HELP! injector resistor box?

Hi,

Concerto project,

Now, i will be using the OBD1 injectors, loom, P30 ecu, dizzy, all from the EG B16A engine, does this mean:

1) can i run the engine without using an injector resistor box?

2) or do i have to use the EG B16A injector resistor box or the Concerto ones?

Since im not using any OBD0 parts and its all OBD1 everything, do i still need the injector resistor box?[/I]

ECU-MAN - i hope u can shed some light on this one!

Any help and info would help!! as ive done searching and still confuses a lil'

no, you wont need the reistor box

Quote:

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Originally Posted by heist

no, you wont need the reistor box

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Correct

Depending how you attack the wiring conversion,you'll just have to feed the power going into the resistor box (yellow/black usually) into the OBD1 engine harness directly,then cut the resistor box & the other 4 wires which supplied the old injectors out of the loom.

I found my OBD1 integra engine supplied injector power from the drivers side,whereas my ED9 crx injector box was on the passengers side(dunno if same for civic looms),but I just ran a wire from the teg loom connector on the drivers shock tower direct to the main relay,as it is also on the drivers side in the crx,prob the same for the concerto.In any elec application,wiring should be as short & as large & have as less joints as is practicle.So if same for yours,dont bother using/joining old wires unless the civic feed is on the passengers side.Just remember to cap it off or cut off at the ecu location to save shorts.

Dont forget this power feed like I did & spend a couple hours wondering why your engine doesnt start,theres nothing like killing the moment of cranking a new motor with a bit of fault finding.

just be carefull some OBDI injectors still use a resistor box,

if you dont know where they came from, its best to measure the resistance of the injectors and determin if you need to install the resistor

if the they measure

1.5 - 2.5 ohm then they are low ohm and need the resistor block ( 5 to 7 ohm )

the higher ohm resistors that dont need a resistor block are 10 to 13 ohm

measure your injectors before you just whack them in and dont wire up a resistor block.

I thought it was only the accord & prelude that kept using low impedance injectors into the OBD1 era?

Fairly sure only the gen 1 B16A had low imped injectors.

In any case,measure like ECU-MAN said,just to be sure,dont want no melting ecu's.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CRXer

I thought it was only the accord & prelude that kept using low impedance injectors into the OBD1 era?

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yes thats right,

but its still nice to know for sure

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ECU-MAN

yes thats right,

but its still nice to know for sure

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kool thanks guys very informative info!!

spk to honbits and they said that EG B16A dont need resistor box,

ECU-MAN - thanks for the info but how can i check the inpedence/ohms on the injectors?

wot tools do i need besides the multimeter?

wot is the wire colour of the injectors to i use to test on? or do i test it on the Injector resistor plug? (bear in mind i dont have a resistor box, except the concerto ones)

and also do i need the wiring of the ECU all hooked up first prior to testing
the injectors?

Do i need to have the key on the ignition on and not start position ??

basically there has to be power on the injectors right?

So yeh its abit confusing how some people say yes i need one and others say no u dont coz its a later model engine and ecu.

Any confirmation on this would help!

Cheers!

Just pull the plug off the injector & measure across the 2 terminals of the injector & read what the resistance of the coil is(ohms) & cross reference with what ECU-MAN has posted.

ok so for example :

injector 1 - yel/blk -place the positive terminal of the multimeter here and then --> wht/red - place the negative of the terminal of the multimeter here and check the reading? is that how its suppose to be tested?

do i need to have everything on the ECU / wires all hooked up prior to testing right? do i need to have the key on ignition etc?

No key,no ecu,no nothing,doesnt matter which way multi probes are used just put one on each terminal of the injector with the plug taken off it.

If dont want to remove plug then one probe on yellow/black & one probe on the colour wire of the injector u are testing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CRXer

No key,no ecu,no nothing,doesnt matter which way multi probes are used just put one on each terminal of the injector with the plug taken off it.

If dont want to remove plug then one probe on yellow/black & one probe on the colour wire of the injector u are testing.

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ok sweetazz will do that tomorrow!!

as ECU-MAN mentioned if the ohms is:

"1.5 - 2.5 ohm then they are low ohm and need the resistor block ( 5 to 7 ohm ) <-- is this still classified as low ohms?"


10-13 ohms dont need a resistor block right - classified as High Ohms.?

:wave:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by XB-16-AX

ok sweetazz will do that tomorrow!!

as ECU-MAN mentioned if the ohms is:

"1.5 - 2.5 ohm then they are low ohm and need the resistor block ( 5 to 7 ohm ) <-- is this still classified as low ohms?"


10-13 ohms dont need a resistor block right - classified as High Ohms.?

:wave:

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correct,but the actual figures ive read are in impedance,which is a product of resistance & the reactance a coil has against itself to give a final ohm figure.

so i'm assuming its 1.5-2.5ohm impedance which would actually give a lower figure of resistance,because there is no reactance when the coil is inactive.

If all that confuses u,i have a set of both sitting in my garage & i'll give u figures on them tomorrow so u can compare

low ohm peak hold injectors - 1.5 - 2.5 ohm
higher ohm saturated injectors 10-13 ohms
resistor block 5 to 7 ohm

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ECU-MAN

low ohm peak hold injectors - 1.5 - 2.5 ohm
higher ohm saturated injectors 10-13 ohms
resistor block 5 to 7 ohm

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sweetaz

thanks alot guys!!

i checked my injectors and they each read about 12.3 ohms..

so i dont need the injector resistor box, but there are some plugs (2) that is taped together with the resistor plugs ..

does anyone know if they plug into something?

also i need to know what are the 2 black with grey dots wires that is coming from the engine loom to the engine fuse box?

and there is one white with grey dots wire coming from the engine loom to the engine fuse box?

anyone know what these wires are?

and from the ECU loom there is 2 wires going to the engine fuse box too...forgot to write down the colours but on of them is A6 on the ECU pin orange/black PO2H <--what is this wire for? are there any wires from the ECU that is required to be connected directly to the engine fuse box???? if so what are they?

also there is 2 relays and some other plugs with it i think one of them is a air flow sensor plug where at the tip it has this black thinngy looking thing <---are these required?

Please note OBD1 P30 ECU is in use.

help in need!

PO2H = power oxygen sensor heater org/blk ground switched

is this loom your asking q's about OBDI or OBDO ???

take photos of the "thingys" not quite sure what you mean. hondas dont use air flow meters

Yep,pics please,think your trying to do too much.

What is the engine loom(wiring on the actual motor) arrangement on the B16,all plugs on one side or a couple plugs each side?

Are u still putting the obd1 loom from engine connectors to the ecu,dashboard etc?

I think i know the black thingy your talking about,does it have a pink & a brown wire connected to it? I still dont know what it is, but u wont be using it.Looks like some sort of optical sensor or something that ties in with the A/C system,prob detects fan movement or who knows?

If your using obd1 car loom,stop playing with the power circuits now,leave it to the end,all the power you need will be already at the main relay & ecu position for you to splice into the p30 connectors.That is unless your removing all the old wiring or doing wire tucks or similar.

The only thing you will have to do to the engine fuse box is run a new alternator supply,because the fuse box is on the other side compared to civic.
If your putting in ELD,ie using civic fuse box then u will be touching the engine fuse box a lot.

All i do is re-pin the jumper connector for the injectors off the Obd1 loom where the resister block was. Sound like you may me talking about the intake air temp sensor and yes you do need it unless you write it out the ecu.Also sounds like the relays are for the A/C (condensor fan and compressor).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CRXer

Yep,pics please,think your trying to do too much.

What is the engine loom(wiring on the actual motor) arrangement on the B16,all plugs on one side or a couple plugs each side?

Are u still putting the obd1 loom from engine connectors to the ecu,dashboard etc?

If your using obd1 car loom,stop playing with the power circuits now,leave it to the end,all the power you need will be already at the main relay & ecu position for you to splice into the p30 connectors.That is unless your removing all the old wiring or doing wire tucks or similar.

The only thing you will have to do to the engine fuse box is run a new alternator supply,because the fuse box is on the other side compared to civic.
If your putting in ELD,ie using civic fuse box then u will be touching the engine fuse box a lot.

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Ok this is what i did today,..

YES - i am using the OBD1 loom, basically everything on the engine and loom going to the ECU.

I ditched the old OBD0 looms EVERYTHING that was connected to the D16Z2 engine going to --> ECU. but there was some wires from the ) 0BD0 wires that was incabin that i had to use e.g. fuel pump / main relay, speed sensor, ELD, brake light, CEL etc.

but i am still going to use the OBD0 fuse box as it has some dash power/wires going directly to it and all the other crap like head light, a/c, hazard fuses etc etc.

i think the main wires that are connected to the old ECU was - PA,TA sensors, Ignition timing adjustment sensor, TDC, CKP, MAP, O2 sensors, injectors, etc etc which im not going to use as the P30 OBD1 has these wires complete going to the P30 ECU.

YES - i think it mayb an air temp sensor but the funny thing is why is it located in the same bunch of looms with the relays?

in regards to the relays im talking about will i need these? as im keeping the same plugs and looms for the OBD0 A/C and radiator fans which has their own relays too, which i will just cut off the OBD0 wires from the incabin and solder them to the designated pins on the OBD1 P30 ecu.

ECU-MAN - i will be using the majority of the OBD1 hardness, plugs, looms - as i mentioned b4 ive got eveyrthing form the engine to the engine fuse box to the ECU looms and wires and plugs.

I will take photos tomorrow and see what happens.

will keep u guys updated.

is this what your talking about? Black sensor at bottom of pic.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...00121Small.jpg

If so u dont need it,its a climate control device of some sort.

Just leave all the original cooling/AC system relays & wiring in place,& do what you are doing at the ecu.

above pic is the atmospheric air temp sensor for climate control

YESSS!!! - legend!! thanks for that pic ay!!

phew!! yes that is the othe shieett i was talking about ...so i dont need it - basically what is on ur pic ALL OF DAT CRAP??? and i can just unplug or seperate it from the loom right - lock it up and throw away the key right?

i did remember seeing a headlight plug aswell?? i was like wtf?? could i just cut them off?

i will take pics of the problems i encounter and post it only on this thread!!

thanks alot crxer & ecu-man ..

will keep u guys posted!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ECU-MAN

above pic is the atmospheric air temp sensor for climate control

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Ahhh,thanx,being dying to know that:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by XB-16-AX

phew!! yes that is the othe shieett i was talking about ...so i dont need it - basically what is on ur pic ALL OF DAT CRAP??? and i can just unplug or seperate it from the loom right - lock it up and throw away the key right?

i did remember seeing a headlight plug aswell?? i was like wtf?? could i just cut them off?

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Yes thats what i did,untape the loom & seperate all the redundant shit out,leaving just the engine related stuff.

I drove my car an hour ago & all the stuff in the pic wasnt in my car,its all original still.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CRXer

Yes thats what i did,untape the loom & seperate all the redundant shit out,leaving just the engine related stuff.

I drove my car an hour ago & all the stuff in the pic wasnt in my car,its all original still.

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sweetazz .

well tomorrow is going to be a mission ...starting on the full engine loom, wires etc ..

so hopefully evertyhing will go as planned...

ive already got the alternator wired up directly to the OBD0 fuse box and the starter motor hooked up and already re-positioned the positive + cable to the correct side, grounded the tranny, and extended the vtec solenoid single wire..and this other single plug that was right next to the thermostat i think its the heater sensor or temp sender/sensor..

BUT can u tell me exactly what is the two wire plug that is right below the vtec solenoid single wire?

as in can u tell me what wire colour is on the left and the right ??? as the wires of the plugs was taken off and just left hanging, now i dont know which one is suppose to be on the left or right? ... its a 2 wire plug - ITS NOT THE GREEN PLUG WHICH IS ON THE LEFT OF THE SOLENOID SINGLE PLUG - the one im talking about is the one on the FAR RIGHT!!

cheers!

I think your talking about the VTEC Pressure Switch

Quote:

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Originally Posted by XB-16-AX

as in can u tell me what wire colour is on the left and the right ??? as the wires of the plugs was taken off and just left hanging, now i dont know which one is suppose to be on the left or right? ... its a 2 wire plug - ITS NOT THE GREEN PLUG WHICH IS ON THE LEFT OF THE SOLENOID SINGLE PLUG - the one im talking about is the one on the FAR RIGHT!!

cheers!

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if its a green connector then its VTEC pressure switch, if its Grey it will be ECT

doesnt matter what the polarity is.

can you tell us what colour the wires are. it will help in indentifing the connector.

Which one?
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2..._1075Small.jpg

Could even be the one in my palm,the reversing switch

Ok i wired up everything ... but she didnt start and didnt even crank, fuel supply is ok and main relays are working for the first try..

then i check the wires coming from the engine to the ECU and they all seem to be in the correct places.

Then i looked in the engine bay and noticed that there are 3 plugs.

1st plug is the injector resistor plug which has a cover on it. which i didnt need to hook up. <-- this is ok!

2nd plug has lots of pins in it and is not pluged in to anything
-does anyone know if this plug is actually required to enable for the car to start and run???

(see pic below, this pic was taken from my mates B18C which has the same plugs as a sample)

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...singplugs2.jpg

3rd plug is a 2 wire plug which has a fat black/yellow and black/white.
(see pic below, taken from my mates B18C as a sample)

-i checked out the starter motor and the round crimp is connected to the starter with a 10mm bolt and then the wire leads to the + of the engine fuse box. <-- this wire was fine.

Then i looked at the other connector on the starter and has the fat black/white wire which leads to the 3rd plug i was talking about and was not plugged into anything. So i checked the main relay and got power source from there which was the same colour as well. <-- this one is ok!

BUT the fat black/yellow wire which came from the 2 plug distributor which also had a blue wire... now where does these two wires go?????

update - i managed to hook up the fat black/yellow wire ... she now cranks but wont fire up!! the blue wire is still not connected to anything.- can anyone confirm this?

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...butorplugs.jpg

coz i checked out my mates B18C and has the sames plugs which is connected but these wires are not with the ECU looms, it is on the left side of the engine bay -seperate looms which i think goes back to the main relays and incabin etc..

sorry fellaz for the crappy pic , i hope it will help abit ..

does any one know what could be the problem why she wont fire up?

ignitor?? <-- does this have something to do with it?

ignition wires?

possible distributor?

starter motor? but this one is a good item, it doesnt make any bad azz clicking sounds.

basically ive got 2 wires from the ECU incabin where one of them has something to do with data connector wire which goes nowhere - so i didnt wire this up.

then the ELD - electronic load detector wire - i dont know where to hook this up to.. can anyone tell me where i can wire this up to?

The car is not showing any CEL codes, the concertos main relay is in the car just behind the stereo setup and shes clicking fine, fuel is supplied from the rear and to the engine -injectors as i can here her wind! .. as i said above she cranks but no signal to fire her up.

The battery is fine as its reading 12.55 volts with everything off, then whilst cranking she drops to 9.46volts ..is this normal?

also from searching on the www. people are saying something about pushing down the clutch pedal then try starting it? is this necessary?

havent checked if i got spark coz ran out of time - will get that checked tomorrow.

BIG HELP IS NEEDED!!! any suggestions - but i am really concerned about the massive plug that is not connected to anything as above pic.

thanks guys!

connector 2A is power distribution wires one goes to stater ( blk/wht ) i think

connector 2B is the connector that has some of the following signals

- ICM igniton modual signal
- revers light switch,
- coolant temp sender
- oil pressure switch
- stater motor signal

and a few more things


the blue wire is tacho signal and does not connect to anything

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ECU-MAN

connector 2A is power distribution wires

connector 2B is the connector that has some of the following signals

- ICM igniton modual
- revers light switch,
- coolant temp sender
- oil pressure switch
- stater motor signal

and a few more things


the blue wire is tacho signal and does not connect to anything

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ok.. well its obvious that my ECU is not getting any thing from the 2B connector.

Do u have or know of when i can get the wiring diagrams for the 2B connector im talking about? coz obviously the ICM and starter signal wire is required to fire the car up right? as this is very critical

in regards to the 2A distributor connector most of the wires from there comes straight from the ECU right? or is it with the 2B connector too?

anyone confirm this?

PLS DELETE THIS THREAD AS ITS NO LONGER A RESISTOR PROBLEM!! i have new thread!!

ok
ill unlock the other thread and lock this one

keep it all to one thread now please