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Has anyone got any experience in the difference between these two levels of suspension. Theres about 800dollars difference. The n+ are cheaper. But the racing spec they actually have a specific model for crx where n+ ill need to get type r lca's. If anyone knows any big differences then let me know.... I need to choose some suspension soon...
Thanks heaps guys
the difference is fatter pistons , stiffer spring rate on racing spec damper
The N+ are still pretty firm though arent they? Like would they hold up if you were to run some semi slicks and take it to a racecourse? The thinner piston would cause issues?? Im quite liking the idea of going some buddy club. Just need to justify everything to myself before i make any big purchases..Quote:
Originally Posted by EG5
n+ is still a nice suspension . bang for bucks for daily + track use.
i bought the buddy club RS (from jdm yard!) but this is the first coilovers ive ever owned so i cant really compare but quite happy with the spring rates altho i think i would like it better with slightly stiffer springs
At softer damper setting its very comfy on the street
i regret getting N+..period
I can't speak for the N+, but I have the Race Spec and although they're a solid improvement on the Tien SS I previously had, I'm a little disappointed with the high rebound of the shocks. But for the price ($2k landed), I'm not complaining. They feel more like $3k worth of coilover... and I probably won't be satisfied until I have a $10k set...
One thing to keep in mind if you're considering the Race Spec is that your personal comfort isn't the only thing a hard ride will affect. You could easily bend or break or just end up with loose components and constantly out-of-whack alignments every trip you take around the block. The smallest of pot holes and uneven surfaces feel like you've hit a gutter. And it's the car you have to think about, not your youthful bodies hehe
I'd say the chasis of my car is probably in serious need of a rigidity refresher.. with welding etc.. and I'd probably say race spec coilovers aren't worth using unless you reenforce your chasis with extra welding etc There's obviously a reason they are "off road use only".
Always good information posted on here. Yeah i definitely dont want something so stiff they ruin my car. I knew one of the buddy club set ups were 'off road only' but i thought it was the P1's. Yeah im not after something thats not even legal. I guess ill have a better look into the n+ then.
Anyone else had any experience with these?
DXS (another gen II CRX owner on this forum) has the N+ on order from Japan for his SiR. Why don't you PM for his feedback once he receives them.
In regards to "off road use only", I think it's more or less implied in the title "race spec"... but I couldn't read anything on the box or manual as it was in japanese hehe... Aussie roads are crap by international standards too.
Just a suggestion - if you don't plan to do any racing, it could be more worth your while getting springs and shocks. There's a lot more street rides using all kinds of combinations here and you'd have a larger source of information to pinpoint the solution for your needs. Alternatively, I hear the Zeal Function coilovers provide a similar ride feel. Just to give you a point of comparison.
pretty sure the RS is street use and its the P1 is the off road use?
I dont feel anything unstreetable about the RS unless u max it out to hardest on the street
for daily driving with a little bit of track or race feel...the N+ is gd...it just not stiff enough but thats personal taste...and it does give u a bit of body roll..so u mite want to combine it with sway bars and stuff...the shocks don't travel much either...coz the difference between jacked up and on the ground is only about 1 inch differences...meaning u r always on 3 wheels going in and our of driveways...
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e6...R/Photo111.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e6...R/Photo110.jpg
Keep the comments flowing guys. Good to see all the varying comments. Feel free to let me know if you are running a different setup that you find works really well for you. I am by no means decided upon a product yet. Just decided im going to do brakes first anyway as my pads are running low. But straight after i get them done im going to want to do the sussy too....
Race only or street use can be a thin blury line. I don't mind driving around on Race Spec on a daily basis, but there are a number of sacrifices. Three wheels up driveways is definitely true - and it occurs without fail on just about any driveway in existence. I recently raised the rear by an inch just to make the car slightly more practical on the crappy Melbourne roads. Fortunately they are very easy to adjust and I can do so before and after events, as required.
In my exprience the best thing to do is develop an ultimate plan and work backwards. To be honest, I don't think race spec are really designed with the daily driver in mind - as a result, the priorities of a street car are not fully addressed. Race or street... it will always be a compromise until you can settle for one or the other.
As mr amus said, I have some BC's coming to me.
i have BC Junior ITR coilovers coming (hopefully be here in the next couple of days). 10 6 spring rates.. where as EF8 Racing spec is 12 8
In JP there is only Junior and Racing Spec.. so i presume junior = N+
Basically i have heard from a reliable source that BC's are kinda crap, as in the same grade as tien. With notable bouncy dampers (as dylan also mentions) and this is why they make the spring rates high.
I would look into stuff like Zeal Function XS.. i was intially going to get these but then the price rose.. to around 2.1k as opposed to 1.65k for the juniors
2k for Buddy Club's Race Spec?
WHERE?!#%!#
I should have bought these :(
12/8kg seems excellent.
I've driven on N+ and thought they were pretty good for the price. Some feel they are too bouncy. But if you set them up right, they feel fine (but still a little bouncy for some). The only reason I didn't get N+ was because the spring rates are 10/6kg :(
I've ordered some coilovers with 12/6kg springrates. I'll see how they go.
Good to hear everyone's opinions/experiences. Im confused though now. lol. Ive never heard a bad thing about zeal or cusco so i will look into them too. Its just i saw the traders on here have buddy club so id ask ppl's experience of them. I really dont want to come away disappointed. I had a look at the TODA fightex da's on here too and they sound awesome. Full aluminium case and things. Upper end of my range though. But if ill be 100% happy with what i get im happy to spend it where i dont want to spend 2k and come away disappointed with the drive. Anyone else have opinions on any others like the cusco, zeal, toda, hks etc
just grab a entry level spec and start from there, u cant hope to get the best on ur first go. doesnt work like that.
think on ur goals, what u what the suspension for , street/track or just show off stylez. some people think this or that is too soft but they are mostly freaks that are bound to bang up their chassis for street use.
and i dont think u can afford fightex's.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kayot1k
Yeah many good points there but when u say i cant afford fightex - you'd be surprised what ill spend if i know its what im after. If they are the ones i decide i like the best ill buy them. But they arent cheap you have that right! And im not saying i have lots of money or anything im just saying i have enough and that if i get my mind set on the one thing (currently tossing up between like 5sets) then i will most often buy it.
Still reading everyones posts here so if anyone else has something to add then go ahead. I like hearing everyone's opinions..
i have heard bad about cusco too..
hks i dont know
zeal and toda related are good..
as i said before i would go for Zeal Function XS
I am going to do a ITR coilover install into my EF Crx within the week with a rear camber kit too.. might do a DIY as well
crx51, the best thing is to have a ride in mate's cars fitted with the coilovers, then you can really feel out what is suitable for you :) Personal preference and needs colour all of our judgements :P
That'd be awesome if you could do a DIY for that. You bought zeal function xs did you? How much were they?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dxs
Is the EF suspension setup the same as ED9? Because i saw on crxaustralia a guy got front sway bar for ED9 and it wouldnt fit on his EF. All this will fit/wont fit stuff has confused the hell out of me. I reckon ive seen half the suspension posts on this forum and i know no more than before i ever looked...
i wouldnt go as far as personal preference..
Their might be personal preference in what u want your suspension to achieve.
as in: Fastest track time, most confortable, most reliable etc.. but all those sub categorys can be rated..
but anyway:
to answers you questions crx51:
I tried to buy the zeals for EF, but the price went up to like 2.1k
i ended up getting buddy club Juniors (like N+) with 10 6 spring rates for ITR, so therefor i have ITR rear LCA and DC2 front forks. I also have a rear adjustable camber kit (which is the top arm) to fix the rear camber issues that occur with lowering and using ITR lca's.
Now ED is AUDM and EF is JDM. The rear is pretty much the same beside the rear LCA's are a little different. There are also some '88 ED with fork type LCA's.. but anyway.. rear is pretty much the same
Front is a little different, but all works on the same style. There are some mild differences.. but if u use different style suspension like ITR the fork is all u need to change. And say u put in EF8 Zeal XS functions you would just need the LCA and fork from EF.. but u could even do ITR XS function.. but i would go the EF ones.
The front sway bar on EF has different mounts than the ED.. but the mounts go on the front LCA.
www.nengun.com is a good site.. quite slow on postage and such, but good price.. always a chance of getting dicked by customs and ask them if their prices are correct first before ordering..
bla hopefully that made sense
EDIT:
if you keep the front ED lca, then a whiteline front sway will fit.. (their shouldnt be a real reason to change the front lca)
The whitline rear sway should fit on a crx with ED, EF or DC2R lca's.. (ie i have EF with ED rear sway and will be going DC2R, so i will let u know if it doesnt fit, but everyone says it does)
Buddy Club RS: CIVIC EG6 AU $ 1,628.31 Honda Civic EG6, Front 12K/H200, Rear 8K/H200
AWWWWWW >_<
I'd say go Cusco if you wanted comfort. Zero2 by Cusco are pretty damn good. :thumbsup:
Thanks for a good informative post DXS. Really helpful! Thanks to everyone has been posting to aid me in my confusion.
Scott
crx51: you got a White AUDM CRX with a B16a conversion in it? :p
No, why's that? I did have a white audm crx but it was d16a8. Current car is on here, just look at the thread "My CRX - Finally got new wheels!!". Its a red audm crx with 65 original k's. Im second owner. Serviced every 3and a bit k's. Why do you ask mate? Take careQuote:
Originally Posted by nigs
Crx51 just another option for you to consider is going with koni pre-shortened & race valved dampers, with ground control sleeves and ebaich springs to whatever rates you choose. It would cost about 2 grand max to scource it all from the US.
I have been reseaching what coilovers to get since i got my ek a year and a half ago, and have come to the conclusion that no coilovers around that price car compete with their performance on the track (N+, racing spec etc.).
Also i like the fact that they are rebuildable and the same shocks without the race valving, have a lifetime waranty (wont waranty the race valving because they dont waranty racing products), sais alot about the quality of the shock. This combo will last a lifetime if you treat it right, unlike alot of coilovers!
Ive heard that the race valved koni's work fine on the street, with softer springs if thats what your after.
Anyways just thought id give you another option to think about:wave:
Mate you make some good points. Do you know where abouts in america you could source them? See the thing is i dont like the idea of having to confer with a million different american companies and then have to worry about whether the right things have been shipped and when they have been shipped etc. I also dont like the idea of having to stress about whether they will get import taxes and things. If anyone has done it then id like to hear about it. Ive heard good things about ground control/koni/eibach combination. Also what are the race valved koni's? Do they sell them like that or do you need to get them revalved?? Your help is appreciated mate...Quote:
Originally Posted by Muzz
The race valved koni's are basically koni sports, which have been shortened an inch (gives you an extra inch of bump travel when lowering:thumbsup: ) and have been revalved with koni's race valving, allowing you to run spring rates stiffer than 600lbs/in (approximatly 10kg/mm). they work fine on springs less than 10kg/mm as well, incase you are wondering. the range of damping stiffness is very wide. There hard to find, but dont require you to get them revalved or anything, which would be required of the normal koni sports.Quote:
Originally Posted by crx51
Here is the part numbers And some info:
You could get the race shocks here from http://www.autocarparts.com/part/list/242-5/ for $900 US all up, which is a good price considering koni USA list them at $300 US each.Quote:
The front shocks are 25 mm shorter bodies and have approx. 40 mm of additional rebound stop (droop limiter) compared than the similar Sport shock. The rear shocks have a 15 mm shorter body and approximately 35 mm additional rebound stop. They all come with the standard spring perch mounted on circlips so any Koni, Ground Control or proper fitting coil-over sleeve system can be used. The all have the most current SPSS3 racing valving in them. As with any race designed and intended shock, they will not carry the lifetime warranty of a street shock. For Stock class autocrossers, please not that these are not legal max length unless the rebound stop is changed.
Applications and part numbers:
'89-91 CRX & Civic: 8041-1166 RACE front and 8041-1153 RACE rear
'92-95 Civic and all Del Sol: 8041-1152 RACE front and 8041-1153 RACE rear
'96-00 Civic: 8041-1152 RACE front and 8041-1213 RACE rear
'94-01 Integra (exc. Type R): 8041-1152 RACE front and 8041-1153 RACE rear
'88 CRX & Civic (front only): 8041-1166 RACE front
Integra Type R (front only): 8041-1152 RACE front
Integra Type R & '88 CRX owners: rear shock 8041-1164 RACE is in development and will be available hopefully mid-summer.
These parts are here or nearly here and can be ordered through any Koni dealer. The parts are so new that you may need to provide the dealer with the part numbers or they are listed in the new Koni Racing catalog on page 11: http://www.koni-na.com/pdfcata...g.pdf
Coilover sleeves and springs from http://www.ground-control-store.com/...p/II=518/CA=71 for $299US
They don’t give you the option to choose you spring rates ordering them online, but you can call them up and order custom rates.
So $1200 US all up for parts, say $350 US or so for shipping to you, total cost is about $2012 at the current exchange rate. Ive never been taxed or anything ordering parts in from the US, I doubt you’d be, maybe someone else can clear it up for you though as im not 100% sure.
Pros
Choose your custom spring rates
Expected life much much greater than most coilover combos. Will last a lifetime if treated right and rebuilt when required.
Lots of places in Aust. where they can rebuild them (Unlike most Jap Coilovers, of which most arnt rebuildable anyways and are had it after 100,000kms).
Excelent proven performance! The shock dyno of the spss3 valved shocks is very impressive, out performing most/if not all, coilover combos at the $2000 mark.
Easy to order springs if a change in rate is desired along the track.
If one shock does blow for some reason, you can replace the single blown shock, instead of forking out to replace the whole coilover set!
hey Muzz - rep's for that post. That is really informative mate. I added to your rep, i dont know what id does though? lol. Im having a look into the shocks mate. Thanks very much
bc racing damper ftw
Who carry BC coilover?
which state are u in??
there should be BC dealers across australia wide.
Perth and Melb since I travel back and forth quite often
man
JDMyard sell them
Perth - buddy club dealer is
Vision R
11 Bowen St
O'Connor,
Perth W.A
6163
http://www.visionr.com.au
email: sales@visionr.com.au
mb: 040303003131
hey Muzz can you post the shock dyno's?
Ive seen the normal Koni but not the Race Valved version.
which ones goes lower ? lol
Sure, here they are.Quote:
Originally Posted by sifoo
Koni Yellow w/ SPSS3
http://www.rdtmotorsports.com/images.../shockdyno.jpg
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...MXk1NDE%3D.jpg
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...MXk1NDE%3D.jpg
Heres a typical responce from the people who run them, they really are great shocks.
Taken from - http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1075746&page=3Quote:
Well, my input is kind of late, but here it is.
I've had a set of Koni SPSS shocks on my Civic for over a year. They are, quite simply, friggin awesome. The car handles like... well, like... I can't even describe it. It simply does what I want it to do. I have multiple ARRC champs coming up to me after races and saying stuff like "I can't believe how well that car handles, what have you done up under there?"
Everyone who drives it (and that total is up to 4 people, soon to be 5) gets out smiling.
Oh, and after over a year (12 sprint races and 3 enduros) of curb banging, two wheeling, drive it like you hate it goodness there isn't a single solitary leak anywhere. Nothing. Nada.
Heck, I just won the Koni contingency at the ARRC (4 free rebuilds) and don't even want to use it right now because I really dont need it.
Not to mention the customer service. It speaks for itself.
Scott, who's a Koni convert.
They look pretty good... anything on the koni coilovers?
I've had both N+ and currently using Racing Spec.
All i can say is, the N+ is no where good as the Racing Spec.
But the N+ is still awesome.
It's like:
N+ = A+
Racing Spec = A+++++++++++
Buddy club have a fantastic offer for all of you people looking to upgrade your coil overs. Check the buddy club website... its on the front page.Quote:
Originally Posted by nigs
in addition, the Buddy club Racing Spec coilovers have an 'upside down' shock design - which is more durable and efficient, allow me to explain.
The dampening hardware including the main piston are bouncing upwards from the bottom of the casing, rather than downwards from the top of the casing. This means that the spring rate can be made lower, and the dampening force can be increased to compensate. - This makes for a better street ride, and less initial bound - and more control of the rebound motion of the shock absorber.
To put it simply, the Racing Spec dampers are a package that is designed to be long lasting, and still comfortable for daily driving. There is only one main disadvantage of the racing spec design - and that is the cost.
As someone had mentioned before, the P1 damper is not designed to be used for the street. They are Buddy club's flagship coilover package, and are made-to-order in your own custom spring, as well as bound and rebound rates.
Also, keep in mind that Buddy club offer a two year warranty on the body of the shock, and six months on the pillow mount.
This warranty is minimum hassle and full replacement.... it breaks - bring it to us, we investigate to see what went wrong, we replace it.
Again, check the buddyclub main page... we have a special cash back offer on at the moment, which might just suit the situation some of you seem to be in!
I'm in the same boat, and I think I'll go with the N+. Alot of people are saying they are soft, and still have bodyroll and a bit of bounce, but I think combined with thicker swaybars, Cusco front and rear shocks, it'll really stablize my DC2.
Hopefully they won't be too soft and I have to sell them to upgrade to Racing Spec/Flex immediately.
:thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by shebangs
hey buddy you said you found them soft with a alot of bodyroll? But do you think it was because you still had stock sways/struts?Quote:
Originally Posted by Spoon DA9R
RS is crazyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy yyyyyy
i love it
not a lotta body roll..but more than other sus...thats why i said with the right sway u'll do well...and i already have the 40mm front and rear cusco...but then sway will help more with body roll...so yeah...find a gd set of sway it'll be perfect for u since u say u need it 99% for the streets and ur gf will def not complaintQuote:
Originally Posted by shebangs
bc n+ is crap, very stiff and very bumpy and body roll, i would steer clear off them...
I've got Racing Spec dampers on my DC2R. These are awsome for the street on the softest setting. Although when your not in the mood for them, you feel liek driving the car into an ocean, or off a cliff. Be prepared for a few dash lights, and brake lights etc to come on and off, and flicker.
Also you have to consider the wheel weight factor, in combination with Coilovers. I found the RS dampers to be amazing with stock wheels, but with the CE28N's they were a whole lot better!!!
Also people believe the harder a damper the better, and the faster you'll go around a race track. This is definately not true. You have to take in consideration tires, ridgitity etc. I personally would rather use N+ with a set of crappy SEMI SLICKS around a track, rather than RS dampers and very good STREET tires. What i'm getting at is that Coilovers isn't the key to being fast. Yes they will make you faster than stock, but it's all about weight transfer/balence, wheel weights, bracing etc etc.
I also believe that RS dampers are for street use, and P1 dampers are for off road use. N+ dampers are great also... IMO are harder than Tein Flex, and the entire BuddyClub range are more agressive than each Tein product in the same category.
So what do you recommend then for daily driver but a big upgrade from a dc2r?Quote:
Originally Posted by SXWC
i am still deciding between the cusco zero 2 and the BC RSD. I know the cusco's can go real low but how low can the BC RSD go?
BC racing spec damper on setting 0-0 are fine for the street. Firm, no body roll, and nice. But it's all to do with personal preference. Some people prefer their rides to be hardcore, some don't. It's all about what you want your car for. If it's just for the street, then N+ will do it. If you are going to be tracking, then get the RSD. Tein Flex are nice for the street. IMO Tein's are soft, but some will say they aren't. Once again, personal preference.
I have the RSD on 7 and 7, and it pretty good street wise. But then again the S2000 comes stock with quite firm suspension so I was conditioned for it lol. I dont see how the would be much difference with how low the coilovers can go. The RSD have the adjustable perch, you could dump it if you wanted too.
I love the RSD coilovers, takes the car to a new level of handling.
I've got the N+ on the S2K.
The S2K's stock suspension is already pretty good. It's a pretty crashy ride actually.
I decided to try toe N+ over the Racing Spec Damper as the car is primarily a street car. Having said that, of-course I will be tracking it as well.
For an initial test I dumped the car as low as it could go. The car was literally scraping on everything. It's nice to know I can go that low if I want though without compromising shock travel. Remember, this is something the Buddy club suspension can do that the Tein SS's can't do (they let you lower your car, but at the cost of shock travel, thus they are inferior in design).
2nd test was to simply set the N+ to full soft, which I found way too soft, then to stop, and set to full stiff, which I found way too stiff. This suggests that I can get the perfect balance that suits me.
3rd test was to take it to the track. I took the car to Eastern Creek and found the rear quite twitchy on harder settings. I softened up the rear in pitt lane and found the car much more controllable.
After a few weeks in the car I've come up with the perfect settings for street. I can absorb the small bumps well but what's most impressive is how I soak up the massive bumps. The car can take any sort of crap road. It's perfect in my opinion for a car that is daily driven and makes it to the track once a month.
I've had a few people in the car. Perry who just bought an S2K and he commented that it feels like stock (only the car is a LOT lower than stock). And Zi from JDMyard who says it feels so much better than his old S2K's Zeal coilovers. He thought the Zeal's were too soft. Zi also took me on a road which had one very nasty bump in it. It's a road he uses to test whether or not a suspension is good at handling bumps (or not lol). And the car passed with flying colours :)
For those who love a very hard track set-up, sure, go for the Racing Spec Damper. Just remember, on bumpy tracks like Wakefield, stiffer suspension doesn't mean a faster time.
For those who want coilovers for a daily ride, the N+ is awesome. It's not as soft as the Tein SS's (N+ has more aggressive spring rates) but it's a better design, especially if you want to slam your ride and do track days every now and then.
To the guy who says the N+ are crap and are too stiff and have body roll... Without listing your set-up, I can't even begin to problem solve. Sway bars are usually the best mod for getting rid of body roll. Tyres play a factor and ride height is also a massive factor. Please do share more of your set-up, if possible.
Thanks mate. Any comments on people saying N+ has too much bodyroll?Quote:
Originally Posted by justinfox
NP. Again, we're all getting confused here on the body roll issue. It's not the N+ that's giving people body roll. The N+ has much more aggressive spring rates than stock and the dampers are adjustable so that you can adjust the ride to be stiffer than stock so there's no way you would have more body roll with the N+ than stock. There are much more factors out there to cure body roll than just coilovers.
Exactly:thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by justinfox
The thing is alot of people would lower the car at the same time, this causes the roll center to move downwards, away from the center of gravity, this causes a greater torque around the roll centre causing extra bodyroll, due to the greater lever arm (cornering forces acting on the cars center of gravity causes it to roll around the roll centre).
Ie, the stiffer springs will increase the roll stiffness quite alot, but the lower the car (or roll centre to be exact), the greater the lever arm acting on the roll center which increases the bodyroll, and at a point may actually completly offset the extra roll stiffness from the stiffer springs.
-____________________________________-Quote:
Originally Posted by SXWC
KINDLY, dont make sweeping statements unless uve got mountains of evidence to back up ur claim
coz at the moment, ur post is complete bs
Check this out, I really want to hear what Buddyclub will say about this issue.
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=557885
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread...=rsd%27s+broke
Not just once, 2 times already...
Isolated incident. The other 2 incidents had prior accidents. So only 1 case with premature wear. And the car was lowered by 3". Being Macpherson struts on the DC5, the coil's body serves as an integral part of the suspension link, so it undergoes much higher loads than on a car with double wishbones all round.Quote:
Originally Posted by yakuza
Hi guys:wave:
For guys in brisbane theres a place called tsr suspension at slacks creek that do suspension revalving and shock shortening(konis etc). good reputable mob, have used them to recond coilovers before. In the past they revalved some teins and zeals and few others for me. There is also a few other big suspension mobs on the same street.
They can help with your ride height and comfort issues.
heres their contact details
TSR Suspension Unit 1/18 Aranda Street Slacks Creek Qld 4127 Ph (07) 3808 2455 Fax (07) 3209 1083.
im looking to buy N+ as well. this thread is helping out heaps lol. thanks crx51 for posting it. does anyone have N+ on a dc2? if so, how does it rate? thanks again
waiting for mine to arrive :thumbsup: will let you know how they go very soonQuote:
Originally Posted by deezsta87
hey man i just got some on my DC and they are fantastic i reckon. i dont know why people have been complaining about being too bumpy and body roll. i like having a stiff ride and have these on pretty high and must say they are a thumbs up!
N+ or RS? :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by dudeling7
N+ man
N+ for street man no way RS
N + is good enough.
hey guys, im doing my research on coils, and just wanted to clear something up, is the BC N+ spec damper coilovers DAMPER AND height adjustable or just height adjustable only? cause on the JDMyard website it says they are height adjustable only..
BC N+ for ek has damper. Dont know about the rest
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesnic
I prefer the N+ over the Racing Spec.Quote:
Originally Posted by EG5
I can confidently say there are definately better coilover out there for a better price. Price for Tein monoflex and Zeal function Xs from www.perfectrun.com.au - are great.
i've got buddy club racing specs in my daily ek... to be honest, it's a relief to drive stock cars and it gives me a rest from my car. but in terms of handling, it's absolutely great. Even better on smooth surfaces.
Because my car is a daily, i would rather have N+ than the Racing Spec, only purely because it's a daily. If it was a weekend warrior, then racing spec is fine.
a friend of mine has a subaru forester gt with tein super wagon (pretty much the same as super streets) and it is so much more nicer and easier to live with everyday than the super stiff suspensions.
anyone wanna swap racing spec for n+? hehe
has anyone had both the RS and n+?
is there significant difference in the ride?
So even on softest damper, for a daily - it's still too hard?Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris S15
i got my racing spec damper setting half way, i luv it
anyone who've had both the race spec's and n+ care to comment on the difference between them? in particular the ride quality
^^ I had race specs set on the softest setting and it was way to harsh for me , haha
race spec dont lower car as much as n+ unless pillow top plates are removed
Yep. I've got my fronts and my rears set to ZERO(0) and Parramatta Road is still stupidly bumpy. Even on the M4, M5 and M7 you still feel like a slight bobble head.Quote:
Originally Posted by shebangs
N+ i think would be sufficient for daily and 2-3 times a year circuit racing. Racing Spec if you're constantly going circuit racing every month or two.
Wanting a bit more information about the Buddy Club Racing Spec Dampers for a DC5R. Any long term users care to elaborate on their experiences and share settings for Australian roads?
The car is a daily, I personally enjoy the sporty feel of suspension, however, I don't want coilovers that rob my ass of comfort. I intend to start tracking the car, but only when a few things have been changed around to cater for track days.
And for forum nazis out there, yes, this is a big bump from 2008, but what option do I have? If I start a new thread with questions you say "search" but when I bump a thread you "why bump old thread." Sometimes you just can't win hahaha :eek: