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my swap is complete now, and is running quite nicely. swapped from d16a8 to jdm b16a. after driving for the first time, after a min the CEL came on. shorted the diagnostic pins, and not showing a code. turn on again, light off, but after 5 min driving, still lights up. then this morning, driving to work, took about 10 mins to come on.
Any ideas guys??????
Could it be something to do with your thermostat?? Or something else that is related to the engine heating up??
Just tryin to help.
jase
just had a new thermostat put in before the engine went in.
u could always take it back to whoever installed the new engine and get them to check it......or u could disconnect the battery overnite to reset the ecu and it mite go away.....when i put a new head unit in my gf car the check light kept randomly popping up, so i disconnected the battery for a while to reset it and it hasn't happened again so it mite be that.....hope it helps dood
you have an OBDI ECU dont you.
well if you have seen the engine light come on and stay on, and you short the connector and you have no fault codes flashing out, then I hate to say your ECU is rooted,
however if you have a chiped or modified ecu then it could just be a bug or fault in the ROM.
if your OBD0 which I doubt, shorting hte SCS connecotr is not to read out codes, only to set the timming. you need to read out the code from the flashing LED on the ECU.
Went to my mechanic last night. He br, and brought home the honda pgm computer to run the diagnostic test. found that the knock sensor wasnt wired in properly, and also the electric load detector (ELD) wasnt either. Knock sensor was wired, but must not be connecting with the ecu, it is in d3. that was empty before, and i had to salvage a pin from the jdm dash harness.
my fuse box doesnt have an ELD,so im gonna have to do something about that. :confused:
And yes ECU-MAN, it is a p30 OBDI ecu
dont bother fitting the ELD
you may not get it to work
best just ignore the code, it wont make the engine ligt come on, but if your paranoid, PM me as I can disable the ELD in your ECU.
with your knock, as you said it has to go to D3, it also must be sheilded.
make sure you have continuity from the sensor wire to D3, ( unplug D connector from ECU when testing. )
have to make sure that the wires are in place corectly at the 3 shock tower PGMFI connectors.
Knock can also be disabled in the ECU.
So in other words, both of the codes will not affect the driveablity of the car at all. So if i disable the knock and the ELD on the ecu, there will be no risk of damage to the motor???Quote:
Originally Posted by ECU-MAN
if you run decent fuel ( PULP ), you will be ok, knock realy helps when runnign normal ULP,
knock will keep the engine light always on, ELD will have no effect, at least fix your knock either by wiring it up, if not then disable both in the ECU.
I have run several B16A with out knock with no problems.
Yeah, i will try re wiring knock.Quote:
Originally Posted by ECU-MAN
I am running PULP anyways, but if i cant seem to fix the wiring, how do i go about disabling the function on the ECU.
you have to remove the ROM in the ECU and read out the data from it and use a hex editor and replace a few values then reburn a new EPROM with that data and socket the ECU. if the ECU has no EPROM you have to read your ROM from out the MCU modify it and then socket the ECU and add a few components and burn a chip and your good to go.
any chips out there for these ECU's that have these values modified? dont wanna stuff it up, thats all, i hate being without a car :(