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guys i got 360 kms on a full tank filled up wen the light came on, thrashing once or twice in the whole time...
is my car crazy?
mm.. and how big is the tank? cost me 52 bucks from a $1.22/ltr i think premium aswell.. BP ultimate. anyone got any suggestions to get better ks?
cheers
spark plugs?
but everythings practically new? lol
service.
you do realise that once the light comes on you still have like 40km left in the tank...
I get about 400km out of a tank in my R and that was all city driving.
Usually get about 550kms out of mine...
Lift off on the right foot a bit
man ur lucky i only get 260 max
260 whatttttt!.. thats crazy
anyways the car just got serviced cos i just bought it not too long ago.. so mm.. how much do u guys normally get having everything all stock?
I say ur jst a bit throttle happy.
You dont need to be "thrashing" it per say to be using an excessively high amount of fuel.
catch is, in that time i only took it hard twice? why is everyone assuming i took it hard the whole time?
anyways so i floored it twice and my fuel is like that? is that normal?
You guys should really figure out your l/100km ratio. So much more accurate than how much you get out of a tank. People fill up at different times, to hard to compare.
My VTiR gets 10L/100km average. 6.5L/100km if I spend some time on a freeway.
my fuel light came on today at 490kms, so theres something going on on your car - eventhough mine is a dc5 lux, not an S, fuel tank size should be the same. Few squirts as well. maybe you're a leadfoot
i think the fuel tank is probably 50L or so. I filled up 43L tonite
trueee damn aye.. monk3y is urs a manual? is it cos i dont use 6th much? only on highways? leadfoot whats THAT haha
Tank is 50 litres, fuel warning kicks in when it reaches the 10 litre mark.
I get anywhere from 490-530km before the warning light kicks in (city/highway driving).
The brochure is right on the mark, 9-10L consumption per 100km.
Maybe you aren't optimal in your gear usage, K20's work best for normal driving around 3k rpm.
damn 490-530?/
I get 430 If i'm lucky, no vtec, just driving normaly, shifting at 3-3.5k
My friend with a DC2r gets similar fuel consumption
I get about 350kms (dc5 base) before the red light... but i guess i am a bit hard on the pedal (never hit vtec though).
My 96 GSi auto was a fuel guzzler though, i got about 300kms per tank!!! Changed air/fuel mixture and got a little more.
yep mine is a manual.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.k20z1
i use 5th gear alot to save petrol - usually i cruise in 5th from about 80km/h (no 6th in a lux)
plus i usally upshift at about 2200rpm, only upshift later when i really need to
i've found that my fuel light comes on, and after about 10min it sometimes goes off - still enough warning for me to fill up
Go get it checked out. Your car still under warranty?Quote:
Originally Posted by m0nk3y
If you never get onto your lumpy cam, then you're not heavy on the throttle. :PQuote:
Originally Posted by twofruitz
yeh it is still under warrenty and i've got my service coming up in the next month or so, so i'll get it checkedQuote:
Originally Posted by Shraka
thanks for reminding me
was that $1.22 for standard unleaded price or for the BP Ultimate price? assuming Ultimate price (though it sounds like standard 91ron price...) means you got 11.84L per 100km. which isn't outragous if you shift at highish rpm (4k or higher), use heavy throttle on the way up to 4k, and cruise around in 5th gear (on highways?).Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.k20z1
if 1.22 was for 91ron, then 98 would have been 1.32. which means 10.9L per 100km. ($52 @ 1.32 = 39.4L. 39.4/3.6 = 10.9L per 100km)
i would try to change your driving style for a week or two (lightish throttle, shifts at 3k or so, cruise in 6th gear for any speed higher than 60km) and see how your fuel consumption goes.
Possibly a faulty O2 sensor which can cause high fuel usage when cruising.
Probably best to take note of how much fuel you have to put in and how many kms you get for the next few tanks and if it stays up around the 11L-12L/100kms then get it checked out.
i tryed a few kinds of petrol and i find shell v-power gives me an extra 50ks or so, and abit more response compared to bp premium.
im abit heavy footed and i still get around 450 out of a full tank
try restarting your computer.. easy way.. just pull out the ground and + for 10 minutes then let it idle for 10 minutes.. see how that goes.. and it really depends how hard you drive... i get about 400kms vtecing quite abit
heard resetting the ecu give ya great economy , i use to get 400km outa a full tank NA, now its 500km boosted
Got extra 100km just by reseting the ECU?
i get around 450km-490km per tank...
that's from full (the petrol pump clicks twice when filling up) to the first sign of my fuel light coming on.
try shifting below 3500rpm in every gear, and i don't mean rush to 3500rpm then shift, just slowly.
What tyre pressure do you run? Low pressure = poor economyQuote:
Originally Posted by Dr.k20z1
I can easily get 500km or more if I really try, but I don't.
just take the fuse for ECU in the fuse box in engine bay about 30 sec will do bro.....Quote:
Originally Posted by XP02ED
I use mugen N1 ecu still give me good 400+km per tank....
yeh true, but the stupid fuse box doesnt tell you which one it is.. so easier method just take of the terminals hahah! anywaiz! pics of skirts maen!
Check your tyre pressure (put 33psi or so) and then fill up to full and try again.
reason u only get below 400 is uv been using VTEC at times, everytime u use vtec it consumes a lot of petrol, so if u want to get more than 400kms barely use VTEC (VROOO PRAHHHH), happened to me b4 so i stop using VTEC prolli every 2 weeks just to warm it up,
Not true. At least from my observations. Switching over to the lumpy cam in My DC2 doesn't really use that any more fuel. Obviously, you use more fuel with revs, but the VTEC cam switch point doesn't seem to be a magic point where it starts chewing more fuel to me. At 7000 it seems to chew about as much fuel as driving at 3500rpm * 2. The fuel maps are pretty close to stoic.Quote:
Originally Posted by typerinside
You can't run close to 14.7, not at full throttle or heavy load. Probably about 13:1 for a tuned NA, compared to a stock ECU at 10.5-11.5:1.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shraka
I mean compared to something like a Toyota Turbo, which when it gets on boost dumps half your petrol tank out the exhaust.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
I've never had to clean deposits off the bumper, and people traveling behind me have actually commented that there is no visible exhaust at WOT.
I really don't think that VTEC, at least in a DC2 VTiR, really changes the A/F ratio much if at all. And you can tell by the power curve that it's not sucking in a heap more air. It's much more subtle than that.
I almost got 500kms on my first tank before the red light came. Thats with city driving. On refill it was about 43 litres from memory. On the second tank now and have done just under 300km and gauge is still just over half way....and I dont grandpa it either.
In reality, you should get over 400kms easy with 50% VTEC.
My Light Goes on at about 400 but i can get 70k more out of it before i get scared HEHE
You can get more if the missus dont mind pushing or you like the 2 hour wait for the NRMA.Quote:
Originally Posted by EL_DC5
Or you could just carry a can with some petrol in the boot just in case.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nepolian
But don't do this, it's bad for an EFI car.
Who does that, its too practical. I have a way out suggestion.......PUT PETROL IN YOUR CAR!!!!!
are u carrying like a dead body in ur boot?
weight= more petrol consumption
HHAHAHAHAH nice comments guys..
where do i get 98RON petrol then? so BP ultimate isnt the go?
i do use 5th and 6th alot and always change b4 4000revs so mmm..
but the ecu thing.. i wudnt have a clue haha dont wanna screw up the car LOL so ill just try the different fuel as soon as som1 tells me where to get 98RON so yeah...
as goes for tire pressure ill check that today hehe early start for me.. 4:21AM! FTW haha
err BP Ultimate IS 98RON.....
try some optimax from shell or caltex vortex98
i'm sure petrol stations near you have them
All else fails disconnect the main battery terminal:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Dr.k20z1
I find BP Ultimate is the best petrol anyway, both in economy tests and observation.
I don't think switching between 98 ron petrols will give you a massive increase in economy. You're dealing with about 10% improvement from 91 RON to 98 RON for crying out loud! I don't imagine you'd get more than a 2% increase between 98 RON petrols.
My first step would be to figure out your L/100km! Here's how:
1. Get a notepad and pen and put it in your car.
2. Fill your tank up, and re-set your trip computer / meter.
3. Drive until you feel like filling up. This doesn't have to until the tank is empty.
4. Fill up your tank, and write down how many liters it took
5. Write down how many km/s you've done off your trip computer, then re-set it.
6. Do some simple math. Divide the km/s by 100 to get your 100km/s traveled, then divide your liters by your 100km/s traveled and you have your ltrs/100km. I used the calculator on my phone so I didn't have to sit there figuring it out in my head at the servo.
Repeat steps 3-6 a few times to get a feel for your car. Perhaps drive try driving really sedately one fill up, then drive harder another and put notes next to those results. Try doing a freeway trip and see how that effects your economy.
Once you've done this you can actually compare your numbers.
i was told that.. when changing from one petrol to another (like BP to caltex) to do an accurate test you need to reset your ECU aswell
Quote:
Originally Posted by XP02ED
Do not reset your ECU.
Simply run the same fuel for about 3 full tanks of normal driving to get the best out of a type of fuel.
Yeah, you'll get worse fuel consumption when you reset your ECU between fuels. Just run 3 tanks of the same fuel to get the proper fuel consumption numbers before switching to the next.
I get between 400 worst fully V-tecing and 546 is the best I’ve done both before fuel light comes on!
To warm what up??! :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by typerinside
vtec doesn't engage properly when the car's not warmed up anyway.
ive realised that lately u need to warm the car up for a good 10 minutes b4 the vtec kicks in hard so yeah.. but im using 5th and 6th heaps now as soon as i hit 60kms im in 6th so yea.. and ive got 210 ks its its not even half tank yet, its actually half of half a tank so yeah im hoping to get around 500-600, i only got the car recently so yeah i didnt know much abt the gears and that and now noticed that changing b4 3000 revs is a good idea cos haha im gettin heaps of ks :D
wooooooooooo
cheers guys for the help :D
Umm... Vtec kicking in hard? It should just swap the cam or not swap the cam. There is no real middle ground. It shouldn't be hard or soft. Just there or not there.
You should be warming the car up at least until the needle is at the 'middle point' (it should be slightly below middle on a VTiR DC2) before you rev the engine. Before your engine is warm, the metal components are actually different sizes, and there isn't as much oil lubing the system. That plus 6500rpm = good way to stuff your engine.
I dont know what car you guys are driving but my car does 480 easy with normal driving, i think about 8.6L per 100KM. Very happy, and when you need a bit of balls, just extend the revs over 5000 rpm, and you are rokinn. :wave:
I don't know how you can say something is going on with his car if you are comparing it to your dc5 lux with 118kw. The S and the lux may look the same and the fuel tank may be the same size but the engines are not the same specification. The ADR fuel test I can see for the lux is 7.6 combined and the Type S is 9.4 combined. Big difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by m0nk3y
u guys are lucky,
just recently got a dc5r, mods are i/h/e+lighten flywheel+hd cltuch
fuel is shockin.
just did half a tank = 125km, this is shifting at 2500-3000rpm
tho this is on a stock ecu, aftermaket ecu is playing up atm, so waiting on a retune.
recently changed oil/oilfilter/plugs = no change
tyres are on 35psi all round (previous owner had put 225/50 on stock front ITR rims, dunno is this could be an issue?)
any ideas?
up you PSI abit and see if that helps. deflated tyres will take 10-15% off your fuel economy
Ok.. did 2 weeks of testing (1 week = 1 tank for me)
anywais i did a service..
Changed oil, filter, fuel filter, cleaning air filter.. then restarting ECU
Using BP Ultimate for both weeks.
1st week full tank till the lights came one.. i got 400kms.. driving hard.. and i mean hard.. ie vtecing every gear.. but not throughout the week..
2nd week.. full tank again... this time driving normal.. vtec occasionaly.. i hit 480kms till lights!
previously wasnt getting this much..
i'm aware that the engines have different specs, the OP was asking how big the fuel tank sizes were, and i answered that in my post. :oQuote:
Originally Posted by yfin
Refuelling is a pain in the ass. I hate refuelling. Not because of the cost or anything, it's just a downright pain in the ass especially when you have to go round looking for fuel. I mean I love BP ultimate but I gotta drive round ages to look for one. So I take anything 98.
Anyway, I reckon you're not upshifting to the highest possible gear. Big differences when I just got the car and learnt manual when all I shifted to was about 4th. These days, I'm going 5th gear on about 60kph, 6th gear if I can be stuffed to do so. Also, make sure ur on highest gear anytime over 100 eg. like on Motorway. The gf can't seem to find 6th gear and the car keeps a constant 4000 - 4500 rev.
That or ur neighbour goes to ur car at night and siphons ur tank.
not true for the K20 engines.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shraka
if you part throttle to vtec point (around 5600rpm) the vtec changeover is not as aggressive compared to if you were at full throttle.
Aggressive? I've never heard of a VTEC switchover point being described as aggressive. Unless you're just talking about the sound it makes? In which case of course at a half throttle position the amount of noise the lumpy cam will make. :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by Tofu
If you want aggressive try driving a 14psi Supra RZ. Those turbos come on pretty damned aggressively!
i use the term aggressive in a relative sense.
the acceleration of a 14psi Supra RZ isn't all that "aggressive" compared to other cars.
Compared to what? A single turbo 20psi Supra or GT-R? A 14psi RZ is fair aggressive enough for me thanks, and reminds me that the slight change in engine note and extra breath of VTEC is about finesse, not about being savage or aggressive.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tofu
i used the word "aggressive" as a relative term in that sentense comparing before and after the vtec engagement point.
using "finesse" to describe a change of note when vtec engages?? now that i don't think anyone has heard of.
there is no "finesse" required in planting your foot on the accelerator pedal
Perhaps your engine is totally different to mine, but the lumpy cam doesn't seem any more aggressive to me than the economy cam. It just lets the engine rev out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tofu
There is actually, if you're in a corner and don't want to understeer off the track. What I mean though is that VTEC switching cams feels more like finesse than aggressiveness to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tofu
the thread starter has a TypeS with a k20z1
this engine has the JDM intake cam found in the Jap spec DC5 TypeR, so there is definitely a difference between that engine (and mine) compared to an Integra VTi-R
Perhaps I'll have to take a spin in a Type S one day. Considering the DC2 Type R doesn't come on aggressively either though, I doubt any DC5 will. Never driven one though, so I could be wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tofu
whats this all to do with low fuel economy ?
Replies on topic plz.
Remember guys , fuel economy is directly proportional to your right foot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
I was just thinking that???
Proprotional to right foot and state of the engine. ie tune, faulty components etc...
got 10.2L/100km today
with ard 5 - 10 mins high reving constantly yday
i just got 599Kms out opf last tank! using Bp ultimate. i recall putting in 44 litres in my VTiR
i assume its a dc2, which is different to the dc5S everyone talking aboutQuote:
Originally Posted by 16CTEG
hahaha sik one tofu.. definately tru hehe:thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Tofu
u gotta be dreaming.. haha they wudnt make newer engines if they werent better, if they did then wats the point of making new things?Quote:
Originally Posted by Shraka
so i come to my rest saying that get in a type s and ull see whats up well or type r ;P ok :cool::cool::cool::cool::D;)
There are many types of 'better'. Considering the trend towards smoother more economical engines with lower emissions these days, I doubt a Type S engine would be more aggressive than a B18C engine. It should be softer, more gentle. Some evidence to the fact is that the DC5 Type R engine (JDM 162kw) isn't much more powerful than the DC2 Type R engine (JDM 147kw, 15kw less) even though it's way newer and displaces 200ccs more. 147/1.8*2.0=163.33, so the DC5's power per ltr is actually slightly less than the DC2 Type R engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.k20z1
The DC5 should be more economical than the DC2. The car is heavier, but as you say the engine is newer. So anyone with a Type S who drives similar to me should get the same or better economy.
I drive modified DC2 Vtir and i can get up to 500Km per tank, mixed driving, freeway and city, driving normal and few races here and there ...
I think its all got to do with the car being properly tuned, looked after, serviced every 5-7000K and also using best fuel.
I also dragged a new Type r with few mods and bet it. . So my car is not a bug.
so your saying your vtir beat a dc5R ?Quote:
Originally Posted by adis
^ or vs the FN2R?
when driving any car from 3 cylinder lawnmower to v12, as soon as you put load on it, then it will cosume more fuel.
load is basically pushing the pedal down more then required.
the trick is to get the car up to the desired speed with a moderate amount of gas, once there keep the acceleration within the rev range (example 2500 to 3500) and you should be fine.
the more you put load on it at such a low rev or high gear, the more it will drink and this fuel will go straight through the exhaust buddy.
Sure did, had it on mobile but that was a while ago, prob last summer... Would love to drag another one...up for a drag lol ?:thumbsup::wave:Quote:
Originally Posted by XP02ED
i hope you meant @ the drag strip.
This case is closed DONT post up illegal on street racing...