Engine Earthing Kits

Hey,
i read alot about engine earthing kits, found one that claims up to 3kw gain at the wheels, $260... anyway, they look ugly as hell, and are a major rip off.

I decided to make my own custom kit. I don't believe I'll get much if any power gain, but im expecting smoother idling, better accelaration under load, and better sound quality from sound system. First i decided to measure the idling voltage on the battery (using a very accurate multimeter!), this averaged at 14.24volts. then i checked the voltage on the engine block, reading an average of 14.21volts. so a slight drop in voltage there, which isnt suprising considering theres only one 4G cable for the entire electrical system screwed into 1mm steel.

I then made a short 2G cable, that runs directly from the negative terminal and bolts onto the engine block, from there a ran a 8G cable directly up to the valve seat cover. Started the engine up again and tested the voltage. Suprisingly, there was a fairly big difference. The battery voltage was now 14.43volts and the voltage accross the engine was exactly the same! no loss at all, thats what i wanted. but the fact the voltage now increased shows the alternater must be running better off a more efficient engine. i have doubts to whether theres going to be any power difference, but for a $15 upgrade, you cant go wrong! who knows, it might save me some petrol money :D

is this what your talking about like the buddyclub condenser/ pivot raizin volt stabilizer??

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Originally Posted by BusterSonic12

is this what your talking about like the buddyclub condenser/ pivot raizin volt stabilizer??

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Yeah i think so.

don't mean to hijack this thread, but does anyone have a diagram or a picture as to where the stock ground cables are on a euro lux?

as i would like to upgrade the stock ground cables to a thicker 4G cable

so if anyone would help me out it would be great

thanks.

Just look at your battery, it goes to the chasis.

It's not as effective on new cars...

Better for older cars...

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Originally Posted by EuroAccord13

It's not as effective on new cars...

Better for older cars...

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Mmm,i've heard that.

voltage stabilizer kits generally have a massive capacitor that wires up in parallel to the battery. usually used for car audio installs to stop headlights dimming when the bass beats...

^^ And by massive, it's like the size of a 1.25L coke bottle! Not the puny Pivot Raizin and Buddyclub condenser stuff.

mmmmm 2farad cap.... so sexy!:p

Bigger farad doesnt really help, better get those with Low ESR, fast charge and discharge rate...

All 1/2 farad caps for car audio will be low esr electrolytic... theres no point in having a low esr cap if it can't even hold more (discharge) than a standard car battery... ie: typical car battery maximum discharge rate = 100-200 amps... 2 farad cap = 100 - 200 amps... but note the battery voltage under such loads will drop dramatically (from 14.4v to 11v) where as the caps voltage will stay the same!

A cap is not to replace the batt, just to supplement it. If you want high power can get those like Batcaps or chain up a few caps.

All caps have low ESR rate, but the rate of the esr is still different. It depends on what is your objective, if its for audio, SQ or SPL you will probably be looking at different type and need to pick it more carefully.

i know you need cap and battery.. a cap is a device that charges up (calculated in farads or micro/pico/nano farads for small caps) and then discharges when needed... you wire it in parrallel with your battery (positive to positive, negative to negative) and allows your battery to put out higher CCA (cold cranking amps) basically means that under short/snap periods of high current drain (amplifier while heavy bass beat) the voltage won't drop...

has anyone noticed the transmission shifts much smoother with the additional ground cables?

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Originally Posted by MiSloVic

has anyone noticed the transmission shifts much smoother with the additional ground cables?

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I have a manual, and no, it is not smoother. :)

For new car, its probably placebo effect

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Originally Posted by aaronng

I have a manual, and no, it is not smoother. :)

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haha.. i'm referring to auto. i wasn't expecting the grounding to have any effect, on power, but did noticed the transmission shifts smoother.

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Originally Posted by tron07

For new car, its probably placebo effect

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if youve ever seen the poor earthing connection in any new car youd know theres no way there adequate. its just basic electronics, no matter how many earthing straps (euro has two) the vehicle has connecting the engine to the chassis, it wont make any difference if theres only one pinny 4G wire screwed into 1mm steal from the battery... i proved there was a voltage increase, not to mention no drop from battery to engine, for this to happen at idle, there has to be some increase in efficiency :D

So where is the best place to ground your amps in the boot of a euro?

I got mine done at a shop and looks like they have put it somewhere behind the side rest of the back seat but I don't know how to take it off.

My 4 channel amp cuts out when there is:

1. strong bass in the song
2. sometimes when changing gears

The monoblock still powers the subs fine though so I thought if it was a poor ground it would affect both amps.

I have a 1 farad capacitor feeding both amps/

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Originally Posted by cutchorama

So where is the best place to ground your amps in the boot of a euro?

I got mine done at a shop and looks like they have put it somewhere behind the side rest of the back seat but I don't know how to take it off.

My 4 channel amp cuts out when there is:

1. strong bass in the song
2. sometimes when changing gears

The monoblock still powers the subs fine though so I thought if it was a poor ground it would affect both amps.

I have a 1 farad capacitor feeding both amps/

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What's the gauge of your power wire? The best ground is the shortest ground to the chassis, behind the seat.

4g power 4g earth.

I just don't know how to take off the side cushion of the rear seat.

Do you have any pics of where to ground it?

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Originally Posted by cutchorama

4g power 4g earth.

I just don't know how to take off the side cushion of the rear seat.

Do you have any pics of where to ground it?

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Lift up the front of the bottom part of the rear seats, there are 2 clips/hooks in the bottom-front of each seat. Then tilt the front up and rear so you get more space at the rear. Then put your finger in the gap below the side bolster and feel for that 10mm bolt. Remove the bolt with a 1/4" drive ratchet and extension, then lift the bolster up and pull out towards the front. Putting it back is the reverse and it is much more difficult to get that 10mm bolt back in. :) Also, when you push down on the bottom seat, make sure the hook lines up with the clip before pressing down.

Cheers, I'll give it a go now

also maybe add another (or bigger) earthing cable from battery to the chassis... if your now grounding two amps (each one with 4G wire) dont forget your battery still has the single 4G connection to the chassis... to keep it all even id either upgrade to a single 2G (or even 0G) earth from battery to chassis, or add atleast another 4G...

This is how it is earthed atm, is this the best way? If not where should I ground it?

http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/6474/randach207yz4.jpg

These are the only other bolts I can find near the side cushion. 1 holds the seat belt, the other holds the side cushion in place.

*EDIT* I only have 1 4g earth running from my capacitor. I have 2 8g earth wires from each amp running to the cap.

yeah thats fine being earther there... but i would still upgrade at the other end....
its like making a three lane highway from canberra to sydney... then just before you get to sydney, making it only 1 lane for the last 50kms.... yes all the cars will still get through, but no where near as many as you could if it continued as three lanes...
if you get what im saying? :confused:

I cant believe what BS this is and that reasonably intelligent people here like you guys fall for it. I mean .2 ov a volt is going to make zero impact on the car no matter what you want to believe. Its a placebo FFS.

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Originally Posted by Suntzu

I cant believe what BS this is and that reasonably intelligent people here like you guys fall for it. I mean .2 ov a volt is going to make zero impact on the car no matter what you want to believe. Its a placebo FFS.

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0.2v increase at 600-700rpm by just adding one 2G cable is a massive increase electrically... it might not sound like much, but when everything in the euro uses power to run, it can make a very big difference... and i only measured voltage, im sure that the alternater would now be running alot better aswell, meaning it can take a higher current draw...

but im not talking about voltage increase now russ, im talking about the fact he's trying to pull up to 280amps off a earthing cable that can only deliver 120amps max! this has nothing to do with engine gains, no matter how thick a cable you have going from your amps earth to ground... it doesnt mean jack sh*t if you still only have stock cable from battery to chassis....

stock car uses 4G cable to run all electrical systems...

if you then add another two 4G cables to run two high power amplifiers... youre still only pulling all that power thru the one earth cable..

it needs to be upgraded...