Sway Bar / Camber fitting

Found these on the Whiteline site.

They are pretty rough, but will give you a good idea of how to use their kits.

1. Honda Civic/Integra rear swaybar
2. Honda Civic EG-EH. Sway bar mounting bracket kits
3. Honda Integra DC2-4 (excl. Type’R) and Honda Civic EG-EH. Sway bar mounting bracket kits
4. Honda Civic Integra front camber kit
5. Honda/Acura Civic, Integra, CR-V 2001-on. Rear camber adjustment
6. Honda Civic Integra rear camber adjust kit
7. Honda Civic 1996-2000 EJ-EK Camber & Caster Kit

Gives you a good idea on what he kits look like.

i dont get how the camber kit works... possitive camber means top is pulled towards the center of the car doesn't it? or have i got it the wrong way round.

other way round isn't it
positive camber is top pushed out and bottom tucked in, while negative is bottom out and top in (drift stylez)...

why would you want possitive? all the weight goes onto the oposite rear wheel when you exit a corner, surly you'd want as much grip as possible on this wheel as apose to the others (on a percentage scale)

rite-on... :thumbsup:
that's y ppl use negative camber for better handling (use the entire contact patch when the sidewalls flex during cornering)

but u would use positive camber to correct the excessive negative camber that the car would be running when it was lowered

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Originally Posted by alan

that's y ppl use negative camber for better handling (use the entire contact patch when the sidewalls flex during cornering)

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But that's only for the inside wheel.

Best way to give negative camber to BOTH wheels is by running more castor. (at the front wheels i'm talking about)

castor being the toe adjustment, correct?

no toe is different. People dial in more positive castor as it can increase dynamic camber

toe is like angling ur tyres more inwards or outwards when u look from top down isn't it???

castor is kinda like moving the wheels more forward or backward when from the side (kinda like wheelbase length)

:?: ... can't remember
(refer to gran turismo... :D )

Quote:

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Originally Posted by alan

toe is like angling ur tyres more inwards or outwards when u look from top down isn't it???

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That is correct

Quote:

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Originally Posted by alan

castor is kinda like moving the wheels more forward or backward when from the side (kinda like wheelbase length)

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Kind of.

Basically increasing your castor (positive) reffers to changing the axis of rotation (steering) by pushing the lowe part of the axis forward.

McChook did a write up on PA a while back so maybe ask him to post that in the tech section :)

Honda/Acura Civic, Integra, CR-V 2001-on. Rear camber adjustment

Just sharing some thoughts for that kit.

I don't like the bushings for camber adjustment, I rather the VISION upper arm, The maximum you can achieve according to whiteline is +/- .75 of a degree, The vision upper arm is +/- 3.5 of a degree. The VISION upper arm will keep the alignment settings much accurately than the bushing, The bushings will lose it after a few hard drives and is very hard to achieve -.75 max where the upper arm is adjusted by shortening the arm.

Check this website if they have an alternative method of camber adjustment rather than a bushing

Vision - http://www.technicasport.co.jp/eng/kit.htm

yeh i dont like that kit aswell, its easier to get the whole upper arm replcaed like skunk2 ones.. or omni power ones.. they have a 3.5 degrees adjustment, when i slammed my car i was running -3 in the fron, and -2 in the rear.. where it was very good at the track days, it ate the insade of my tures out so fast aye..

I just want to add that those adjustable camber bolts that replace the ones on the forks are shit for street driving. Only recommend them for people who track often and actually get their sussy dialled in specifically.

Mine have come undone twice now and because the bolts freely move your car steers itself on the slightest bump.. VERY noticable and dangerous in the wet... and only the rear one of the two in my right front got undone...