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I'm gonna hook up an Audison SRx3 Amplifier to the stock Honda Stereo (6CD non-MP3) using the Rear Speaker wires for Audio Input.
My question is, the Amp requires a single Remote-In wire to turn on/off the Amp, is this available from the stock stereo?
Or do I need to run an Ignition wire from somewhere?
(If so, where can this be found?)
u mite get a better response in audio forum... got sum experts in there, so *moved*
if no luck and u want it back in accord, pm me
u can hook it up to anything that onli turns on wen ur ignition is turned on... so things like.. auto antenna wire.. or to ur ignition.. this wire doesnt really use power.. its just a switch to turn the amp on... just poke around for a wire in ur boot that onli turns on wen the ignition is on.. n use that.Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroDude
So the Euro HU's dont have REM?
Thats cool i'll poke around for a suitable wire.
The Euro's have a built-in antenna in the window so I dont thik they are powered.
I guess I could rig a suitable wire from the in-cabin fuse box.
If there is an easier way, let me know :thumbsup:
it won't have a dedicated remote, but you can use the accesory wire from the back of the head unit.
Thanks destruks, would you happen to know the colour of the wire?
I couldnt find it in this PDF (but its only for <1998)
http://www.installdr.com/walkoffhome.../HA-Wiring.pdf
I used an actual switch and mounted it next to the vsa button so i can just flick it on and off when i want..
you might not like that option.. but its just an idea
Yeah I thought of that, but I always listen to music so a switch would be a hassle.
Plus there is the chance of forgetting to turn it off - resulting a flat battery :o
fair enough, lol well if i turn off the car and dont switch off the amp.. the sub just makes a loud noise.. so yeah, kinda reminds me.
and hey.. it also looks cool aswell.. like a lil nos button. haha
now from memory the antenna on the euro is mounted in the glass and has a powered booster for it to work. that booster gets powered by the head unit, the trick is to find it without doing damage to the head unit (or anything else for that matter) and find out if the trigger stays on while playing CD. if it does then that solves your amp trigger issue, if not then you will need to get an accessories wire to power the amp, dont use ignition to turn on your amp as you dont want the reds staying on while your car isnt running as you dont know how many other items turn on via ignition :)
in a nutshell hahahahaha
I found where the Accessory connector is (in the middle compartment), but its 10amps :eek:
Would this be safe to use as a Remote-In for my Audison Amp?
10Amps sounds a bit hectik. (The Audison Remote-In specs say 7-15v 1mA)
[edit] I'll need to do some poking around with the multimeter, maybe I can rig a wire up the the antenna wire itself in the back. (erm, the antenna is in the rear window right?)
what that means is that the amp trigger will draw from the supply no more than 1 milliamp of current, its safe to connect there :D
might want to go and have a read of a beginners site and it goes a little like this www.bcae1.com which stands for Beginners Car Audio and Electronics 1 :)
Yeah thats what I thought but I wasnt so sure.
thanks for the info :)
no probs :)
Another question ...
Would it be better to run the Amplifiers Power Cable on the left or right side of the car?
(Basically I need to run the PCable away from the Rear Speaker cables to avoid engine audio noises)
I noticed there's alot of cabling on the left, but I havent checked the right side.
I'm guessing the stock speaker cables run through the left...
The problem is, its going to be tricky running it on the right because the power cable goes throught the left side firewall.
run it the same side as the battery, save some money on cable rather than have the cable run around the car that could induce engine noise.
U mean buy shielded cable?
umm, dont remember anyone (reputable supplier) making sheilded power cable...
I may look for some shielded power cable, or at least test my current cable running along the left before I install it properly.
when i said i dont remember anyone making shielded cable, that means that you dont need it even if someone did make it as it doesnt work if someone wanted to make shielded power cable
I see, oh well I'll try to just keep the pcable a fair distance from the speaker wires.
I'm gonna tap into the Accessory Plug (actually its wires, not the plug itself) in the center console, I just gotta figure out how to pull it apart... hopefully its just a few screws here and there.
Concerning the Amp's Earth Cable, is it safe to connect it to the Fuel Pump(?) Earth Bolt on the Euro?
Here is a pic (The bolt is at the end of that upper black cable above the white dome thing)
http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/2343/dscf11816eb.jpg
i'd advise against earthing there, lets says hypothetically you have a fuel leak and you dont actually see it but can smell it, now if the earth comes loose for some reason it will create arching (sparks) that could ignite the fuel vapour...
look for another bolt else where, make sure you sand the metal back also and use a bit of vasoline, it will help to stop rust and it is conductive too so no worries using vaso :)
Vasoline is conductive? Didnt know that.
Yeah I think you have a point - I'll look for another location to be safe.
thx
vaso works, not in the sense of conductive like metal, i meant that it helps prevent rust but lets current still flow unlike grease.
Thought I might as well post my solution if anyone else installs their own amp...
I ended up connecting the Amp's Remote-In wire to the back of the 12v Accessory plug in the center console.
1. Lift out the rubber base in the center console
2. Unscrew the screw holding in the Accessory plug assembly.
3. Lift out the Accessory plug and detach the black electrical plug
4. Solder one end of the Remote-In wire to a small O-ring connector and put some heatshrink around the exposed metal (because the plugs' positive connector is pretty close to the negative connector).
5. Unscrew the two screws holding the large rear cover of the center console (where the ash tray goes into), gently pull off the rear cover.
6. Unscrew the small screw on the Accessory plug's positive terminal and put the Remote-In O-ring connector over the screw hole, screw the screw back in. Then roughly route the Remote-In wire under the Console and re-attach the black accessory connector and screw the accessory module back in the center console
7. Route the Remote-In wire under the center console and through the rear (you can squeeze your hand under the console through the rear to grab the Remote-In wire), then cable-tie the Remote-In wire to that existing black wire already under there, so it doesnt interfere with the handbrake mechanizm.
8. With the Remote-In wire coming out of the rear of the console, route it under the carpet (this is tricky!) and through under the rear seats and into the boot. You may want to electrical-tape down the wire.
9. Re-assemble the center console.
Sit back and admire your professional work :p
you have to be pretty careful with that setting
do you know if your amp can receive high voltage currents from the stock head units? if it cant, you might risking blowing ur amp.
another thing is, you might risking damaging ur stock speaker.
Na its all good. Ive been running the amp for a week now with no probs and i'm sure the Italian Audison amp takes any 12v Remote-In source - i just takes what power it needs.
Yeah the stock Euro rear 6x9 speakers are not the best, but supprisingly they actually sound 'ok' running off the Amp and provide decent volume without distortion (not very good sound clarity though). Im using the Amp's high pass filter so they are only getting mid+high frequencies. They have terrible bass, but thats where my Sub comes in ;) eventually gonna get some decent 6x9's anyway.
:thumbsup:
If you already have a nice setup, why dont u change the front speaker as well? it will sound awesome :)
for those who changes the front speaker, do you still put the tweeters at the stock location or do you guys change it? I put the tweeters at the stock location, so the staging is not really that good. any inputs?
Eurodude, sorry to hijack ur thread a bit with my question :)
Are the tweeters ontop of the dash in the corners? Or are they next to the front door speakers?
I'm not fussed about the fronts and always fade to the rear. i prefer the sound coming from further away so I can hear the traffic better.
i put the tweeters in that small place at the corners of the dash, where stock tweeters are located. Sound wise, they are beautiful, but staging wise, its not that good.