how good is the STD b18c7 oil cooler?

how good is the STD b18c7 oil cooler?

if in fact it could also be on b16/b18 .. im not sure..

what temperatures do u see?

regards,
dan:thumbsup:

im not so sure if the OEM B187 has an oil coller, does it?

They have a Coolant to Oil heat exchanger OEM. Ie, the coolant cools your oil.

How efficent is it and what temps?

It depends on how hard your driving, atmospheric conditions etc.

I am not sure with normal city driving temps you will get with a stock setup.

I run a 9 row oil cooler and also Mugen Thermo and Fan switch. Normal driving around the streets, I get oil temps of 90 degrees more or less, thats with my water temp sitting around 82 degrees.

hmmm and does this coolant to oil exchanged work through a condenser sorta radiator type arrangement, or is it purely the water and oil galleries in the block?

AFAIK , its a "oil seperator" on the back of the block. It vents to the "PVC" system and back into your inlet manifold.

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Originally Posted by Zilli

hmmm and does this coolant to oil exchanged work through a condenser sorta radiator type arrangement, or is it purely the water and oil galleries in the block?

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The oil filter mounting block has coolant running through it from memory. I'm sure that is what DLO01 refering to.

EDIT: I think your on the wrong track Ben.

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Originally Posted by SPEEDCORE

The oil filter mounting block has coolant running through it from memory. I'm sure that is what DLO01 refering to.

EDIT: I think your on the wrong track Ben.

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:thumbsup::thumbsup:... its an actually sandwich plate as per described in speedcore's description..


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has anyone tracked it and with an oil temp gauge.. I wonder how efficient it is..

i would say its a mini oil cooler lol. It there to keep oil and coolant temps about the same.

If your planing on doing more then 5 laps then oil cooler is needed. We hit 100-110 degrees doing 2-3 laps, thats a stock ITR motor.

yup corrected - im confusing it with the oil separator on the back of the block :) Thats part of the PVC system.

Get a cooler as said if u plan to track

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Originally Posted by fatboyz39

If your planing on doing more then 5 laps then oil cooler is needed. We hit 100-110 degrees doing 2-3 laps, thats a stock ITR motor.

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however the temp could platau out..

even people with coolers hit 125 degrees but it stays there constantly..

I am really considering one now..

but have read many post which suggests that an oil cooler isnt needed on a std ITR and USDM GSR (vtir)... and Spoon doesnt even reccomend one for the ITR.. Trust doesnt even make a kit for the ITR .. just the normal dc2... just makes me wonder..

I am really wanting one.. i think i might just get oil temp guage first to see..

anyone got one i can borrow to wack inside my engine bay ehehe:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

borrrow what? lol

I got together a custom oil cooler, 19 row cooler, braided lines, 90 degree fittings, sandwich plate. Totalled just under $300.

fc3s or mistu vr4 oil coolers go for 80-120 at jap import shops

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Originally Posted by DLO01

I run a 9 row oil cooler and also Mugen Thermo and Fan switch. Normal driving around the streets, I get oil temps of 90 degrees more or less, thats with my water temp sitting around 82 degrees.

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What were the temps before the Thermostat, fan switch and oil cooler?

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Originally Posted by shebangs

What were the temps before the Thermostat, fan switch and oil cooler?

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Before I got my cooling gear, from memory for on the street driving, i think coolant temps were about 95 degrees, and oil temps were about 90 degrees.

Hi ,

I am not sure that model came with coil overs std.

Any how maybe spend a bit of money and get good bang for buck.

Try some Ksport coil overs they have them for your model and they bolt streight in.

Cheers

ummmm.... what the shit?

rofl!! the thread got killed by a noob

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DLO01

Before I got my cooling gear, from memory for on the street driving, i think coolant temps were about 95 degrees, and oil temps were about 90 degrees.

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thanks fior the info..

Hmzssz....would you have a temp reading after its been driven hard... cause 95 degrees in my books are fine... no cooler required..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tweakit

Hi ,

I am not sure that model came with coil overs std.

Any how maybe spend a bit of money and get good bang for buck.

Try some Ksport coil overs they have them for your model and they bolt streight in.

Cheers

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Cool ill mount some Ksport coilovers and see how much cooler my car becomes eheheh

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BlitZ

thanks fior the info..

Hmzssz....would you have a temp reading after its been driven hard... cause 95 degrees in my books are fine... no cooler required..

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Yeh, but thats the thing. With your oil, driving 'normal' is not a problem, it will stay constant 90 degrees. When you start driving it a 'little hard' it quickly jumps over 100 degrees. If you continuously drive hard, 120, 130 are no problems to reach.

Depends what you are using your car for?

If its track, I'd definalty get a oil cooler, even a koyo or pwr coolant radiator. You can go beyond the efficiency of your stock radiator and then water temps become a problem.

hi , i run a dc2 r with a low temp thermostat and switch and have recently fitted a defi link oil temp gauge , last time i ran phillip island the gauge hit 140 degrees. normal driving sits on 90 , freaked me out see 140, just run std oil as well. thats 1 standing and 3 laps only!

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Cool ill mount some Ksport coilovers and see how much cooler my car becomes eheheh

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Sorry guys wrong thread, Had 2 going at the same time.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kevster

hi , i run a dc2 r with a low temp thermostat and switch and have recently fitted a defi link oil temp gauge , last time i ran phillip island the gauge hit 140 degrees. normal driving sits on 90 , freaked me out see 140, just run std oil as well. thats 1 standing and 3 laps only!

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Yeh, there you go ^^^ someone with experience. Thats getting to danger temps there.

i ran an oil cooler on my previous car, didnt get the chance to track it but on the highway i had to cover the oil cooler as the temp was getting pretty cool.

now thats in interesting implication

what happens there? If it is driven on the highway, it will cool down as there isnt much load on the motor when cruising...

i think engines need to be at operating temp, if it fails below that then the oil isnt doing its job of lubricating the internals...

someone can elaborate on that more

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Originally Posted by joyride

i ran an oil cooler on my previous car, didnt get the chance to track it but on the highway i had to cover the oil cooler as the temp was getting pretty cool.

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Yeh, mine seem ok. Don't think I have seen it less that 85 once its up to opperating temps.

You could set up a thermostat arrangement.

Its a good idea to let your engine warm up a little longer on cold start up too, as the Oil Cooler of course starts cooling once your driving an have air flow.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DLO01

You could set up a thermostat arrangement.

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yeah true, i didnt have one on my setup.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kevster

hi , i run a dc2 r with a low temp thermostat and switch and have recently fitted a defi link oil temp gauge , last time i ran phillip island the gauge hit 140 degrees. normal driving sits on 90 , freaked me out see 140, just run std oil as well. thats 1 standing and 3 laps only!

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thanks mate, thats the answer i have been searching for from a million and 16 forums.. no one could tell me..

thanks man...

Im most likily getting temp guage to chep temp out .. scared now..:thumbsup:

I'm interested in this as well.

I'll be racing my car in motorkhana so it'll be going through short burtsts of hard driving and then it'll be sitting idle for a while and then turned off until my next run.

Do you guys think an oil cooler would be overkill for this type of driving?? Maybe a full sized alloy radiator would be a better option instead of the halfsize that comes with the car?? Seein as though the oil is cooled by the engine coolant??

Thanks

J

OK i have just read about MR spoon advising honda's dont need oil coolers on dc2r and ek9 la..

Mr spoon in a option mag said you are better off with no cooler as the honda designed engines can run at 140degrees and still redline with no issues..
the cooler is more trouble than its worth on a honda...

Dont kill the messenger.. this was gathered from honda tech

Yes, that info is correct.

I spoke to a reputable person that prepares race cars including hondas just recently. They did not even run a cooler in their DC2R and have had no problems.

Temps are apparently no probems, installing a cooler alone will cause pressure problems, especially in the top end of the engine where pressure is lowest. So yes, they will cause more harm then good and they are not needed.

I am taking my Cooler out this weekend. :thumbsup:

Sounds like i should stay away from oil coolers. !

what about a turbo B18C2????

i'd guess I'd need an oil cooler for that?

Well cause the oil is flowing through the turbo i guess you'd be exceding the expections of the standard cooling system.

I'd think you would have to upgrade for a turbo setup. Wait for someone else more knowledgeable to post tho. lol

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Originally Posted by yourfather

what about a turbo B18C2????

i'd guess I'd need an oil cooler for that?

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yeash.. you are considered half nissan:zip:.. haahaha get an oil cooler :thumbsup:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DLO01

Yes, that info is correct.

I spoke to a reputable person that prepares race cars including hondas just recently. They did not even run a cooler in their DC2R and have had no problems.

Temps are apparently no probems, installing a cooler alone will cause pressure problems, especially in the top end of the engine where pressure is lowest. So yes, they will cause more harm then good and they are not needed.

I am taking my Cooler out this weekend. :thumbsup:

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this is the first change in comotion... hahaaha .. lets just hope we dont blow

half nissan, sif....

i will be able to turn corners.

Top stuff yf!!!

I shall honour that in my sig :P

I'd rather have better oil pressure through the entire engine then have engine oil runnin at too low a temperature.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BlitZ

this is the first change in comotion... hahaaha .. lets just hope we dont blow

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Ha ha.. yeh, am very confident though with decent oil.

Yeh, turbo is a different story. A Cooler accompianied by a Pressure Guage would be more use in that situation as well as adding a spacer in the Relief Valve to increase pressure.

Stock pressure at WOT is 75psi on B series motor so adjust it to suit, I'd go above that, not below it.

*edit* I never had any upgraged cooling on my Turbo Delsol (B16A2) and had no problems whatsoever. It was just used on the street

danny: so no oil cooler hey?

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Originally Posted by Astro

danny: so no oil cooler hey?

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well i think its too late to get a cooler by thursday hahah..
I wouldnt touch and oil cooler without oil pressure gauge anyways.. and im too poor to get both hehe..:thumbsup:

hahhaah

i don't see why you'll lose oil pressure using a oil cooler?? its a closed system, therefore it shouldn't lose oil pressure.

Its more 'volume' to fill. The bigger the area the more the more pressure loss.

Like the intake side of a turbo setup. The longer the piping and depending on efficiency of the piping & intercooler the larger the pressure drop.

The pressue will always be Highest at its source.

'Resistance' through channels causes pressure loss.

looks like oil coolers are over rated , like the idea of relocating the oil filter though. have to reset the oil gauge warning buzzer/light to go off at 150 degrees!

its like having a crazy massive intercooler for a small small turbo.. closed system, but crazy pressure lost...



Air, water, oil all can compress..... the more void/space you push through the more compression is lost along the way.. *well it makes sense to me. eheh

I reckon a SUITABLE oil cooler set up will give a much better protection for TRACK driving especially for hi rev engine like VTEC.

Heat can build up in LONG period of high rev. driving condition very quickly, the intense heat that deep inside the engine may be over the normal working temp of the engine oil before the heat reach the cooling water.
Therefore the internal overheat will downgrade the function of the oil much quicker.

Agreed that suitable size/type of oil cooler and size/length of hose required to minimise oil pressure drop.