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I've been saving money for a while now to mod my s2k..
Can neone suggest sensible mods i can do...
soo far ive done
-Front slotted rotors
-Cusco CF strut brace
-Custom Exhaust (3" cat back no barrel)
and other mods are like DIY mods ive been doing...
soo wats next for me???
calipers??
rims??
Cold air intake??
can anyone suggest sensible mods for my car..
did u find the cusco strut brace made the car roll less around corners?
hey JNS_012 where you the guy who bought my cusco strut brace and rotas?? i still have a 32mm sway bar if your interested hehehe
next mod i would suggest is some coilovers so you can lower it nice and low.
HEy jon
yer i was the buyer^^* that night i went straight to work and installed them...
lOl wat brand do u recommend the coilovers??
(rolled) sorri man i dont know coz i started trackin it after the installation..
soo i dont realli know ...^^*
rimz !
hmm ok...post up some pics of ur car mate. then we'll know what u need to do to it.
A strut brace will have no effect on corner roll. But the sway bar would.
hmm i see, it was just because the other day i was in krbz's car and his seems to roll less then mine, but all i could see he had was a cusco strut brace that the previous owner put in. I was thinking he probably had an aftermarket sway bar.
what sort of mods are u looking at, performance or cosmetic? also whats the end result ure aiming for,track,street or looks?
Get some neons and a sub :)
yes indeed! a nice fat 32mm cusco one lol :pQuote:
Originally Posted by AusS2000
theres alot of coilovers out there JNS012.
depends on what you want. I had d2 racing coils on my S2K and i thought they were good value for money. Not too harsh for street driving and they were able to go low. On the track i set them too stiff and had alot of understeer :(
in the end comes down to how much cash you got the throw around :)
to add to this, get someone to "cut" your springs or compress them to drop your car. Next add 20s, get some pimping chromies from tempe, they'll hook you up. take your car down to the nearest panel beater, go for a full custom respray (preferably with flames etc.) Next is to head to your nearest JDM shop and buy out all their performance part stickers, ie. mugen, tein, hks, c-west etc. Apply those in a "shopping list" manner on the side of the car.Quote:
Originally Posted by toE
That's about it.
get light weight rims, ur car will handle better, go faster down the quarter and all this with the same power level.
Soooo, it was YOU who bought that.... I wanted it lol :mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by [JNS 012]
Post up a picture of it in the engine bay, I atleast wanna see what I missed out on. :thumbsup:
Mugen CF Hardtop!!!!!!!
:thumbsup:
s2200 ...
can anyone say "i want to keep my resale value & reliability" ?
A few ppl have said this, some swear by it others dismiss it entirely. The stock rims are pretty damn light, so to look at matching the weight or going one better, ure looking at about $4k for something decent, without tread.Quote:
Originally Posted by robert112
If u wanna increase performance levels and keep the same power figure, i sugest toda flywheel and clutch kit or changing the final drive. Each should cost just under $1k,without instillation. (They're my next mods)
I think coilovers would really make the most of the current mods made.
If u've got a few mods in mind, head to S2ki.com,perform a search and then u can make ure mind up after hearing from numerous ppl, who have directly had experience with that particular mod.
4 grand without rubber is going to get you some seriously light volks which would easily save you 10+kgs if not more of unsprung weight.Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteAP1
I don't know about the final drive I haven't really researched it much, is it just making 6th shorter or? Also with the light weight flywheel, I know that would make a car rev nicer but wouldn't you lose acceleration going up hill because you wouldn't have the momentum of a heavier flywheel? I haven't seen any dyno results or real life results of these so not dismissing them.
In saying this..... Yes I think coilovers would make the best mod aswell but I personally don't like them because of the uncomfortable ride they give but hey, you can't have both, there's no such thing as comfort when your chasing speed =]
no, final drive is reducing the overall drive ratio, it does help with acceleration but you obviously lose top speed. There's a video floating around on the net demonstrating the difference. I believe stock final drive ratio is 4.10 and people change them around to 4.44, 4.57 etc and I believe the gear sets are made by all sorts of different brands like KIA and some others i forgot.
$4k will certainly get u volks, thats what i was implying. Stock rims are about 7kg(round about). My main point is that ive read so many conflicting arguments, that it seems even saving a few kilos on ure rims isnt gonna make a noticable difference, acceleration wise. With the stock rims being so light, the mark is set pretty high,the best u can do is match it or go a few kgs beter. If u empty ure wiper resoviour and fill up 10 litres less at the pump, u'll probably save more than 10kgs, its certainly not gonna have and significant impact on performance.If u want better acceleration that u can notice on the "quater" rims aint gonna do it. A moderate, noticable and proven mod, would be diff/flywheel mods.
Yes uphill a lighter flywheel may affect acceleration. From what ive been told by those who have installed the product, its not like the car will not move uphill,it is slightly affected. Also the car will drop revs faster. The advantages u gain in any/every other circumstance outwieghs moderatly inferior acceleration uphill, thats how i look at it.
Changing the Final drive is replacing the ring and pinion in the diff (i thought it was gear box related too when i first heard of it). Gears are made shorter(they rev out faster)it increases acceleration considerably(check out the vid on S2ki) and yes u lose top speed. Im not too fussed about loosing a few Kmph at 200+. Again those who have made the modification swear by it, and wondered why they didnt do it sooner
This should explain the flyheel princple better than i can
http://www.todaracing.com/topics/art...el_design.html
get a nice pair of 17"rims...make it look nice :)
I agree with you spending 4k on volks will get you light weight wheels:p . I did this but purely for the lookwise. If i were to go all out on performance i would keep the oem wheels and invest in some other modQuote:
Originally Posted by robert112
I reckon best bang for buck mod on the s2k is to upgrade to a 4.56 final drive. There was a clip of this in affect and lets just say it makes a stock s2k look very slow.
Hi WhiteAP1
What you said about final drive makes me interested in getting, I dont know anything about them so please tell us more :confused: what kind of final drive will improve this acceleration? Ive seen few on some online shops and they had different ratings/numbers
Have you got yours done? how much better is the acceleration by having this final drive? say the 0-100 or qtr mile?
I myself would rather acceleration than topspeed as I will never go anywhere near the topspeed anyway.
Is there any negative effects? apart from topspeed?
And how much would this set up cost you recon?
Thanks, sorry for all the questions...
:honda:
Hi FLY
Do you by any chance have a link to that video? Im very keen to see it!
If not could you tell us by how much the stock s2000 lost to that 4.56 final drive s2000 ?
Thanks
:honda:
Zerospel. there should be a link for that clip on s2ki.com
As far as i know from the clip after 2nd gear the car with the 4.56 final drive began pulling away from the stock s2k. By third gear it was about 1-2 car lengths in front. But keep in mind the trade off for this is that you lose top speed. It is great for traffic light sprints but i dont think it will improve 1/4 miles by much if at all.
This mod isnt as expensive as some may think as the final drive can be sourced from kia or mazda miata. I got a quote from difftechnics in sydney and they wanted about 1200 for a drive in drive out job.
zerospel i tried searching for the video clip on s2ki but i think somethings up with the search engine, but im sure we'll find it soon. Now with the final drive
(more specifically the ring and pinion) there are a few options.
The same out sourced company who make the diff for the s2000, also make diffs for mazda and kia. Each diff has a different ratio. The stock S diff has a ratio of 4.10:1. That is for every full revolution of the axel the drive shaft rotates 4.10 times. Now compatable mazdas have a ratio of 4.44 and the front diff from a kia sportage has a ratio of 4.65. Ive contacted kia and could get a new ring and pinion(99+ sportage front diff) for around $800.Im not sure about prices installed, but it would be a days work done properly.
Now the links i cant take credit for AusS2000 put me on to those and there a damn good read.
Theres a link to J's Racing ring and pinion but make sure u read the final link on the Kia diff, they are identical, and kia is better priced.
Now the links really say it all, i know i'll be getting the kia diff very soon.
(TODA flywheel and clutch kit going in first) Some ppl may prefer other ratios due to their personal preference and use. There should be a calculator amongst the links(certainly on s2ki.com) which tells u what speed u will reach at the top of each gear.
That should set u straight,now ask as many questions as u like thats what were here for (i am anyway) . If i didnt ask id still think that final gear had something to do with the gearbox :)
http://www.bulletproofautomotive.com...ail.php?ID=837
http://www.bulletproofautomotive.com...il.php?ID=4241
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php...pic=85687&st=0
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=182172
Also something i forgot to mention, is that after the gear install, ure speedo will need to be re-calibrated. Most ppl use whats called a yellow box to fix this.
These links should answer any q's u have......Gotta love S2ki.com
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44625
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=141406
hmm if you going to do a final drive why dont u also get a lightweight flywheel.
FLY and WhiteAP1- Thank You very much ! that is some great info! :thumbsup:
I now understand the final drive much better, I was in complete darkness on these and had no idea what those numbers and decimal points meaning.
That is pretty good price for a mod that works ! The tampering with the speedo and that yellow box scares me a bit tho...
WhiteAp1- how much is the toda flywheel and clutch is going to cost you? Please let us know when u got it done, let us know the improvements and how happy you are :)
I thought of getting clutch+flywheel as well, because my clutch is one of those noisy ones and slips a bit, so I thought of having the flywheel done as well.
:wave: :honda: :wave: :honda: :wave: :honda:
Ive placed the order with Henry at RMS in Mitcham (just off whitehorse rd,melb), ive gotten all my parts from him, he usually beats everyone elses quotes(that ive been given) by at least $200 (depends on the part)i HIGHLY recomend him. TODA flywheel $640 and clutch plate $350 landed. I'll be getting Modproject to do the install, not sure of the price yet, we havnt discussed it.
If ure eager to get some feedback on those who have already gone through with the mod, s2ki.com. Simpy do a search for TODA flywheel, u'll recieve many reviews, thats how i made my mind up.
Again just to give u an idea on how good (IMO) Henry at RMS is
Fujitsubo legalis R $1200
Tein Flex kit $2250
EDFC $500
TODA Headers $1400
yeah thats cheap, what is an EDFC?
edfc is a little electrical unit that from inside the car you can adjust the dampner settings
it like stands for
electronic
dampner
force
control
not entirly sure if that last bits correct.
Does that EDFC adjusts the height as well?? if it does thats the next thing im gonna get :p
Are you guys doing anything to the intake system ? Im thinking K&N FIPK that the american s2ki ppl talks about but Im not sure if I can get that here in Aust, firstly I was interested in the AEM but found out that some cutting of the car is required to fit.
WhiteAP1- those prices seems pretty good! sounds like a good shop too to be able to source all those different things! if only he was in sydney !
:honda: :zip: :honda:
no the edfc does not control the height, only damper.Quote:
Originally Posted by zerospel
would the final drive piece must come from either the mazda, or kia? is it possible to use one from another car? ive got a spare sti diff for my wrx, which runs a 4.44
will it be possible for me to use this same one for my s2?
the wrx diff wouldnt fit, different specs made by a different company. The only reason the selected mazda and Kia ring and pinion fit is because there made by the same company who make the S2000 diff.
In regards to intake, stay away from anything that resembles a pod on the end of a pipe. The F20C is extreamely heat sensetive, most intakes out there (IMO) get too much heat soak from the engine, which is not good for performance. So it would be like driving ure car on a hot day every day.I also think the ARC intake is usless (just my opinion guys) because of heat soak. Its like taking the lid off the stock airbox. But im sure theres ppl out there who love their ARC intake (but ask around alot of ppl sate the same thing as i have)
Id recomend the Mugen intake. Alot of RnD gone into it and once again, its a proven preformer. Also being Carbon fibre its much much less suseptable to heat soak, not only increasing preformance but maintaing it. There usually around the $1700 mark. A cheaper alternative would be the MUZ intake (fits to ure stock box.
Now generally with intake and exhaust u will see some improvments, but to make the most of mods like these, once there all on, TUNE IT. Greaddy e-manage, hondata , pro ecu, what ever tickles ure fancy
would a gtr r32 diff fit coz i have one atm....
I really cant be sure, im only going by what ive read and seen. I havnt heard of anything like that being done, but i really shouldnt give a yes or no answer. Maybe ask a tunnig shop or jump on S2ki.com ask if it could be done, they have a more collective mechanial knowledge.
9krpm, has converted his rear diff, to a Skyline GTST diff I believe, to cope with the massive turbo setup he is running.
That is custom work though, not a straight swap by any means.
damn....
does neone know where i can pick up a j-racing front bar??
and how much it is... roughly
try searching the web probably get one from the states, ask the forum traders,or u could even post a wanted to buy thread....just gotta have a look around shouldnt be hard to find
whiteAP1 thanks for that
but is there nechance that i can pick one up from the shelves
at a store somewhere
what is ure location?
sydney
im in melb myself so wouldnt really know what direction to point u in. Ive found off shelf parts for the s2000 to be quite scarce most stuff has to be ordered (ususally takes 4 weeks). Probably be the case with something like the J's bar. Heres a link where u could get a front bar
http://www.boomplustoys.net/jsracing_s2000.shtml
for those who were curious heres the clip of the stock s2000 running one with a ring and pinion swap
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/vi...ZmQzMXk1NDE%3D
While im at it heres the calculator that will tell u the speed u'll reach at the top of each gear depending on the final drive.
http://www.turnzero.com/technical_re...ear_calculator
wow the difference is huge!!! i wasnt expecting that much difference!
So this is with 4.56 gears??
What do you think of 4.77? i was reading s2ki i think and there was ppl recommending the 4.77 as the 4.56 the difference is not that great.
But also they were debating about freeway driving.
Is the yellow box calibration process anything big deal? cos thats one of the things i worry about...
:honda:
im pretty sure that it was a 4.57, the kia diff as u know is 4.56. Now the 4.77 is ultimatley better, u will accelerate faster,though to get to 100km u'll need to up shift into 3rd that could slow u down 0-100
It really depends on what sort of application its being applied to. Also u'll pay an arm and a leg for ricks or J's 4.77 when u can easily benifit from the Kia diff for half the price. Check out the calculator play with both figures and have a think of where u'd like to be at the end of each gear. For NA and daily i think the 4.56 will serve better, its easier to live with. Think of traffic and start stop. The lower the ratio the less shifts u have to make to get to a certain speed.
dont worry about freeway driving u'll between 3k and 4k rpm at 100 in 6th with a 4.56. The yellow box is pretty straight forward for someone with the knowledge.Heaps of ppl have done it and speedos have needed recalibrating for ages, most ppl who go with large tyre packages on any car need recalibration. Im not gonna tackle on my own. I'll probably get it done at the same place i get my diff done.
id just like to correct myself (if anybody is actually reading this post) the AU +NZ kia diff ratio is actually 4.625 not 4.56, :o
Thats ok. We all make mistakes occasionally. :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteAP1
What sort of car do you want to build? Dont just modify for the sake of modifying, you'll end up with a weird hybrid of things. Can you imagine 24 inch bling wheels thats ultra low with amuse wide body kit and gt wing with flame decals and a shopping list on the side of the car and on the inside its all posh like. Do you want to build a NA track car or a super charged everyday car? Think of what you want out of your car how you drive, and the ideas will come to you :D
By the way does anyone know where I can get a pair of sparco seat bases from in Melbourne on the cheap new?
i hope you understand this thread was created in 2006...
I only realised after I posted lol. But I do need the sparco seat bases. if anyone has them for sale please message me? :)