as above keeping stock internals and for street use only, i want to know the absolutely best turbo or turbo kits for a DC2R...
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as above keeping stock internals and for street use only, i want to know the absolutely best turbo or turbo kits for a DC2R...
Custom Built... period its all I recommend. Designed around proven products, from many different manufactures making your own custom setup. The Best is expensive ;) but its great when you have a endless supply of money you can really go to town on a setup.
Regards James
I must apologise in advance, because you're not going to like my response...however...
If you actually bother to research your questions a bit better, you will realise that :
a) How rediculous that question is.
b) This is not www.ozspoonfeedmehonda.com
either pick up a few books and read, or learn to use internet search engines to their full potential.
Either way, you need to read some more.
I couldnt have said it better myselfQuote:
Originally Posted by ProECU
*bitchslap High Five* :wave:
Maybe if you had come to us with im looking at brand X turbo with YZ mods then we could say sure that would work or NOPE that is going to cause more issues with the kinda driving you are doing etc.
the SSautochrome kit is by far the best :D
I wouldn't say by far the best, perhaps on par with OBX... maybe
the obx manifolds and the ssac manifolds are exactly the same...Quote:
Originally Posted by ProECU
and both the biggest pieces of shit to ever be constructed.
I absolutely knew someone would take this literally....
didn't expect it to be you sax.
AVO is pretty good, but they want the soul of ur firstborn in terms of price...
Quote:
Originally Posted by saxman
You get what you pay for. Remember that! I have a ssac mani. All I did was beef up the welds, clean them up, then deck the flanges so they would be perfect. Never had a problem with it. Of course I wouldn't run it for a race but for the street it does alright. Makes it easy to swap turbos out for the track and the street.
unfortunately when the flange and the runners are different materials, and low quality ones at that, it won't last.
and I figured you were being sarcastic, but I know those manifolds aren't as common on the foreign markets, so when I see them pop up on forums like this, I automatically go into "please for the love of god stay away from them" mode
It's not that the materials are always bad, it's that they are put together poorly. I found a bunch of bad welds. But for $300usd for a new garett turbo and a ssac mani I couldn't pass it up. I pretty much used the mani to help design my race mani to see what would fit and the bends I had to make. It was all stainless so the materials were good, just had to fix the welds.
whats the exact criteria?
like what is a rough power figure you want to achieve?;)
the ssac manifolds are notorious for using extremeley thin stainless for the runners, and mild steel for the flanges. A bad combo. Also, if the turbo you're refering to is the one that comes in the little kits they sell, they're not actually garrett turbos, are notorious for being very poorly balanced, and some even seem to be different sizes than what they claim to be(I've seen "t3/t4" turbos from ssac that look more like a t25, etc).Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow96GSR
Honestly, I don't think I'd try to minimic their design either for a new manifold. The collector is absolutely horrible, wastegate placement is pure crap, etc.
GReddy
It takes a tremendous amount of money and time to successfully increase the power of a naturally aspirated engine. With a GReddy bolt-on turbocharger kit you can obtain instant horsepower gains with less time and money while still having the potential for upgrading. Unlike most turbo kits on the market today, GReddy kits are designed specifically for driveability and reliability, as well as performance. Since they are based completely on stock engines, these kits come with all the necessary basics, including fuel enrichment. Many of the kits are covered under CARB E.O. numbers which make them 50-state street legal. If competition use is your goal, there are many GReddy upgrades (intercoolers, blow-off valves, fuel management and boost controllers) to boost the power output even further.
Ok best thing is price, deliverd to Perth $3328.26 if I ever decide to go forced induction this would be the way, keep the boost at max 7psi and it will run like a angel ;)
http://www.nengun.com/image/catalogu...oduct-1307.jpg
Yeah but you have a shitty E-Manage, 310cc injectors arent good enough. Intercooler isnt included in those cheaper prices. Plus the air filter is a horrible colour!
This is bolt on kit and all you need is there including intercooler, for normal boost you don't need anything else or anything bigger, go as recomended and it will be driveable and reliabile with good power increase, you wont get 200Kw at wheels but you will get good power and performance, of course you need to install and tune everything good in order for everything to run smoothly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by saxman
No, it was a guy who was piecing a kit together like me and totaled his car before he got it all together. I do agree the mani is poorly built but it's actually one of the nicer ones I've seen them make. I redid it over a weekend so it's 100% better, but as I said it's only for street. I use my nice one for racing. People here would see it and want me to make them one and then get mad at the price they would have to pay. Damn Americans want shit for free!!
~ well, if you can get me one without an e-manage, with bigger injectors, and an intercooler kit, including piping, for that price, I might actually buy it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Malenic1981
But, as I said, it doesn't have big enough injectors, it's a very basic kit, and he wants to know the 'best' kit for a DC2-r.
Which, as people like BLKCRX, saxman, PRO-ECU etc etc, all say, it's best to do it yourself, save some cash and make better results.
3400 bucks is a lot. I hope that's AUD because for about 1500-2k USD you can build your own kit and it would have better parts. Sure Greddy is nice and all but it's overpriced and over rated. Most big name kits are. By the time you hit that price you're looking at a T-60 water cooled turbo with a custom manifold, big fmic, pipes, 440+ injectors, basic Hondata or AEM EMS, and all the other parts. Not to mention ones you want and will work best for the application. Maybe some internal parts. Everything you can install yourself but I would have a pro do the tuning. All you need is a basic know how and some tools. Hardest part is finding oil and water hook-ups.
There's mroe than enough threads started here and on other forums to get you started and I am sure there are so DIY's here on installing it yourself. If you are really wanting to get a big name kit and you want the best bang for your buck try the Edelbrock kits. They are for the D16Y8, B16A2, and D16Z6. Comes with the Intake manifold, secondary fuel rail and injectors. Best kit I've seen for a while. It does have a T28 water cooled ball bearing turbo. Not big but it's a good entry turbo. I think they have a few new options coming out for 06 so keep an eye open.
Displacement range: 1.6-2.5L.
Output Range 200-280 horsepower.
Compressor Wheel Diameters – 1.83” inducer/ 2.37” exducer
Compressor Wheel Trim – 60
Compressor Housing A/R – .60
Compressor Hsg. Attachments: Inlet: 2-bolt flange
Outlet: 3-bolt flange
Max Compressor Flow – 31 lbs/min @ 2.5:1 pressure ratio
Turbine Wheel Diameters – 2.09” inducer/ 1.64” exducer
Turbine Wheel Trim – 62
Turbine Housing A/R – .64
Turbine Hsg. Attachments: Inlet: Standard 4-bolt T25 flange,
Outlet: Standard OEM 5-bolt T25 flange
Oil Inlet – Inverted Flare 7/16-24 thread
Oil Drain – Standard 2-bolt T25 flange
edelbrock uses a gt28r as far as I'm aware... little bit of a step above a t28 ;)
hey type-r617, ive got a custom built turbo setup in my dc2r which should be tuned and running on 8/3/06. im thinking about selling it because of finances at the moment but im running standard internals.
quick specs on the setup are : gt3040 turbo 480hp, ignition system, bosch fuel pump, gtr injectors, power fc, intercooler, manifold, braided lines.
private msg me if ur interested. note: it should produce over 200kw@wheels easily but ill let u know after its tuned if ur interested.
oops, forgot to mention its high mounted and its using a 44mm tial wastegate.
your going to achieve that 200kw with stock internals?
i dont mind running kits. For many people on the street, they are a good cheap option that will give them less hassles.
sure hope so :)
ill post up pics of the car after i get it dyno'd at c&v this wednesday and ill scan the dyno chart.
they aren't cheap options though... that's half the reason people make set ups themselves, because the kits charge out the ass for the same parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by pornstar
in the usa thats true, but in australia thats not :)
yah... in australia they just charge you even more out the ass for the kits ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by pornstar
i reckon its the same thing depending on who u get the parts off and how much labour ur getting charged. :)
Totally agree!Quote:
Originally Posted by saxman
No where near the same, even if you get charged a bit more for parts :) Also to note usually you end up with better parts then the kit tooQuote:
Originally Posted by AH_HUH
it's not as much that you get better parts, but that you have more control over the quality of parts. Because you get to purchase each part, you know exactly what you're getting, and it's far easier to get quality parts.
Going from personal experience, I got better parts :)
EG. No dodgy fuel management, injectors etc