HONDA FEO Oil blend

Hey guys,

Ok i just went out and brought Oil so i can service my car within the next coming days. I used magatech before and didnt have a problem with that at all. Just was wondering if it would be safe to switch over to FEO or would i have to stick with Magatec. I heard some where switching oils can damage parts, so i dont know. Any advice guys? its a F22B3 Engine. Magatec was rated at 10W-40, FEO is rated at 10W-30. Also i read on the previous owner serviced the car at honda (John Blair) and they used Magnatec FMX 10W 30, Is this the FEO blend or wat. I'm confused about this.

Thanks

If you go to a lower viscosity (30), then you might get some smoke from oil passing the rings and burning if your piston rings are not in good condition. If they are in good condition, then you can go from 10w-40 to 10w-30. How long have you owned the car (and used 10w-40)?

FEO is not magnatech. FEO is made by Castrol but I don't think that there is a consumer equivalent.

Owned the car since dec05 And when i got it i changed the oil my self then about Jan 05 got it serviced and got the mechanic to use Magnatec as well. The car has done 85K Km's on it and its a 97 CD5 Accord.

FEO is made by Castrol to Honda's specifications and is apparently quality checked by Honda every 3 months.John Blair do use magnatec oil as it is closer to the FEO specs than the previously used Shell Helix.When servicing NSX or S2000 they only use FEO and not the magnatec.

WoW spanks,

How the hell do u know so much about such a little thing like oil? so should i stick to the Magnatec or go with honda FEO roughly about the same price.

The FEO oil is a decent oil for most honda cars. You only really need a better oil if your gonna give your car a hard time.

FEO is okay because you change your oil every 6 months and there is no opportunity for it to break down. Are you changing oil every 6 or 12 months? Not sure about the CD5, but most Hondas have an oil change interval of 6 months.

I change my oil about every 5K Kms or every 3 months which ever occurs first. (usualy the 5000Km.

Ahh, I see. Why not try FEO once? If you like it and it doesn't give you problems, then stick it instead of magnatec.

Limbo was saying something about Pushing your car hard, I generaly do that alot well at least once every time i drive. I love the feel of it! so will the FEO give me the protection that i need???

For what you'd pay at a Honda dealer for the FEO 10w-30, you'll be much better off with the Castrol Formula R 5w30 at Supercheap Autos for $29.95. It is however being rebranded and rebottled as the Castrol Edge 5w30 for $45 or so. It meets the stringent M-Benz 229.3 standard. I use it on my Civic Breeze with 250,000kms on the clock and no oil burning or smoke whatsoever.

With a late model engine such as yours built so very tight tolerances with so few k's on the clock you could even use the FEO 0w20 I saw at my local Honda dealer for $8x.00 for 4 litres. They use that oil mostly for S2000 owners when it's requested.

Fuchs also offers a 0w20 oil for the au market.

If the magnatec 10w40 ( very good oil I might add, I use that for a fren's EL falcon and it's perfect for that ) is what you've been using, be prepared to be amazed with the 5w30 for the minimal outlay.

The castrol R 5-30w is like $45 here in Sydney. The FEO oil is like $27.
I would not run a 0-20w mainly because it is way too thin. Especially on a high revving engine your likely to damage the engine when the temp gones up.

a 30w blend is the lowest i would go or you risk killing the engine at high temps.

Honda are designed to run on 10-30w. The initial part is only when cold so the thinner there is fine. The top rating is when the car is running at high temps. The larger the value the thicker the oil. Oils are designed to run at certain ranges. If you get one that is too thin, at higher temps it will break down. The more expensive oils are designed to outlive the heat, but chosing a very thin oil like a 20w is almost sucide.

Only honda actually run a 30w blend due to the lighter internals. Most other manufacturers run a 50w blend. Just rem that the thinner the blend the less protection your gonna get. In expensive oils they test this. Oils all break down after time and heat stress but again the better the quality the more resistant the oil.

FEO oil is very good for road use, but i would recommend a change every 5,000km. If you have the money i would run the 5-30w Castrol R, if you had more money i would run the Mobile 1, 5-30w which is $80 a bottle.

All comes down to prices choice.

P.S the magnatec was designed for non-honda cars and the 40w is slightly thinker than what is normal. It will protect fine but will consume slightly more fuel. You might not even notice it but the car will feel slightly lagged.

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Originally Posted by Limbo

The castrol R 5-30w is like $45 here in Sydney. The FEO oil is like $27.
I would not run a 0-20w mainly because it is way too thin. Especially on a high revving engine your likely to damage the engine when the temp gones up.

a 30w blend is the lowest i would go or you risk killing the engine at high temps.

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Firsty Limbo multigrade automotive engine oils are desginated by xW-x(xx) eg 5W30, 20W50 not 20-50W. The W refers to winter and corresponds to the viscosity of the engine oil at 40 deg C measured in Cst. The 2nd value corresponds to its viscosity at 100 deg C. It behaves differently at diff temps thus it's classified as a multigrade oil; which is different to the term "blend" you were referring to.

Secondly if they formulate the FEO 0w20 oil with the S2000 and NSX in mind that revs to 9K rpm don't you think they would make sure it's an approapiate before offering it as their premium performance product for the high performance Honda vehicles?

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Originally Posted by Limbo

Honda are designed to run on 10-30w.

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Check your owners handbook, Honda recommends different oil viscosities for different climates in the world. No problem with the 10w30 grade in Aust all year; but in North America on the East coast with temp as low as -30 to -40 F in winter running 10W30 most engines would hardly crank over and thus the need to use 0w30 or 5w30 at bare minimum.

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Originally Posted by Limbo

Only honda actually run a 30w blend due to the lighter internals. Most other manufacturers run a 50w blend.

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Not only Hondas run on thinner grade of oil, the current Ford Falcon runs on 5w30 from the factory. Late models Porsches, BMWs and M-Benz, amongst many other Japanese engines demands 5w-30 or 0w-40 engine oils. American built Ford Mustangs with the new gen modular V8 for the past 5 years are factory filled with 0w20 oils.

The Castrol R 5w-30 has a flash point of 212 deg C, which is about 5-15 deg C higher than many decent quality 5w-40, 15w40 and 15w50 oils. So don't confuse the weight of the oil at high temps with its ablity to protect your engine at high temps.

Actually, the first number is the relative viscosity at -18ºC (0 ºF). W means that they are suitable for winter use (pourable down to -18 ºC).

USA manufacturers are using 5/10w-30 oils now because they can then promote lower fuel consumption figures. It's not because their engines are manufactured to precision like Honda or BMW engines.

Limbo: If you want Castrol Formula R 5w-30 for $30, rush to supercheap auto and pick up the remaining stocks. I just picked up 0w-40 with 20% off for $40 each!

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Originally Posted by Xplodin

Limbo was saying something about Pushing your car hard, I generaly do that alot well at least once every time i drive. I love the feel of it! so will the FEO give me the protection that i need???

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Yes, FEO will be sufficient. Even for track use FEO is sufficient to protect your engine. Before (if your last oil change was close to 6 months) and after every track day always change your oil.

Wow thanks guys for all that info Really helped me heaps.... I think Honda FEO is going to be my new Oil. :D Ummmmmm FEO

actually even mr icima... - spoon recomended feo as daily use and even track use (once in a while though) coz they are good oils.. ive been using mobil1 and motul oil but for daily driving just use honda feo oem oil :)

Just to throw another alternative into the fray:
Penrite make a 5w-60, 5w-40, 0w-50 and 10w-50 amongst various others... Is a semi-synthetic and retails for under $40!

I wouldn't hesitate on Penrite 5w-40. But all the others are a bit too viscous for my car. Maybe for an older car with less than good rings. But not for our nice, well running engines.

On the topic of Oils, is it safe to go from Mobil 1 back to Honda FEO?

Reason why I'm asking is because I "think" I read somewhere that once you go Synthetic you don't go back non-Synethetic oils.

thanks.

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Originally Posted by elim

On the topic of Oils, is it safe to go from Mobil 1 back to Honda FEO?

Reason why I'm asking is because I "think" I read somewhere that once you go Synthetic you don't go back non-Synethetic oils.

thanks.

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For a start, changing from Synthetic to Mineral based oil, the engine might not be able to cope with the reduced lubrication from mineral based oil..

I have used 0W-40 before on another car, and usually day in day out it is okay but if I revved it a lot during say a long cruise, it does consume a little bit of oil (even if my compression across all 4 cylinders were perfect). Didn't use much at all, but still noticeable after hours of revving.

0W-40 increases power fairly obviously however, but not that sure about protection.


There is a new Castrol produce called EDGE which comes in 0W-40, 5W-30 and 10W-60. Fully synthetic, and newer than the SLX.

There is also the normal Magnatec 10W-40 which is mineral based.

The Magnatex 5W-40 (dealer order only variery) which is fully synthetic.

And the one used on Accord Euros is supposedly FMX Magnatec 10W-30 which is semi-synthetic. I know John Blair uses the FMX Magnatex 10W-30 on the EURO as per Honda recommendation, don't know who said they use FEO even though there are bottles and brochures of FEOs at John Blair's.


I think I'm going to try the full synthetic EDGE Sport 5W-30 next time :) As there are no fully synthetic 5W-30 or 10W-30 Magnatec varieties (makes oil flushing a bit hard anyway at oil change, though protective).

Castrol EDGE is the new label for the Castrol Formula R Synthetic(check the website), they also have a 25w-70 or something(for V8's)

I used Castrol Formula R 5w-30 in my girlfriends ED Civic and I give it the BIG THUMBS UP!! Makes it much easier to rev and fuel consumption has dropped markedly.

Formula R and Edge 5w-30 are a hydrocracked synthetic oil. They start with a mineral oil and break it down to the desired length so that it has the viscosity that they want. That's also why they are cheaper.

I use Formula R 0w-40 which is a PAO like Mobil 1. More expensive though.

I have an unopened bottle of Formula R 5w-30. Anyone wants to buy it off me? Hehe.

wow there's some decent info has been displayed in this thread :D:D
found something out the other day when shopping for oil for my MDX...
if anyway actually flip through the booklet by each oil makers u can see that there's a slight different on oil grades recommended by individual makers... i've used 5w-40 since 30,000km and when i looked at penrite they said 10w-30...

IMO.. honda cars don't like thick oils as the compression ratio is pretty high and which means there's less spaces for oil lubrications...
but i am a bit fan of motul... used x-cess fullsyn last time and am going to use it again!

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Originally Posted by aaronng

Formula R and Edge 5w-30 are a hydrocracked synthetic oil. They start with a mineral oil and break it down to the desired length so that it has the viscosity that they want. That's also why they are cheaper.

I use Formula R 0w-40 which is a PAO like Mobil 1. More expensive though.

I have an unopened bottle of Formula R 5w-30. Anyone wants to buy it off me? Hehe.

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Sorry, I think I'm a bit confused as yet. You say in the first sentence that Formula R and Edge 5W-30 are a hydrocracked/hydroprocessed synthetic oil right? Meaning its a Group III oil base stock.

But you are saying that the Formula R 0W-40 is PAO based, which the molecules are built from the ground up and is a Group IV Oil.


So what about the new Castrol EDGE 0W-40 then, which seems to have replaced the Formula R 0W-40 that you use. Seeing that this is what it says on the new EDGE bottles, also the fact that Formula R 0W-40 isn't being produced anymore according to their website?


Are you suggesting that the EDGE 5W-30 is a Group III whereas you didn't mention anything about the EDGE 0W-40 being a Group III or a Group IV base? But I assume the EDGE 0W-40 is a Group IV PAO based oil?


I cannot seem to find every information on the net on these oils, not helped by the fact that Synthetic Oils have different interpretations by everyone although I agree that PAO oil basestock are the best (except for Ester Based oils like Redline, which works well but doesn't last long).


Although I checked what I got, which are the properties of the new CASTROL EDGE 0W-40 vs the Mobil 1 0W-40. The Pour Point for the EDGE 0W-40 is -54C which is same as Mobil 1 0W-40, and to obtain that performance I thinkg and assume only a PAO is capable. Other measurements like High Temp High Shear Viscosity for both oils are nearly the same as well, 3.6 for Mobil 1 and 3.7 for Castrol Edge 0W-40.



Comparing the Mobil 1 10W-30 vs the Castrol EDGE Sport 5W-30 however, the Mobil 1 seems to have the edge (no pun intended) with the pour point being -45C and -38C respectively.



Getting conned by Castrol again.. :rolleyes: :confused:

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Originally Posted by Omotesando

Sorry, I think I'm a bit confused as yet. You say in the first sentence that Formula R and Edge 5W-30 are a hydrocracked/hydroprocessed synthetic oil right? Meaning its a Group III oil base stock.

But you are saying that the Formula R 0W-40 is PAO based, which the molecules are built from the ground up and is a Group IV Oil.

So what about the new Castrol EDGE 0W-40 then, which seems to have replaced the Formula R 0W-40 that you use. Seeing that this is what it says on the new EDGE bottles, also the fact that Formula R 0W-40 isn't being produced anymore according to their website?

Are you suggesting that the EDGE 5W-30 is a Group III whereas you didn't mention anything about the EDGE 0W-40 being a Group III or a Group IV base? But I assume the EDGE 0W-40 is a Group IV PAO based oil?

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Yup! You're right. Edge 0w-40 is also a Group IV. Everything from Formula R is carried over to the new name of Edge. I think they might have tweaked the formula, but the base stocks should be the same as the prices are about the same as when Formula R was being sold.

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Originally Posted by Omotesando

Comparing the Mobil 1 10W-30 vs the Castrol EDGE Sport 5W-30 however, the Mobil 1 seems to have the edge (no pun intended) with the pour point being -45C and -38C respectively.

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At 5W and 10W, the pour points are not really indicated by the number as 5 and 10 indicate the viscosity. They can make an oil that is more viscous, but stays at that viscosity to lower temperatures than a cheaper oil with lower viscosity but quickly "hardens" as the temperature drops. Misleading eh? Well, I'd expect Mobil1 10w-30 to have a lower pour point too, since it is a bloody expensive and good oil. Hehe.

I've read that generally, 5w oils have a pour point down to -40ºC, while 0w is the same viscosity as 5w, but the pour point is lower to -46ºC (lower by 10ºF). You know what this means? Mobil1 10w-30 (Gold) is a 10w that performs as well as a 0w oil in cold conditions! No wonder Porsche uses it in their cars.

Going from Mobil/Castrol whatever to FEO is fine. I've only ever used FEO for the 4 years in which I've owned my integra. Ask the guys who bought it. The engine was "beautiful"

When I recently bought my prelude vtir it had a mobil synthetic 0w-60 blend worth $80. The exhaust note sounded quite nice and the engine was smooth. When I recently got it professionally serviced (by Hannys) I went back to Honda FEO blend worth $27. Let me tell you, it is awesome! It sounds like a Honda vtec again...a high pitched scream and so eager to rev

Like the others have said. 10w is enough to protect your engine under most cold Australian conditions. Don't be confused by the 40 and 50 blend stuff. Think, a car spinning to 8000rpm will be more efficient using thinner oils. The thicker ones will just be restricting it, hence the reason why the S2000s and NSXs using 20. It lets the Honda scream! just make sure you keep it serviced every 5000ks if you drive it hard

this thread is pretty good...
you boys dont happen to work for an oil company do you...amzing insight

Hey guys, wat oil range should i be using for my car? Its done a little over 160k on the clock and currently running on 10 -30w FEO. Should I just stick to the same range? If I drive normally and only hit vtec like once or twice a week is it OK to leave the oil change to like 10000kms? Ive only done oil change once since I had this car which was like at 4500kms. Thanks.

Stick to 10w-30 if you can. You can go from 0w-30 up to 10w-40 with little change. But 10w-30 is the recommended one. Change your oil every 6 months or 10,000km. If you want to change sooner, it is fine. Honda FEO is cheap. :)

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Originally Posted by sleepyf1

Going from Mobil/Castrol whatever to FEO is fine. I've only ever used FEO for the 4 years in which I've owned my integra. Ask the guys who bought it. The engine was "beautiful"

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Cool, guess I can go back to FEO to save $$$ :D

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Originally Posted by elim

Cool, guess I can go back to FEO to save $$$ :D

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Just make sure you stick to the same viscosity, just in case you are running Mobil's 5w-50. :)

why cant i change viscouity b/w oil changes?

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Originally Posted by BlitZ

why cant i change viscouity b/w oil changes?

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You can go from a lower Viscosity to a higher one generally, especially if you are going on the track and want a bit more oil thickness to protect the parts.


But if your engine is used to the higher viscosity engine oil with a thicker protective oil film (which doesn't rev as good anyway), then the tolerance of all the moving parts, the valves, etc, will be used to the thicker oil, so when you put thinner oil into it won't be protective enough. Most likely you are going to start hearing a lot of weird metallic noises coming from within the engine :(




For people who don't really rev the car to VTEC so much, I think running 0W-40 is going to be the best oil to use. Saves you fuel in the long run, although the engine oil is going to be higher priced.


EDITED: I drive the car hard enough that I am scared to use 0W-40, but might give it a try next time, to see if it uses any oil with constant high revving. Thinner oil does so much on N/A engines, but got to be safe with it :)


I most often used Mobil 1's as people in the know have done lab tests with it, and it is really good, and so is ELF. Castrol's new engine oils sound good too but as aaronng said some of the synthetics, aren't really fully synthetic as it was originally devised that only PAO or Esters can be terms fully synthetic. So choose Castrol's carefully. :wave:

Nice explanation Omotesando! :thumbsup: !

I'm using 0w-40 now. Not consuming any oil (yet! fingers crossed).

With Castrol Formula R, the 0w-40 is a true synthetic like Mobil1 (PAO type) but the cheaper 5w-30 is a hydrocracked, which is a mineral oil that is broken down to the desired viscosity. While it is a synthetic because it has been altered, the starting material is still mineral oil!

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Originally Posted by elim

Cool, guess I can go back to FEO to save $$$ :D

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Plus the more money you save the more often u can afford to get it serviced :D

OKies, guys i just serviced my car to Honda's FEO. was using magnatec 10W-40, so will let you guys know how it goes after a few days of hard driving!!! I just came back from sydney and yeah Hit 90K kms on the clock so yeah. I service my car every 10K and oil change every 5K. Oh and Plus down here in Melb HONDA FEO is like 35 Bucks Its like WTF Grrrr.

In the end, changing your engine oil often is much cheaper than a new engine.

OK guys.. I know most of you guys can get Honda FEO oil from the dealers.. But can we get it anywhere else??

I've noticed that dealers and private shops sell them for about the same price.

Alot of Asian stores around the liverpool and farifield areas sell them

I just go to Peter Warren at which sells for $27...which is about standard

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Originally Posted by sleepyf1

I've noticed that dealers and private shops sell them for about the same price.

Alot of Asian stores around the liverpool and farifield areas sell them

I just go to Peter Warren at which sells for $27...which is about standard

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HAHAHAHAH mekong, turbo spares and ozzie spares. akakkaka
i think mekong is cheaper than honda.. (correct me if im wrong):thumbsup:

yeah mekong in canley vale are a good place to go

Where is this Mekong place?? Address?? plz..

Its in Vietnam isn't it?

Sure doesn't sound like anywhere in Aust!

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Originally Posted by johnn

Where is this Mekong place?? Address?? plz..

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look it up on yellows page.
just give em a call and ask for the price.

i usually get my oil, plugs, filters from there too.

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Originally Posted by EG30

Fuchs also offers a 0w20 oil for the au market.

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0w20 oil is designed for cleaning out the engine at idle for xx minutes between oil changes. In other words it's used to dislodge all the crud in the engine, and not designed for normal engine use.

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Originally Posted by johnn

Where is this Mekong place?? Address?? plz..

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It's on canley vale road near canley station. Opposite Richards on the park

Mekong Auto Spares
Flag no.242 Canley Vale Rd Canley Vale NSW 2166
ph: (02) 9724 0691 Motor Replacement Parts ;)

To me, if you plan to service your car every 5000km, then i guess its ok to use cheaper oils like Magnatec or FEO. But if you're servicing only every 10,000km then probably its alright to spend more on the more expensive Mobil1 or Motul. It also makes sense to use better quality oil if you're on longer service intervals, as they lasts longer than the cheaper mineral based ones. my two cents.... ;)

Hey Guys,

Ok after 5000KM i've been impressed with FEO. Slight fule economy of about 10-20Km's more than what i would get out of Magnatec. Feel the slight reving being more smooth than it was before. But for the price i think i might just stick to FEO. Thanks guys!

In my last oil change i used FEO for the first time. I'd have to say i was not impressed with this oil at all. My engine felt sluggish with this oil and didn't rev as easily as it used to (felt like a really thick oil, even tho its not).

Since then i have changed to Mobil Synth S (semi-synthetic) 10w-40. Engine feels MUCH better. Revs quicker and easier, and even sounds better with this oil.

I think i will continue to use Mobil Synth S from now on as its the same price as FEO ($30) and in my opinion a much better oil.

It depends on the history of oils you have used and how old the engine is etc... If you go from thick to thin oil, you may lose a bit of compression because the cylinders have adjusted for thicker oil.

And yea I use that Mobil Synth S stuff in my 250,000km Civic - its not bad oil :thumbsup:

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Originally Posted by VTECfreak

I think i will continue to use Mobil Synth S from now on as its the same price as FEO ($30) and in my opinion a much better oil.

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I'm in Melb and Honda dealer sold me FEO oil for $45... how could u guys get $30 !!! grumbel.. :(( Mobil Synth S next time.

is there any harm in ocasionally swapping from honda feo to fully synthetic..5-30 or 5-40?

i know i should be swapping b/w rating.. but how about quality?

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Originally Posted by twing

I'm in Melb and Honda dealer sold me FEO oil for $45... how could u guys get $30 !!! grumbel.. :(( Mobil Synth S next time.

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Call up every dealer in Melb. The price varies greatly.

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Originally Posted by twing

I'm in Melb and Honda dealer sold me FEO oil for $45... how could u guys get $30 !!! grumbel.. :(( Mobil Synth S next time.

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Dude shoot panda[CRX] a pm... he should beable to sort you out a cheaper bottle of FEO...

I pay 27.50 for my FEO