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hi im just wondering since the vtir has a cylindrical airfilter in the airbox, is this filter sealed so that i could just remove the top half of the airbox and end up getting the short ram intake effect without having to put on an aftermarket intake?
cheers
the dc2 already draw air from the bottom of the car into that chamber. By removing the top half of it you'd be drawin warm air from around the engine bay along with the air thats being brought it from the bottom. IMO keep it sealed. Unless you want the vtec to sound louder and be able to hear the slight whoosh sound.
cheers mate, yeah just wanted to get the sound of vtec. its pretty cool here for winter now so heat soak wont be a problem :)
Just try different methods, it's up to you. I used to run mine with the top off but currently have cut the hole in the base much much larger and will fit a 4-5 inch pipe eventually running into the guard.
take off the bottom half....easy and coppas cant see the mod
instant loss of about 6kw at the wheels, and thats without heatsoak.
why would you instantly lose 6kw at the wheels... by taking off the top of the box its no different from a short ram intake, really. i had a short ram on my 92 integra ls and it definately made the car more powerful. i dont expect much if any gains, but certainly would be surprised to lose 6kw.
In certain parts of the rpm range power output may be lower or higher due to road speed and amount of heat under the bonnet, top end will generally be quite good from my experience but from standstill acceleration will likely suffer.
ginganggooly please back up claims like those with proof.
i concurr>>
You have to know that Honda has placed the air filter inside the airbox for a reason. It could be to meet manufacturer's requirements for a vehicle. Or it could be because you lose torque at the lower RPM rage.
The reason why a short ram intake could be better than Honda's stock setup is because there are no resonators attached to the SR intake. Go and chop off the resonator in your stock intake and check out the difference you'll be surprised.
BTW an intake resonator only exists on '93-'95 DC2. The main restriction of the stock system is the small diameter piping running from the large resonator box under the front bar to the airbox, this is considerably smaller than the "airbox to throttle body" pipe. This was most likely done by Honda to minimise intake noise, remember there are compromises engineered into almost everything to keep "the powers that be" happy. I have removed mine and increased the airbox hole diameter ready for an adaptor plate to run a 4-5 inch tube under the front bar.
i tested it. did a few dyno runs with the airbox on, couple of dyno runs with the airbox off. the whole graph, from start to finish, was 4-6kw lower.Quote:
Originally Posted by hondaracermd
as to why- it could be a combination of turbulence and length.
well mate, if you think i'm going to dig up through my old dyno sheets to prove myself correct for the sake of your curiosity, you are very sadly mistaken. how about you try testing it yourself :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by T-onedc2
peace out.
hell of a lot easier to mod the stock box, i have a 100mm hole cut into the bottom of the box, removed the bits of crap and fitted a bit of 100mm induction (flexi pipe, whatever!) pipe. front bar to a/box, with a highflow filter. simple.
you only really needed to add what you did in your previous post as a brief explanation of how you came to that conclusion and no one would doubt the results. Thanks for getting back to us.Quote:
Originally Posted by ginganggooly
Cheers
don't mind me, i'm growing into a cranky old man :)Quote:
Originally Posted by T-onedc2
yeah, it is weird how gingangooly's experience is complete opposite of mine...
i was dynoing at Toda and usign a stock VTiR air pipe, stock Airbox and removed resonator chamber and K&N filter,
and on the dyno gained 5kW peak power simply by removing the airbox lid...
ie went from 120 to 125kW...
this is on a B20VTEC btw...
very strange...
a few differences though- my airbox had a fat 4" bit of pvc pipe rammed up the bottom of it, and i'd used all purpose filler to taper the inside of the box to what i thought looked a better shape. the pickup of the duct was from behind the splash guard at the front of the car.
i dropped from 115kw to 109 by removing the lid.
running a k&n filter too.
the bottom of my box was left open - ie not restricted
so it was basically a "pod on a stick" style...
BTW - my car was tuned with the lid on, as it was too loud to leave the lid off the airbox and *heatsoak* would be worse....
bottom left open as in, the bottom half of the enclosure wasn't on?Quote:
Originally Posted by tinkerbell
or the factory ducting into it was removed?
the bottom half of the enclosure was the only thing there, all other piping and parts were removed.
i.e it was only sitting in the ACL Housing:
http://home.exetel.com.au/tinkerbell...housingDC2.jpg
interesting... i would have thought that the two motors would have near identical induction requirements.
they probably do... ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by ginganggooly