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hey guys
theres afew ways, but anyone know of a good way? i need to bypass the factory map sensor so it doesnt see boost, considering it was NA.
afew are, one way valves, FPR's have been adapted and apparently work well, changing voltage output i think, etc.
any other ways? just so the ECU doesnt see any, or if not, too much boost.
cheers.
the proper way would be to use an ecu that allows tuning with the ecu seeing boost. You don't want the ecu not to see boost, you want it to know what to do with it.
If you insist on doing it, look at something like a missing link on ebay
do it properly and have a pro modify yoru ecu to suit boost,
search the net and you can find all you need to do it your self if your brave enough
it's really not that difficult to do yourself if you're at all competent with a soldering iron. Really, the hardest part of all of it is just desoldering all the holes needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by ECU-MAN
urrrm...soo.....how? lol
just want a quick fix.
what fual management are u currently using??
a mechnical fix is using a check valve or 'missing link'.
just FPR and pump for now, and safc. just want it at least driveable. where can i get a check valve or missing link? will it work for now?
Couldn't you just put it on the intake side of the turbo?? That way the air wouldn't be compressed by there would be alot more air flow then normal.
Does the MAP sensor just measure Pressure?? or does it do air flow as well??
If it only does pressure you should be able to put it on the inlet side of the turbo which will give you an uncompressed reading.
It's a Mass Air Pressure sensor, it measures pressure in the manifold.
Its not an air flow meter, you cant relocate it before the turbo.
BKN, you need to stop being tight, and do the job properly.
if you sell the fpr, pump, and safc, you could easily afford some injectors and chip the ecu with uber/crome. Even on just a basemap, it would be FAR superior to what you're trying to do now in every possible way.Quote:
Originally Posted by bkn_computers
If you have any questions about doing that, let me know, I'd be happy to help. Hell, I'll even make you a basemap.
If you have any more questions on using check valves/making the fpr work/making the safc work, you're on your own. I refuse to assist in someone doing the absolute worst thing you can do to a turbo honda.
Engine management is THE MOST IMPORTANT part of a turbo set up. Cut corners elsewhere, but not there.
i have my reasons. i know its not correct but i need to know how to bypass it. check valves havent done the job so far not sure how the missing links work.
you sure you have the check valves installed correctly? there's no reason they shouldn't work if used "properly"
installed in between throttle body and map sensor? check valves? you mean valve or valves? i only need one dont i? just to restrict the vacuum flow to the MAP correct?
I've always seen it done like this
http://www.cse.uconn.edu/~yelevich/turbo/t3.jpg
multiple valves are used to ensure boost is really being bled off... also make sure they can blow the air out of the line, not suck it back in. wouldn't want the valves installed backwards
yep i had that exact setup too. didnt work too well.
were you using multiple valves?
what do you mean by it wasn't working too well?
very unstable idling, up and down, up and down. i had 3 valves like the pic. also tried one. several ways, didnt work.
sound like you had a vacuum leak somewhere. did you try blowing through the valves yoursef to make sure they were all working properly?
Whereas it's best to use a proper ECU your next best alternative would be to use an electronic boost signal hider with a rising rate regulator. This device takes the signal from the MAP and passes it to the ECU but limits it to a max value. It 'caps' the signal.
Comptech make the ESM
http://www.comptechusa.com/store/med...SM-NEW2005.pdf
Vortech use the Split Second VC1
http://www.splitsec.com/products/vc1/vc1ds.htm
I'm sure there are other local and cheaper alternatives but I'm not aware of them.
a trip to jaycar and im sure someone will u will be able to make a circut which limits voltage to 2.95v.
does the exact same thing as this, only electronically versus mechanically
Spending more money to do the same crappy job is pointless... spend the money on a real engine management. Don't go throwing more money at a horrible solution.