92 integra CEL light on (possible fuel issue?)

Hi guys,

Lately my 92 LS has been acting up a bit. Sometimes the car will struggle to start for no apparent reason, even after being driven throughout the day. Then today my girlfriend was driving it and it just stopped dead. It then started again fine and went as normal. I am seeing the CEL light come on every couple of times I drive it now. A while back my mother was driving the car and it wouldn't start for her. She rang the RACV and the bloke from there said the fuel pump was not working at all. The car then went normally after a few tries. Do you think the fuel pump is stuffed which is causing the lack of starting on occasions and the CEL to come on? Any help would be great.

Sounds more like a main relay issue,try resoldering it or replacing it.

Do an ecu code check to see what was causing the light to come on.

as above, check the ecu for codes. that way you will know where to start

main fuel relay issue

if you give it a bit of a shake sometimes it will start again :P

Thanks guys i will try the DIY ecu code check as soon as i get some spare time. Seems strange that they light comes on and the car still drives as normal though, only once has car died and a couple of times struggled to start. I will follow the DIY ecu check i saw on another post and see what I come up with.

Okay may sound stupid here but... it says to reset the ECU after doing this test but I cant find anywhere how to reset the thing. Also I am assuming the ECU is near passengers feet as in the DIY i read, even though that one was for a civic.

only reset the ecu after you have got the codes from it.

pull the 7.5A backup fues in the engine bay fuesbox

Hey ECU-MAN bit of a problem. I looked in the fusebox in the corner of the engine bay and there was no 7.5A fuse in there. Also there was no labels for the fuses in there

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by nickbell

Hey ECU-MAN bit of a problem. I looked in the fusebox in the corner of the engine bay and there was no 7.5A fuse in there. Also there was no labels for the fuses in there

---

Its prob similar to my crx fuse box & it will be the fuse in the drivers side,rear corner of the fuse box (mines a 10A,yours prob too).The fuse closest to the drivers side bonnet hinge in other words.

Try pulling that one out(with ign key turned off) for 10 secs & see if it clears the code.

Okay in my engine bay fuse box there is five of the standard size fuses in a row at the cabin end. From drivers side across they are 15,20,20,20,10. So the number 10 is furthest away from the drivers side of the car. Which do you think is the backup fuse that I should pull... (If I can get the stupid plastic cover off near the passengers feet where I am assuming the ECU is hiding)

pull off the the ones on the outer ends to reset the ECU i.e 1 and 5

Okay thanks I will try that out probably tomorrow if I can find the ECU to get the codes off. From what I understand its either behind plastic panel at the bottom left of passengers feet or under the carpet near passengers feet. Hopefully i can get a code off it of some use!

Also should ignition be on or off when fuse removed to reset ECU

Went to do the ECU check just before and guess what.... cant find the bloody thing. Looked under the carpet and under metal foot plate near passengers feet. There is a big flat metal box with heaps of cords running out of it but looks nothing like any of the ECU articles I have seen on here. Its not behind glovebox cos I took it out and had a look behind there only a blower resistor.

There is a small green plastic box under the steering wheel near the fuel relay but it only has one plug running into it. Any help on where this thing is much appreciated.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by nickbell

There is a big flat metal box with heaps of cords running out of it but looks nothing like any of the ECU articles I have seen on here.

---

Thats it.. unbold the big metal plate and its underthere

Yeh i unbolted the big metal plate and removed it. Do i then have to unscrew the cover off the flate metal box to get to it?

im a bit confused on why its so difficult ?? once you remove the metal plate the ECU should just come out..

although.. remind me why you are trying to remove the ECU ???

you dont need to do that AT ALL if checking for codes.. take a pic of your ECU and we'll go from there.. so we can tell if its OBD0 or OBD1

check this

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=68388

Man where are you?

If you're close by I might as well just end your and our suffering and get the codes out for you :P

I know I am sounding a bit stupid about the whole thing. I was looking off this example as to how to get the codes:

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8218

So I have been trying to find a green box like the one shown as I assumed all hondas are the same but FR33K is telling me now its the big flat metal box under the metal foot rest under passenger side carpet. Sorry for the confusion I am causing you all. All I am trying to do is find out where to access the two pin connector to put my paperclip in. I will look under that metal plate again in the morning

Where the **** do you live la~?

Bendigo

so it seems you have an OBD1 LS if there is no red flashing LED on the ECU..

not 100% sure on this but i think the 2 pin connector is actually under your dash/behind your glovebox..

can someone confirm??

Well under my glovebox I have found two connectors. A three pin and a two pin which look like the ones in the ECU DIY articles. I was unsure as to whether or not this would be it as they are just loose under there they are not sitting in a box or holder or anything.

yeh that seems right.. should be the 2 pin one

Well i put the paperclip in the two pin connector as shown in the DIY. I turn the ignition to on, the CEL light comes on for a second then goes out. It doesn't flash any codes for me to read. Why are the codes not coming up?

sure you got the corect connector.

if all is OK the engine light should stay on.

Then I guess it wasn't the right connector. Only two pin connector i could find anywhere near passenger footwell/glovebox area. I will have another look today.

Okay i have successfully done the ECU check and came up with two codes.
They were number 8 and number 9, which according to the DIY is:

8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
9 CYP - cylinder sensor

What would these mean?

It means u should check the wiring between the dizzy & ecu to make sure that there are no breaks,shorts to ground or any other wiring and that the plugs are all coupled together properly.

If that all checks out properly then u will have to get the dizzy base rebuilt with new sensors or get a complete new dizzy base.

And what will be approximate costs invloved with replacing the dizzy base

200 ish 2nd hand

is it noisy ???

It doesn't seem noisy. When the CEL is on the car drives as normal without making any excess noise. The car has been struggling to start sometimes though, it is normally an instant turnover but it is taking a few 'cranks' to get started now. Would this be related?

Any ideas guys?

test the TDC and CYP

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...61#post1188961

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...26#post1191226

Okay so now the problem is worse. Got in the car today to try and move it into carport to take a look at it...and it wont go. Just keeps turning over with no starting when it was fine yesterday. Started for one second first go then just died instantly. What do you think is the major cause of this. The distributor and leads on the car are only a few years old and still look as new, hope they dont need replacing.