B18c water pump

Ive got a question.
Is a B18c water pump designed to only work properly with a B18 radiator???
reason i ask is that ive used a stock civic radiator and a alloy aftermarket one and the temp keeps creeping and creeping up to 100+ when driving but if the leave the car idling the temp doesnt move (up or down)
and even with my Integra radiator the temp stayed low 90s high 80s( and that radiator leaks)
the stock eg radiator doesnt leak and the alloy radiator is brand new.
Ive used just dist water and coolant aswell and same results..

My theorie as stupid as it may sound is the water pump moves the liquid too quik throught the smaller radiators and doesnt give it enought time to cool down, and maybe thats why when the car is stnding still if stablelises, and the temp stays lower with the integra radiator because its bigger and it takes longer for the liquid to run throught...

Is my theory correct or is there another explanation.. has any one enqauntered this wierd prob???

you could be suffering cavitation. where the water pump spins too fast to actually push water.

didnt you have a DA9?

nope...
I had a DC2, now a EG with a B18c.

Im stumped i cant work out why the smaller radiator that thicker and new doesnt cool at all...
What can i do get a B16a pump???
will it fit a B18c

no, the b18c should be fine. It flows better than the non-vtec designed b18a pump. Unless the new radiator is creating back pressure or a flow thats avoiding the use of the whole radiator. As in the coolant isnt flowing arround, its just streaming from the inlet straight to the outlet of the radiator, if that makes sense.

its not fine but, the temp creeps up and up specialy on the freeway..
but it doesnt move when u stand still..

i'm all out of ideas

a cars cooling is more so Dependant on the coolant used and thermostat - not the radiator. Check your coolant - is it OEM ? Is it properly flushed / no air bubbles ? Thermostat OEM ? old /

New oem thermostat...
distilled water is used on both radiators..
i squeezed lots of air bubbles out of it as i topped it up..
exacly same process was done for a 3 radiators and the old integra one still keeps it cooler than the new alloy one...
B16a and B18c water pumps and not same i just had a browse on the net..

distilled water AND coolant, right?
Not just straight up water?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by locote

New oem thermostat...
distilled water is used on both radiators..
i squeezed lots of air bubbles out of it as i topped it up..
exacly same process was done for a 3 radiators and the old integra one still keeps it cooler than the new alloy one...
B16a and B18c water pumps and not same i just had a browse on the net..

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distilled water ? You are mixing with proper stuff at the proper ratio ? Best to use premixed from honda ( type 1 or 2 ) IMO.
Squeezing air bubbles out does NOT remove all air trapped inside the system.

Do this ~ properly bleed the system.

Empty your coolant resevoir and fill it to the upper level with fresh coolant .Take off your radiator cap ( cold) and turn on the car , slide the fan to HOT. Let it idle UNTIL the radiator fan comes on 2-3 times and then shut off. This should sufficiently remove all air bubbles from the cooling circuit.
Dont forger to put the cap back on once it cools down abit
check the coolant resevoir the next morning and top it up if needed.

19200-P72-013. B18c water pump number
19200-P30-003. B16a water pump number

the timing belt for b16a is also different it has less teeth (spins less)

HEy ben ill try what u just suggested i hope it works,
or ill be getting a integra radiator and sell this civic on..
But the water pump spinning faster would make a difference to

With the integra radiator i just used water cause it was leaking out every where i went but with the new radiator im using coolant mix.

just water is to rescue you to drive home....water has a boiling point of 100 degrees ~ compared to coolant with a boiling point of around 125-130 degrees.Get proper premixed from honda or other to be safe imo.
If the "cog" of the water pump is the same size on the b18 compared to the b16 pump , they would spin the same. I think the b16 is less teeth because the b18c head is slightly taller ( correct me )

Do the DIY trick on the previous page , and see if that helps.

I will doit tomorow morning before i go to work cheers

wew locote ... still have that radiator problem? since the last cruise :P ...
ahha gd luck dude

btw ben, does CD accord radiator can be change to a smaller size like civic (using fully allum race radiator?) coz the turbo clearance to the radiator is very tight... :p thx

get the radiator flow tested

Quote:

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Originally Posted by locote

19200-P72-013. B18c water pump number
19200-P30-003. B16a water pump number

the timing belt for b16a is also different it has less teeth (spins less)

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by bennjamin

If the "cog" of the water pump is the same size on the b18 compared to the b16 pump , they would spin the same. I think the b16 is less teeth because the b18c head is slightly taller ( correct me )

Do the DIY trick on the previous page , and see if that helps.

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Not sure if the B16a and B18c pumps are the same, but if they have same number of teeth than they will spin at the same speed.... The B18c has a taller DECK compared to the B16a and this is why it needs a bigger timing belt (more teeth)

ive got an aftermarket rad on my eg and run a b18c, no cooling issues. I reckon its ur thermostat, or it could be certain coolant lines that may have build up. How long have you ran plain water for as this could lead to cavitation. i do not believe its your water pump, unless its old or even the radiator.

Another thing, check your heater core. My one busted and one day it led to coolant inside my cabin. Check for any coolant under the heater box.

Check your rad for hairline cracks,
Check all your coolant lines... look out for a white residue which is cavitation
Check your thermostat, throw it in boiling water, it should pop open, you never know you may have been sold a dud thermostat which happens occasionally.
Check your water pump too

hope that helps.

thanks..
I left it idling with heater on for over half hour to get all air bubles out..
even after that time blubles kept coming out, and the temp did not go over 91c.
but once i get on the freeway the car starts heating up.

thermostat works fine. i can see the coolant flowing once it opens..
It could just be the extra heat the turbo creates and the radiator cant cope as well as a full size one

Quote:

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Originally Posted by locote

thanks..
I left it idling with heater on for over half hour to get all air bubles out..
even after that time blubles kept coming out, and the temp did not go over 91c.
but once i get on the freeway the car starts heating up.

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Check radiator/ radiator cap.

i suggest u get a nice thick half sized radiator thats aluminium. My cooling system holds about 6 to 6.5L of coolant. I would think the stock radiators would be a tad small for a turbo setup. Prolly wise to invest in a thermo fan too and mount it o the front of the rad if you dont have room in the normal position and also get a air diversion plate.

stock thermostat opens to late so your raditator cant cool it intime try getting a thermostat that open early gives your radiator more time to cool down and also a thermo switch that switch on at lower temp it helps...alloy koyo radiator is a good idea to more water and thinker..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ACTI0NMAN-1

no, the b18c should be fine. It flows better than the non-vtec designed b18a pump

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Actually the non-vtec pumps "flow" more per revolution than the vtec pumps, not the other way around.

for b18c ... as long as u use a 22 tooth water pump its fine ..
should say 22T somewhere on it..

should try a lower temp thermo switch and lower temp themostat since ur turbo

it was the radiator suking in too much hot air.
it placed full size radiator bak...

take out the thermostat and drive around for comparison sake, if it solves your problem, then try get a lower temp thermo, or just leave it out, since the heat from the turbo will be heating up the radiator fast enough.

i patched up the full size radiator temp stays at high 80s.
but i will take the therm out this weekend as ive got no time during the week

Quote:

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Originally Posted by string

Actually the non-vtec pumps "flow" more per revolution than the vtec pumps, not the other way around.

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oops thats what i meant. the non-vtec can create cavitation. blades spinning to fast to push water. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bennjamin

just water is to rescue you to drive home....water has a boiling point of 100 degrees

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not when under pressure ben... :wave:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by locote

even after that time blubles kept coming out,

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blown headgasket mate? :eek:

Hey mate have you had any progress yet

my car is basically set up the same as yours and is doing the same thing.

If you have fixed could you post it up to help me out please

thanks