Nulon Engine Oil?

hey guys, wanting to know if anyone has had any experiences with Nulon engine oils.

if oyu didn't already know they used to only make additives but they are making engine oils now.

wanting to give it a go, unless someone can advise against it.

i've used it on the GF's car and another friend's car. Seems quite good.

Gonna try it on the Honda on next run.

mm.. friend has tried it in his EG, can't remember which one though.

another friend tried in his subby, no dramas.

I recently serviced my car with Nulon 10-40. So far so good. No problems at all. In fact, i found the engine more silent. Apparently, they claim to have 32% or something along the lines, less friction compared to industry standards. What is industry standard oil?

Industry standard is mineral oil.

Just make sure the oil viscosity is correct for your engine.

10-40 for itr should be correct if im not wrong. As for the mineral based industry standard, nulon claims to be 32% less friction. In that case, how does this compare to big brands like Motul etc.

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Originally Posted by misterpoh

10-40 for itr should be correct if im not wrong. As for the mineral based industry standard, nulon claims to be 32% less friction. In that case, how does this compare to big brands like Motul etc.

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10w-30 for ITR.

And if you are comparing double ester oils like Motul 300V, of course Motul will shit over Nulon.

Thanks for the info ! :)

you get what you pay for

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Originally Posted by Limbo

you get what you pay for

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So what you are trying to imply is that expensive, more costly products equals better then cheap, less costly products?
In that case, if everyone had the same frequency as yourself, I being the CEO of Nulon, I market the engine oil as $1000 per litre, does that mean that my company's engine oil is the best in the market as mine is the most expensive>?

If you change your oil every 5000 km's it doesn't really matter what brand you use. As long as its the right grade oil you'll be right.

its pointless spending 80 - 90 bucks for oil that is only gonna be doin 5000 k's. if you wanna spend that much money on oil i suggest you leave it in there a bit longer and get your money's worth out of it.

Otherwise do what i do and buy oil for about 40 - 45 bucks and change it every 5000 km's. you won't know the difference.

^^ Totally agrees ! I dont justify $100 oils as most of us service the car every 5k.

Nulons are not cheap neither > $53 for 5 litres.

I was lucky. I picked up some motul turbolite (i think) for 45 bucks! :D:D:D (5w-30)

Australian made oil and other countries use different base oils.... Its like paint... you start off with a base then you add the colours... with oil you start with a base then start to add the additives.... They say the europeans have the best base oil.... If you start with the best you cant go wrong......
Where is nulon made....???

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Originally Posted by RCS 20L

Australian made oil and other countries use different base oils.... Its like paint... you start off with a base then you add the colours... with oil you start with a base then start to add the additives.... They say the europeans have the best base oil.... If you start with the best you cant go wrong......
Where is nulon made....???

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Nulon is an Australian owned company. As for the oils, I am not too sure. Google it, you may find out more information.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RCS 20L

Australian made oil and other countries use different base oils.... Its like paint... you start off with a base then you add the colours... with oil you start with a base then start to add the additives.... They say the europeans have the best base oil.... If you start with the best you cant go wrong......
Where is nulon made....???

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You were close on the base oils, but they do not differ because of country. They differ because of this:

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Originally Posted by aaronng

Hydrocracked - These are mineral oils that are broken down to give the desired molecule size so that you can have the viscosity you want. As smooth as "real" synthetic but when put under extreme heat and pressure (i.e. track racing), they start to lose viscosity because the molecules break to smaller length chains. Castrol Formula R and Edge 5w-30 fall into this category.

Polyalphaolefins (PAO) - These oils are made from the natural gas part by linking molecules together to make a longer one. Good protection and will withstand extreme conditions. But..... they don't leave a thick layer on metals, so when you start your cold engine, there is a little more wear. Expensive synthetics fall into this category, Mobil 1 gold, Shell Helix Ultra, Motul Turbolight, Castrol Formula R and Edge 0w-40.

Double ester - These are made from esters. The long chain ester are coiled when cold, and stretched when warm. Longer molecules = better protection. These oils also tend to stick to metal, so overnight, they will still protect your engine when you start in the morning. The downside is that they are very expensive. An example is Motul 300V.

Honda oil is mineral oil, made by Caltex.

For me, I use hydrocracked, because by the 6 month service interval, the oil should be ready for changing. It is priced just in between mineral and PAO oils, so not too hard on the wallet.

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aaronng is the lube man!!!

Oil me up baby!! :P jks jks jks

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Originally Posted by JasonGilholme

aaronng is the lube man!!!

Oil me up baby!! :P jks jks jks

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Would that be polyalphaolefin or hydrocracked? *puts on latex gloves*

HAHAHAHA :P

polyalphaolefin sounds like medication and hydrocracked sounds like a drug.... lol