car stalls after 10 seconds moving

today, took out the AC and changed a battery, then in the afternoon, tried to drive the car , when the car idling , it was fine, but as soon as i put in the gear and move a little bit , 10 seconds later, car started shaking and stalled. The only thing happend i could think of is when i put on the battery, cos the wrting is up side down, i hooked the positive on to negative terminal , then when i hooked the negtive on to positve, i got sparks, then realized got wrong side, swapped over, the car started right up, let it idle 10 or 15 mins, everything seems to be normal. yeah, it is really weird, last time i tried, what i did was, let it idel, was all fine, then put in the reverse , release the cultch and pedal the acceclator is little for 2 seconds then pedal back in and stopped there and wait, 5 seconds later, the car started shaking and stalled, can anyone give me some ideas what could have happend, the ground is fine i checked, and this morning when i drove ,was fine, but that was before i did all that, cheers

battery light come on the car?

no, no lights come on, only after the car stalled ,battery light and oil lights come on which is normal

You checked your fuses?

thats not good for the cars electricals, you could have damaged the ECU

check the PGMFI ECU for codes.

does the batt light go out after the car starts.

you need to give up more info about your car

what is it, is it auto/manual efi/ carb ect

sorry man, car is a manual EFI, yes the batt light go out after the car starts, basiclly, everything is like normal before i put in the gear try to drive it .I know it is really bad for the electricals : (

hey guys - ive just checked the car.

Starts fine. But idles alittle rough. IF left, the idle will drop off and stall quickly. But , if the car is revved the engine will not stall.

It is giving code 20 (ELD) and its a JDM ecu.

It blew a small 20A fuse in the fuse box ~ horn something....

IMO the ECU is rooted

Ouch! 12v pimped through the chassis and electrical grounds, I smell a burnt ECU too

wouldn't the car have troubles maintaing smooth operation under revs if th eECU was rooted.

What i mean is, if the ECU was rooted the car wouldn't be able tosit at 3,000 rpm all day wouldn't it??

Depends on what part of the ECU is damaged.

There are many pins and many IC sections on the ECU chip, part of the F/A mapping memory could have been toasted for instance.

yeh true.

How can you tell for certain?? Just swap out the ecu i guess yeh?

thanks guys for the replies, so apart from ECU, any other possibilities, chers

Yep borrow a compatible one from a friend, or maybe take the car to a honda dealer and ask them to diagnose the ECU for a small fee, they should have some spare testrig ECU's lying around. Or get a cheap 2nd hand one from a Japanese wrecker

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Originally Posted by integraboy22

thanks guys for the replies, so apart from ECU, any other possibilities, chers

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pretty much anything electrical could have been damaged, such as the Dizzy coil/igniter, fuel pump, alternator.


I would take the car to an Auto electrician and get them to check the car over.

Hey Ben

I can lend you an ECU if you want to try it out and see if it fixed the problem

thanks ecu man, ben got a spare one atm already

cool

good luck with it

hey all, it is a little update , today, we put another ecu on but no luck, same thing still happened, i let the car idled 10 mins and rev hard on it , everything is normal, but as soon as i put in the gear and started moving , 5 seconds later , car started struggling and stalled.

The thng we found out today is when i turned the key (not start) you know you supposed to hear a click after engine light off, that sound now mixes with immobliser sound (only once short one ) , also we replace the 20a horn fuse , it blew again, when i turned the key in and tapped the horn button, the immobliser sound followed the rhythm (four times instead of once), so i'm totally confused now , can anyone please any ideas , cheers

One thing i forgot to say is when i tried to drive it today, cos the hood was on, before it started getting struggled i did hear imobliser made little sound, so yeah

electrical prob with the immoboliser then yeh??

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Originally Posted by JasonGilholme

electrical prob with the immoboliser then yeh??

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hey man, i just want to see if the immobliser can cause the problem i had, how ? how to solve it ? do it myself or call the auto electrican guy:p

dunno if this will help but i had a problem with an 04 astra. It would rev freely by itself at the lights, stall out by itself and lock itself even if i was in the car driving down the freeway.

it ended up beinga problem with the key. A frequency problem or something.

Like i said it might not help but it could lead you to something.

other then that it could be some dodgey wiring somewhere.

Goodluck.

Jase

my two points immobliser link to fuel pump and starter motor

*updated* -

as said , the 20 fuse for "horn/backup" keeps blowing.
Also , the horn is obviously blowing hte fuse BUT when you push the horn , the noise can be heard on the alarm siren ( a slight tap tap)
This means there is wires touching somewhere....

Perhaps the battery short stuffed something up inside - rooted the immobilizer ?

with out seeing the car it sounds like the immobiliser/alarm is having problems and cutting out the fuel pump when you start to drive off.


quick test for this is to unplug the alarm and take it for a drive,
or
connect a test light to the fuel pump wire and see what happens to it when it stalls. ( should go out after it stalls not before )

also try another PGMFI main relay

I've got 2 idea that i think maybe the problem

1. Have you checked your earth wires? maybe 1 is cooked and the 2 item are using each other as a ground.

2. 2 wires have melted together and shorting each other out.

ill try my good main relay 2mrw on the car , and have alook at disconnecting the alarm too. I think its wires melted together too...

any idea guys on why the horn fuse keeps blowing now ?
Or why the "horn" bleeps thru the alarm siren ?

Sounds like the fault didnt occur long enough to melt insulation.

What car is it? assuming early DC2?

Does this thing have cruise control?

replace the blown fues with a globe,

the globe will light up ( instead of blowing the fues )

unplug stuff untill the globe goes out. gives you an idea where to look to find/fix the fault


find a circuit diagram of the car and follow that through, chances are a blown device somewhere.

hey guys , thanks for the help along the way, appreciated a lot, more update, the car seems to be ok to drive now, what we did was disconnected the alarm system, we found out the reason why it shuts as soon as it moved is brake, when we tested today, brake bleeped through immobliser as well like horn, so basicly the car is ok to drive now, but the brake light doesn't work , just wondering if anyone can help me out to figure how to fix the brake lights , the wire must have melted with the horn wires to short each other out , or something like that, cos it is pretty dangerous to drive around without brake light, i want to fix it asap, cheers guys

The horn and the brake lights run off the same fuse so i guessing there is an open between the fuse box and under the dash. If you need you can just run a contant power wire to the brake light swich until you find the open.:)

hey man, can you please give an idea how to do it , i could not find any wiring diagram, cheers

Hey dude,

which 10A fuse are u talkin about?

the brake lights are on the 20A horn fuse in the engine bay fuse box.

did u end up replacing the horn fuse?

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Originally Posted by CRXer

Hey dude,

which 10A fuse are u talkin about?

the brake lights are on the 20A horn fuse in the engine bay fuse box.

did u end up replacing the horn fuse?

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hey man, sorry typed wrong , don't worry, yeah, i don't think i want to replace the fuse again since they might have a open between fuse box and brake switch. I will do it next week to find out, thanks man