buying a cheap car - What to look at etc

Hey guys as some know I'm selling my accord soon and picking up one cheaper and planning on doing an h22a transplant. I was looking around the other day and found one going for $4000 which is dam cheap. Now its done about 216k and the paint work needs some fixing but I was wondering, since I'm upgrading the engine, stereo, suspension and wheels, and getting a respray to white, its comming from a dealer and has a road worthy certificate and rego to the end of the year. What else should I be looking at so the car is in perfect nic and any other dodgy things to fix. If I can pick it up at this price, basically I'll have around $6k + to work on it with selling my car, I'm pretty sure thats enough to get it runnin perfectly?
Note i dunno whether ill be buying this car but I will be purchasing a cheap accord so these questions relate to all of it. :)

RACQ check!

wats that? is that where u check up whether it was finance on it or an accident history etc?
I was thinking of doing an nrma inspection on any of the vehicles I inspect.

nrma = racq = racv = ract = aaa = all state roadside assistance companies that do vehicle mechanical inspections. they look over your car to tell you whats wrong etc.

The other thing that I would personally be looking at is to make sure that the car doesnt have significant rust. While panels can be treated and re-painted, it would be easier to simply buy a car that doesnt have the same issues.

oK, another thing tho, since i'm replacing the engine, shocks, lights, wheels, interior and exhaust, since the car is kinda old and has alot of k's to it, what else should I look to be upgrading (only if I have to), otherwise will the nrma inspection just show me exactly what I need to fix and then it'll be perfect? I'm sure last time I got an nrma inspection they missed a couple of things.

edit: zdster kinda answered sum of it there :) ta man

In NSW the check for debts owing is http://www.revs.nsw.gov.au/
But before you do a REVS check you need to have the car's rego, VIN/Chassis Number as well as the engine number. The REVS cheque is also an indicator of mis-matched engine and chassis. It's free if you do it online but cost 12bux if you want the certificate, provides a little piece of mind but then i've heard stories about people who've done the proper checks and all but still had the vehicle reposessed...

Things to check:
Panel allignment

You've said the paint isn't in the best condition so look for rust.
Look out for corrision, car's parked around salt water can have some sort of corrosion. Saw this on a civic i was looking at, had rough spots all over the engine (rocker cover, throttle body).

When test driving it, more often than not the salesperson will always turn on the radio and/or the aircon. Have them on for a little while just to test if it's all working then turn it all off. Then listen out for any noises that seem out of the ordinary.

Take a look under the car, if possible get the car jacked up and put on some stands or hoisted up and see if the underbody is consistant. ie is the whole underbody consistantly dirty? or are there bits and pieces which stand out and look much newer, because that could mean something happened and it was recently replaced (may be a good thing or a bad thing)

Stop the car, turn the steering wheel to full lock and give it some gas. Repeat again but in the opposite direction. If its smooth then its all good, if you hear a clicking noise then somethings up.

Or as the dealership if they'll allow and NRMA check. Some believe that it's well worth the money to have the NRMA do an inspection on the car and others believe it's a waste of time but at least it may provide you with some assurance on the condition of the car.


That's all i can think of from the top of my head.

GOODLUCK with the purchase!!!

Ta man thats the stuff im looking for! I'm kinda a noob when lookin at cars
thanks for the comments guys! :)

I recently just got myself an ek1, took me 3 months of searching to find a decent one!!! My dad's also a mechanic so that helped out in the search (although sometimes it made it worse). Do the research on that particular model using www.redbook.com.au or something like that or better yet a search on OH.

I remember 2 particular dealerships. One dealership which stocked a fair amount of civics actually asked me what the difference between a cxi and gli was... I just found it funny how a salesmans asks a customer to clarify what model has what features.

At the other dealership, i was looking at getting a Corolla (05 model). The Corolla's were detuned from Oct 2005 to meet new emission laws so the power decreased from 100kw down to 93kw. I asked the salesman what's the build date of the particular car since i wanted the one with the 100kw engine. He asked me why i wanted to know the build date and i explained to him about the power decrease. This was his reply:

Quote:

---

oh...yes. I remember that now. They decreased the kilowatts to reduce fuel consumption but they've increased the horsepower.

---

So just be sure you know as much as possible about that particular model because sales people don't know everything.

its done quite a bit 216k

As Fr3aKi3 mentioned (good post Fr3aKi3), I would also look at panel alignment and also interior condition (usually is a good indication of if the car has had a hard life).

Check the drivetrain if you are not swapping it too. That includes CV joints and boots, driveshafts, hubs.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by aaronng

Check the drivetrain if you are not swapping it too. That includes CV joints and boots, driveshafts, hubs.

---

Any tips on how to do that aaronng (for the uninitiated like me :)).

Well, for boots, take off the wheel and check the rubber part behind the hub. Check for cracks. If you can't reach in, check for greasiness around the hub area and the rear of the rims (when the rubber boot cracks, the grease inside comes out).

For bearings, driveshaft or CV joints, listen for knocking noises when turning a tight circle. Do it in both directions. But I think it's better to get the car checked out by your trusted mechanic. At least they know what to look out for (some mechanics like to tell you everything is worn out, so that might work in your favour :D )

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Zdster

...(good post Fr3aKi3)...

---

Thanks Zdster :)

The full lock turning manouvere i mentioned before can give a good indication of CV joint issues, ie if it clicks that's a sign of a worn CV Joint. But you gotta give it more than than usually, so it's kinda abrupt. Also take a few left and right hand turns at a smooth constant speed.

Somethings that get overlooked are thigns such as the power windows, test each one individually. Listen to the exhaust, if sounds loud like an aftermarket one but is actually stock then chances are theres a hole somewhere in the muffler.

Fr3aKi3 just reminded me of something. Check the windows for vertical scratches. Older Accords tend to have the window felt worn out and it ends up with the windows being horribly scratched (happened to our 94' Accord).

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by chunky

its done quite a bit 216k

---

its a 12 year old car so most have those types of K's, engine wise it doesnt matter cause I'll be replacing the engine, I just want to know what I should be lookin for in an old car aswell as what else I should be looking to replace that would of been affected from such an amount of k's driving + age if you get me,
Fr3aKi3 things like exhaust don't really bother me much if theres a hole in it, i'll be getting a full exhaust so I'll be replacing it.

thanks for the replies guys, helped me alot. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
lol i'll have to print this out in a checklist or something, the dealer might get anxious and freak out if theres some guy comming to inspect a car and hes doing all the things you guys mentioned lol :)

yeah, i didn't really think the exhaust thing was gonna apply all that much since you'll be modded the car.

216kms is i think average for a car that's 12years old, I've 96-98 model civics will 200 000kms. Freaking out the dealer might be a good thing, who knows they might buckel and give you an even better deal! lol

Good info. guys. Thanks for enlightening us all :thumbsup:.

Great info!

with the REVS check. Whas the point in getting a certificate? Is that so if someone attempts to reposses the car you have that as a backup or sumfin?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Iwishiwasa Type R

Great info!

with the REVS check. Whas the point in getting a certificate? Is that so if someone attempts to reposses the car you have that as a backup or sumfin?

---

basically in my understanding, if you have a REVS cert then they cant reposses it coz its on paper that it doesnt have any money owing or anything...


I have a question bout REVS also... when buying from a dealer, should we still do a REVS check or are you covered coz u bought from an authorised dealer?

no revs check needed form a dealer.. I am 100% sure of that..
they give you a tax invoice stating that they are the owners.
thats one of the very few pluses buying form used car dealers. :p

Inspection checklist
Inspect in bright light and when it's dry
Accident damage or rust
Check inside the boot, the floor wells, doors and lower sills for red or other dark stains, dimpled or bubbled paint. Use a soft fridge magnet to check panels for plastic body filler.

A vinyl roof may conceal rust or other damage.

Hail damage
Found mainly on horizontal panel surfaces (eg, bonnet, roof, boot lid). If hail damage is evident, check with your insurance company - they may not insure the car until it's fixed.

Panel fitment
Loose panels may indicate accident damage or that the car has been regularly driven over rough roads.

Doors and boot lid/tailgate
Catches should close firmly. Rubber seals can perish over time.

Paint
Look for colour variation, overspraying, dents or ripples.

Upholstery, trim and carpets
Check for wear and tear.


Engine number and VIN (vehicle identification number)/body number
These numbers must match the numbers on the Certificate of Registration. Check for signs of interference - scratches, grind marks, drill holes etc, as they could indicate illegal interference with the numbers.

Year and month of manufacture
Check these are as advertised by inspecting the compliance and/or build plate (compliance plates are fitted to most cars made for Australia since 1970; usually attached to a panel in the engine bay).

Engine appearance
Build-up of dirt or oil may indicate mechanical problems or poor maintenance.

Engine oil
Dirty/thick oil and a build-up of sludge in the engine may indicate a lack of maintenance. Grey or milky coloured oil may signify the presence of water, which can indicate serious engine problems.

Engine at idle
Listen for irregular running, or any knocking/rattling noises.

Oil fumes
Remove the oil filler cap while the engine is idling. Fumes may signify worn piston rings or cylinder

Radiator coolant
Should be clean and brightly coloured. Oil in the coolant may indicate a cracked cylinder-head or a leaking gasket.

Radiator cooler fins and core tubes
Check for corrosion or damage.

Battery and mounting platform/bracket
Check for acid corrosion.


Tyres (including the spare)
Uneven wear may indicate worn or misaligned steering or suspension.

Oil leaks
Check the engine, transmission, axles, brakes, power steering and shock absorbers.

Exhaust system
Fumes or excessive noise indicate holes or rust in the pipes or mufflers.


Seat-belts
Check that the belts are not frayed or damaged, and that the belts, buckles, adjusters and child restraint anchorage points are in good condition.

Lights
Check the operation of all lights, both inside and outside the car.

If the vehicle is fitted with ABS and/or SRS (air bag), check that the dashboard warning light/s illuminates for a short time when the ignition is turned on.

Equipment and accessories
Check airconditioning, ventilation fan, electric windows, sound system, etc. Inoperative items can be expensive to repair or replace.

Jack and tool-kit
These items should be in place and in serviceable condition.


IMPORTANT: Before taking the car for a test-drive, check with the seller about your legal liability if an accident should occur.

Steering
Excessive 'free travel' or wandering on straight roads can indicate worn suspension or misaligned steering.

Brakes
The car should stop smoothly and in a straight line. The pedal should not sink to the floor or feel spongy and the steering wheel should not vibrate.

Exhaust
Blue smoke indicates oil is being burnt.

Engine
Should run smoothly (accelerating, decelerating and cruising) and the water temperature gauge should stay in the 'safe' range. Rattling or knocking sounds could mean incorrect tuning or excessive wear.

Transmission
Gear changes (manual or automatic) should be smooth, without any rattles or knocking noises. On front-wheel drive vehicles, these noises could indicate worn constant-velocity joints.

Suspension and bodywork
Listen for rattles when you drive over bumps.

Handy phone numbers
NRMA Vehicle Inspections - 13 11 22
Get a thorough report on the car's mechanics and condition from our experts at NRMA. Vehicle Inspection bookings can be made seven days a week, between 7 am and 10 pm for Sydney, the Central Coast, Newcastle, Wollongong and Canberra. In country areas, phone 13 11 22 for your nearest NRMA inspection service.

RTA - 132 213
Check for stolen parts, that the registration is current and that the seller is the registered owner. Visit the RTA website or e-mail the RTA.

REVS - 1800 424 988 or (02) 9633 6333
Check no money is owed on the car. Have the Certificate of Registration handy when you call. Visit the REVS website or e-mail REVS

NRMA Insurance - 132 132
Get insurance cover before you drive away. Call NRMA Insurance 7am-10pm, seven days a week. Get an online insurance quote

Receipt
Date:

Seller's name:

Address:

Phone:

Mobile:

Seller's drivers licence
no & name:

Car registration:

VIN/chassis/engine no:



Agreed condition:

Amount received:

From (buyer's name):

For (cross one out): Deposit / Full payment

This agreement is subject to the purchaser obtaining an inspection report from NRMA Vehicle Inspections. If the reported condition of the vehicle is not satisfactory to the purchaser, he/she may rescind the contract, and any deposit paid shall be refunded in full to the purchaser.

Seller's signature:

Buyer's signature:


"This agreement is subject to the purchaser obtaining an inspection report from NRMA Vehicle Inspections. If the reported condition of the vehicle is not satisfactory to the purchaser, he/she may rescind the contract, and any deposit paid shall be refunded in full to the purchaser."

Before you drive off...
Make sure you get all the keys for the car (ignition keys with transformers are expensive to duplicate).
Get the service book, owner's manual and log book.
If there's an alarm, find out how to de-activate it.
Check if there's a hidden ignition switch?

Instead of using NRMA there are many other private companies that offer the same service. When i bought my car i did some research and found these guys to be quite good and reasonable priced. ww.sydneyvehiclecheck.com.au

The guy that checked my car was professional, honest and thorough. They've been around for a long time and have plenty of experience.

Good luck with the car purchase.