help need for b18c turbo

hi peeps

any one can help me please

iv just turboed my ef8 honda crx,mods done to the car ,18c vtec block,b16a head,custome intake plemun,440c inject,bigger rail,fuel reg,38 tial external wastegate,600*300 ic,greddy bov,custum manifold,2.5 exhuast,runing vafc at the moment,wall bro fuel pump,

want to run stock internals at the moment,but thinkin of getting a thicker head gasket like a hks 3mil,youy guys reckon this would help stop my motor from blowing up.

would chipping my ecu be safe to run 8-9 psi

cheers guys

Andy

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Originally Posted by lowcrx1

...want to run stock internals at the moment,but thinkin of getting a thicker head gasket like a hks 3mil, you guys reckon this would help stop my motor from blowing up...

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LOL!!! No, all it will do is change the compression ratio and be thicker. Having the stronger internals won't guarantee it either but they are harder to break. The thicker head gaskets are supposed to be stronger but we have found that some makes can actually be weaker. More material that can fail is what it is. It's not the gaskets that fail because they aren't big enough it's the fact that the user puts too much boost in to it. Also other things like cooling, oil, fuel, timing and just the general tuning aren't correct and that helps the motor fail. I would run close to stock sizes on the gasket and maybe look in to a block guard, like a ring that goes around the cylinders. Not the best thing but it will help until you can afford to sleeve it. I wouldn’t run high boost, 15psi+, until you do some work on the internals. With the guard you might be able to get to 15 psi but I wouldn’t go too far over that. Then make sure you get a good tuner to work on the tuning. Should be good for a little while!

leave the headgasket as is, and get some real engine management.

the vafc is what is going to blow your engine, nothing else

Ya the VAFC is a very poor mans EMS!! It really suxs! But more things can be just as bad, but most of all the tuning! If I were you I would SAVE and get what you really need. A good kit, Hondata or AEM EMS, and build the motor a little bit. Should be at most like 5-6kAUD. I don't know what a good dyno tune costs down there so I didn't include that! Someone else asked me about this so if it wasn't you pm me and I'll tell you what the actual cost would/should be.

hi guys thank you for replying

ill take ya words for not up grading the head gasket and save up for a ecu would apexi power fc do for the car,i was told to usea power fc what max power can i get a td05 turbo and power fc with stock internal

cheers

andy

post some pics up too!!!


(sorry to hijack)

would post pics if i knew how to but dont know,

checkout the appearance section i am sure there is a sticky there on howto

a td05(I assume you're looking at the greddy kits/turbo?) is a VERY small turbo for a b18c... I'd look to something a bit bigger personally.

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Originally Posted by saxman

a td05(I assume you're looking at the greddy kits/turbo?) is a VERY small turbo for a b18c... I'd look to something a bit bigger personally.

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from the sounds of it he has already installed it?

Get a motec mate :)

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Originally Posted by panda[cRx]

from the sounds of it he has already installed it?

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so is the vafc... doesn't mean they should stay

hondata is one of the most reliable management systems out.

And i will say this, forged pistons are stronger but not invincable. i think the most critical part of a boosted honda is the tune. get a perfect tune (with realistic psi) and your set up should be absolutly fine - as long as you have a healthy bottom end already.

did you run a compression test on the block??

If your compression varys too much (due to worn rings) then that will cause your engine to be alot more unstable. It can also efect the air fule pressure and ratios i beleve....so yeah, (in N/A at least) this can cause combustion problems where pinging, unbalanced crank shaft force and other nasty things will happen.
Its not text book, but what i have learnt.

power Fc or hondata ...but no vafc crap unless you mods are limited to intake headers and exhaust...which they are not.

james

hi guys

thanks for the reply ,much appreciated
im saving up for je piston and eagle rods at the moment than will send it of to a good tuner,would i have to sleeve,and block guard or will i be safe to run piston and rod

for ecu im just gonna get a chip to run it
cheers

the fact that you're talking about sleeving it and installing a block guard shows you need to do a whole lot more research before doing much of anything.

block guards are a waste of time imo, i have heard that they restrict the water bypass. And correct me if im wrong, but a standard chipped ecu will not work on a turbo set up coz of the vacume and boost. can someone second that??
If u are going to resleave your block, ur up for new crank and rod bearings too, not to mention new seals all round.
digging into the block makes your budget jump dramaticly....and in that case, you might as well go all out.

most chipped ecus are perfectly capable of handling boost. The ecu/map sensor have no problem seeing boost when you give them fuel maps to do so. It depends on what software you're using, etc. I always find it amusing how much hondata charges for letting the ecu see boost... it takes clicking maybe two buttons!

the standard map sensor reads 10psi i think so there should be a prob there

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Originally Posted by superR

the standard map sensor reads 10psi i think so there should be a prob there

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ya, reads up to somewhere in the 10-11psi ranges

Hey just wondering, what is the max boost you can run on the t28, t3, and t4?
Anybody have any idea?

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Originally Posted by justrunit

Hey just wondering, what is the max boost you can run on the t28, t3, and t4?
Anybody have any idea?

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will vary with specific trims, etc... generally it's more of an issue of at what psi/cfm the turbo is most efficient than what's the max psi it's capable of blowing

and also waistgate spring tension .

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Originally Posted by superR

and also waistgate spring tension .

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well, yah... but that can be changed pretty easily...


you would never want to run your turbo at the max psi it was capable of producing anyway

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Originally Posted by justrunit

Hey just wondering, what is the max boost you can run on the t28, t3, and t4?
Anybody have any idea?

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What you said does not mean anything. There are many more atributes to describe a turbo than the exhaust housing flange.

For example, let's say by T3 you mean the turbo which is attached to an early 2litre skyline. At a minimum for someone to give you an actual inteligent answer, you need to give them the compressor trim exhaust housing a/r. In the case of the skyline turbo, they are either 45 or 60 trim (cbf finding out/measuring) and .42/.48 a/r. On a 1.8litre motor, revving to 8 or so like the vtec motors do, at around 10psi you will be pushing it in terms of keeping compressor efficiency about 68%. Now, the .48 exhaust housing is tiny. Your compressor will be pushing the air just fine, but up high this little bastard will be a wall in your exhaust and you'll drop torque off at maybe 6,000 or so, as opposed to peaking 1,000rpm later. You certainly could run more boost, but you wouldn't make any more power.

Do not run a block guard. They are piles of garbage and belong only in the bin. Stock sleeves are fine for a lot more power than you will be producing. Detonation cracks sleeves, not moderate power levels. Honda-tech is home to many people pushing 500-600whp+ on stock sleees. Just make sure your tune is nice and tight.

Are you tuning yourself or paying someone else to? Because if you are, there are far cheaper options than Hondata. Same job, quarter of the price (though, they may be a little more tricky to setup and get the job done with hehe).