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heard about the clutch buzz and master cylinder problems in the 99 models
did this also carry on into the 2000 models? if so is it all those models? any idea what month they were rectified?
reason being im looking at 2000 and 2001 model s2000s atm and im leaning towards the 2000 model as it has less kms but i would rather the 01 model with higher kms if the 00 model has the clutch buzz problem
also wondering if anyone has the list of TSB for the S2000?
and if anyone has had experience in dealing with a dealership in fixing a TSB when warranty has already expired?
TSB 054 deals with the clutch buzz
TSB 037 deals with foggy rear plastic window
has anyone got any TSBs fixed?
a full list is below
Safety Recalls
TSB Number Issue Date TSB Title
00-020 FEB 00 Recall - Convertable Top Cover
Service Bulletins
TSB Number Issue Date TSB Title
01-008 MAR 02 Body - Driver's Window Won't Go All The Way Down
00-054 NOV 01 M/T - Buzz/Rattle on Deceleration
98-061 NOV 01 A/T - In-Warranty Exchange Program
99-078 OCT 01 Vehicle - PDI & New Model Information
00-088 AUG 01 Brake Discs - Refinishing Guidelines
98-011 AUG 01 Keyless Entry - Transmitter
01-038 MAR 01 Convertible Top Cover - Comes Loose
00-054 DEC 00 Engine/Transmission - Buzzing on Deceleration
00-099 DEC 00 Wiring Terminal - Repair Instructions
00-088 NOV 00 Brake Rotor - Refinishing Guidelines
00-083 OCT 00 Heater Unit - Water Drips Onto Passenger's Carpet
00-089 OCT 00 Supplemental Restraint System - Inspection
00-048 SEP 00 Convertible Top Rear Window Replacement - Manual Update
00-055 SEP 00 M/T - Grinding When Shifting Into 2nd Gear
00-063 AUG 00 Special Tool - Chassis EAR(TM), Diagnostic Tool
00-057 JUL 00 CD Player - Sound Cuts Out at High Volume
00-049 JUL 00 Immobilizer System - Type 2: Operation/Part Replacement
99-053 JUN 00 Immobilizer Key - Key Code Duplicator
00-050 JUN 00 Accessory Floor Mat - Anchor Moves From Side to Side
99-018 APR 00 Required Special Tools And Equipment,
00-037 APR 00 Convertable Top Rear Window - Creased, Cloudy, Scratched
98-019 MAR 00 Audio Unit - Warranty Exhange/Out of Warranty Repair
00-015 MAR 00 Audio Unit with CD Player/Changer - Error Codes
00-032 MAR 00 Paint Codes
00-022 MAR 00 Torque Converter Oil Seal - Installation Tool
97-015 DEC 99 Service Publications - Availability & Ordering
98-031 NOV 99 Aftermarket On Board Diagnostic (OBD) || Tester
99-062 OCT 99 Paint Damage From Environmental Fallout
99-030 MAY 99 Recommended Materials
98-051 AUG 98 Special Tool Loan Program
TSB 054 deals with the clutch buzz
TSB 037 deals with foggy rear plastic window
083 OCT 00 Heater Unit - Water Drips Onto Passenger's Carpet
These are the only problems ive experienced in the 3 years ive had my car. The window got so foggy and stiff that one night it actually cracked whilst putting the roof up. My car was out of warranty,honda didnt want to know me, so i found an auto trimmer who replaced it.
The "clutch buzz" apparently is the gears vibrating or buzzing due to the springs in the clutch disc. I find it only happens during down gearing when the car is being pushed for a while. Its easy to live with (IMO). A few have replaced the clutch with later model OEM clutches and have got rid of the buzz, others have found it to come back in time. I'll be replacing mine in the next few weeks with a TODA disc, so i guess time will tell.
I had the water drip happen to me the other day. The hose actually became disconnected. Its a little exposed and could have gotten this way with a swift kick from a passenger or, it could be the way i throw my bag in the foot well. It was an easy fix, i re-attached the hose and zip tied it.
I wouldnt let the list deter u from ure purchase. The later the model u buy the less u have to worry about. It quite obvious even with the 03's, compared to the early models like mine, all the little creases and bugs have been picked up and ironed out. Just get the best example u can find within ure budget. All the little things are easily forgoten and u'll find, its something u dont even think of.
Ur right AP1.. once ur blasting it in the red zone no creak or buzz will be louder than the engine revving at 9000rpm...
i 100% agree with AP1... get the best one for ur budget..
i got a black 2000 model with red interior and it was pretty immaculate..
spend a bit of time waiting for a good one.. and u know u can always bargain down ppl...
AP1 good choice on parts... TODA is the only way to go in Honda's.. i advise u to get a lightened flywheel from us too.. big difference on the take off..
ur car looks pretty nice mate.. its very well done.. i wanted a white one with red interior but there were none in sydney that were good..
to give u more assurance, all the probs with the older models like mine are very small.. nothin detrimental to the car so its all good.. easily fixed anywayz..
way ahead of u, got the flywheel when i got the clutch,well it was the other way around, got the flywheel and thought i might as well get the clutch. Going TODA headers aswell (4.62 final drive going in first though) Gotta agree TODA's the shit.
My avatar's not actually my car, that belongs to J's racing, a few ppl have said that though. should really get my own car up there hey
Just so you know, the cars sold from August 1999 are considered MY2000. The same way as the glass window was introduced in MY2002 but was available from late 2001. The clutch was changed in mid-2001 IIRC so I expect it effects all MY2000 and most MY2001s.Quote:
Originally Posted by chicken8
Clutch buzz....sounds bad but it aint....if not check all the bolts on the heat shield. I had a loose bolt and it rattled a bit.
lol reviving this thread.
can i get a definite answer, will swapping out the old clutch with an aftermarket clutch get rid of clutch buzz?
and if not, what do you do to get rid of clutch buzz?
thanks
Yes..... but it may come back if you use the Honda OEM replacement.
Just upgrade to an Exedy HD.
thanks buddy,
that's all i was after.
but how come people say that it gets worse when you go aftermarket?
Cos they're full of sh!t.Quote:
Originally Posted by nickasse
No seriously, the clutch buzz is actually a rattle in your gearbox caused by the particular tension in the early OEM springs. You won't get it with a current OEM, nor and Exedy HD (which is what the current OEM is). Whether you'll get it with a Ogura Super Carbon Six Puck is completely unknown and would be the last of your worries.
Hi there, reviving this thread one more time :P
I'm starting to get sick of the clutch buzz in my car, and I was wondering if it is suitable to only change the clutch disc instead of the whole clutch assembly?
My car is still on its first clutch and is currently on 85,000km but its working 100% fine, no slipping or any issues whatsoever besides the loud buzzing on deceleration. So I don't want to change out a whole clutch if I don't have to, only want to change what I need to in order to get rid of the noise!
I guess the other thing to consider is if it would be alright to have a new clutch disc installed while the other parts of the clutch assembly are 85,000km old?
Some advice would be much appreciated :)
Technically you could only change the friction plate......... but why??? While it's out, replace the lot. Everything about the factory item is crap. So replacing it with a better item makes perfect sense and the price difference between partial and full replacement wouldn't be that much different.
That's a pretty harsh and sweeping comment. Care to back it up?Quote:
Originally Posted by JAP-S2K
So what makes it so good then? Care to share and expand everyones brain. What's harsh about my comment. In factory form, the clutch is weak and slips between gearchanges with spirited driving and is noisy (clutch buzz).
I didn't say it was good. You said it was crap and didn't justify your comment. i call that 'harsh'. YMMV
Contrary to your opinion, many have been on the stock clutch for up to and over 10 years without problem (including 9000rpm). It is strong enough for general and even spirited usage.
Yes, the early ones had a buzz issue but this was entirely cosmetic and certainly not justification for calling it crap. And any OEM replacement that you buy today won't buzz.
Ok, I agree if you want to beat on your car, or have extensive mods that add double digit power increase you might wanna upgrade your clutch. But you might wanna consider replacing your diff too for that matter. ;)
Now, here's a bit on my experience:
Yes, I have an uprated clutch. It's an Exedy HyperSingle. Before that I had a custom rebuilt OEM unit from Race Brakes.
And yes I have some mods. If a turbo counts as a mod. Before that I was supercharged.
But....
I didn't feel the need to upgrade my clutch until I went SC. And I did a fair few track days on the OEM. And whatever you do, don't go Exedy HyperSingle for bragging rights. Yes it holds the power but it's a pig in day to day driving.
All I'm saying is I disagree with your statement 'Everything about the factory item is crap' and propose instead that a more correct statement is 'the OEM clutch has it's limitations'.
In summary here's my answer to 9000rpm:
Yes, if your only problem is the buzz you can replace just the disc and you will get rid of the buzz and extend the life of your clutch.
But it's a lot of work and on an old clutch. May as well replace the lot. OEM is apparently suitable for your needs (as you don't seem to have an issue other than the buzz) but the Exedy (HD??) is the same as OEM (Honda license the Exedy) and can be got cheaper.
Thanks for your helpful reply. I was looking around on the net and this seems to be the one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Exedy...ht_2164wt_1167
"Exedy OEM Clutch Kit for Honda S2000" Part #KHC06
And would I be right to assume that all Exedy clutch kits that you buy now will have the new clutch plates which are free of clutch buzz?
Yup, no buzz.
what does the clutch buzz sound like?
its like a whine when you back off the throttle at higher revs
while mine is there its not bad. as the car is very raw standard it doesn't seem out of place IMO
I upgraded to exedy HD & still have the buzz...Quote:
Originally Posted by ludecrs
^ As we later learnt, the Exedy HD IS the Honda OEM clutch.
Ahh ok thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by ludecrs
hang on im confused so you dont recommend this clutch cos i got that buzzin noise aswell jus wanna make sure i dont wanna buy it for nothing thanks
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Exedy...ht_2164wt_1167
can someone record a sound clip or video clip of the noise....i still cant figure it out what clutch buzz sounds like...
i dont think you will able to hear it but its a vibration that comes from the middlee
Went to Hannys today he said swap over the driveshafts or it mite need the driveshafts spacers?
Hey Guys, didnt want to start a new thread so I thought ill ask here. Im due for a new clutch and im thinking of replacing the OEM Clutch for an Exedy Heavy Duty.
I have gone to Hanny's Performance (Many of you Sydney people may know). They refuse to fit any aftermarket clutch and will only fit OEM Clutch. Reading above as stated Exedy HD is OEM clutch, are they identical in some what way and what are the quality / duration on them? Hanny says Exedy Clutch are crap and doesn't last long so im baffled now on what to get Exedy HD or OEM.
dude.. the OEM AP2, buy that! it's not identical, but they are a very good clutch. and yes you are correct, it's still Exedy.
but hmmm. i actually got an exedy clutch changed at Hanny's before on my dc5.. hmmm.
But as I said, OEM AP2 is the way to :)
How much are you guys finding the OEM/Exedy clutch kit for, and where at?
no idea, but I'm pretty sure it's expensive lol, arent they like ~ $1000 for the AP2.
I got my one for the DC5, heavy duty, for around $600 from a local store.
already called honda and they said there is only 1 clutch kit for all s2000 make year and quoted $850~ and fly wheels is also $500~
so my best bet would be Exedy Clutch with OEM Fly wheel shouldnt be a problem?
no problems there. but wow, OEM fly wheel is pretty expensive. Can't you get lightened aftermarket ones for that price?
Go for a lightweight comptech or toda fly wheel. Comptech seems to a good one as I read on s2ki :D
you can get comptech ones for cheap from the US!
Execedy HD clutch kit for MY2000 AP1 for $650 and machining my current flywheel shouldnt be a problem? im assuming all current clutch today has no buzz?
Out of curiousity are AP2 Clutch fitment the same as AP1?
^^^ yes.
It is popular to upgrade Ap1's clutch to the Exedy AP2 OEM clutch.
I didn't realise there was an AP2 clutch. I was under the impression it was the same as AP1. I know the slave cylinder is different (has a clutch delay valve) but there's no way you'd want that.
Keep in mind we didn't get the AP2 here. AP2 denotes an engine change we we stayed with the 2L (and that's what the flywheel/clutch bolts to). Check compliance plates on 2005-up cars. Still say AP1 if I'm not mistaken.
yeap only ap1sQuote:
Originally Posted by AusS2000
Its still the same, checked on the Exedy USA site, the part# KHC06 covers AP1 (F20C) + AP2 (F22C1) so whoever told you there is an AP1 and AP2 clutch is giving you a tug...
we learn something new everyday. woooo
AusS2000, i'm sorry but i got an Exedy HD thinking i wont get buzz. But i've got it badd!! it's really annoying. is there anyway to stop it?Quote:
Originally Posted by AusS2000
ALPS, if there's one thing that is apparent about your car it's that it is possessed. I expects a poltergeist with maracas. I recommend an exorcist. ;)
LOL! i think soo. i need to replace my diff and tranny soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by AusS2000
i don't know what to do with it anymore. it's cost soo much there's no point selling it. My gears are hard to select and notchy. when i reverse and then push the clutch back in. it's like something is loose and shakes after the clutch disengages. not sure if its normal or not. i'm getting the click which would be axle nuts. i'm getting the whine from the Diff. It's all soo very annoying. i'm fed up bad! haven't been able to enjoy it without problems!!!! damn it! grrr..
Just fitted my Execedy HD clutch kit (Daikin Australia), has anyone ever fitted 1 of these? cause now my clutch is alot more softer than my OEM honda clutch it likes a sponge. Also i relise the pressure plate had a "Honda Stamp" on it, dont think Exedy Australia will put a Honda stamp on it. My worse case scenario is the clutch they packed in the box was a standard one.
NOTE this is Exedy Australia (Daikin).
The OEM Honda clutch is made my Exedy. Unusual to buy a clutch from Exedy and it have a Honda stamp on it but nothing to worry about.
Sponginess is not the issue. Doe the clutch release properly. And when it's engaged does it hold power properly. If so, nothing to worry about.
BTW, I was under the impression the 'Exedy HD' and the 'Honda OEM' were the same but someone recently said they were different. I would appreciate clarification on this.
As far I'm concern I've been told if u were to buy thru Honda it would have a "Honda" on the pressur plate and if it was exedy it would be "daikin". Well as far as I'm concern my pressure plate has Honda on it and it feels like a standard clutch rather than HD, my clutch pedal doesn't feel heavy/hard. It is soft or even softer than my OEM clutch. Yes it grabs an has power but the fact the clutch Is soft it doesn't feel like HD. I'll be going to daikin Australia Monday to confirm the difference.
Be interested to hear your results.
I have put a Orc 309 series in My s2k. Awesome, it's noisie and it bites pretty hard but it's nice to drive with. Alot noisier then the same 309 series I had in my k swap. Doesn't get rid of the buzz.
ive got the clutch buzz with mine as well. took it into trivett service centre this morning and the guy said its normal and wont affect the cars reliability.
After 4yrs of clutch buzz, and now not having it, I don't even notice the difference tbh.
Doesn't the car have to be running to hear it?
As above, AusS2000 has stated that the buzz is due to the rattle in the gearbox caused by the early OEM springs. My 02' car currently has no buzz. I'm due for a clutch change; given it has been established that the Exedy HD IS the current OEM, can i safely assume that there will be no clutch buzz?Quote:
Originally Posted by AusS2000
From previous posts, are the other owners experiencing c'buzz with their new exedy clutches because it was a pre-existing problem prior to the change?
Can someone please shed some light?
Thanks
I've changed my clutch to an exedy HD recently, I was expecting some increase in torque and the clutch to be slightly heavier but unfortunately it feels soft like my OEM and still have the buzz. I've also notice that in my exedy HD kit the pressure plate had an Honda emblem and was identicle to my OEM.
Are the exedy HD daikin suppose to feel heavier on the peddle? Or feel like a standard Honda OEM? If anyone has fitted this kit.