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Sorry if this has been address b4, but I've done a search...
I'm currently installing splits into the doors of my 97 Gsi, however having huge amount of trouble trying to get the wires though the gromit in the door due to there being a terminal in the way. There are no other holes which I can run them though.
Are there any other options other than taking the door off and drilling in a new hole?
Cheers
I was able to drill a hole in my crx thru from the speaker hole.Was a bit difficult,had to pull the bit out of the drill to the last few mm's so it would reach & centre punch the hole so i could start it,as your drilling at an angle.
Dunno if u can do it on a DC4 or not,maybe have to buy a longer drill bit.
what splits you running?
Hey Underglow. Its probably easier to use the existing wiring in the doors. You can just run the wires from the existing speakers to the Xover... then run some new wires from the Xover to the woofer and tweeter.
Dont go cutting or drilling holes into the precious Honda!!! Unless you're running huge amounts of power to the splits, you'd be hard pressed to pick the difference. :)
exactly why i asked what splits his running.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiwi
lol.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiwi
Really? The standar wires are TINY and designed for like 12wrms each or something aren't they? I'm not running huge power, but 125wrms per door I would have though would require more than standard wire?
I'm also having hard time trying to find the correlating wire of one side of the terminal to the other side! Are they differnt colours?
Cheers peeps!
125wrms from what type of amp though ....
In a perfect world you'd have some nice speaker wire running from the amps to the speakers, but im running some nice mb quart splits on standard speaker wire through the door and they sound great.
What type of amps and speakers are you using.
what brand? 125wrms, is quite a bit.
BUT, still.. what brand is it?
Hmmm, not running top notch gear, just stuff I could get cheap.
Audiobahn FTB26T rated at 125wrms, american SPL speakers
V-tec Clarion 4x150wrms, 2 channels of which pwr the splits.
i reckon, if you can run it, run it, if not, won't be a big difference if any.
I agree... :) Id put the 25 watts from my old Lanzar Optidrive amp against the 150 watts from a Clarion amp anyday. :)
Not being smart ... im just saying that stock wires should be fine. Just make sure you dont skimp on the Sub wiring ;)
You use stock wires? Just seems so wrong to me! :( even so I've still got teh problem with finind the right wires from the terminal. Am I just blind?Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiwi
What do you recomend using for sub wiring? I was using 8 gauge on my last system lol, u'd probally recommend that I just fine trail of water to conduct the required electicity... jk mate :thumbsup:
fior that amp?
yeah 8 gauge is fine.
Actually, I've got a 4 gauge kit lying around so I'll probalyl use that lol.
Hahah i like the sound of the water.
Dont get me wrong ....big speaker wire is always best, but given the option of cutting up your car?? With the gear you're running Id just use the stock for the fronts and see how you go. When I was using my gear to compete in SQ comps i would never have used stock wiring ... but in my Euro I didnt want to mess with the car... so factory it is... and they sound fine :)
As for the terminals ... im not sure on the Integra wiring. Can maybe just google for the wiring diagrams.. or maybe use a cheap gauge to work out which is the power wire from the factory wiring.
Cmon boys...
were talkin mass produced hondas not genuine phase III or ferrari
get the drill out & put some decent cable in,then u wont have to worry bout undersized,understranded, multiple joined cables which are loomed up with lots of power, which u cant find the ends of in any case.....
lol, i know it's mass produced hondas.Quote:
Originally Posted by CRXer
i've wired up a customers car using top of the line pioneer splits.
i let him listen to both, one just stock, and one using thicker wiring, he couldn't tell the difference.
1. the speakers aren't that great
2. he wasn't running a powerful amp to run em anyways.
if he was running a fantastic setup, sure, i highly recommend it to him.
if his not, i will say, change it if you can, if it's easy rah rah rah, but don't go killing people if you can't
lol
FUll DIY here.
It is not easy though
http://www.team-integra.net/sections...?ArticleID=257
Wow, great writeup! Much better than taking off my door and drilling into it :PQuote:
Originally Posted by bungsai
Thanks mate.
It still involves drilling the door, but i know that in my da9 you don't have to take the door off to do it.
The last time i was rotating my wheels i removed the plastic guard in the wheel well to clear out all the leaves/dirt stuck in there, I noticed that you can access the same section of door that the stock harness goes in, and you have enough room to ease a drill in there.
Just remember to stay out of the way of the stock harness, rust-proof and use a grommet.
(edit: Just followed Bungsai's link, and saw that they have an alternative page using the same method as me. http://www.team-integra.net/sections...ArticleID=1119 )
I'd say that if you can fit the wiring in the harness like in Bungsai's link, and were confident about not damaging the harness then you should go with that. Looks better and no tampering with metal.
150wrms to each speaker is not 'that' small. How much power was your customer running through them?Quote:
Originally Posted by destrukshn
I've run speaker wire into the doors of my current DC2R and my old DA9. It's not easy, but i can be done. And no, the doors do NOT have to be removed on either. No metal is drilled. No rubber is cut. The final product is complete stealth :)
It's f*&king tricky to pass the cable thru the loom on the drivers side; prob because im right handed, and theres more cables in the right loom due to the power windows/door controller etc.
With the DC2, i removed the side indicator lights and fed the cable down behind the quater panel so there's a little more slack in the loom. It makes the feeding part easier.
Drill thru the square plastic plug with a 6mm bit. I cant explain it without pics, but the whole assembly falls appart and unplugs from the door.
Hopefully someone has some pics of what im talking about.
Goodluck dude.