have i distorted my sump gasket.. or is it ok? [pic]

Hey guys.. just replaced my sump gasket on my b16a1

I am just concerned that i may have distorted the gasket too much which may lead to leaks..
http://i1.tinypic.com/nq8ubo.jpg

Basically when i removed the sump most of the bolts were quite loose (imo).. like i would do 1/4 of a turn with the ratchet then i could remove the ratchet and undo the bolt with the socket.. Also it looked as though the gasket has been previously replaced/fixed because there was gasket sealant all along the gasket..


So i basically cleaned it all up.. put a new gasket on with the bolts finger tight, then 80kg.cm then 120kg.cm torque (followed instructions from the integra b18 manual).. but yeah as u can see from the pics looks like it may be distorted/coming out too much (in quite a few spots)..

or is this all fine?


manual info:
http://tinypic.com/mbk6qu.jpg

bla just redid it again.. was zoning out so was going anti clockwise.. then clockwise (damn waiting for dinner bs :p). put some sealant (small line) all around..

plus i think my torque wrench is ****ed.. did 80kg and then 120kg.. and it was clicking from 80 sometimes.. bla

any feedback.. reckon it will be fine?

no, looks too tight to me...

i just did mine, and it did not squeeze out like that...

(but i used sealant all around it so i stopped tightening when that started to squeeze out...)

BTW - a low quality torque wrench will not read such low torque accuratly.... :(

if possible, start again

ok cheers tink..

i am now thinking.. rip the ****er off

sealant the **** out of it.. then **** off the torque wrench and do it by hand untill it squeezes out..

just do up the nuts first.. then do all of them clockwise starting from one nut..
bla

I did mine 20000k's ago, and it looked like I bolted it down too tight because it was sqeezing out worse than yours. However I haven't had a leak to this date. Also I have done a friends civic, and it bowed out aswell. I dunno if i'm doing it right or not, I'm just following Honda's steps. No leaks however. Maybe its like that?

thanks for that beast..

thats the thing really.. i do it as directed and it looks as though the gasket is distorted..
yet it says excessive tightening may distort it.. but how can u excessively tighten it if it has a torque rating.. bla

yeah I know exactly what you mean. The gasket isn't exactly cheap from honda either.

redid it for the third time.. perfectly to spec..

still comes out.. can even see some of the holes of the gasket near some of the bolts..

might just leave it be and see how it goes..

if anyone else could post their experiences with sump gasket installation it would be appreciated

http://i1.tinypic.com/nvaykp.jpg

mine was the same when i put it back on, never leaked.

stop re-tighting it cause u will probably sheer a bolt soon, lol. they have very small torque spec's. make sure u put gasket goo where it said too to stop oil leaking out near the crank pully/flywheel.

iv done a few of these in the past, its normal for them to squeese out like that.

I put a thin layer of sealant ( sensor safe ) around the gasket.






http://b16a2.kicks-ass.net/tech/sump-gasket.jpg

NO IT'S NOT OK! :mad:
http://i1.tinypic.com/oka6p4.jpg

looks like there are still leaks.

also see around the crank pulley there is some oil but not too much.. looks like the plastic guard.. anyone think that is leaking.. Do u normally get oil on the timing belt if the crank pulley gasket is leaking?

also there is oily residue around further down the car.. would that just be oil blown there?


might get a new gasket and different gasket sealant and maybe try tinkerbell's technique.. so tink did u put alot of gasket on and on both sides of the gasket? what brand gasket sealant u use too.. estimate of torque?


and other feedback?

dxs how long did you leave the silicon to dry before refilling the oil?

a day or so
maybe 18 hours

long enough seeming though ppl have success when basically using 0 sealant

could it be that my sump is warped or something
like it seemed as though my gasket was redone in the past.. a lot of red sealant on it..
has a minor dent in it too

but there are a shit load of bolts and the gasket is rubber and the sumpe seemed fine..
bla

How long does it say the sealant will dry on that tube?

Did you degrease both surfaces before sealing it?
I'm guessing there was excess oil on the gasket which may have caused a bad seal.
3.5L of gravity pressure would have easily seeped through if the oil stopped the sealant from making a good bond to both surfaces.

Personally I would use another brand and ensure both surfaces are completely dry.
And maybe place the sump on a flat surface with a torch inside, and check for inconsistancies, then lightly hammer it to make it completely flat.

sump seems fine.. yeah will prob use a different brand..
the selleys seems too kinda smooth for a good seal..


anyone have some recommendations?


+ i am still thinking maybe the crank seal is doing this? possible? and just running along the gasket??
errrrr

i use loctite silicon based.

9ftlbs torque on the pan bolts/nuts. 12.9Nm

Converter

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dxs

Do u normally get oil on the timing belt if the crank pulley gasket is leaking?
yes
also there is oily residue around further down the car.. would that just be oil blown there?
yes

might get a new gasket and different gasket sealant and maybe try tinkerbell's technique.. so tink did u put alot of gasket on and on both sides of the gasket?

no hardly any, like lightly buttered toast, very little sealant was squeezed out when i torqued it.

what brand gasket sealant u use too..

no *brand* - just "RTV (room temperature vulcanizing) silicone sealant"

estimate of torque?

"screwdriver tight" is what i used - i.e. i used a 10mm socet on the end of a screwdriver... then a 1/4 turn with 15cm long ring spanner...

and other feedback?

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i would find the exact source of the leak first, then solve it...

ok thanks tink.. i will try your method.. i purchased some new sealant and ordered a new gasket ($$$$ :( ) also gonna wrap my exhaust with heat wrap where the sump is... might help oil temps etc as well

this is ****en pissing me off..

i have tried it once using the honda workshop method... no luck
then i tried a hybrid method and used a lot of sealant... no luck

so took it to the local mech..
he tried it without sealant.. no luck
then he tried it with some 'gasket maker' that is meant for gearboxes or something that he says never fails.. he said it was ok.. i took it for a spin and it is back.. no luck

he said the sump is a little warped.. but it should still be fine..
so now he is going to try and source a new/2nd hand sump for a b16..

do b16a2 sumps fit b16a's? i would presume so.. i have heard b18's being used..


anyone have ideas.. u reckon the mech is incompetent? They said it wasnt the crank seal and the leak is coming from the passenger side..


bla

Quote:

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i would find the exact source of the leak first, then solve it...

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check all engine seals,

check under rocker cover, around the cam gears for signs of oil.
could be a cam seal thats leakin between the block and inner timing cover.

mech says no to cam seal
:/

also anyone know if a b18 sump will fit?

yes but will hang slightly lower