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Is there any other type/brand of MTF that can be put safely in the Euro?Why i ask is because when i had a Subaru Liberty i put Redline lightweight shockproof MTF and the improvement it made in reducing notchiness in gear changes was amazing.Not that the Euro suffers from this.Please give me your opinions.
The gearshift on the Euro is about as good as it gets. Stick with Honda MTF
Stick with Honda MTF. The lightest Redline MTF is still thicker than Honda's.
what's honda's MTF spec?
I think it's equivalent to 10w-30 engine oil. But the test for rating transmission fluid viscosity is not the same as the test for engine oil viscosity. When tested using the method for transmission fluid, the rating should be different.Quote:
Originally Posted by euro77
Honda MTF Oil Spec is 75W/80 from memory....
Just stick with Honda's MTF, it's good stuff...
Is MTF changed every 20 or 40000 kms?
By the service schedule, 120,000km or 72 months. I would change mine every 1.5 years (20,000km)Quote:
Originally Posted by take_no_prisoners
A/T = 60,000kmQuote:
Originally Posted by take_no_prisoners
M/T = 120,000km
Holy moly! Anybody know a rough estimate if I wanted a change at my next service.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
I think it's about $120-150. I DIY mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by take_no_prisoners
I want to do mine, my cars done 37 000km and its two years old. Its feels a little sluggish on the 1-2 gate. Might get honda to flush it at the 40 000km. Looked at doing it myself but seemed a little hard.
If you have jackstands and a jack, it's easy. It's similar to changing engine oil, except that you don't have to deal with removing the filter and messy drips (just use a piece of cardboard to deflect the MTF stream coming out).Quote:
Originally Posted by Suntzu
thanks, im gonna do mine myself now :DQuote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
and suntzu, ill help ya do yours, i got hydrollic jack and pin stands :thumbsup:
Sweet. That would be awesome.
Actually I do have a hydraulic jack. I just used it to set my final ride height for my Tein SS as my Camber kits going in tommorow!
I also have jack stands, the short red ones be ok?
Im guessing I have to ring and order the MTF from the local dealer or do they normally have stock if you rock up to buy it?
Just get MTF from the dealer or a Honda wrecker (they usually carry Honda fluids as well). And yes, they have stock (just call to be sure and to find out the price. Should be under $20 a litre).Quote:
Originally Posted by Suntzu
Just take off 2 clips and 1 bolt of the undertray to make an opening for the fluid to drain down. Use a piece of cardboard to deflect the stream of old MTF so it doesn't flow onto your left lower suspension subframe.
The filler bolt just needs a 17 or 19mm socket (I can't remember), while the drain bolt needs a 3/8" square drive ratchet. Connect the ratchet directly to the drain bolt and take it off. Also, loosen the filler bolt first. Then only loosen the drain bolt. Check the crush washers on both bolts. If it is not deformed, you can reuse it. If it is squished (even a little bit), then replace it. You can get new ones from the dealer (expensive) or from Repco. You need a 14mm washer for the drain bolt and 20mm for the filler bolt. The 14mm washer is also the same size as the one for the oil drain bolt.
Once fully drained, put on the drain bolt and then lower the car using the jack to get it level. Then use a funnel connected to a hose to the filler hole and fill the transmission with MTF until it spills back out. Put the bolt back on and put the car back onto the jackstands. Go underneath again and put the undertray clips and bolt back on.
Remember rule #1, anytime part of your body is under the car, you must have the car supported by jackstands. A hydraulic jack alone is not good enough.
Aaronng you are the man... cheers once again :D i would give you more rep points, but it says i have to share it around more before giving u some more lol :D
Nah, it's ok. I don't do it for the rep. I just don't want to see Ozhonda members squished underneath cars due to failed jacks or someone crying because they drained the transmission but can't get the filler bolt open. :)
Oh yeah, if you find that you can't get the drain bolt open because your 3/8" ratchet is too short to provide leverage, a rubber mallet can do wonders. A metal hammer would damage your ratchet, so that wouldn't be advisable. Alternatively, you can spend $7 at Supercheapauto for a 3/8" made in china socket set and just hammer at that since it is considered disposable (I used this and the ratchet didn't break).
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
That cardboard deflector was my trademark!!!:wave:
Here are some quick steps for tranny fluid changeover...
After jacking the car and securing the car on jack stands..
1. Remove underbody cover on the left side of the car (Where the drain bolt is) - 10mm and 2 quick release bolts.. Put a piece of cardboard over the chassis to flow the oil into the oil pan and stop yourself from cleaning up a messy and oily mess later.... You can sit the oil pan on top of the underbody, lazy people like me can't be bothered removing the whole underbody...
2. Unscrew drain bolt of the tranny and filler bolt. Turn the steering wheel to the left as well
3. Lower the car off the jackstands (To ensure a proper drain while the car is flat on the ground)
4. After all is drained, lift the car and pop the drain plug back.
5. Lower the car again, now you have two ways of filling up the tranny fluid, from the filler hole or from the top of the tranny, I personally use the top of the tranny and it's easier as well with my ghetto tranny hose LOL!
6. The tranny takes 1.9 Litres, but I normally pop the 2 Litres in as there are no issues with it... BUT you have to watch the filler hole, if tranny oil starts to flow out, that means it's reached it's level, you stop filling it.
7. Now, close the filler hole via the wheel arch, finish by securing your underbody back into the car again and you are freeee to drive off!
NOTE: IF you DO NOT KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING, PLEASE DO NOT DO IT...
I am merely writing how I normally do mine and I am not responsible for anything that might arise or happen if you choose to follow my steps :)
Haha, I copied the deflector from the Autospeed article on Ultratune.
I prefer to use the filler hole since it is already open. The top hole is ok for MTF but can cause airlocks with more viscous MTF like Redline.
Thread Revieve :D
Changed my MTF, Oil, and oil filter today, saved alot of money compared to what honda charge to do it!
Here's a price list for those of you who want to know:
Honda 06 MTF $13.95/L (purchase 3L - $41.85)
Honda Oil Filter $14.95
Mobil 1 SuperSyn 0W40 Oil 5L - $87
Was pretty easy to do, MTF filler nut was a bitch to get off! i had to remove battery and half of my CAI... but that made it easy as piss to fill back up :)
Oil Filter on Euro is pretty easy to get to, compared to some other cars i've worked on.
All in all took me just under 2hours, that wasnt racing either. Thanks for everyone who put advice in this thread. oh and aaronng yes it is 17mm filler nut, and same for oil drain nut...
you have to show me now. That being said Honda are looking at my car in a few weeks cause the shift is getting notchy and has a funny whine at 35 000km!
haha how did i know youd be the first to reply :p lol
yeah ill show ya on friday... is your car still under warranty?
dont know whether its placebo effect, but 1st gear now seems easier to get into... used to be a bit of a pain when moving...
Nah, it's not a placebo effect. :) The new MTF 06 is good.Quote:
Originally Posted by EUR003act
YAY! lol yeah i think my 3year/80,000km old trans fluid had finished its life... Glad i changed it now instead of waiting for 120,000km or another 3years!Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
I change mine every 1.5 years.Quote:
Originally Posted by EUR003act
im gonna start doing the same... its not expensive, and it gives me something to do on my days off :D
I change mine every 15000kms...
MTF 06 really does makes a difference.. Try it... Nothing to do with the Butt-tester LOL!
I assume my May 06 plated Euro would have the good 06 MTF that you're all talking about as my gearshift is quite smooth.
What do you guys rekon about introducing tuflon ect additives into the manual tranny?
Would it make any difference?
I have the Nulon G70 manual gearbox diff treatment but I havent put it in. Im waiting for the dealer to look at my box under warranty due whine and stiff shift.I'll also put in new MTF and run it for a while.
See what happens. I may never add it. I cant see it doing any harm regardless of what the paranoid ones say. i used it in my Nissan and it was brilliant.
No, no and no. DO NOT use additives in MTF. When you pour out Honda MTF and compare it to other brands of MTF, you'll see the difference (Honda's is as thin as engine oil) and there is a reason for that because of the use of brass synchros.Quote:
Originally Posted by tknova
Honda's MTF used to lag behind Redline's in terms of shift smoothness, but the new MTF06 lets Honda catch up a bit. BTW, Redline's thinnest MTF is still 1 level thicker than Honda's MTF.
The Redline MTF is good.:thumbsup:Pity they don't have MTF that is compatible with the Euro.
sorry for the epic revive.
im trying to do my mtf change - whereabouts exactly can i find the filler plug?
going through the passengers side wheelarch, i think i've found the drain plug (its the one with the square drive bolt?) which is on the side of the tranny facing the wheel arch.
where's the filler plug with respect to the drain plug? theres like 20 bolts on the damn thing. if theres any pics or diagrams please! that'd be helpful.
thanks
It's a big-ish bolt above the drain bolt.I can't remember exactly, but I think it was a 17mm normal hex bolt.Quote:
Originally Posted by euromandeluxe
yeah, you're right. i found it before - a big goldish one.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
thanks!