EuroAccord13 and MUGEN88's Latest Modifications...

As part of our order with AaronNg and Adammet04...

We ordered PowerSlot Slotted Rotors front and rear as well as a set of new pads...

Andrew's set came with Hawk Ceremic pads front and rear, I'm using Endless SSS front and Hawk Ceremic rears...

Anyway, Me and Aaron (while he was having an affair with me in Melbourne) did MUGEN88's rotors prior to him flying to Japan for holiday and business, minus his pads because his front set and Comptech braided lines haven't arrived..

Well, tonight I did my rotors and pads with my friend, flushed the S*it out of the brake lines (3 bottles of brake fluid due to the lack of a hoist)..

Did a base run in of the rotors and pads, will perform the rest tomorrow...

PHOTOS...

The Endless pads are blue and the Hawks are darkish brown, the gold bits you see are Wurth anti-seize and not the colour of the pads...

The complete set

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...Brakes/Lot.jpg

Slot profile

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...akes/Front.jpg

Side profile

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...rakes/Side.jpg

Front rotor

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...s/FrontHub.jpg

Front installed

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...tInstalled.jpg

Rear installed

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...rInstalled.jpg

Nice, they the same size as the OEM?

very hott nic la.... now u can com on the cruz :P

could you give us some price info please?

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Originally Posted by BusterSonic12

could you give us some price info please?

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http://www.tsxparts.com/index.php?cPath=21_29

Fingers crossed those Hawk pads fit ok as they are for the TSX.

Nice!
Looking at doing a similar modification soon, interesting to hear thoughts on the differences :)

I'm sure it will provide great stopping power :thumbsup:

on our FF euro.
when u brake is it only the front brakes being engaged?

looks great. soon the rotor should be shiny :D
make sure to run it in properly.

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Originally Posted by BusterSonic12

on our FF euro.
when u brake is it only the front brakes being engaged?

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lol no when you brake it uses front and rear.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by panda[cRx]

lol no when you brake it uses front and rear.

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something like 70/30

oh i see :D thanks for the info

Quote:

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Originally Posted by panda[cRx]

lol no when you brake it uses front and rear.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by destrukshn

something like 70/30

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The Hawk pads lined up nicely with the OEM ones so I don't see fitting as an issue..

As for "if it works", I don't know yet, I'm still running in the rotors and pads, did another run in today, initial bite is still not there yet, going to do it again for a few hundred ks... Need the freeway to do a proper break in...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EuroAccord13

The Hawk pads lined up nicely with the OEM ones so I don't see fitting as an issue...

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Great so my Bendix ultimates will work ok

i want a brake pad upgrade so badly !

the oem pads really don't hold up on the track well... 3 hard brakes and they start shuddering :(

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chris_F

the oem pads really don't hold up on the track well... 3 hard brakes and they start shuddering :(

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Tell me about it! even the EBCs I used to have can't take the punishments... Hopefully this one will work better LOL!

what ebc's did you have?

I was originally planning to get SSS all round but would really like to hear what you think about them on the track.

Shitty pads really detract from the whole experience I never realised just how important they are untill now :P

The basic set from EBC... Green stuff... Never ever buy them again LOL!

Yeah, when the parts run in, I'll let u know how the SSS goes although I'll prolly never be able to tell you much because of the rotors LOL!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chris_F

i want a brake pad upgrade so badly !

the oem pads really don't hold up on the track well... 3 hard brakes and they start shuddering :(

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My stock pads are like tofu. I can press the pedal down 1/2way and it's not biting.... Brake line has no air bubbles and have been flushed. Will change over soon.

Can't beat mine! it gets so hot and fades so much, my handbrake don't work!

BTW, you reckon after I run in the rotors and pads, should I bleed the system again, I've flushed it but yeah.. Should I?

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Originally Posted by aaronng

My stock pads are like tofu. I can press the pedal down 1/2way and it's not biting.... Brake line has no air bubbles and have been flushed. Will change over soon.

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Mine have gone weaker aswell.. i think it's because the pads have glazed over?

Someone suggested today that i take mine off and lightly sand them so they start biting again like they used to.

there was a 1.9 TDI golf (latest model) out there aswell and he said his pads stood up fine..

verdict... oem euro pads = shite

I used to sand my OEM rotors every two weeks just to get that little bit more of bite because mine looks like a freaking mirror LOL!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EuroAccord13

Can't beat mine! it gets so hot and fades so much, my handbrake don't work!

BTW, you reckon after I run in the rotors and pads, should I bleed the system again, I've flushed it but yeah.. Should I?

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If you've flushed it, then no need to bleed.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EuroAccord13

I used to sand my OEM rotors every two weeks just to get that little bit more of bite because mine looks like a freaking mirror LOL!

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:eek::thumbdwn:

I can see why your pumped about these new pads/rotors..

I really cant wait to upgrade mine now

Just went on the freeway to bed in the rotors by doing 100km/h - 80km/h braking after picking up some supper to eat, initial bite is still not there yet, guess I'll have to do a few more runs to get it running...

Hi Nick Nice to see you got your new pads and rotors... should be fun changing and bleeding them..

Btw, try to do this...

brake from 40kms to 20 kms (3 sets)
then 60kms to 40kms... ( 3 sets)
then 80kms to 60kms.. (3 sets)
then 100kms to 80kms... (3 sets)

drive for 5-10 mins slow.. to cool down the brakes..

then do the whole set again..

and then cool down....


To bed in the new pads and rotors for the first time.. around 1000kms to 1500kms to get the most effective out of the new pads and rotors... Have a great time..


PS: i know its a bitch, by hey.. remember i change few sets of calipers, rotors, and pads on my car and they were even harder compound to bed.. hehehe... have fun :)

:thumbsup: info

Quote:

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Originally Posted by STIGT

Hi Nick Nice to see you got your new pads and rotors... should be fun changing and bleeding them..

Btw, try to do this...

brake from 40kms to 20 kms (3 sets)
then 60kms to 40kms... ( 3 sets)
then 80kms to 60kms.. (3 sets)
then 100kms to 80kms... (3 sets)

drive for 5-10 mins slow.. to cool down the brakes..

then do the whole set again..

and then cool down....


To bed in the new pads and rotors for the first time.. around 1000kms to 1500kms to get the most effective out of the new pads and rotors... Have a great time..


PS: i know its a bitch, by hey.. remember i change few sets of calipers, rotors, and pads on my car and they were even harder compound to bed.. hehehe... have fun :)

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Just purchased a front set of DBA 4000 series slotted rotors.

Will install them after insurance repairs (due to minor accident). Can't wait...

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Originally Posted by Chris_F

verdict... oem euro pads = shite

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They're not necessarily shite -- just not suitable for track work.

Many road use parts are completely different to race use parts. It's why many race brake applications aren't suitable for road use -- because they never get to operating temperature and will brake worse than normal pads during ordinary road driving.

I drive my car through the Adelaide hills and I've yet to suffer any brake fade (on roads that have caused fade in other cars).

If I were to track the car though, the brakes would be the first thing I'd upgrade. On the track it's not necessarily who can run the fastest speed, it's often who can consistently maintain their speed for longer before needing to brake...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cranial

Just purchased a front set of DBA 4000 series slotted rotors.

Will install them after insurance repairs (due to minor accident). Can't wait...

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How much did they cost?

PM'd!

Thanks!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cranial

PM'd!

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Why is the price of the rotors a secret? :confused:

Because they are cheap ?? lol

imo
just upgrade the front with some good pads like SSS will be enough
for brake upgrade, i dun think you need to run in.. just sand the pads and discs before you install and it should ready to go. even u not sanding, just normally drive it a while will be ready or else it is what it is

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tobster

They're not necessarily shite -- just not suitable for track work.

Many road use parts are completely different to race use parts. It's why many race brake applications aren't suitable for road use -- because they never get to operating temperature and will brake worse than normal pads during ordinary road driving.

I drive my car through the Adelaide hills and I've yet to suffer any brake fade (on roads that have caused fade in other cars).

If I were to track the car though, the brakes would be the first thing I'd upgrade. On the track it's not necessarily who can run the fastest speed, it's often who can consistently maintain their speed for longer before needing to brake...

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very true

i'll rephrase what i said

oem euro pads for track = SHITE ;)

also i think it apply to your driving style
some people do like to stop in the very last min =)

haha I was trying that yesterday and the first couple of times it worked but the pads faded on the next corner and I nearly spun out

AFAIK, DBA does slotted rotors for the Euros but they don't keep any in stock due to the low volume of production, you have to call in and and order from them before they manufacture it..

Costs $150 per side from memory I think, and another $25 for freight...

Will just changing the rotor to say DBA 4000 series rotor & upgrading the stock pads & maybe lines have much of an effect? :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pumped

Will just changing the rotor to say DBA 4000 series rotor & upgrading the stock pads & maybe lines have much of an effect? :)

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it is useless to change disc on street use
may as well upgrade pads and lines and some good brake fuild

I think for street use, its also useless to change to steel braided hoses, other then the bling factor, unless you drive downhill really fast all the time.

Dot 4 fluid should be good enough, if you use dot 5, probably need to bleed the fluid more often, as it asorb moisture faster or something. Good brake pads is important, same goes for the rubber.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pumped

Will just changing the rotor to say DBA 4000 series rotor & upgrading the stock pads & maybe lines have much of an effect? :)

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Use Honda DOT4 fluid. It's less likely to attack seals when compared to a good racing brake fluid like Motul DOT4 RBF600. Anyway, for street use, Honda's DOT4 will last longer as it less hygroscopic than Motul's RBF600.

The rotor only improves slightly on brake fade. Will you be pushing your car with repeated braking from 140 to 60km/h every 1.5 minutes? If no, then use your stock rotors til they are worn out. Then you can change to DBA4000.

The BEST upgrade for a street car are pads. Cheap and effective.

i thought spoon calipers were the shiznit?

another option would be upgrading to a bigger rotors with a set of anchors to move the brake caliper back a little and a set of good pads
(make sure when u move back the calipers with anchors, it must clear ur wheels)

some popular brake pads u can chose:
hawk
ferodo
rb74
lucus
endless

http://img197.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/u...72home_245.jpg

if you are doing track work, then brake lines will help.. for street wise stock brake lines that should be fine.

if most of the time is for normal and st driving, then i guess a set of good pads should be enough unless your brakes starts to shutter on your brake paddle.

Forgot to add: if you want more feel on the brake paddle then get a cusco brake stopper, it will helps and give you more paddle feel and your brake paddle will not sink in as the brake stopper stops the brake master cylinder from expanding.

Brake lines does not give you more feel unless your brake fuild is boiling which is i find it possibly hard to do it on the street unless you hold your brakes padding when driving all the time or pull your hand brake a bit up when driving.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by yourfather

i thought spoon calipers were the shiznit?

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it is for BLING:p

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tron07

I think for street use, its also useless to change to steel braided hoses, other then the bling factor, unless you drive downhill really fast all the time.

Dot 4 fluid should be good enough, if you use dot 5, probably need to bleed the fluid more often, as it asorb moisture faster or something. Good brake pads is important, same goes for the rubber.

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i think steel brake line do help a bit on brake feel isnt it?

yeah because brake fluid doesn't compress, but the lines might expand.

stainless steel lines don't expand.

Thanks for the advice guys,
Thinking i might upgrade to Hawk Pads
Any links online to websites that sell them which dont have super expensive shipping?
Are they sold locally


Thanks

try www.racebrakes.com.au, look for howard.. he will help u with brake stuff...

One of the most reputatable brakes specialise in Australia.\

Race Brakes Melbourne and Head Office
44-68 Racecourse Road, North Melbourne. VIC. Australia
Ph. (03) 9326-6088 Fax: (03) 9326-3822
E-mail :melbourne@racebrakes.com.au

you can order thru the melb office and they can send to you by courier. The last time i send a pads up NSW using couriersplease.com.au cos me $12-$14 for courier

Another company you can try is www.vsport.com.au and they are in nsw.

speak to Christ and let him know you are refer by James.

I hope this helps.

looks good guys

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TypeG

i think steel brake line do help a bit on brake feel isnt it?

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Only if your stock brake lines are stuffed.

If you are not going to track the car often, braided lines can be overlooked... More importantly, regular bleeding of your brake fluid..

~^~ Aaron's tip on upgrading brake pads FTW!

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Originally Posted by aaronng

Only if your stock brake lines are stuffed.

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i dont think so. i done this before on my other car which did help on pad feel.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TypeG

i dont think so. i done this before on my other car which did help on pad feel.

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Were the lines on the other car over 5 years old?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aaronng

Were the lines on the other car over 5 years old?

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no
off a nearly brand new car :confused:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TypeG

no
off a nearly brand new car :confused:

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Ahh...

What car is that? Must be dodgy rubber!

hm... when you are braking, after the pads locked the brake disc, the exist pressure will make the stock rubber hose expanded and you will lose some brake power there. But when u changed those steel brake line, all the brake power will be going straight from master brake cyc to the brake disc without losing pressue in between.... that's what i hear..

the car is a Jazz btw

Naaa... those little preasure aint going to make much different....

Steel braided hoses are still hoses with steal braiding and it too does expend slightly. Unless you are riding on the brakes all the time, stock lines are good for normal usage... I have seen cars, mostly autos, with the brake light on all the time and those cases, maybe it will help, for all the wrong reason that cause the problem in the first place.

Instead of investing in the steel braided hoses, put your money into good brake pads and good rubber that grip better.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TypeG

hm... when you are braking, after the pads locked the brake disc, the exist pressure will make the stock rubber hose expanded and you will lose some brake power there. But when u changed those steel brake line, all the brake power will be going straight from master brake cyc to the brake disc without losing pressue in between.... that's what i hear..

the car is a Jazz btw

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In most cars, if you press too hard on the brake pedal, and the pads are already at full compression and cannot be pressed down anymore, the excess pressure will swell the lines, if the lines are hot enough to be soft. If the lines are still cold and hard, the overpressure will damage the master cylinder (causing premature leaks into your brake pedal area)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tron07

Naaa... those little preasure aint going to make much different....

Steel braided hoses are still hoses with steal braiding and it too does expend slightly. Unless you are riding on the brakes all the time, stock lines are good for normal usage... I have seen cars, mostly autos, with the brake light on all the time and those cases, maybe it will help, for all the wrong reason that cause the problem in the first place.

Instead of investing in the steel braided hoses, put your money into good brake pads and good rubber that grip better.

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Yup! :thumbsup: When on track, I found that the stock brake pads and fluids failed first before my brake lines.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aaronng

In most cars, if you press too hard on the brake pedal, and the pads are already at full compression and cannot be pressed down anymore, the excess pressure will swell the lines, if the lines are hot enough to be soft. If the lines are still cold and hard, the overpressure will damage the master cylinder (causing premature leaks into your brake pedal area)

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icic... i just heard from a shop when I bought it. well maybe I FEEL that coz i was being told
lol