do it that way ever again.
what you have to do is.
1 raise the rear of the car and support it on stands\
2 take the rear wheels
Drum brakes
3 take off the drums
4 take out the drum shoes
5 undo the hand brake cable and free it from the arm
disk brakes
3 undo the caliper from the hub
4 undo the caliper mount braket
5 undo the two screw that hold the disk on the hub and remove the hub
6 undo the top arm that goes from the trailing arm to the body
7 undo the brake line from the arm
8 undo the arm at the end of the trailing arm that attaches to the body ( this is the adjustable end where you set the toe of the rear alignment.)
9 undo the lower arm to trailing arm bolt ( the lower arm attaches tot he shocker )
10 undo the 2x 17mm head bolts that hold the TA bush to the body
if your going to do the pressing your self
pay attention to how the old bush sits in the arm. you have to put the new bush in the same. the bush will have a marking on it to show you which way to press in.
assembly is the the same as disasembly, just need to bleed the brakes ( all 4 wheels ) when your done.
then rear wheel alignment
all i did today was take off the lower arm bolt .. the bolt infront of the bush.. the bolt on top arm.. the disconnect brake line and hand brake line ..
walah
arm is out...
then bush is a shit coz u gotta press it out
then heat the shit out of it with an oxy to get the middle part out and all the other rubber shit on the inside..
so u get ur new bush once all that shit is clean then press bush inside the cyliner that u took out and press the middle bit out(part which has the bits to bolt up arm...)
then put it all bak together .. walah there u ahve one new bush and yeah bleed brakes... and get rear wheel align.. but yeah im not gonna do that again coz all the fumes that come off the rubber is bad ...
steer_gimic just did he's on the weekend... ask him questions if you need help!
related question
how the f*ck do u remove the steering arm of the front hub?
i've been bashing at the arm all day long and it wont come off the hub.!!!!
you heated your trailling arms !!!!!!!!!!:eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by EG5[KRT]
OMG, Im never getting in your car..
rofl @ John....i agree...heated metal is never the same tensile strength methinks ! Good luck and dont drive too fast lol.
Anyway , John - the handbrake cable only needs to be disconnected from the rear of the caliper yeah ( where there is a small clip) and NOT pulled thru the cabin ?
Good...i mgiht DIY this soon.
thats right Ben, from the caliper or the drum.
no need to do it from the cabin
haha no i didnt heat the arm .. i heated the old bush to get the mounting plate out and all the old rubber from the old mount because u need it with the new bushQuote:
Originally Posted by ECU-MAN
this was a urethane bush not a replacement oem one ...
Hi all,
I found the information listed in this thread useful, but I have some points and corrections that may help any one doing this, particularly those with a disc brake rear (EK Civic GLi).
1. There is no need to remove the disc from the hub. Obviously the caliper and handbrake cable have to come off. This is easy. In fact, the whole job is surprisingly simple. PS Tie the caliper to the spring to keep it out of the way while you work - don't leave it dangling by the brake hydraulic hose.
2. Before you remove the arms, make a note of the toe settings. This is the small arm in front of the big bush that you are trying to replace. You will need to get a wheel alignment, but having the old settings is a good place to start when you put everything back together.
3. Make a note of the depth that the old bushes are pushed into the arm. There is no positive stop, so it is up to you to push them in to the correct depth. Alternatively you could pay a suspension shop to push out your old bushes and put in the new ones.
4. A tape measure wheel alignment is more than enough to get you to the wheel alignment place.
5. A workshop manual is found here: http://www.honda.co.uk/car/owner/workshop.html
It will give you torque settings and so on.
6. Wear gloves when you put everything back together as the stone guard can cut you up real good....
7. In dec 2006, I paid about $85 each for the Honda bushes (ouch), and a 4 wheel alignment cost $77. I was quoted $300 labour + parts from a couple of local mechanics and suspension places. At least one place was going to use a hammer to get the old bushes out (which is why I did it myself)
7. I took my time and spent about 2-3 hours on this job.
8. Strangely the car now takes off more smoothly than it used to, and it obviously corners more confidently.
Hope this helps someone.
Regards,
Nick
(1997 Civic GLi)
Noltec bushes with the pivot style centre are $75 each(if you know the right people ;)) and made from urethane...
I need to have all of the front lower arm bushings replaced.. If I supply bushings.. what do you think is reasonable price for labour ?
I tried to replace the oem bushing with some aftermarket eurethane bushing (blue) but it wasnt the right size and it was a complete pain in the ass plus 4 x nervous breakdowns ;) to remove the old one so I am not goin to do this DIY again.. I'd rather do another engine swap !
Remove the front lower control arms yourself, supply arms and new bushes to a mechanic and it should be no more than 45 minutes of effort required.
this was rear trailing arm bushes
anyway another way of doing it was.. another mechanic at work did my other bush..
smack the crap out of the housing that held the bush in.. drilled a gazillion holes in the bush.. hacksawed the rest out.took the support out and put in new bush and pressed bush into old housing..
no the instruction of the "super pro" bush it says to use an oxy to clean the housing of the old bush.. so thats what i did on my left hand rear.. its much faster but damn alot of smoke and deadly fumes.. so try and wear a mask and proper oxy glasses.
but in the end it has a good feel in the rear .. but makes it a bit stiff so on track it gets a bit of understeer... but that was fixed with a bigger rear sway bar.