My car tend to be slugish during the hot weather, not helping the fact that I have an auto. Does anyone else have the same problem?:confused:
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My car tend to be slugish during the hot weather, not helping the fact that I have an auto. Does anyone else have the same problem?:confused:
do u have a after-market intake?
could it be the hot air from the weather??
Nothing is modified. It's all stock standard. I believe it's the hot air. When the climate is cool and humid or during winter, the car feels responsive.
But there is a definite difference and in no small amount. Especially off the line with the a/c running.
All cars lose power and become less responsive in hot weather. Cold air is more densely populated. A cold air intake kit can help in this regard because you will be feeding the engine cold air outside the hot engine bay.
^^^ does hot weather makes teh car use up more petrol aswell?
I think you'll find you have ya air con more which is why it's uses more fuel in summer.
Of course. It's a doubled effect when hot.
1st, hot air is less dense, so the engine injects less petrol. Less intake charge means a less powerful combustion.
2nd, when it is hot, your A/C compressor is running for a longer proportion of time to keep the cabin cool. So you would lose power there.
My euro always drove like a slug in hot summer's..
tho.. i found that using slightly different fuel helped in the summer.. that's when i switch from Shell Vpower to Caltex Vortex 98. It feels smoother and psychologically it makes me think it's running better :p
yeah.. i think this was covered lightly before a while ago in an old thread.
it seems to be slightly noticeable with sluggishness in hot weather..
its worse when u have a CAI
i have been noticing a loss in power too.. i put it down to the hot weather, at night it gets slightly better but because in sydney these few days its been humid i havent had too much fun.
all good though, double demerits
yeh, mines really bad in hot weather - no aircon either, slow poke slug.
totally agree with aaronng. on both counts,Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
tho.. you'd think a CAI would help improve things just a tad even in bad heat conditions.. well.. perhaps not an SRI..
CAI does help in hot weather.
so does an intercooler with spray :)
lol...
but you need a Turbo for that... :p
Irregardless of Cold Air, Short Ram, No Air... Whatever...
Heat = Lose Power....
thats why you save the good stuff for nights like tonight - cold (12deg) and dry...ehxcellent ...
It is cold and raining! Time to go vteccing
Lol...Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
See you in the twists in the rain then? ;)
I had a service done for 20k in early December and raised this problem of lack of power from takeoff with AC on when hot. I have a manual and you can really feel the cars dip in power (almost pings as well).
At the service they said they reset the computer and downloaded the latest software.
The car drove remakably different following this (much, much better).
However now it appears that overtime it tends back to how it was.
Maybe you can reset the computer and it will fix this sluggishness.
Anyone know how to reset the computer safe and easily.
Is this service dealer talk or is there such a thing as updated maps for the CL9? I was advised that Australian dealers cannot reflash the ECU.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris73
I reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for 10 min. There are no security codes on the stereo so this doesn't pose any difficulty save for setting the clock. Apparently you can disconnect certain fuses for 30 seconds to achieve the same result (do a search and you fill find a thread on this) - I prefer the battery method.
What's the easiest way to disconnect the battery? I haven't done it before.Quote:
Originally Posted by yfin
Just pull off the negative terminal. Wrap it up in dry cloth and wait.Quote:
Originally Posted by sodaz
Cool, that's pretty easy to do. Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
hehe.. i'll have to remember that if i ever need to sabotage someone's car :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Negative terminal pull out waiting time = 10-15 mins.....
hmm what if i pull off the positive one??? :P
the electrons move from the negative to the positive, so maybe the negative is a better choice hehe
Always pull the negative out first before you pull the positive. Put it back in reverse order, positive first and negative next.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZEi20T
i dunno how it makes a difference really.....
Sorry to revive an old thread, but what does resetting the ECU actually achieve?
Quote:
Originally Posted by cupnoodle
It resets the ECU to re-learn again.
What kind of impact would this have in terms of drivability/performance or whatever? Would it negatively impact the ECU if for example it is reset regularly?Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroAccord13
What implications would this have on other electronics within the car?
Any assistance appreciated
would it be a good idea if ur the new owner of a 2nd hand car?
Re-reviving an old thread...Quote:
Originally Posted by ZEi20T
But the reason to take off the negative is that if the tool you are using (spanner) touches the body as you do up or remove the negative it doesnt matter.
If you put on the negative and then as you do the positive you touch the spanner to the car you will blow a chunk out of the car at best, or burn the whole show to the ground, at worst.
So when swapping the battery out-
remove negative
remove positive
remove battery
replace battery
replace positive
replace negative