Just got my ORC Clutch and Flywheel from EdwR today. They look really good. Have booked to install on Tue. Hope I can handle the clutch. Will give you guys some reviews wafter that.
http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/7059/1000942qr6.jpg
Printable View
Just got my ORC Clutch and Flywheel from EdwR today. They look really good. Have booked to install on Tue. Hope I can handle the clutch. Will give you guys some reviews wafter that.
http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/7059/1000942qr6.jpg
Gas,
Looks good hope it works well.
Can you PM me price and part number, thanks.
price and part number as advertised in trader sectionQuote:
Originally Posted by mugen88
This is nice stuff mate. Don't have to worry about the result.
I know as i read a lot of threads to come up with this brand.Quote:
Originally Posted by ALN
Mate if it is anything like the dc5r one you will love it. nice and grippy without the super hard pedal feel.Quote:
Originally Posted by TypeG
nice buy. look forward to your review.
Any specs? Weight differences compared to oem?
Clutch looks damn sexy too, by the way!
How much is installation?
very nice!!
whats the weight of the flywheel? and the clamping pressure?
errr... isnt it suppose to have a thrust bearing too, or just not in pic? l o l
that's inside the box... not sure if that thing is what you mean.Quote:
Originally Posted by gambate
You're supposed to get a Honda OEM thrust bearing.
K24 using K20 one so SHOULD feel the same...... =)Quote:
Originally Posted by itr_dc5
Promax in Melbourne charge me $300Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
they are the cheapest quote I got and they are very friendly
http://www.oguraclutch.co.jp/orc/orc_ex~1plate.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by ZEi20T
http://www.oguraclutch.co.jp/orc/pdf...cat_1plate.pdf
3.8kg flywheel
Sorry, couldn't find it. Can you either link or let us know?Quote:
Originally Posted by TypeG
Cheers man - so $1295 including lightweight flywheel. Sounds good! Keep us updated with how it goes.Quote:
Originally Posted by TypeG
just find out u cant use OEM bearing for this clutch as my mechanic hasnt seen my bearing wrapped in the box and fit them with OEM bearing and at the end.... cant go in any gearQuote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
now they have to do it again :p
Pick up my car yesterday, have spent a whole day driving it around. The pedal feel is not heavy compare to stock but different feel when u step into it just like pressing a button. I found the clutch bites really hard once i put into gear. I am lucky enough to manage no embarassing stalls so far as I do give a little bit rev for the start. I think I will need to get use to what the rev range is if I want to drive comfortably. ORC kit do have some noise when u press the clutch in but it is still acceptable since my header's noise is more annoying =). The lighter flywheel has also made a noticeable improvement in response as well to match the clutch. the rev keep on climbing with a quick little drop bewteen each gear the the clutch will bit in and make the rev climb again. Definitely a highly recommended mod or upgrade. Even the 6th gear at 100km/h response in acceleration. I expect to experience shuddering during downshifts if my are not rev-matching. So far that's what my feeling.
hows the idle take off? my friend said its alot harder to take off compare to the old ones he had. the car shudders when in friction point. how high do you rev and maintain your rev when you take off? my friend said he had to get it up to 2.5 - 3k sometimes to keep it a smooth take off.
u are true
i need rev to like 2.5-3 for a smooth take off with a slow release on clutch
would that burn the clutch?? cos in a way you kinda just riding itQuote:
Originally Posted by TypeG
i dun need a smooth take but only when some lady inside my car =)
dnt really answer the qns
i normally rev it to 2.5k or so if i wanna take off smooth aswell. It's one of the down sides of a grippy clutch/ lightweight flywheel - its really easy to burn the clutch when reversing up hill aswell (i just generally avoid it).
To answer your question (friends question) i normally keep the revs at 2.5k for 1-2 seconds to get the car moving then release relatively quickly after that, its just a matter of playing around with what works for you
somehow a smooth take off cant really release quickly if u really need to.
With these clutches, it just takes a bit of getting use to. You dont have to rev that high, its just u have to ride the friction point a little longer before letting the clutch completely out, if you want a "smooth" takeoff. Its all a matter of practice :D
great thx for that. :thumbsup: would that eat the clutch alot?Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_F
he said to me today that he let the clutch go near friction point and then added gas. seemed to worked for him but still jerky. you guys tried this?
thx for all the answers.... i will need sometimes to get use to it
It's probably not good for the clutch to be at 2.5k rpm for an extended time, but with practice I've been able to reduce the time its there to about 1 second. It's generating the initial momentum that's the hard part because the flywheel holds significantly less inertia so it's always trying to stop on you.Quote:
Originally Posted by EK4R
I haven't tried the method your friends been using but i might give it a go :thumbsup:
is this a street/track used clutch? if yes, some rev shouldnt be that bad for the clutch as if I need to drive really smooth, i need to release the clutch really slowly to prevent shuddering in most gear
ok i jst went for lunch with him and had a good drive. sport organic clutch + spoon fly.
upshifting wasnt so bad just had to wait lil bit to get a smooth shift. add alil gas while u change too.
take off was the hard bit. i find it rev it few times before going gets it off pretty good, even at friction point i bliped the throttle and it went off pretty smooth. bite was great, and clutch was alil harder than OEM.
EK4R i went for a drive today paying special attention to my driving technique... I actually only rev it to 1.5k then hold it at the friction point for a bout 1 second before releasing it completely. 2.5k isn't needed for a smooth take off
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_F
lol
seems like i need a lot of practice and may as well remove the engine damper first until i fully control it as it is fxxken shock inside the car =)
just got mine today and the whole clutch/flywheel assembly is only about 9 kilos. so excited to get it installed.
congrats, take photos.
what part no. by the way?
if its the orc one, then its the same one as the dc5. u can see the part number in one of the trader forums (maxhondapower i think)
part number is ORC-309DS-05H. yes I also got it from maxhondapower. Now its discounted to $1180 and its newer model (silent type). Will let u all know when its installed.
pics
http://img363.imageshack.us/img363/6131/img9166cn3.jpg
http://img363.imageshack.us/img363/4053/img9167hw9.jpg
that is one beautiful clutch aye =P
i plan on gettin this down the road too
on my list of many things haha
cant wait to hear your review =D
dang mang dat whoppin nice.....
but for money wise i think i'd spend on greddy emanage ult and tune.
hehe Ive already got the emanage ultimate but still dont have time to tune it yet lol.
hey just to go off topic what harness did you end up getting? boomslang tsx04-06 air and water input ?Quote:
Originally Posted by kitbkk
I got it 2nd hand from the guy started the emanage ultimate thread. Ill ask him about it if I see him comes online.
i think i know who you mean, CL9K24A3.Quote:
Originally Posted by kitbkk
He got the Air + Water input.
Anyhow when you getting your ORC in?
so it should be air+water input then. its because cl9k24a3 and ALN got their harnesses together so I guess they should be the same. Ill have to get the automatic harness modified to suit my manual euro though. will post up in the emanage ultimate thread after its installed.
im thinking of installing both emanage and orc clutch installed next month though.
damn!
crazy mods dude, all up would be almost 1.5k+ to get tuned and clutch installed.
im hoping they are not something near there mate. was told tunning in melbourne is 500. and 300 for clutch/flywheel install.
yeh, hope not either as i am thinking of getting the exedy clutch and FW.Quote:
Originally Posted by kitbkk
damn was quoted $700 for tuning in syd, but need to find somewhere cheaper if not then have to fork out extra $200.
Is your clutch slipping btw and how many kms on stock?
$700 ia expensive IMO. you should better find yourself holidaying in Melbourne and do it here hehehe. my clutch is functioning fine, no slipping or anything at all. Its done 21,000km BTW.
WTF, you dont drive much?????Quote:
Originally Posted by kitbkk
But surprisingly for my car 5yr old and only 65k.
13k km/year.
Yeh was plannin on getting the hondata reflash, but now i think i am just going to get it greddy tuned down in melbourne if its heaps cheaper. Refer us to some guys who are cheap in melbourne if you can.
I have had this installed for sometime now..almost a month or so i think..
First impression, when I first got in my car from the workshop, I straight went on pressing the clutch, it felt a tat much harder, but it pushes ur foot up heaps quicker. It is not really annoying stiff though. Taking off is a bit harder to not stall the car..it wasnt really a smooth take off at all..
First day I drove the car back home I had to run it in quite a bit so I didnt want to rev it hard...
In the last few weeks, after it ran in, I got a chance to drive it hard. The car revs like crazy.. First gear just went like a second. I was like..whoa..time for 2nd gear already. The car just revs a lot freer and I noticed traction problem in almost the whole first gear if flooring when take off. It is harder to concentrate on the RPM to shift up before the rev limiter comes in.
Even though this model is a silent one, it still has a buzzing whining noise. The noise comes when pressing the clutch and let go of throttle. It sounds like wire metal scratching.. But it is not that annoying loud. I did some research before I bought this and it seemed that almost everyone who got this experienced that noise,. Can anyone who got exedy flywheel/clutch kit confirm they experience the same thing?
Friction point has been narrowed down a lot..its like once you meet the point, the clutch just bite and hold it super strongly..
Installing was a biatch...The whole cross member had to be off..Radiator had to be off.. Passenger side suspension had to be off..Gearbox off..Engine mount had to be off as well... I had no idea how typeG got his done for $300.. It was about +/-8 hours job...
Anyway..Im super happy with this...It is hard to drive it slow now hehehe:p
Hope its helpful..
Sounds good. so you reckon the performance increase is noticeable and worth the increased clutch difficulty?
Faster to 100kph you reckon? Rolling response improved in traffic?
For me it is worth it. Not sure if its because its still new and Im still excited about it. To make the car not stall/take off perfectly, you have to apply a bit more throttle, which Im not sure will you not like it to have a car that sounds annoying (revving) OR you just let the car go quietly but it kinds of jumps and rattles a bit when its near the friction point.Quote:
Originally Posted by Suntzu
Performance increase is very noticeable. It just feels like a different car now. Im quite sure it is faster to reach 100km/h. So damn sure:p Rolling response imporves in traffic YES..but which is annoying. You kind of cant just go easy take off like used to now..the car just wants to jump and jump lol.
Hope it makes any sense...:p
how is it reversing uphill , thats wat i was worried about with mine. and it sucked
I find it not much different from taking off though. But Im sure if you have to reverse in a long way...it will stall really badly.Quote:
Originally Posted by EK4R
hehehe when my gearbox dies :( im gonna replace with DC5R LSD box and toda lightwieght flywheel... mmmmm :thumbsup:
whoaa! I just weigh the stock clutch and flywheel! The whole thing weigh 15.7 kilo!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by kitbkk
DAAAAAMMMMNNNN!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by kitbkk
yeah im definately going lightwieght fly! :D
now just gotta find myself a cheap DC5R gearbox :p
will be nice! when your having everything off the car..fit LSD, gearbox, clutch/flywheel.....will be worth the money!
Fking A flywheell , clutch and LSD forTeh WiNanA!
just went for a drive today..long long drive..
well, I didnt drive fast, below speed limit of course..
launching.. tried about 2k RPM, then once I felt that the car had some friction, I tried to floor it all the way, damn,.....it was like bang bang bang bang...wheels hop like crazy.. all the way to 2nd.. Well, I shift at 6.5k RPM, once I push down the clutch, the needle quickly swiped up to 7k RPM.. note that there is no throttle at all when I shift..
And once I release the clutch...the rev is already at 5k RPM. in 2nd gear..
I tried this again when shifting to 3rd...it is still the same.. shift at 6.5k rpm then once release the clutch, its back to 5k rpm again..
I dont think I noticed this before the clutch and flywheel.. hehehehehe
note..I didnt go above speed limit.
would look into a Engine tourqe dampener to help with that wheel hop, something i noticed my euro suffers considerably from.
hey have you gone into a maacas drive through wit this mod? can you still ride the clutch a little in heavy traffic?
Interesting. I really wanna do this mod so bad but without driving a euro with a lightweight flywheel clutch I'm scared that its going to make the work commute a bitch.Quote:
Originally Posted by kitbkk
Eurojaz can you please get this done to your car and give me a drive around town! Cheers
Or just make a trip up to sydney for the next Euro meet :pQuote:
Originally Posted by Suntzu
Im not interested in an ETD for my car. Im not a fan of vibration caused when taking off. Dunno whether that is better than the bang bang bang from wheel hopping though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Euro08Jaz
I dont do maccas drive through LOL. But I do drive everyday in Melbourne traffic as I live in Melbourne city. It is all good. Not a problem for me. I at first thought this mod would'nt suit me coz I have 19", living in city and soft sussy. It is less comfy than stock but still bearable. Once you get used to it, one stall when launching comes onces in a while .its the most day and night difference mod so far...LOL
lol only for youQuote:
Originally Posted by Suntzu
i had this image of kitbkk having to launch his car to get maacas. i guess this mod isnt as harsh as i imagined
i had ingalls ETD for awhile... took it off because the shock siezed up... i prefer not having it now lol
im definitely going to do with but im going in order of handling, drive train/transmisson than power. i want to maintain engine warranty as long as possible
id probably look at a tranny swap with a type s
Hi all,
is the FN2 flywheel lighter than euro flywheel? compare to ORC clutch kit and Exedy Organic clutch kit, which one you are prefer for euro? Thanks
sorry about the nubness. been wondering for a while now. what does LSD stand for?Quote:
Originally Posted by kitbkk
LSD=limited slip diff.Quote:
Originally Posted by ndeuro_
Damn my clutch and my cars 49 000kms. To too much meat left for me to upgrade to a lightweight package!
it's a good drive with lightweight f/w and clutch.
from aaron's car. Revs so freely.
I noticed you didn't use full throttle in 1st and 2nd gear to redline though. hehehe. Good anyway, since my engine oil was still cool. :pQuote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
does anyone know the reason as to why, when im going low speeds my 2nd gear is a stubborn to shift into ? and also, when im going red line 1st then shift to 2nd it crunches a bit ? makes a loud shift noise.
and one more thing. when i go 1st into second and drop the clutch in 2nd it jolts the car. is this normal ?
yes i am pushing the clutch all the way in then shifting. i have no trouble with the other gears just 2nd.
If you have problem getting into 2nd gear only, then I reckon the 2nd gear synchros are worn out if the other gears are fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by hooyn
Could be because you are abusing your gearbox? You shouldn't drop the clutch in 2nd if the RPM is not at the exact match. Just release it in one smooth motion.
Is your clutch bite point at the bottom or in the middle?
yeh didn't want to incase your car was cold.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
plus it is not my car so didn't want to push it all the way. Get nervous.
Its the euro gearbox, it's like that. i tried before and couldnt shift into 2nd.Quote:
Originally Posted by hooyn
Have you drive for a bit until its warm and it shifts nicely.
But you need to revv match. <-- thats the main factor.
Or stated by aaron the synchros.
its at the middle. now when i think about it. my trips are usually only 10 - 20 minutes usually.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
so what crapdaz said, its not operating at its optimum temperature i believe could be the case ?
i found when i dragged my friends auto euro, i couldn't shift into 2nd until i dropped the revs a bit, when i hit 7k.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hooyn
10-20mins doesn't even let the engine oil warm up to it's full potential.Quote:
Originally Posted by hooyn
Does not give the Kseries engine justice.