DIY PGMFI Diagnostics - Code 14 EACV
Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!
No part of this DIY is to be reproduced with out acknowledgment of the site and author it came from, ie me and ozhonda.com. Do not rip parts off and claim them as your own.
EACV, "Electronic Air Control Valve" also known as IACV "Idle Air Control Valve". The EACV is a normally closed solenoid valve between the intake manifold and throttle butterfly that is controlled by the ECU to adjust idle speed. By Increasing the EACV duty cycle the EACV opens more and allows more air to enter the inlet manifold, it results in an increase of engine speed.
The EACV is commonly located on the front of intake manifold or on the back of the intake manifold near the TB.
Aim:
Diagnose code 14.
http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/mil/pgmfi-code-14.gif
Required:
Basic Testing
- Digital Multi Meter
- paper clip
Symptoms
Common cause for code 14 is either a dead EACV or open circuit on the EACV sensor circuit to the ECU or even a faulty ECU. The Engine has a tendency to fluctuate when idling with a faulty EACV. Also poor idle compensation when engine load is increased at idle.
Basic Test
- Perform a Visual inspection and make sure the EACV sensor is Connected
EACV Pinout Picture
http://ecu-man.com/diy/pgmfi/eacv/PGMFI-EACV-conn.JPG
wire side of connector
**** Voltage Test ****
Set your multi meter to DC Volts ( 20v scale )
Step 1 ( Reference Voltage test )
Check the EACV for its Reference Voltage from the ECU. Connect the Black Lead from your multi meter to the chassis for a good ground. Back probe* the EACV with the Red lead to Pin 2 of the EACV while the sensor is connected.
KOEO* you must get 12v
If you get 12v proceed to step 2,
if you do not get 12v, repair open or short circuit to ECU from Pin 2 of EACV to the bellow ECU Pin ( also see continuity test bellow )
OBDO = A15
OBDI = A25
OBDIIa = A11
OBDIIb = B1
If you do not get 12v from the ECU pin above, replace the ECU.
STEP 2
Check the EACV Signal. Connect the Black Lead from your multi meter to the chassis for a good ground. Back probe* the EACV with the Red lead to Pin 1 of the EACV while the sensor is connected.
KOER* with normal operating temperature and with no engine load, you should get about 11v to 12v. As you increase engine load by ramping up alternator load. ( turning on rear demister, heater fan blower, AC, head lamps and high beams ) Voltage should be about 6v to 10v.
also check the EACV signal at the ECU end at the following pin bellow
OBDO = A11
OBDI = A9
OBDIIa = A12
OBDIIb = B23
***** Its is always best to check sensor outputs at the sensor side *****
**** Continuity Test ****
Set your multi meter to continuity. This setting is mostly a picture if a sound .))) when you touch the Red and Black leads together on your meter it should beep.
STEP 1
make sure the Ignition is off and unplug the EACV Connector and the ECU Connectors for this test
Continuity test between EACV Pin 1 and ECU, Connect your Red multi meter lead on the EACV Pin 1, Back probe* the Black multi meter lead on the ECU Pin bellow that suits your car.
OBDO = A11
OBDI = A9
OBDIIa = A12
OBDIIb = B23
your multi meter should beep and read short or 000.0ohms. Place the black multi meter lead on a good ground source. You should not get beeping, this is testing for short to ground.
STEP 2
make sure the Ignition is off and unplug the EACV Connector and the ECU Connectors for this test
Continuity test between EACV Pin 2 and ECU, Connect your Red multi meter lead on the EACV Pin 2, Back probe* the Black multi meter lead on the ECU Pin bellow that suits your car.
OBDO = A15
OBDI = A25
OBDIIa = A11
OBDIIb = B1
your multi meter should beep and read short or 000.0ohms. Place the black multi meter lead on a good ground source. You should not get beeping, this is testing for short to ground.
If any of your continuity tests fail between the EACV and ECU, repair the OPEN in the wire between the EACV and ECU that failed.
If any of your continuity tests fail between the EACV and ground, Find the short circuit and repair it. look for squashed wires, or for damage to any part of the PGMFI loom.
reset the ECU and road test the car.
**** Duty Test ****
set your meter to Duty Cycle scale
Check the duty on the EACV Signal. Connect the Black Lead from your multi meter to the chassis for a good ground. Back probe* the EACV with the Red lead to Pin 1 of the EACV while the sensor is connected.
KOER* with normal operating temperature and with no engine load, you should get about 35% duty. As you increase engine load by ramping up alternator load. ( turning on rear demister, heater fan blower, AC, head lamps and high beams ) duty cycle should be about 50% to 60%.
**** Resistance Test **** Set the multi meter to ohms ( 1K scale )
Unplug the EACV sensor, connect your Red multi meter lead to Pin 1 of the EACV. Connect your Black multi meter lead to Pin 2 of the EACV.
the resistance should be between 8 to 15 ohms
* Notes
KOEO = Key On Engine Off
KOER = Key On Engine Running
Back probe the sensor, use a paperclip and push it into the connector then touch/clip your multi meter lead to the paper clip
Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!
