Suntzu's Mod Log

Hi all,:wave:

Ive been on these forums in various active states for 2 years since I bought my new 2005 Milano Red Standard Euro. All I did initially was add the 18x7 Gold Speedy Lite 7 wheels. ( see avatar left)

After much consideration for many months I decided to re-lease the Euro as my 2 year business lease expired this month. So I'm leasing for another 2 years and will outright own the car
BOTTOM LINE: Im 100% free to Mod this Red Beast:thumbsup:

So instead of screwing around with bits and pieces;today (June 07) I ordered and paid for:

SUSPENSION MODS COMPLETE - AND AWESOME !:thumbsup:
Tein SS Coilovers - Installed
Cusco Front Strut Bar - Installed
Whiteline Rear Sway Bar - Installed
Ingalls Camber Kit - Installed

All this came to $2044 delivered. Not bad I say.

I decided that suspension mods are the way to go to get better on road performance. Im often in situations in Canberra where its my lack of handling thats the issue in normal and spirited driving, not power. It seems that my car has gotten a bit soggy in the handling over the 2 years. I really do notice it. It will be fixed with the above mods I should expect.

COSMETIC/AUDIO:

Euro-R Genuine Front grill with matching red surrounds Installed. Love it
AUDIO: www.xcarlink.com.au installed USB version. Its good. Full wheel control of MP3 songs. see my mini review.
M3 Rear Spoiler Mod: Cancelled due dodgy fitting/design


http://img124.imageshack.us/img124/9499/frntqtr2wr2.jpg


Performance mods: UPDATED :wave:
Now the Aussie dollar is 89cents Vs USD !!! :):thumbsup:

I have ordered today( October 07):
Fujita CAI for $320 AUD landed Bargain. REPLACED BY COMPTECH ICEBOX WITH K&N FILTER Fujita = Cop magnet
Topspeed Stainless Steel Header $340 landed. Now received and pending install. ( i know its not toda etc, but its got to be better than stock based on what I read at the other forums in USA)
JTUNE MILD FLASH : Fully Installed and Great! Vtec now 5000rpm more power/tqr $899
COST OF ENGINE MODS: $1559
Magnaflow 300 Cell CAT Installed $400


I'm aiming for the lowest $dollar per kilowatt ratio on these forums. Ill get some Dynos to see how I do!

So there you go. Im basically doing the lot at once. Im pretty excited about it and I welcome any comments or suggestions that you may have.

I will post pics when the gear arrives:

First Pic:

Tein SS and Whiteline Installed: http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/3791/side1xd7.jpg
Thats not me thats my bro in law. Its a bit low at the front but handles extremely well and the ride is like stock. settings 12 and 8 on the F/R shocks.

cheers

russ;)
Canberra

hondata will cost about as much as the intake and headers combined.

your basically doubling the cost by getting tuning.

IMO get the headers and intake. Don't get ebay headers cause they'll probably do more harm then good. Theres a fair few companies out there that make headers that are under 1000 bucks. 700 - 800 should be doable but you'll need to search.

Good luck

Jase

Yes I take your point.

Im am think quality headers and CAI may be a better investment than Hondata as they can be removed and sold if needed ( since hondata will cost to be removed and hence has no resale value)

Im not looking for a lot of extra power, a little mid range torque and a nice engine note under acceleration would be nice! I actually just want 30NM through the rev range if possible.

Ill post some updates and pics as the goods arrive. I know im going to have some fun fitting some of the parts! Im a bit of a noob mechanic :)

Generally though I think ive got the right mods so far in terms of the suspension. This forum and the members here have been invaluable in helping me make the right decision the first time.

cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Suntzu

Yes I take your point.

Im am think quality headers and CAI may be a better investment than Hondata as they can be removed and sold if needed ( since hondata will cost to be removed and hence has no resale value)

Im not looking for a lot of extra power, a little mid range torque and a nice engine note under acceleration would be nice! I actually just want 30NM through the rev range if possible.

Ill post some updates and pics as the goods arrive. I know im going to have some fun fitting some of the parts! Im a bit of a noob mechanic :)

Generally though I think ive got the right mods so far in terms of the suspension. This forum and the members here have been invaluable in helping me make the right decision the first time.

cheers

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That's a good suspension setup.You wont know your car after you get all that stuff fitted,it'll transform it!:thumbsup:

Good call on the mods, you will be the envy of all in this forum

sooo much mods in one go... jealous

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JasonGilholme

hondata will cost about as much as the intake and headers combined.

your basically doubling the cost by getting tuning.

IMO get the headers and intake. Don't get ebay headers cause they'll probably do more harm then good. Theres a fair few companies out there that make headers that are under 1000 bucks. 700 - 800 should be doable but you'll need to search.

Good luck

Jase

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Good advice. IMO leave the Hondata alone and just get a decent set of headers.

It has begun:

In case you guys thought I was full of s**t I present the whitleine RSB:

http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/7...lineqb4.th.jpg

Im expecting the Tein SS, Cusco and Ingalls in about 5-6working days. Euro-r grill in aweek or so.

Have to try and install the RSB myself with a buddy. Should be ok.

Im getting quoted $414 for the Tein installation and alignment? Is that about right pricewise?

Back to headers, the problem for me is that $1200+ headers arent allowed in my mod budget. Its purely an arbitary amount im limiting myself to. Then you go straight down to the elcheapo ebay headers.. not much in the $500-$800 header range at the moment.

more to come

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Suntzu

Back to headers, the problem for me is that $1200+ headers arent allowed in my mod budget. Its purely an arbitary amount im limiting myself to. Then you go straight down to the elcheapo ebay headers.. not much in the $500-$800 header range at the moment.

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My personal feeling if your options are ebay headers or nothing (as the rest are to expensive), stick with the stock factory piping.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Suntzu

It has begun:

Back to headers, the problem for me is that $1200+ headers arent allowed in my mod budget. Its purely an arbitary amount im limiting myself to. Then you go straight down to the elcheapo ebay headers.. not much in the $500-$800 header range at the moment.

more to come

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just wait a while, and see what comptech header provides? since that's the price range your after.

Suntzu welcome to the dark side. ;) Remember, modding is crack.

Those mods will transform your car for sure. I'm sure you'll love it .

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Suntzu

It has begun:

In case you guys thought I was full of s**t I present the whitleine RSB:

http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/7...lineqb4.th.jpg

Im expecting the Tein SS, Cusco and Ingalls in about 5-6working days. Euro-r grill in aweek or so.

Have to try and install the RSB myself with a buddy. Should be ok.

Im getting quoted $414 for the Tein installation and alignment? Is that about right pricewise?

Back to headers, the problem for me is that $1200+ headers arent allowed in my mod budget. Its purely an arbitary amount im limiting myself to. Then you go straight down to the elcheapo ebay headers.. not much in the $500-$800 header range at the moment.

more to come

---

Rear RSB is easy to install(i've done it).$414 seems a bit much.I think approx.$280-300 would be about right.

ok.

M3 Style Lip spolier is in. Looks ok.

Pics soon.

Got confirmation on the ingalls and a few other bits.

Busy week coming up!


Only place left for a suspension install is Quickfit/Jax who may give me a discount if i get tyres at the same time...hmm..i want the best alignment tho no matter the cost. I see it as a safety issues when wife drives teh beast!

Ill sit on the header issue for week or so...

Tein Super Street Coilovers are in and the Cusco Strur bar came 10 mins laters. Looks like quality parts to me esp the tein.


Tein:


http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/8794/suspsmdb6.jpg
Cusco:

http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/6839/strut1yy7.jpg
http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/6...mallpn0.th.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Suntzu

It has begun:

In case you guys thought I was full of s**t I present the whitleine RSB:

http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/7...lineqb4.th.jpg

Im expecting the Tein SS, Cusco and Ingalls in about 5-6working days. Euro-r grill in aweek or so.

Have to try and install the RSB myself with a buddy. Should be ok.

Im getting quoted $414 for the Tein installation and alignment? Is that about right pricewise?

Back to headers, the problem for me is that $1200+ headers arent allowed in my mod budget. Its purely an arbitary amount im limiting myself to. Then you go straight down to the elcheapo ebay headers.. not much in the $500-$800 header range at the moment.

more to come

---

Why dont you consider Xforce headers I think its about $399 in S/S
link: http://www.xforce.com.au/cars/view_car/31

Thats looks very good actually. Is this an australian only product or can I read about it here and other tSX forums.

PS: My CUSCO Strut Bar arrived today its like Xmas here!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Suntzu

Thats looks very good actually. Is this an australian only product or can I read about it here and other tSX forums.

PS: My CUSCO Strut Bar arrived today its like Xmas here!

---

I have a feeling it is the same as the ebay (DC copy) version, well they look pretty close for the similar $$$ and you can get them locally.

Even though it is cheap you will notice a change in driving. However with any upgrade in yr exhaust you will not get any max gain without dyno tune.

Yes it does look very simlar doesnt it. I did a search and cant find much on it.

Im booked for 4 new tyres, the full install of the Tein, RSB and camber kit. I have got the camber kit yet so im hoping it arrives by thursday. Its about $400 for the full install and setup. The alignment is part of the new tyres deal.

Hopefully should go well.

cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Suntzu

Yes it does look very simlar doesnt it. I did a search and cant find much on it.

Im booked for 4 new tyres, the full install of the Tein, RSB and camber kit. I have got the camber kit yet so im hoping it arrives by thursday. Its about $400 for the full install and setup. The alignment is part of the new tyres deal.

Hopefully should go well.

cheers

---

what tyres did you get??

M3 $100 ebay spoiler pre install. Colour is exact:
http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/2...spoilereb8.jpg

Fitting soon:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Suntzu

M3 $100 ebay spoler pre install. Colour is exact:
http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/2...spoilerou0.jpg

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Looks good.Can't wait to pick mine up.:p

Cheers Tony.

Im getting Michelin G-force 225/40/r18. Price not to bad at $270 each fitted. I decided not to pony up for the Sport Maxx/dunlp f1 as I was getting $390 a tyre. Rather spend that on mods like headers etc.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Suntzu

Cheers Tony.

Im getting Michelin G-force 225/40/r18. Price not to bad at $270 each fitted. I decided not to pony up for the Sport Maxx/dunlp f1 as I was getting $390 a tyre. Rather spend that on mods like headers etc.

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Mmm.Michelin G-force for $270.I'd be int.to see what you think of them.Please let us know(also post pics of tread).:)

me = jealous +1.... :p
Congratz man, your gettin all them goods so quick now aye, cant wait to see them installed.:D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mugen88

Why dont you consider Xforce headers I think its about $399 in S/S
link: http://www.xforce.com.au/cars/view_car/31

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I wonder how this header performs compared to others like DC Sports, Comptech, Toda etc...

What can I say but :
http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/4331/sideqtrek9.jpg

Mini Review: Tein Installed and RSB in. No camber or strut bar yet. New Tyres BFG G-Force

Setup:
Ok. I asked to have the car lowered 40mm at front and 35mm rear but I think its a lot lower than that. Its too low at the front. Ill raise it 10mm. It scraps on the back of an ants arse.
Theres 3 degrees of rear camber which is ok for now. Camber kit next week.
I have 0 toe on front and 1mm positive each rear for a total of 2mm positive. It tracks VERY well. Its very stable, way better than stock and doesnt pull. Even with the 3 degrees camber.

Brief Opinion Day one:

Its handles almost completely flat. It has an abundance of front grip, giving a new found confidence through corners at speed. The "doughyness" through roundabouts when pressed has been replaced with a solid connection with the road, giving you the confidence to adjust your position as speed when needed with no unsettling. Its safer than stock I believe because you can react and be connected to a result immediately on the road. Basically it "feels"like you can take corners safely at double the normal speed. i would never attempt that on a public road though. Another point that i didnt expect: the VSA is kicking in MUCH later than before. Yes I have new tyres but the VSA is seemily not interested until the very very severe limit. Before it would engage willy nilly.

The car feels a lot more solid because its not moving around at all.

The ride is excellent when set at the 8/8 shock setting and handles bumps very well. That being said I wouldnt be crashing over large potholes in a hurry.

Overall :
Im very pleased with the result. It has exceeded my high personal expectations. Handling very good, ride excellent. Look = great. Ive got that semi touring car look i was after. No need for a bodykit.

Next:

M3 lip spoiler and front strut install -

PS: Yes some lame b'stard stole my centre cap. Trying to get a new one from speedy is not easy...

Wait till you get the RSB and ft strut brace on,you'll notice that the car feels even more "tighter" whilst cornering or going through twisties.BTW i thought you were getting Michelins,your pic shows BF Goodrichs.which ones are they?

Yeah i thought I was too. But they are BFG G-Force (jax told me BS) . BTW I already have the RSB installed see above. Just the Cusco Strut bar to fit tommorow. The tyres seem fine, but I have had crappy falkens for 2 years! so whos know. Check the sick camber lol. No good. Looks like more than 3 degrees eh? All I can say is try as I might today I could not break traction in any capacity today after these mods...

Pics as requested:
http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/8662/tyresx5.jpg

More to come tommorow as the mods hit.

I think im hitting the record for most mods in a few days....

Got some potentially exciting news re engine mods too..stay tuned..

looks good.

how did that person stole your centre cap? I thought it will be darn hard to take out from the front (unless he/she knocks it off from the inside, which is impossible???)

Lets just say I had the tyres rotated at my local honda dealer with service. And just maybe one of the apprentices has his car out the front with the same wheels....hello! Now noboby knows any thing. Im the knob cause I bought a CRV lux auto 2 weeks later at same dealership and I STILL dont get any love...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Suntzu

Tein Super Street Coilovers are in and the Cusco Strur bar came 10 mins laters. Looks like quality parts to me esp the tein.


Tein:


http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/8794/suspsmdb6.jpg
Cusco:

http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/6839/strut1yy7.jpg
http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/6...mallpn0.th.jpg

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Well done on the mods and continued write up.

Is yr Cusco strut brace painted blue on the main bar as well, just looks different?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JasonGilholme

hondata will cost about as much as the intake and headers combined.

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That isn't correct - I think you are thinking of the K-Pro. The Hondata for the Euro is a reflash which isn't very expensive if you just get the flash without bolt ons.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Suntzu

Im am think quality headers and CAI may be a better investment than Hondata as they can be removed and sold if needed ( since hondata will cost to be removed and hence has no resale value)

---

Good work ont he setup Suntzu! Have you thought about the lower arm bar - it is good if you can avoid damaging it.

RE your point above - I wouldn't think of any of your parts when it comes to resale.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by yfin

Good work ont he setup Suntzu! Have you thought about the lower arm bar - it is good if you can avoid damaging it.

RE your point above - I wouldn't think of any of your parts when it comes to resale.

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Yeah resale value is only worth whats someones prepared to pay for it.

As long as you found it of value then it has been worth it just like the rest of us.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Suntzu

Yeah i thought I was too. But they are BFG G-Force (jax told me BS) . BTW I already have the RSB installed see above. Just the Cusco Strut bar to fit tommorow. The tyres seem fine, but I have had crappy falkens for 2 years! so whos know. Check the sick camber lol. No good. Looks like more than 3 degrees eh? All I can say is try as I might today I could not break traction in any capacity today after these mods...

Pics as requested:
http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/8662/tyresx5.jpg

More to come tommorow as the mods hit.

I think im hitting the record for most mods in a few days....

Got some potentially exciting news re engine mods too..stay tuned..

---

You have the RSB on already.........my bad.:o.I had the same rear camber as yours before i got my camber kit fitted.Get the camber kit fitted ASAP.Once you get that fitted all will be good.:thumbsup:

awesome job suntzu!
im gonna get the tein ss soon aswell with whiteline rsb...

hmmm...is it worth paying more for the tein cs for the extra comfort for street?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by snYpz

awesome job suntzu!
im gonna get the tein ss soon aswell with whiteline rsb...

hmmm...is it worth paying more for the tein cs for the extra comfort for street?

---

i reckon the SS is perfect for street use :thumbsup: A+ u can feel that there are more grips on each of the tires.

My Tein SS street at 8F/8R is 95% of stock ride. But has 100% better handling...
And this is a no-shit assessment after 2 years at stock ride etc...

Ok,

Strut Bar installation was a breeze. Not sure if I can feel the difference because I go so much done at once. Te front end is VERY well tied down and firmed up.

Iv got the tein on 10 front and 8 rear settings, seems to suit. The car handles very very nicely and has impressive stability.

Euro-R grill arriving tommorow. Still no word on the Ingalls camber kit that I need desperatley.

Im still annoyed at the slight gearbox whine I have , not sure if its bad enuff to get a warranty job but ive also developed the 6000rpm high freq rattle in the dash which is a bitch but ill get it sorted out.

I was thinking of flushing the manual transmission fluid but that top filler bolt looks impossible to get to!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Suntzu

but ive also developed the 6000rpm high freq rattle in the dash which is a bitch but ill get it sorted out.

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Turn your heater temperature down if you are going to VTEC - this solves the rattle from the heater core

OK,

I fitted the JDM Type R grill. It was a bit of a pain in the ass getting to the clips and I mangled a few. Yfin saved me $150 by advising me how to use the existing radiator cover, saving me from buying the JDM one.

Heres a shot:

http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/762/front3va0.jpg

More shots to come. The cars looks a lot tougher now lowered and with the grill. Im still in two minds about the M3 lip spoiler option. I kind of like the clean look of the car now.

I have the Ingalls camber kit and its getting fitted on the 6th Aug. Tyres should be ok till then, I'll probably only do 500kms.

The handling is great but I need to look at the ride height again before the camber gets fitted as Im doing another alignment then. I did scrub the underbody of the car under hard cornering on a smooth surface which surprised me. The height has to go up. I need to get access to the rear Tein suspension adjustment also so I can play with it.

For anyone thinking of the suspension mods, you really need to have it set at the desired height then drive it for a few weeks, let it settle , play with the dampers and then set the height again and have it aligned properly. I think this is the only way to get the best result for the individual.

More shots to come.

Still no word on my potential engine mods and tuning and who knows about hondata!

EDIT : Update: This is now my second favorite mod. After the Tien SS and the resulting lower stance, the grill really makes the car look tougher. Its a combination of the lowering, the wheels and the grill that make it look a fair bit different from other euros. I get a fe wlooks cause of its modded-semi-stealth appearance, esp from other euro owners...

hahahah sweet!
i have yet installed mine. Got my grill from ISmotoracing about a month ago...just havent had time to go get it painted and installed! also got my m3 spoiler to install as well

will get my tein ss hopefully at the end of the month and our cars will be kinda similar lol!

looks sweet as Suntzu! keep us posted with more pics and ur ride height!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Suntzu

Yfin saved me $150 by advising me how to use the existing radiator cover, saving me from buying the JDM one.

---

It wasn't so hard to fit the OEM one was it?! No point getting the JDM one.

By the way - looks awesome. Really changes the appearance.

hmmmm, looks sweet.

how much did the grille cost you guys from is?

It was about $350 with the grill itself and the two painted surounds. Plus a bit of shipping. Looks the goods though.

I have installed my camber kit. Its all good. Pics and an update soon.

I am running the ebay header, and aside from the crappy flex pipe(which I had replaced) I am very happy with it.
there is a dyno on acurazine on it and it does make power according to that one, I sadly haven´t got a befor and after dyno on the header to confirm that:(

I have also got the K&N typhoon cai and am very happy with that(nice growly sound at wot)
and the Hondata reflash, that of course is my favorite mod to date:)

210crank hp and 247.5NM (around 30whp@6000rpm gain)

in a couple of weeks I´ll have ep3 CTR 1-5th gear and final drive+flywheel. and cause of our crappy stock gearing I am betting that will become my favorite mod:)

HONDATA!!! is it out?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by h1coupe

I am running the ebay header, and aside from the crappy flex pipe(which I had replaced) I am very happy with it.
there is a dyno on acurazine on it and it does make power according to that one, I sadly haven´t got a befor and after dyno on the header to confirm that:(

I have also got the K&N typhoon cai and am very happy with that(nice growly sound at wot)
and the Hondata reflash, that of course is my favorite mod to date:)

210crank hp and 247.5NM (around 30whp@6000rpm gain)

in a couple of weeks I´ll have ep3 CTR 1-5th gear and final drive+flywheel. and cause of our crappy stock gearing I am betting that will become my favorite mod:)

---

he is in iceland and got the US version

Quote:

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Originally Posted by h1coupe

in a couple of weeks I´ll have ep3 CTR 1-5th gear and final drive+flywheel. and cause of our crappy stock gearing I am betting that will become my favorite mod:)

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Im pretty interested int his CTR ?? 1-5 gear swap. Ive always said the euro's gearing was , well, wrong..

What is a ep3 CTR, how much and what does it do? And what are you doing to final drive? Very interesting.

as you put it, yes the stock euro gearing is horribly wrong:(
of the 6speed boxes we have the shortest 1st and longest 2-6th gears and also the highest final drive? gearing giving us a maximum calculated speed of 195mph?

the gap between 1st and 2nd is so horrible that it is almost impossible to get reasonable performance out of the car, and that is also one of the reasons that I messed up the 2nd gear syncro?

but anyway the ep3 ctr is the 2001-2005 civic type-R.
so we have

stock vs ctr
1st 3.533 vs 3.266
2nd 1.88 vs 2.13
3rd 1.355 vs 1.517
4th 1.028 vs 1.147
5th 0.825 vs 0.921
6th 0.659 keeping that one for highway cruising.

and final drive
4.389 vs 4.764

after maximum speed will change accordingly.(my rev limit is raised to 7600rpm)
stock vs new gearing
1st 36.42mph vs 36.33mph
2nd 68.45mph vs 55.71mph
3rd 95.04mph vs 78.22mph
4th 125.18mph vs 103.45mph
5th 155.98mph vs 128.83mph
6th 195.27 vs 180.05mph

so you see the gearing will be much tighter.
I can´t wait to check it out:)

http://www.fatboyraceworks.com/gears...raph&Compare=1

How expensive is it to do this gear swap? I reckon shortening 2nd and keeping 6th the same would be an awesome mod.

BTW heres an updated shot of my front grill.

http://img124.imageshack.us/img124/5...llsmallfi4.jpg

All my suspension mods are now complete. Whiteline Rear Sway bar, Tein SS, Front tower strut by Cusco and Ingalls camber kit and alignment all done...now bring on the KILLAWATTS!

thats nice heaps nice just need that sports lip and you look exactly like mine except i dont have coilovers, or rims :( LOL

How's the handling?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by h1coupe

after maximum speed will change accordingly.(my rev limit is raised to 7600rpm)
stock vs new gearing
1st 36.42mph vs 36.33mph
2nd 68.45mph vs 55.71mph
3rd 95.04mph vs 78.22mph
4th 125.18mph vs 103.45mph
5th 155.98mph vs 128.83mph
6th 195.27 vs 180.05mph

so you see the gearing will be much tighter.
I can´t wait to check it out:)

http://www.fatboyraceworks.com/gears...raph&Compare=1

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What was your trap speed at your last 1/4 mile? If you exceed 103mph, you will waste time shifting into 5th without much track left, while the stock car will be able to finish it with 4 gears.

I just got 2runs in befor I busted my 2nd gear syncro and both those runs were bad. launching @2000rpm to avoid wheelhop and better run was 15.022@93.54mph, got 94.xxmph the second run. so I´m not close to exceeding the 4th gear:)

[QUOTE=Suntzu;1302918]How expensive is it to do this gear swap? I reckon shortening 2nd and keeping 6th the same would be an awesome mod.

QUOTE]


I just purchased a used ctr gearbox from england and am having the whole internal swapped into my casing, only 6th gear to be replaced.

you can´t shorten only 2nd gear, then you have to change out 1st(they are stuck together on the mainshaft), there is an option to close them better together that is to swap the 1st and 2nd to TSX gearing, TSX has a longer 1st gear making them closer together, and then swapping final drive to 4.764 or 5.062, shortening all gears. I had thought about that, but decided on this.

costs me only the price of the gearbox, it´s beeing fixed under warranty.
cost of the box is something like 1500aud.

Very nice... just get some driving lights in there and you'll be laughing!

Yeah ive been tossing that one up but not sure if i need to keep my right fog hole open for some CAI action!

I got my diving lights from US for $70 inc shipping... so its no big deal to remove them later for CAI. Then again there is a tonne of room down there for that.
Where abouts did you get the grill from?

where can i get these parts for cheap?
-Tein SS Coilovers
-Cusco Front Strut Bar
-Whiteline Rear Sway Bar

I got mine from Max Honda power in the traders section here. The RSB was from whiteline direct.

ebay FTW lol

I've been running the new Tein SS and the RSB and strut bar for a few months now. I've got it set at setting 10 hardness. Thats 6 clicks back from fully clockwise on the front. I haven't changed the rear setting in fact i dont know what it is as I have been able to work out how to get the seat out.


I did get a workshop manual CD from ebay and that is excellent.

Also my alignment setting seem to be very decent. That's zero camber front and zero toe. And 1mm toe IN at the rear with a tiny bit of camber with the ingalls kit. Tracks well, doesn't tram line ( better than stock FTW) and self centres ok. At speed the car is VERY VERY stable. Its amazing actually and inspires a lot of confidence.

You can really get up a pace in traffic and just hold it through roundabouts and so on. Makes the car flow a lot better. Easier on brakes. I haven't found the limit yet but the car WILL OVERSTEER if you turn of VSA and hook in ridiculously hard:eek:. Which is unsafe so I dont do it. :DThe balance is neutral slightly oversteer. Its perfect.

I might soften the front rear shocks a bit for everyday driving though.

I was looking at a package that Mark from HYPERTUNE ( see http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69190 ) contacted me about but that was a few months ago and since he's not returning emails or PM's :thumbdwn: I'm assuming he's bailing on his offer of the HALTECH tune and header/cai package.

Would have been nice for him to have at least contacted me to say he's not doing it anymore, especially after we discussed it at length over the phone. (seemed like a nice guy) Not a very professional way of doing business.

So looks like the basic Hondata Flash with some decent headers and maybe a Injen/K&N/Comptech CAi cant decide which. This will give me a nice boost for under $2k. Can't pony up the $4000+ sight unseen, especially as ill probably get the next euro in less than 2 years.:cool:

Heres a pic :
http://img250.imageshack.us/img250/6413/p1020544mu4.jpg

do u need a new radiator cover for the euroR grill?

I modded ( read: hacked the bastard) to make it fit. Saved $150. You'd be pressed to pick it.

cant take the rear seat out?
are u serious?
just pull it up and unscrew a bolt
that's it

Pull what up exactly?

You access through the seat squabs next to the door.
From memory there is a bolt you can undo to remove them.

However, long term solution is that the top of the shocks where the damper adjustment key fits in is just below the plastic moulding that is behind the seat when you fold it forward. I just drilled a hole about 10mm through the molding so the key fits down through the access hoole into the top of the shock and...click,click..adjust...

So all you have to do to adjust in future is fold the seat down and poke the key through the access hole to adjust, take about 10 sec each side.
I you like I can take a pic in the morning so you can see what I mean.

Russell - i took your advice :p

new title under my name???

My advice? Which bit?

Yes i see you are the new event manager. This is good.

Im still tossing up my mod options for my car and log....to Jtune or not to Jtune, that is the question!

the adivce on being event manager lol

ill organise another meet for a month or two... when its warmer! prob a BBQ or something sweet like that

lol.... I had organise 3 sydney euro meets already

Now the Aussie dollar is 89cents !!! :):thumbsup:

I have ordered today: (of ebay in USA)
Fujita CAI for $320 AUD landed Bargain.
Topspeed Stainless Steel Header $340 landed.
Im planning on the JTUNE mild flash also.

I know its not a toda header etc, but its got to be better than stock based on what I read at the other forums in USA. In fact a lot of people at these forums are reporting somewhere between DC header and Comptech header performance. And for the price,if i dont like it I can always go back to stock.

Ill install the CAI and the Header. Ill DYNO the car and then Ill Jtune flash and Dyno the car.

What you guys think of my evil plan?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Suntzu

Now the Aussie dollar is 89cents !!! :):thumbsup:

I have ordered today: (of ebay in USA)
Fujita CAI for $320 AUD landed Bargain.
Topspeed Stainless Steel Header $340 landed.
Im planning on the JTUNE mild flash also.

I know its not a toda header etc, but its got to be better than stock based on what I read at the other forums in USA. In fact a lot of people at these forums are reporting somewhere between DC header and Comptech header performance. And for the price,if i dont like it I can always go back to stock.

Ill install the CAI and the Header. Ill DYNO the car and then Ill Jtune flash and Dyno the car.

What you guys think of my evil plan?

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Should be a sweet combo. For the topspeed header, you might want to replace the flex pipe section so it doesn't crack and hiss before you install it. Better than putting it on and taking it off again.

Good luck!

Topspeed Stainless Steel Header arrived.

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/9481/toppl7.jpg

It looks ok. It very solid, its got good TIG welds. The design looks decent for what I paid $340 AUD landed.
If I get 6kw out of it an 10nm I'll be happy.
The runners have been smoothed out. The intake area looks smooth and clean.

Im assuming by the way each of the 4 pipes combine together that this is due to the cyclinder firing order. 1and 4 2 and 3. Im guessing this is to keep the extractors filled evenly and consistently. I wonder if the stock header does this?

Im tossing up if I should dyno it stock then fit headers and intake,then Dyno 2 and then Mild REFLASH ( ordered today) and dyno 3 but it might get expensive. Not sure what a dyno cost in Canberra.

Ill report in when fitted.

^ doesn't look too bad.
in sydney, a dyno run cost about $50. if you doing more than once, mayb u can talk to the garage and organise a cheaper dyno if u going back to them for more.

You should change the flex pipe now before it cracks as it will cost you more time and money when you have to remove and refit it again later.

Also check that the O2 sensor hole is straight when the header is sitting upright, a few of these headers have been off and have had to be rewelded correctly.

Good luck and and have fun.

Ive had the Topspeed SS Headers on my car for quite a while now, didnt change the flex pipe.
Ive had no issues with them, felt a bit of a top end gain when i put them on.
At first i wasn't a fan of the hissing noise but now i dont even notice it :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Suntzu

Im assuming by the way each of the 4 pipes combine together that this is due to the cyclinder firing order. 1and 4 2 and 3. Im guessing this is to keep the extractors filled evenly and consistently. I wonder if the stock header does this?

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stock headers just go 4-1.... they all just kinda mince into a single pipe right up the top...

i ordered my TODA headers like 4-5 weeks ago... paid for them 2 weeks ago... im still waiting for a reply from them....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EUR003act

stock headers just go 4-1.... they all just kinda mince into a single pipe right up the top...

i ordered my TODA headers like 4-5 weeks ago... paid for them 2 weeks ago... im still waiting for a reply from them....

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The stock headers are actually 4-2-1. There a very small 2 section in the middle with a partition.

Why don't you just give Adrian from Toda a call?