error 22 on ecu.. EF8 (b16a1)

Alright.. basically here is the story.

I have an EF8 which has an b16a1 stock. When i bought it it came with stock headers and a spoon vtec controller.. which looks like this
http://www.tokyo-express.co.uk/spoon...controller.jpg

basically plugs into the ecu and the original ecu cables plug into it.


Anyway i had and still have an oil leak so did the sump gasket to try to stop it and got some new SS headers at the same time. I also removed the vtec controller because i have heard bad things about these/had no use for it.

Ok so i have hardly driven the car but when the vtec controller was in and the stock headers.. vtec would kick in depending on when it was set.. ie no engine lights..

So yeah i took the car out for a spin the other day, and i couldnt recall hitting vtec. And then i got to a round about, the car was warm and so was the temp outside, so took it beyond 5.2k rpm 2nd gear and then i get engine light. Go home and check the ecu code and it is 22 which is vtec valve.

So anyway today i play around with the wires near the vtec solenoid (i think) but they look all fine, so i take it for a drive.. i guess the car is a little cooler to begin with, and rev the car in 3rd or 2nd and get vtec happening.. then i drive a little more put into 2nd, rev, and engine light comes on and no vtec.. same code..



So yeah, just wanting some feedback. Basically it seemed fine with the vtec controller (never drove it much though).. But now vtec sometimes doesnt kick in.

Now i am sus on the headers.. they have no heat shielding.. is it possible for the oil or something to get too hot and then vtec doesnt kick in.. but why would u get an error code..


thoughts? (+ soz for long post)

the vtec controller eliminates the vtec pressure valve, thats why vtec is working consistantly for you when its installed.

don't worry about your header, it shouldn't cause this problem. Take the solenoid off and check the wire screen underneith. Give it a good clean!

Check your oil also, it might be time for a change? or top it up if its low.

regards
Lloyd

thanks mate..

oil level is fine and the oil has been changed 3 times in 1000 k's

anyone have a write up or something for cleaning and removing the valve?

and it is normal for the valve to be inconsistant? like sometimes work and sometimes not? or work less when hotter?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dxs

thanks mate..

oil level is fine and the oil has been changed 3 times in 1000 k's

anyone have a write up or something for cleaning and removing the valve?

and it is normal for the valve to be inconsistant? like sometimes work and sometimes not? or work less when hotter?

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it seems to be more of an issue on older b16a engines. I'm not sure about the temperature issue, but heat can limit the life of alot of things i guess. Its easy to clean the screen under the solenoid.

Simply undo the three 10mm bolts at the top where the finger is pointing to (only two are visible in this pic, there is one behind the solenoid) and disconnect the plug fore the solenoid. You'll see the screen under that. give it a clean and see how you go. This has worked for alot of people apparently.

http://b16a.honda-perf.org/Tech/vtecsolenoid.jpg

ok cheers.. will give it a shot over the weekend..

anyone else have anything to add?

also i have error 22
"21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 VTEC pressure valve "

just confirming.. just incase you may be thinking of 21 which is the solenoid valve.. the pressure valve is the same thing though?

Check wiring around ecu, plugs,
wiring for (vtec)(A8)green, and (vtm)(B5)blue

Refer to this link for Pr3/Pw0 wiring

http://www.hondata.com/techwiringpw0.html

yeah your vtec controller intercepts the signal to the ECU from VPS (etc) but if you removed your vtec controller there may be a broken link in the chain.. ie. your solenoid (etc) wires may not actually reach the ECU anymore. You'll find that if your VTEC solenoid screen is clogged it wont throw a code for VPS or anything. the code says to me a wiring issue. check your wiring from the solenoid (etc) to your ECU's correct pinouts and then if they are all fine, is prob an earth.

ok will have a look at that as well..

but the thing is vtec kicked in a couple of times then it didnt after the 3rd try from one drive

http://i1.tinypic.com/okajwl.jpg

here is a pic of a the solenoid and switch.. anyone know if that wiring is ok?
looks like only 1 wire from the solenoid..
can someone else with a b16a1 get a pic of the same area so i can compare.. i dont know if they last owner has done anything to it..

also could a mod maybe move this to the tech forum?

anyone?

anyone know if i need a new switch.. it is the green thing yeah? and all the wires are fine? i took for another spin and no vtec i dont think..

can i get these cheap new from honda? how anout installing them any dramas? can i get them from other vtec b series cars etc?

suggestions?

Moved as requested :)

ive got a spare vtec solenoid setup if u need it

cheers weq.. i might pm you in the near future..

i will give it a clean tomoz and recheck all the wires..
just wondering if anyone knows if the wire setup is correct how it is.. or has the previous owner modded it as well..

i installed some heat wrap on the header around the sump to make the oil a little cooler hopefully.. hasnt changed anything.. but this is to be expected

Here's a pic of my setup, and no it's not the green thing..that's a sensor. it's the thing that has black wire with a white plug on the end coming from it.. next to the cam end plug.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d3...c/P1010140.jpg

thanks mate.. so it is the metal cyclinder thing..


i will give it a clean tomoz and see how i go


the wiring looks the same compairing our pics too

removed it today to have a look inside..
and noticed that there is sealant as well as the gasket.. and the gasket looks/is a bit warped/damaged..

so i am guessing it was leaking previously and someone fixed the leak by using sealant.. because i removed the sealant and cleaned it up but it would leak.. so now i used new sealant..

also the mesh was pretty clean so no worries with that

also the metal cyclinder with the hole.. was a little popped up and i could push it down a little.. and there was dry sealing around its edges..

anyone know if i should be able to push it down? and silcone gasket isnt normally needed is it?

i will try to get a new gasket soon and see how i go..

as always a pic:
http://i2.tinypic.com/qqpqq1.jpg

There are another 3x10mm bolts holding it to the head with another gasket in between, take the whole thing off and give it a good cleanout with carby clean, the dry sealing around the edges of the metal cylinder is oil, the metal cylinder should move freely.
Part numbers for the 2 gaskets> 15825-pr3-005, 36172-pr3-005.

cheers mate.. will give this a shot in the near future.. i still have a badish oil leak that is hard to source so it is going to a mech before i finalise this issue..

obviously someone has been tinkering with the switch in the past.. seeming though there isnt supposed to be sealant in there.. so i guess it has had issues before.
also ordered the gasket for a gen3 crx.. see if that fits too

anyway i will post if i have success

ok.. so i believe the switch IS the green thing as i said earlier by looking at an EPC..

does anyone think i need to replace that? any ideas on new cost?

have you considered bypassing it?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EGB16A

have you considered bypassing it?

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explain?

well i had a vtec controller.. but i want to keep that out (gets annoying if u accident hit it.. and it is pointless)


so what is the point of the switch if u can bypass it?

the switch (green plug) does not allow VTEC to engage if there is not enough oil pressure.

you MUST check you have correct oil pressure before even considering bypassing it... (get a oil pressure gauge and connect to the back of the block where the OEM oil pressure sensor is)

to TEST the switch - borrow one from a friendly Ozhonda member in your area - any volunteers???

thanks tinkerbell.. just the info i was after

maybe i will get an aftermarket one and see how i go.. fun fun :/

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tinkerbell

the switch (green plug) does not allow VTEC to engage if there is not enough oil pressure.

you MUST check you have correct oil pressure before even considering bypassing it... (get a oil pressure gauge and connect to the back of the block where the OEM oil pressure sensor is)

to TEST the switch - borrow one from a friendly Ozhonda member in your area - any volunteers???

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do you know what the oil pressure should be? My bodgy oil pressure guage reads about 50 psi on idle about 60 at mid range and about 80 (from memory) on top end.
is that about right?

HOT oil should be 10-20psi at idle (around 800rpm)

and quickly jump to 40ish above 1500rpm

and then hit a solid 60-80ish above 2500rpm and stay there till redline.

these are readings to expect from a healthy engine - which is what yours sounds like...


Dxs - what do you mean by "i will get an aftermarket" one?

i meant an aftermarket oil pressure gauge..
i doubt i will now.. too poor

looking at getting a 2nd hand switch and seeing how i go

oh, and the answer to your original post (which i think needs to be answered) is that the wire from your semnsor to teh ECU might be cut/disconnected due to the VTEC controller...

what sort of ECU is yours? look at the code is it PR3 or PW0?

thanks tinkerbell.. ur a champ

i believe EF8's are all PR3

the thing is that vtec has worked a couple of times without the engine light coming on.. so i am hoping it is a faulty switch.. i cant see any cut wires in the bay itself.. although it does look like some of the stock cable ties for the wires have cracked etc, which gets me thinking if the cables have been tampered with, but i doubt it.. might check the ecu cables now to see if they are fine.. but they looked fine if i recall correctly

i am trying to source a b16a1 pressure switch and setup off a member of this forum.. we will see how that goes

edit: just checked the ecu.. has a serial numbers of XXXXX-PW0-XXXXX
so it is a pw0 then

check you have continuity between B5 on the ECU and the pressure switch connector... (middle black plug, blue wire with black stripe)

if continuity exists, it must be a faulty sensor OR you have low oil pressure.

thanks tinkerbell i did inspect the ecu plugs and they all seemed fine (as in i could not see any that looked like they had been cut etc..

The vtec controller i had was a spoon one, as mentioned in my first post.. these have kinda middle man plugs, ie the controller plugs into the ecu and the original plugs plug into the controller.. hence u dont have to cut any ecu wires etc like other controllers for it to work.. simple plug and play application..

anyway i just payed for a pressure switch and the rest of the 'assembly' (i presume solenoid etc etc) off a XSI integra.. so hopefully i will have a tinker and see what happens

Just thought i would update this thread just incase someone uses it as reference in the future and wants to know the conclusion.


Basically i recieved a vtec assembly a couple weeks back which is the solenoid and the pressure switch etc etc, the things that control vtec that are bolted to the head.

Basically undid the 3 bolts attaching the old one, cleaned the replacement one up a bit with some carb cleaner.. and bolted the new one on..

the one that was already on there also had some gasket sealant on the gasket that joined it to the head, so it looks like someone has removed it before..


anyway bolted on the replacement, also check all the holes on the head that allowed the oil to flow to the assembly.. warmed the car up got some fuel and took it for a spin.. got into vtec a good 5 or so times no worries.

so inconclusion i would say my old vtec pressure switch had something faulty with it..

:)

Fantastic. Good to hear you got it sorted. How much did that gear set you back? Brand new or used?

Thanks

Jase

got the assembly 2nd hand off spardakis (sp?) from these forums.. 80 bucks delivered
i am sure honda would have wanted a packet for it new.. but such items should be found fairly cheaply seeming though there are a lot of B series engines in pieces all over the joint.



:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dxs

got the assembly 2nd hand off spardakis (sp?) from these forums.. 80 bucks delivered
i am sure honda would have wanted a packet for it new.. but such items should be found fairly cheaply seeming though there are a lot of B series engines in pieces all over the joint.



:)

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a bit of a late reply, but i'm glad to see you got everything sorted, and at an excellent price too!!! I have the same problem, so i ordered the pressure sensor and solenoid through a member of these forums, which worked out considerably cheaper compared to the ~$450 my local honda dealer wanted :thumbdwn: