Modified Factory EK4 Airbox

Hey all,

As you may know i've been working on my project for Several months.
I've explored many different Cool air induction setups. Including but not limited to,
80mm flexi pipe, 69mm ally piping in "SRI & CAI" form, 80mm pvc pipe, most with K&N XSTREAM pod filter. These trials were all conducted with the "Arse dyno". Never the less, I have finally found a Modification which works "EXTREMELY SMOOTH" as well as "QUIET & POWERFUL"
This Mod which i have designed Works so well, i have decided to share it with the rest of you. "Skeptics Included".

Measure your factory airbox ports, you'll realise that they are infact 75mm in diameter reguardless of shape distortion.
Working in the marine industry, I've found that we use a Heat resistant Rubber Hose for "Exhaust". This Exhaust hose is designed for Hi-temp/High pressure use. I used one 45 degree Elbow & coupled it with a 400mm long straight, directly into the factory airbox. Prior to sealing the airbox and installing the K&N panel filter. I've bypassed the resignator box by using Hi temp-Marine ducting tape. = Direct air-flow. After this was done i used the old Lower re-circ Piping to the bottom of the airbox and cut + smoothed the edges of it right before it bends back up into the engine bay.

Here are some picsof the outside finished product, Enjoy

nice work
hows the top end compare to the pod setup?

Good Work....

however there is a few flaws..


i think u would have lost power.. ;)

the 180degree bend induces velocity...

+ its in the splash guard.. would it suck up heaps of water?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ekhybrid

nice work
hows the top end compare to the pod setup?

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Arse dyno tells me the top, end low, end and mid range, have no loss and even possibly a gain! It's like i have a straight pipe on it with filter in the engine bay. Minus all the noise and rough acceleration provided by straight pipe in engine bay.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BlitZ

Good Work....

however there is a few flaws..


i think u would have lost power.. ;)

the 180degree bend induces velocity...

+ its in the splash guard.. would it suck up heaps of water?

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Have a closer look at the pic m8. A 180 degree bend would induce turbulence. However @ the 180 degree bend, it was cut dead center.
providing a smooth 90 degree port. This intake design has been tested thoroughly in wet weather and has not displayed any signs of moisture throughout any of the internal flow area. I've seen a small amount gathered at the tip of the 90 degree opening on the underside which is in the fenderwell.

Try it!!!

:thumbsup: :D Just wanted to say thanks for the feedback guys!

very nice.... :thumbsup:

better pics would be great. cant see **** all.
wats the difference between just taking off the resonator at the front bar and running a pipe directly into the box ?
thats easy as and is direct air flow into the stock box. ur process is quite complicated for such an easy task.

im sure your back yard experiments have been proven to work on worldwide scale. so good that it beats those developers such as AEM Injen and even some that are custom made by dyno tuners and engine builders. dont mean to be a hater, but just my opinion

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kayot1k

better pics would be great. cant see **** all.
wats the difference between just taking off the resonator at the front bar and running a pipe directly into the box ?

The difference is: "That doesn't bypass the resonator"


thats easy as and is direct air flow into the stock box. ur process is quite complicated for such an easy task.

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:p Have a look at your stock box m8, a real good look..... Then come back to what you've just typed and ask yourself if what you say here is even close to realistic.

Sorry about the pics.....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zco

im sure your back yard experiments have been proven to work on worldwide scale. so good that it beats those developers such as AEM Injen and even some that are custom made by dyno tuners and engine builders. dont mean to be a hater, but just my opinion

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LOL, My experiments have been proven to work "for me" *just as i've explained above*I'm not interested in any trading or sales be it international or otherwise... I'm simply sharing information that i have come across which i believe is true to the best of my knowledge. You obviously don't have any appreciation for innovation or experiments.

Go buy yourself some name brand wheel horsepower son...

Thanks for your opinion...:wave:

the 180 degree creates velocity.. not 90degrees...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BlitZ

the 180 degree creates velocity.. not 90degrees...

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:confused: what are you on about M8?

Man this guy has come up with a innovative design & not getting the respect he deserves! It may has his flaws but then again his no 'Injen engineer' or any of that crap. His designed something & generously shared it with us, so keep up the good work mate!

it was merely a suggestion.. ive been through a million setups on the airbox trying most and if not all these sccops etc etc... then through research i found out the OEM is really really optimum and safe..

The 180degree bend which runs though a resenoator makes good power. Although most of you might think its junk, honda spent millions in getting it right and its dead hard to improve..

the 180 U pipe in the front bumper gives it alot more drivability.. It would be interesting to see dyno runs back to back you your current design to an OEM setup..

Since you are so intrigued in making the airbox work for you.. send me a PM.. I know of a cheap setup which can slightly increase your power on a ek4 and would be a replica of a branded item.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NightKids

Man this guy has come up with a innovative design & not getting the respect he deserves! It may has his flaws but then again his no 'Injen engineer' or any of that crap. His designed something & generously shared it with us, so keep up the good work mate!

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:D :thumbsup: Cheers M8!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BlitZ

it was merely a suggestion.. ive been through a million setups on the airbox trying most and if not all these sccops etc etc... then through research i found out the OEM is really really optimum and safe..

The 180degree bend which runs though a resenoator makes good power. Although most of you might think its junk, honda spent millions in getting it right and its dead hard to improve..

the 180 U pipe in the front bumper gives it alot more drivability.. It would be interesting to see dyno runs back to back you your current design to an OEM setup..

Since you are so intrigued in making the airbox work for you.. send me a PM.. I know of a cheap setup which can slightly increase your power on a ek4 and would be a replica of a branded item.

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Thanks for the suggestion M8,
it's nice to read that you have tried some of your own designs as well.
I would be interested in learning more about your replica intake system. Firstly, could i just ask you to please theorize your hypothesis as to how the 180 degree bend in the factory lower piping creates velocity? I am sincerely interested.

Cheers,

it is good that u are interested... im learning new shit everday too like the merger collector stuff...

I'd see if i can find the article about the 180 degree twist... but have a read around..

if u look on honda-tech.. this is for the Teg resonator box though..

it makes less 2-3hp.. dyno proven