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Hey Guys,
Just bought a New Honda Accord Euro.
I've realised that i get some sort of vibration from the acclerator, but its not constant. Only happen when the car is at hault, and as i acclerate the vibration occurs.
Also when i turn on the A/C i could feel vibration which is very noticable.
Could someone please tell me if this is only for my car, or others have the same issue, and what needs to be done to re-solve the issue. Thanks
wrong section, bring back to the DEALERSHIP which you bought the NEW car and get them to correct the problem, no use coming here if you've bought a brand spanking new car with 3 years warranty.
oh and if you do follow my advice you'll probably be confronted with the following statement from a technician: Test driven no fault found haha life's tough -> just hassle the SA about it.
I already went to the Dealer....and they couldnt find any fault with the car.
Thats the reason i have used OzHonda to see if anyone has had a similar problem like this, so i know i'm not the only one with this unusual problem.
I'm pretty sure that there is a way to fix it, but dont know how.
Need help, NOT ADVISE!
But it's a brand new car. Don't be a pushover. You just spent the money with them. Also, for warranty reasons you must take the car to them. I'd kick and scream until it was fixed. You paid good money for it. Get good service. You don't have to accept their word for it. There are over 100 Honda dealers in the country. Take it to another one. Despite what some sales people say, you can take your car to any dealer without risk of losing warranty.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aravinth
Where are you located? That would make things easier.
Moved.
No, i don't have that problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aravinth
Yes there is something wrong - this is not normal.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aravinth
Moving to the Accord Euro section.
You can use synthetic oils. You can use 5w-30 or 0w-30. It is the 2nd number that has to be thick enough. So make sure the minimum is "30" and the maximum is "40" (unless you are burning oil)
BTW, shell helix plus is a 15w-50 if I recall correctly. That is a NO-NO for the Euro. Magnatec is 10w-40, which is ok. What about the Mobil1 extended performance? Is that the silver bottled 5w-50 or the gold bottled 10w-30?
Yeah I got little vibration on accelerator occassionally when the car starts moving slowly from complete stop. It is very noticeable when the aircon is on...but that's just on occassion.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aravinth
Next time when you feel that vibration again, check to see if your radiation or aircon fan is on....
As Aaronng says 5W30 or 5W40 either full or semi synthetic.Personally i use full synthetic so my car can go the full 10k or 6 mths without risk of the oil breaking down.
I'm in Sydney at the moment.
Got my car from Rick Damelian, so yeh.
I was thinking of getting the Motul 8100 10w-40 i think it was. Is that any good.
They drove the car but couldnt find any fault with it, i was with them in the car, but they couldnt feel any vibration. It happens now and then, thats the problem.. If it happened as frequently it would be easy to pin point.
Just stop the car and turn on the A/C since you say that is when it happens.
Depending on how much vibration you're talking about, I think what you're describing is normal. I can notice a mild vibration through the accelerator when the aircon is on, and as the various fans kick in and out.
I did that too...i think that guy who was test driving the car...was an idiot...
he didnt know anything, or i think she was acting...i'll probably go to another dealer to get this checked up.
i dont even trust honda dealers with the servicing. They say they have done all this and checked all that, but you have no proof that they did all that. Its just all on paper....
Well nevermind, well going back to the Oils, is Motul 8100 series good or do i stick with Mobil 1 Performance
Hey Tobster,
How about when your car is on hault, and then as your accelerate can you will any vibration. I dont have the A/C on this time, but it still vibrates, and its not a massive vibration, but a slight vibration, but its annoying!
It happens when i stop the car and then as i acclerate it starts
Firstly, do you drive an auto? (I have a manual)
The other thing you might be feeling (from what you describe) is the lack of low down torque combined with what I think is some resonance around the 1800-2000 rpm range -- the engine seems to have a little rough coughing moment. A few more revs when moving off generally eliminates this.
Yeh i do have an auto...
so your saying it vibrates around the 1800 - 2000 rpm mark. Properly does, havent noticed it.
What do you mean by few more revs...are you saying that i need to rev the acclerator hard for a while to solve this issue
I have the same problem. Can't pick when it happens though. I've got a 03 Euro. Took it to Hanny's Performance and they couldn't find anything either.
If you want it fixed I would strongly suggest you take this up with Honda Australia. One of my mates had an issue with his Integra for a different issue and the dealership was being very difficult so he bypassed them and contacted Honda Australia 1800 804 954 and complained to them. All was sorted after that.
My 2004 Auto has a vibration that can be felt when stopped and the a/c compressor cuts-in. Local dealer swapped all sorts of parts, including the power steering power (on same pulley as a/c) but no cure. I wrote letter to Honda CEO. Honda honcho from Brisbane came, took me for a drive in my car and said, there there now dear Euro owner, it's a sporty car so you should expect some vibrations. He acknowledged that it was a problem but that Honda was going to do absolutely nothing about it. I felt a glow about me when I was reassured in this way but it wore of after I got control of my car back again. The local dealer bent over backwards to fix the problem to no avail. Honda wasn't interested. Probably because I live so far away from East coast of Australia where all the first class Australian Citizens live.
i drive an auto euro. i get the problem with the A/C all the time. I think that's normal, just the a/c drawing power for the startup.
i've also had the vibrating a few times with the standing start. I asked my dad and he said i was imagining things.....hahahaha. no idea what that is but.
I get a short vibration when I turn my air con on. Lasts for 1-2seconds. It might occur other times too. It's when the fans turn on from what I can gather. To me it's normal as the vibration isn't that bad. If it was constant then I'd worry.
Well is there a solution to this problem.
Cause it seems for a fact that when the A/C is on we get some kind of vibration.
But not many people have got the vibration with the car is at hault and then moving. Like Starting & Stopping.
I'm still surprised that Honda hasnt heard about this problem before, or i dont know if they are pretending to not know that a problem like this exists.
I'm just upset to see such a good car like this has an annoying thing such as vibration.
Do any of you guys suggest anything that can be done.
I've offically made my COMPLAINT to HONDA AUSTRALIA, so waiting for some response back.
Another thing i wanted to ask you guys, is that the HID's that are standard on the Honda Lux isnt that BLUE. Just wanting to know can i change to a more blue looking one without affecting the warranty of the car. And if yes, which is the best looking BLUE HID's there in the market to purchase.
You generally get vibration in ANY car when the aircon kicks in...
I get that vibration through the accelrator when the a/c starts up.
Never at any other time.
It doesn't bother me at all to be honest with you, everytime the a/c spins i feel it, but.. It's like a foot massage. :)
Just thinking... If you look near the firewall under the engine bay, up towards the drivers side front windscreen. You will see two silver pipes with a small black cable running to the passenger side. I think from where the cable is connected to on the black plastic clip too the two silver pipes (pretty sure there a/c) maybe that's how the vibration runs through to the accelrator pedal. (This is a total guess!)
I never got this sort of vibration in my WRX; I never got it in my 2001 Civic 5D hatch; and I don't experience it in my wife's Jazz VTi. It's a sign of unrefinement. The vibration in my car can sometimes get so bad that it sounds like a clattering tractor. I even wrote to the CEO of Honda Australia sayng just that. As I mentioned before, their reaction was to pat me on the head, reassure me that I would live a more peaceful life if I accepted it and then say they weren't going to do anything about it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tobster
To some extent, I have stopped worrying about it and my life has been more peaceful since. Afterall, the car will eventually go to another home and I'll get something faster.
Aravinth, when your car is stopped and you experience the vibration, is your transmission in D or N/P?
My Transmisson is on D....
What shits me the most is that Honda knows about this issue and arent doing anything to fix it....
How long does it take, before some one gets back to you, once a complaint is made to Honda Australia. Its been more than a week now, and havent received a phone call back.
Im thinking it also what oil they use for the car, that makes the vibration to occur, and the kind of fuel we use for the car.
Once i started using BP Ulimate, can see a difference, but the vibration is still there, but not as bad as before. I was using Shell V - Power, before that, and didnt make any difference.
I think once i get my car serviced again, not with Honda, but with Ultra Tune who are better, and cheaper, i'm thinking this issue would be resolved.
In this case, it happens to almost ALL automatic transmission cars that don't disengage when fully stopped. Only cars like the Holden Astra and Mercs won't have the vibration.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aravinth
i have others cars too man..
I have a toyota, bmw, and these cars dont vibrate...so i dont think its normally for a car to vibrate. Maybe a bit, but not like this.
The Toyota Corolla and Yaris sedan that I drove vibrated when I stopped and it was in D.
It's because your gear is engaged, so the ATF in the torque convertor is trying to slip because you are holding your brakes. Of course, the input of the torque convertor rotates because your engine is at 700rpm while the output side is stopped because you are holding your brakes. Since the ATF fluid is working as it should, your engine RPM is being pulled down to maybe 600.
But does it vibrate so much that it gets so annoying to press the acclerator.
Well ill be changing the oils soon.
Just advise i need to watch out when i do for servicing...
In the 10,000km service what do i need to watch out for. LIke i know the oil needs to be changed and so does the oil filter. What else do they do at this service. Cause they charge you at a rate of $270.00, so just wondering.
And i'm going to be using a Fully Synethic Oil, like Mobil 1 or Motul. Which one should i go for,and what series
Use either 0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40 or 10w-40 oils. Nothing else.
Have you asked your dealer to change the ATF?
Na i didnt ask him about the AFT...
AFT (Automatic Fluid Tramission)...is that what it stands for.
Yeh but which one is better Mobil or Motul....
Close, ATF = automatic transmission fluid.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aravinth
Between Mobil and Motul, I'd choose Motul. The only Mobil1 that you can use is the one that comes in the gold bottle which costs about $80. The Motul 8100 Xcess 5w-40 is more than good enough for the Euro (and most hondas), and only costs $65.
which is better the 5W or 10W
And what is this 30 and 40 after that.
What i mean is 5W-30, 10W-30, 5W-40, 10W-40.
The dealer said that 5W is not thick enough, and it has to be 10W.
The first number is the SAE-equivalent viscosity at -18ºC. The 2nd number is the SAE equivalent viscosity at 100ºC. The "W" means that it flows in winter conditions.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aravinth
Since we don't experience -18ºC weather here unlike Canada, the difference between 10w-30 and 5w-30 is very small. In your instruction manual, there is a viscosity chart of oils that you can use and at which temperature to use them.
For our weather, you can use 0w, 5w or 10w.The 2nd number is has more relevance since that is the viscosity at operating temperature. Go for either 30 or 40. Both are safe.
Thanks Dude!
Well isnt it better if i got for the one that ends with 40 at the end. Cause if this is the temperature reading, we do have temperature that hit more that 30 at times. So wouldnt it be safer to go for something with 40 to reduce the risk.
I'm thinking something with 10W - 40, would be ideal for the car. Would i be right to say that. No harm done.
How about fueel economy and accleration speeds.
No, it is not the temperature reading. 40 means the oil is equivalent to an SAE40 oil tested at 100ºC. The temperature is 100ºC. That is also the temperature of your engine oil when the engine is fully warmed up. You can go for 30 or 40. Both are alright. I've used 5w-30, 10w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40 and 10w-40, all of them were safe. There is more risk in you not checking your oil level and having it below the minimum mark than the engine has risk from 30 oil being too thin (the engine is designed to take down to 0w-20 oil anyway).Quote:
Originally Posted by Aravinth
Sorry with all these questions that i'm asking you. Thanks for all the advise though.
How do you check the oil. Is there anyway you could check it, without popping up the bonnet. And what temp must it be at, and when should you be worried, like i mean what temperature is not good.
When i look through my dash i could see that the oil is just below the middle mark. Is that good or bad.
And also with the other oils i was asking you. By using Motul 10W-40, do i get better fuel economy and greater accleration.
Let your engine sit for 3 minutes or on a cold engine. Make sure the road level is flat. Pop up the bonnet and pull the dipstick out. Clean it with a clean piece of tissue paper or rag, then put the stick back in fully and pull out again. Read the level then.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aravinth
There is no indicator for oil on your dash. What you are looking at is the coolant temperature level. Please go read the manual, especially under the maintenance section.
It doesn't matter what brand of oil you use. The viscosity makes more difference. 0w-30, 5w-30 and 10w-30 will all give better fuel economy and acceleration than a 0w-40, 5w-40 and 10w-40 oil. The gain is very small and not really noticeable unless you had bad oil before.