in the honda service manual.. there is a torque spec for replacing engine oil.. does it really matter? coz i dont think mechanics (even hanny) care about it... they just tighten the bolt
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in the honda service manual.. there is a torque spec for replacing engine oil.. does it really matter? coz i dont think mechanics (even hanny) care about it... they just tighten the bolt
Its a pretty high torque spec, from memory its something like do it up till it becomes hard to turn, then do one more quarter of a turn.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jazzle
Also, afaik hanny's suck the oil out with a machine instead of draining by the sump plug?
Or, you can do what I did and get a Fumoto Oil Drain Valve and not have to worry about it :D http://www.autospeed.com/cgi-bin/bro...?category=4337
http://us1.webpublications.com.au/st...0/2029_8lo.jpg
Good stuff Andys.. Might get one of those.. You have to pay US dollar for that ya?
Honda All other models from '84 & on 14mm-1.5 F-106 $49.74 US$38.30
Only thing is.. whether the dealer workshop will throw that away in the next service..
Nope, its $49 AUS. I think its only worth it if you change the oil yourself, and do it frequently. I do mine about every 3,000km so it made sense for me. If you're still taking your car to the workshop then there's not much point in having it..
- Andrew
whats the go but do you have to keep your finger on it
Nah, its a tap. Its fiddly to open but with a bit of practice it can be done without getting a drop of oil spilt on you :) Then you just push it and it clicks shut again.
- Andrew
so it has springs an seals yeah
Right, it locks in the shut position. You have to fiddle and lift it up and over a bump to open it. So there's no chance of it opening accidentally.
i dont like it i come from a track racing background an we have a saying
(its there to fail) just keep a close eye on it cause when it starts to leak you gona risk blowin your motor
in the end
it adds weight
it costs more
an being that it has seals of some sort it will fail
but if it keeps your hands clean wow
Na.. I do change oil myself every 5000km in between service intervals. What I don't want is the workshop people don't really know how to use that thing and chuck it away.. From what I understand, it is pretty simple to use? Just push and turn to release and close? It is a simple screw on and the lift will be align on the top when it is all screwed it? (just don't want the lift to be on the left or right or bottom instead of the top..)Quote:
Originally Posted by Andys
http://us1.webpublications.com.au/st...07800000tb.jpg
Andy, do you change the filter as well when you do your own 3000km oil change? Does the REFUSE station charge you for disposing the oil.. (sorry.. off topic)
Ta.
Yep, its simple, they would be pretty dumb if they chucked it out, I'd ask them for $50 off the service if they did that. On my integra, the tap was at the top vertically when it was tightened so it was aligned just right not to get caught on anything.Quote:
Originally Posted by ahcash
I usually re-use the filter once or twice, depending how much driving i've done..Quote:
Andy, do you change the filter as well when you do your own 3000km oil change? Does the REFUSE station charge you for disposing the oil..
I haven't tried recycling any oil yet, I just have a stack of old oil bottles building up the garden shed :o
Well, I understand where you are coming from. I've had a few people express dismay that I am using it. But if you don't try out new technology sometimes you're going to get stuck in the past.Quote:
i dont like it i come from a track racing background an we have a saying
(its there to fail) just keep a close eye on it cause when it starts to leak you gona risk blowin your motor
in the end
it adds weight
it costs more
an being that it has seals of some sort it will fail
but if it keeps your hands clean wow
I check my oil level very frequently and recommend that every does -- in the Honda car manual it actually says to check it every time you fill up at a petrol station! My ears are quite attuned to listening to the motor so I can tell if its running low on oil, the top end sounds different.
Finally, the tap is made in Japan, doesn't weigh very much, and uses a ball valve with extremely fine engineering tolerances - why do you think something so small costs $50? It should last a very long time and lets me change oil more frequently, so I personally believe my engine will be more reliable, not less, by having this feature.
I think if I was on a racing team then I'd consider it unnecessary, and I'd probably just use the air-powered oil pump to change the oil instead like at Hanny's. :)
- Andrew
oh my question is.. not how u drain the oil... it's after u drain. does it matter to tighten the bolt to the recommended torque spec?? coz from wat i see, mechanics just tighten the bolt with normal wrench without measuring the torque spec
Ahh.. sorry Jazzle.. was a bit off the track talking about the other oil drain valve..Quote:
Originally Posted by Jazzle
I have the same question.. Just wondering what will happen if the recommended torque spec is not followed.. will the car run slower, will it damage the engine? I don't think so, my guess is the spec is to prevent the oil from leaking.. When I did my own oil change, I just tighten it (hard) and check for any oil leak after a few runs.. That's just me!
If you undertighten, you might leak oil.
If you overtighten, you might break the bolt or worse, the thread in the sump.
The washer is designed to be crushed slightly, so here's what to do: Keep doing it up until you feel it get suddenly harder, then do one more quarter turn with your wrench, and thats it.
- Andrew